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Crashed ER-5, forks are bent massively

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:54 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

mkjackary wrote:
So going to buy a set of used, but fully put together forks, if I do that, and assuming yoke and everything else is fine, is it just a case of swapping it over, or will the fork oil need changing or something?


Of course change the oil. Why would you not?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
mkjackary wrote:
So going to buy a set of used, but fully put together forks, if I do that, and assuming yoke and everything else is fine, is it just a case of swapping it over, or will the fork oil need changing or something?


Of course change the oil. Why would you not?


+1 fresh oil makes the world of difference and with the folks already off it takes only 10 minutes!

Plus you can't be sure that they have the right amount/right weight/any oil in them!
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M.C
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Pete. wrote:


Of course change the oil. Why would you not?


+1 fresh oil makes the world of difference and with the folks already off it takes only 10 minutes!

Sure if you can get the damper bolts off Whistle
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to... Undo the tops.
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Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought you needed to if you want to replace the seals?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're just talking about the oil. Absolutely do it if the forks are already loose. I'm kicking myself for not doing it when I replace the fork gaiters on the Nazi Tractor last year.

Enfields of course have drain holes at the bottom of the forks. Whistle
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M.C
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm ok, I thought you replaced the seals with the fork oil.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
Hmm ok, I thought you replaced the seals with the fork oil.


Why? Do you replace all engine gaskets and seals when you change engine oil?
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Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit yeah, thought I would have to fully disassemble to change oil, but make a rudementary dip stick and change the oil from the top.
Er5 forks don't have a top bolt, the top is just a plastic cap. When you disassemble them you don't touch the top, you would go from the bottom. So I am not sure if you can just change the oil easily
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

Enfields of course have drain holes at the bottom of the forks. Whistle


By design?
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M.C
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
M.C wrote:
Hmm ok, I thought you replaced the seals with the fork oil.


Why? Do you replace all engine gaskets and seals when you change engine oil?

You aren't changing fork oil every year though, I don't even think there are specified intervals.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
chris-red wrote:


Why? Do you replace all engine gaskets and seals when you change engine oil?

You aren't changing fork oil every year though, I don't even think there are specified intervals.


I do, there or there abouts. It does make a difference to the handling. What does that have to do with changing the seals anyway ?
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Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nexus Icon wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Enfields of course have drain holes at the bottom of the forks.Whistle

By design?

More through evolution, I expect.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just spoke to pretty much all the people who are selling er5 forks on ebay and they all say the seals have gone, one said it is only a "ten minute job replacing the seals" though so I shouldn't worry.

so, bit forked now anyway, if I buy a set of forks that is leaking then that is 90 quid for the forks, and another bunch of money to change them.

bugger
Any ideas as to what to do now?
I could buy from a place close to me, check them out, if they arent leaking much then I could wing it. Or I could hang about for a decent looking set of non leaking forks. Or just suck it up, and accept I am going to have to change them/pay someone to change them for me.

EDIT:
Just called around, and it is about 40-50+vat+parts So around 48-60+25ish =85 quid to replace seals and oil, and then 90 for the forks and a tenner for the axle that is ~£180 if I get someone else to do it, or 125 minimum If I do it myself.
That is assuming I have nothing else I need to replace.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

mkjackary wrote:
Just spoke to pretty much all the people who are selling er5 forks on ebay and they all say the seals have gone, one said it is only a "ten minute job replacing the seals" though so I shouldn't worry.

so, bit forked now anyway, if I buy a set of forks that is leaking then that is 90 quid for the forks, and another bunch of money to change them.

bugger
Any ideas as to what to do now?
I could buy from a place close to me, check them out, if they arent leaking much then I could wing it. Or I could hang about for a decent looking set of non leaking forks. Or just suck it up, and accept I am going to have to change them/pay someone to change them for me.

EDIT:
Just called around, and it is about 40-50+vat+parts So around 48-60+25ish =85 quid to replace seals and oil, and then 90 for the forks and a tenner for the axle that is ~£180 if I get someone else to do it, or 125 minimum If I do it myself.
That is assuming I have nothing else I need to replace.


Where are you based? If you are local I'll rebuild the forks for you. I'm East London/Essex
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
M.C wrote:

You aren't changing fork oil every year though, I don't even think there are specified intervals.


I do, there or there abouts. It does make a difference to the handling. What does that have to do with changing the seals anyway ?

