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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Posted: 01:13 - 26 May 2017 Post subject: |
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I can't specifically say for your bike but I used to fit engine/crash bars on all my old bikes before bobbins became popular.
Don't over think it.
1) The old bolts should come out pretty easily. If you need to hit them to get things moving, leave a nut on one end done up a few threads and tap that. Once it's moving you aren't going to mushroom anything.
2) If you have tight engine bolts elsewhere then why should anything move out of line. Saying that, if you haven't got a centre stand you could use the jack to keep it upright while working rather than tilted on the side stand.
3)It should be obvious what you have to remove. I can't help any more than that as I don't know the arrangement on that bike. If they are new bars, do they not come with instructions?
Also, my Tiger had torque settings for the bolts. If you are experienced then you probably won't be too fussed and guess them but otherwise use a torque wrench.
If you need any more help...............PICTURES, PICTURES and, guess what, more PICTURES.
Did I say pictures would be useful for us who don't know the bike ____________________ Triumph Trophy Launch Edition |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 20:46 - 27 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Cheers for that. I'll be having a crack at it on Monday.
I do have a centre stand (I can't imagine doing chain cleaning/lubing without one), I am glad to hear that the engine won't sag out of the frame without the support of both mounting bolts!
The bars do come with instructions, but being a Polish company, their grasp of English isn't great. It looks simple enough, but I've done enough work on my bike to know that looking simple doesn't mean much.
Yeah, 45Nm (much lower than I expected).
____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion
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Polarbear |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion
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Posted: 18:04 - 29 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Falco wrote: | Cheers guys, I do have an impact driver (the handheld sort) but no sockets for it Looks like it's going to have to be postponed till I can get the bits and some plusgas.
What are the chances on mullering the bolt in the process? I'd hate to ruin it and still not get it out, rendering the bike unridable till its sorted.
Can't ever have an easy job on the bike, eh?! |
I don't necessarily recommend this either...
Prior to purchasing some decent impact sockets, I have successfully used non-inpact Teng wall drive sockets with my impact driver to remove bolts that likely had not been removed in 10 years.
That being said there is nothing to say your socket won't shatter/round the bolt on the first few whacks, it's a risky game IMO. ____________________ The above post is most likely nonsensical.
I ride a Bandit 600... badly. |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 23:02 - 29 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Turns out you can remove the bit adaptor on my impact driver (for the screw/torx/ect) to reveal a standard 1/4" bit
Looking through my tool kit, the 1/4" 6 sided sockets are in fact labelled as impact sockets, so I might give it a few whacks tomorrow (weather permitting).
Which brings me to my next question, which end of the bolt should I be heating? The nut end or the bolt head end? (I assume the bolt head since that is the end that I am trying to turn)
I tried putting the nut back on the thread with a bit of wood to protect the nut and gave it several good thwacks with the lump hammer. Then tried it with the big punch pin on the wood, but the wood split and mashed the edge of the nut
That bolt is well and truly stuck in there. I could feel the head of the bolt just starting to go with the breaker bar when I first tried it. If the head gets rounded, is the next step to drill it and hammer it out with a punch pin? ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Commuter_Tim |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 12:49 - 30 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Abject failure. The bolt hasn't turned at all, even with liberal application of heat and the impact driver. If fact, the impact driver appears to be dying, with cracks appearing in the heavy metal base and the plastic outer grip starting to spin on its own, then riding down over the base ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Posted: 12:50 - 30 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB |
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB World Chat Champion
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Polarbear |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 16:35 - 30 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Yeah, this was the first time I had used it in anger (so I can hardly claim to know how to use it well). In the past I tend to cut a slot in the top of the bolt or drill it out, but I'm not confident to do that this time for fear of damaging the mounting on the engine casing. Not impressed with this one though, had good luck with Draper stuff up till now, but this is disappointing (so yes Jewlio, seems I do have a shite impact driver)
Having used one, impact drivers aren't as hard to use as I imagined (even if it did fail), first times uses are always a bit nerve racking.
Thanks for the offer, it's much appreciated, however I am up on the edge of the peak district so it would be a bit of a trek!
I'd like to sort it myself if I can. partly because I am stubborn and partly because it's only a matter of time before I need one again (I am looking at the rear mounting bolt with deep suspicion at this point).
Is nut gun another name for an impact driver (the electric/air powered ones)? I'm not averse to buying one, a good tool is an investment and almost every tool I've bought has paid for itself several times over.
For a manual impact driver I thought this one looked ok? Hopefully the Teng brand carries a bit more weight than the Draper brand.
