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How to straighten subframe/bracket

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SophR so good
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: How to straighten subframe/bracket Reply with quote

Had a crash last December and this bracket which is directly welded to the frame got twisted, it's what the headlight and clocks attach to and the brake fluid reservoir hits off the clocks as it is.

https://i.imgur.com/54msJL9.jpg

Any clue how to straighten it? We've tried hammering it which did nothing and blowtorch + adjustable spanner but as its hollow that was just pinching the sides together. Would rather not pay someone hundreds to straighten it as insurance are being spastics so I may never get the money back. [/img]
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well whad'ya know, if BCF guesses enough, the subframe eventually is twisted, go figure.
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SophR so good
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chain is fine though Laughing
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I would cut it off, fabricate a replacement and weld it back.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_Pagin wrote:
I think I would cut it off, fabricate a replacement and weld it back.


we have no welder or ability to weld (could probably have a bash at a front sprocket though Laughing )

Ideally need fix to be as cheap as possible, we've tried heating with blow torch and trying to bend it back but it does fuck all.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blow torch wont generate enough heat, you're looking at acetylene, in which case you're back to paying someone.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you fill it with sand so it doesn't crush as you try and twist it back?
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SophR so good
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe... If I can find something non flammable to block the holes with. Hmm..
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's scrap. Don't bend anything welded to the frame.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's only holding the clocks so I'd be comfortable bending it back.
You either need to crash in the exact reverse that caused it, or bend correctly.

MAPP torch with give you plenty of heat but you probably just need the right tool and technique.

Bending near the weld a little, move the tool out, bend a little more.
You'll need a longer lever, I'd probably try a small G-clamp and some wood for leverage, with a metal washer to pad out the slit.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a welder, and I'm not too far from you. However, welding stuff on to frames is something that is definitely gonna require a waiver of some description.
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SophR so good
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for the offer but I'd still have to try and fabricate something to weld on which sounds more difficult that straightening.

As I have no desire to scrap a 5 grand bike over a slightly bent non-structural part, because that's dumb as fuck, I'll try the clamp and wood suggestion next. Otherwise it's time to bat my eyelashes at a frame straightening place.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

SophR so good wrote:
Many thanks for the offer but I'd still have to try and fabricate something to weld on which sounds more difficult that straightening.

It is a slightly less daunting task when you realise that I have the kit to do so (as well as the materials, if my scraps bin is feeling bountiful this week).

Based on the photos, it's a pretty simple part, but if you can send me some more detailed pics and some measurements, I should be able to knock something together that we can weld straight on to the frame.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like better pics and ones that show what has to fit
in the bracket and how it does so, but I'll make some guesses
for the hell of it

I'm guessing the red line shows something like the original path of the bracket?
and it's not just a simple tang with a slot but that stuff below is part of the assembly too?

If so, I wouldn't fancy putting much heat near the stem bearings and might consider cutting along the green lines and bending the top of the bracket out close to its original path ( blue lines)
then maybe tack or rivet a top plate with slot on top to tidy it

summat like that mebbe

https://imgur.com/lv5gpDv.jpg
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I'd like better pics and ones that show what has to fit
in the bracket and how it does so, but I'll make some guesses
for the hell of it

I'm guessing the red line shows something like the original path of the bracket?
and it's not just a simple tang with a slot but that stuff below is part of the assembly too?

If so, I wouldn't fancy putting much heat near the stem bearings and might consider cutting along the green lines and bending the top of the bracket out close to its original path ( blue lines)
then maybe tack or rivet a top plate with slot on top to tidy it

summat like that mebbe

https://imgur.com/lv5gpDv.jpg


I would have guessed the other direction but bolting on bit of steel to put a hole where it should be seems a good bet. Maybe drill through from the side to bolt a 90 degree bit on then drill the top to put he hole in the fight place. You may have to put a cut out in the top to make room for the bolt head but looks botchable
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SophR so good
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 11:19 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep it's the other direction.

Yamaha awful schematics of what is one unit:

https://i.imgur.com/sXGITqE.png

Unfortunately can't find the thing that attaches in their parts catalogue...

But it hooks into that slot with the right side flush against it, and a bit round the boss at the end too like so:

https://i.imgur.com/1Hekiwh.jpg

So not sure if bolting something on would help because of the bit round the boss?

I'm very unmechanically minded though.

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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh I see, better pics helped
No idea what bike tho
Now I'm thinking I might try a cut, bash, tack job on it
(what the hell, its not my bike right?)

I'd mebbe run a 1mm cutting disc down the orange line,
bash it straight(er) then tack up the wounds

https://imgur.com/Sux6FDz.jpg[/img]
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 25 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

that could possibly work tbh, if it's only got the 1 side to bend then reweld the cut. Clevers
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SophR so good
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 25 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That... Could work? I'm still scared of killing the bike but that seems less do or die than cutting it off completely. And could always cut off completely if it gets fucked.

It's an R3 by the way, figured it's not a useful detail as most folk haven't seen one so won't know what this bracket is like. No clue if it's the same on the r125/r6 either.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 25 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right I dont know the bike but knowing the name and googling for pics helps get context.

I found a pic that shows where and what it does and if it were mine, I'd rather try the cut n shut
technique than cut into/weld up the head stock tube.
I've used it before to modify tube work that was a bit off line.
As it isnt massively load bearing or likely to affect frame strength or geometry
I wouldn't sweat it much

g'wan! get in there with an INOX blade, tap it in into shape then get it tacked up.

pitcher

https://imgur.com/ypkoNtq.jpg
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