I call BS on that, show me your receipts. Most people change them when you know, they start leaking.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
chris-red wrote:


I do, there or there abouts. It does make a difference to the handling. What does that have to do with changing the seals anyway ?

I call BS on that, show me your receipts. Most people change them when you know, they start leaking.


Receipts

I don't give a shit if you don't believe me, You thought you had to change perfectly good seal when you change the oil. Your opinion is worthless on the matter.

If you'd like to educate yourself ring up ANY place that does suspension tuning and ask them how often you should change your fork oil.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

On cartridge forks you should change the oil annually. Granted on shitbox piston rod forks it's not so critical but still good practice every few years. No disrespect but MC doesn't seem the sort of rider who gets picky over the way a bike handles on the limit.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I don't give a shit if you don't believe me, You thought you had to change perfectly good seal when you change the oil. Your opinion is worthless on the matter.

If you'd like to educate yourself ring up ANY place that does suspension tuning and ask them how often you should change your fork oil.

Right, someone who works on suspension's going to say yeah rarely. All the intervals (if they're stated at all) I can see are massive, unless you're doing bodyguard mileage no way are you going to need to change it annually. If you want to leave the seals fine, but if you're going to the remove the forks you might as well change them, unless you'd rather wait for them to start leaking and do the job again.

...and as it turns out the OP has to change them anyway Rolling Eyes
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
chris-red wrote:
I don't give a shit if you don't believe me, You thought you had to change perfectly good seal when you change the oil. Your opinion is worthless on the matter.

If you'd like to educate yourself ring up ANY place that does suspension tuning and ask them how often you should change your fork oil.

Right, someone who works on suspension's going to say yeah rarely. All the intervals (if they're stated at all) I can see are massive, unless you're doing bodyguard mileage no way are you going to need to change it annually. If you want to leave the seals fine, but if you're going to the remove the forks you might as well change them, unless you'd rather wait for them to start leaking and do the job again.

...and as it turns out the OP has to change them anyway Rolling Eyes


I do 10k a year. Changing the oil in the forks costs £10 in oil and takes maybe 45 mins, removing forks is easy it's 16 bolts (on my TDM). Changing the the seals as well will cost ~£30 and take about 1.5-2 hours, it is also a much greater pain in the arse, it's far more fiddly lots more to go wrong oil always ends up everywhere. Seals go when they go, I've had some last years I've had others last months changing them for the sake of doing it is stupid IMO.

Are there any other seals on the bike you change just for the sake of it?

If you haven't changed your oil for ages try it, a bet the front end feels noticeably better for it.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is boring and derailing the thread now. You're ignoring the OP has said every set of forks he's found needs new seals. My last bike didn't specify an interval, the current one says 30k. Would I leave the seals at 30k (expecting to reach 60k)? No, having had them go at around that mileage. You can change stuff as often as you want, people on here do oil changes at 1.5k. You lot must make a lot of trips to the tip.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Based in maldon/colchester way in essex mate. Really generous offer but I wouldn't want you to do that, I will either do it, ask a garage to do it, or more likely get a relative to help me or something.

So Also checked wheel bearings and they are fucked hard. So they need replacing, not too big of an issue, how do I check if there is any damage to the wheel it's self? is there a way, or do I just trust it is okay?

now to check steering bearings and yokes
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spin the wheel, damage will be apparent. Watch the rim both sides as it turns and inspect it for cracks.

Before yo spend any money check the sides of the head tube for cracked or newly-flaking paint especially around the frame welds. An impact that has bent the forks like that might have bent the headstock in a bit.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Spin the wheel, damage will be apparent. Watch the rim both sides as it turns and inspect it for cracks.

Before yo spend any money check the sides of the head tube for cracked or newly-flaking paint especially around the frame welds. An impact that has bent the forks like that might have bent the headstock in a bit.

Good shout, checked head tube and no flakey pastry or obvious damage, going to take tank off tommorow and inspect for damage to frame inside as the engine's inertia may have bent some of the frame on the inside. Worth a check at the very least.

Put the wheel on some of the axle to spin it, I can't get it on properly without forcing it as it is bent, so the combination of spinning it on a bent axle with fucked heel bearings means I am not sure if I can trust it, but it looks okay, a bit of wobble, but it is tiny, and I am pretty sure it is the bent axle/dented wheel bearings coming into the equation.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 25 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knock out the old bearings and have a look at the seats, check for cracks or the back of the seat smashed off.
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