For Electric version this one caught my eye though a bit OTT. 500NM? That seems like a lot, but I have no idea what sort of amount of torque is required to break off seized bolts/nuts/etc.
Any reason to go for one or the other? ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Posted: 18:38 - 30 May 2017 Post subject: |
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That electric one will be fine. So will the manual one. I don't know how much maintenance you intend doing your self but the hand one is a must. The electric one is more of a nice to have but in this case is the tool of choice.
With the electric one you really will need proper impact sockets. Don't use ordinary ones, it will destroy them in the end. I would check those sockets with it are impact ones before using them as well. Get something like this.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86722?table=no
I use my air one most of he time having a plumbed in compressor in my garage. My electric one is a clark 12v that clips on a car battery. I bought that before I fitted the air system.
If I didn't have my old 12v one, I would go for battery powered but they are in the £300 range for a good one. I have to work on canal boats and at present I find the 12v one good enough but if that dies I will be buying a battery Makita. ____________________ Triumph Trophy Launch Edition |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 01:11 - 31 May 2017 Post subject: |
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Polarbear wrote: | That electric one will be fine. So will the manual one. I don't know how much maintenance you intend doing your self but the hand one is a must. The electric one is more of a nice to have but in this case is the tool of choice.
With the electric one you really will need proper impact sockets. Don't use ordinary ones, it will destroy them in the end. I would check those sockets with it are impact ones before using them as well. Get something like this.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86722?table=no
I use my air one most of he time having a plumbed in compressor in my garage. My electric one is a clark 12v that clips on a car battery. I bought that before I fitted the air system.
If I didn't have my old 12v one, I would go for battery powered but they are in the £300 range for a good one. I have to work on canal boats and at present I find the 12v one good enough but if that dies I will be buying a battery Makita. |
Thanks Polarbear.
I do all the maintenance on my bike (except major stuff, I doubt I would rebuild the top-end or have much of anything to do with the bottom end) so they will get used, though how often is uncertain (hopefully not too many seized bolts/screws).
I thought I'd go for the Parkside Wrench and use the price difference to get the manual one as well. The Parkside only rates 320Nm, but I can't imagine that won't be sufficient for anything I am likely to find on the bike?
I am pretty sure they are impact sockets. They are labelled as such on the little key thing (they are from the Halford's advanced set), and they are black and sort of elongated compared to the normal sockets:
https://s18.postimg.org/s5w76xrh5/IMG_20170531_242343742_HDR.jpg
Cheers for the link though, it would be nice to have a proper range of these sockets, only have 13-21mm at the moment, not even in 1mm step ups.
I don't have a garage unfortunately, some of those battery powered ones look very nice....as you say a little pricey though ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Posted: 01:52 - 31 May 2017 Post subject: |
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I have some Parkside gear as either Lidl or Aldi supply it now and again. It's not bad stuff, certainly for a personal tool kit.
Yes, those black sockets are impact sockets and your Parkside gun comes with 4 wheel nut size ones as well. Just be careful using the gun on anything smaller than 17mm. I prefer to use the hand impact driver on those.
Keep putting release oil on the bolt while you wait for the nut gun to arrive and hopefully it will free up when you operate it. ____________________ Triumph Trophy Launch Edition |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 00:29 - 02 Jun 2017 Post subject: |
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Polarbear wrote: | Ah, sorry, 17mm across flats of the head. That doesn't mean you can't use it on smaller stuff, just be a bit careful. Turn the settings down to minimum and work your way up. On the air powered nut gun it's a knob on the bottom, not sure how that Parkside one works.
These things have the power to shear a bolt or strip a thread if used wrongly. Play with it on something you don't give a fuck about first so you get the feel of what it can do if you have never used one before.
If you look at that impact socket set I posted earlier it goes down to a 9mm socket in half inch drive. If you get the direction of that wrong using the nut gun the bolt will shear straight away, whereas the hand tool will be much more controllable. |
Ah, I see what you mean. I think that would put it at a....12mm bolt? In any case, I'll start with the manual impact driver. I'd say that of course I won't run the wrench the wrong way, but the number of times I have run the drill the wrong way after using a left hand drill bit would make me a liar....
Going to triple check that before I put it on the bike (hopefully won't even need it though).
I believe it's like a drill, the harder you pull the trigger, the faster it spins.
Having said that, I am not certain that the mounting bolt is actually threaded into the engine mountings, I think it is just the nut on the other end that holds it, not going to risk it though.
Should all be coming in next week, so next weekend will be the reckoning (chain and sprockets to go on as well).
Cheers again for the advice! ____________________ I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 323 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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