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Kawasaki AR50 Crankshaft Nut

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pudder
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Kawasaki AR50 Crankshaft Nut Reply with quote

I've been working on stripping my little Kawasaki AR50 that I used to ride at 16, with the aim of renewing engine crankcase seals.

Have followed Mr Haynes instructions, but have now got a point where I'm a bit stumped because I can't remove the crankshaft nut (circled). The bits of wood under my extension bar are dented and sound like they are about to snap in two.

The diagram in the Haynes manual is a bit different with circlip / pinion damper rather than just a nut.

Could it be a LH thread?
I don't have an impact gun, but this was suggested by a colleague..
Any further suggestions on what do?

https://imgur.com/vWdc0Hv.jpg
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1993 Kawasaki AR50 (In bits) - 1984 Suzuki GP125 (Sold, but still ridden) - 1954 Matchless G3L (Being restored) - 2007 Suzuki Bandit 650
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DRZ4Hunned
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need an impact gun, they're hard enough to get off with the engine in the bike...
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pudder
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

DRZ4Hunned wrote:
You need an impact gun, they're hard enough to get off with the engine in the bike...


Would something like this be suitable?
I already have the battery pack for that one..

And the black impact sockets... Whats the difference vs normal sockets? Tougher I'd guess?
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1993 Kawasaki AR50 (In bits) - 1984 Suzuki GP125 (Sold, but still ridden) - 1954 Matchless G3L (Being restored) - 2007 Suzuki Bandit 650
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that is an impact gun.
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DRZ4Hunned
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pudder wrote:
Would something like this be suitable?
I already have the battery pack for that one..


Yeah that'd be fine, although personally I'd get a cheapo one for about 30 quid...
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pudder wrote:

And the black impact sockets... Whats the difference vs normal sockets? Tougher I'd guess?


Impact sockets are thicker and softer. Normal sockets can shatter like an ice cube with a windy gun.
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DRZ4Hunned
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wrap normal sockets in duct tape so they won't take my eye out if they explode.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 for a pov-spec impact gun, mains if you can get one cheaper. Spending more just because you've got the batteries for it is a peculiar choice.

It'll have that nut off in half a second versus hours of struggling and straining. It'll be the best and worst value tool you'll ever buy. Wink
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 22 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I recently used to get the front sprocket off a Z1000SX. After heaving on a 2ft breaker bar with a 6ft piece of scaffold to absolutely no avail.....came right off with this. Much happy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0039BQRUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hefty piece of kit, feels more like a decent beefy SDS or a demo drill. And it spits out more torque than your cordless affair.
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pudder
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 23 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
+1 for a pov-spec impact gun, mains if you can get one cheaper. Spending more just because you've got the batteries for it is a peculiar choice.


Different strokes for different folks I guess. I prefer convenience of cordless, and am willing to pay a premium for that.
While I'm not pretending that Ryobi are a premium brand, I'd prefer my chances of getting a tool which lasts decades from them than with a chinky no-name £40 job.

Then if its the choice between £70 Hitachi cordless + £30 Hitachi battery, vs £85 Ryobi bare. Kinda makes it a peculiar choice not to by the Ryobi, no?

Even if the Hitachi was cheaper including the battery, there is the convenience of having only type of battery / charger.
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