Timing belt change

[WD Forte]

Is it a V40?
If so it looks a typical belt job

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZOjR6Ke_NQ
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bikers smell of wee

[M.C]

[RhynoCZ]

[Monkeywrenche...]

[quote="RhynoCZ"]

[RhynoCZ]

Are you sure about that, Monkey?

I'm quite confused about what engine OP wants to fix, but here's the C30:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volvo-C30/63-ENGINE-Replacing_Engine_Belts_and_Tensioners/63-ENGINE-Replacing_Engine_Belts_and_Tensioners.htm

2.0 Duratec engine: https://youtu.be/AaSBaKQaYZs?t=1m1s (quite simliar to what I could see when working on the Vectra B)

EDIT: You do not need to replace the tensioner/s, but it is advisable (I mean the C30 manual).
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[angryjonny]

[Monkeywrenche...]

[RhynoCZ]

[M.C]

AFAIK the 1.6 engine's the Ford Duratec unit, the 1.8/2.0L are Mazda engines, and the 2.4L/T5 Volvo. I did want the 1.8 originally but this one came up and was too nice to pass on. A mate keeps ripping me about it (he drives a Micra ) and I tell him it's a racing engine (I believe they used it in Formula Ford)

[RhynoCZ]

So, the last post about this from my side.
Aux/serpentine belt fit - if it's the stretch one, just buy the tool kit of ebay (sell the tool kit right after you're done OR use the knowledge and the toolkit to do the same job on other people's cars). It's about £40, can go cheaper of course.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Monkeywrenche...]

[Hong Kong Phooey]

You can splice the old belt in two, lengthways and remove half of it, then push the new one on and cut away the old belt if you're too tight to buy the locking tools.

Personally I'd hand it over to an indy as access is right tight and you'd need to support the engine. Is not a quick job, and it's not something to gamble with.

You should also make your own markings in case you skip a tooth.
Obligatory Scotty link showing you how much hassle is likely to entail on a transverse engine.

Some of them bolts are likely to be tight as fook.
Even just getting the timing covers off is a pain in the arse.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VAuqOAp72m0
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[stevo as b4]

Is it even possible to have an engine where the crank timing belt pulley is not keyed to the shaft? I only ask as I have never seen one myself before?

Also how much more of a pain in the arse is it to do a belt swap on an engine where the cam pulleys are not keyed to the cams? I have only seen one engine where this was adopted and it was a quad cam V6 with 3belts to drive the cams, as there were link belts on the inlet/exhaust cams.

It was said that with this set up you don't need to install vernier pulleys if fitting and timing in performance cams, simply as once you have got the valve timing where you want it, you can adjust the position of the pulley relative to the cam and tighten up the bolt.

Sounds a headache to me, and not something I'd like to try.

Oh and I would say that the biggest pain on any fwd drive car where theres a cam belt side engine mount that needs to come off to change the Cambelt is getting the mount itself off and then supporting the engine.

Longitudinal engines don't have this problem.

[Robby]

Stevo, I'm not sure what you're getting at. The pulley being keyed shouldn't make a difference, it would be a rare job to have to remove the pulley to do a cam belt.

The pain in the arse bit on a lot of new engines is the variable valve timing, where the pulley can still wiggle a bit when the camshaft is locked. This means you need to lock the camshaft(s) and then lock the VVTI bit.

Luckily chains are back in fashion, and some engines have ultra long life belts - like the little 1L ecotec engine from Ford, where the belt appears to run inside the engine and have a 100k+ mile life. By the time its due a belt, the assumption is that is also needs a turbo (also pretty much part of the crankcase) and a general engine overhaul, so you pull out the engine and drop in a rebuilt one.

[M.C]

[Monkeywrenche...]

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[Dr. DaveJPS]

[M.C]

[-]

[M.C]

Not found anecdotal evidence of old (in terms of age) belts failing, only those beyond mileage limits. I appreciate lower mileage cars are rarer, but it seems to be mainly people saying I replace at x time for peace of mind.

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[M.C]

Depends what nick they were in If they had cracks etc. then no. I read start/stop traffic puts more pressure on the belt(s), so that's another factor as I believe the car has lived in the city all its life.

[dodsi]

So, we have now reached the point that this damn timing belt has still not been changed and no decision has been made to change the damn thing.

By now; in the same situation, I would have already have booked 'our'*(*VW Financial Services') car in, dropped it off, had use of a courtesy car and collected the newly serviced car back from the dealer. At no additional cost to myself - let alone anywhere in this process mithering about should I or shouldn't I change a belt.

As you have said, you have plenty of assets and savings so perhaps break into the M.C. Millions and get the job sorted.

[M.C]

With the age of the vehicles you lease do they ever reach an expensive service, beyond an oil change? Do you remember how much I was up over your leasing costs? I remember it being thousands so a few hundred for a timing belt change won't break the bank, I'm just sifting through the conflicting info' trying to make an informed decision...

...which I have already. If I keep the car long term (probably won't) I'll change it, if I sell it I won't. Obviously you're still not over this so I look forward to your next 20 butthurt posts on the subject.