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Yeap, snapped it.

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drbaig
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 20 Jun 2017    Post subject: Yeap, snapped it. Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/32i5uiR.jpg

It was pretty much already snapped but I thought maybe hammering a socket and turning it might work. Nope, broke off flush.

I think drilling is the only option here. Asked a few mechanics, not interested.

So it is up to me I suppose. Gonna try it with left handed drill bits. Either I will royally fuck it up even more than it already has been or it will be a monumental success.

Anything particular I should be aware of before I try drilling the bastard ?
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 20 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Centre punch it first.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 20 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make a drilling guide.

Get a piece of flat metal 6-8mm thick. Drill it with a 6mm drill to fit over the studs on one of the other cylinders. Bolt it on using the good stud so the hole is square over the broken one. Spot the broken stud with the 6mm drill using the drill guide, then once you have a good start established drill it out with a 5mm drill.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 20 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is weird how both middle top ones broke. But that was pretty much the reason why the exhaust was blowing.

I don't think they were studs anyway. I think they were bolts
https://i.imgur.com/6SIeFS6.jpg

I've left the other one alone now and it does have thread left. But if I can drill one out then I can drill the other.

I'll try manufacture something Pete It's a good idea.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 20 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the cat the inner of the middle two cylinders are the ones that get caked in crud from the hole in the lower fairing. Mine gave up a really good fight but i managed it without snapping one... one did bend though so i count myself really lucky.

you could drill it... but if you miss or it goes off, the ali in the head is softer than you'd think it is (ask me how i know Crying or Very sad Rolling Eyes )

This is what i'd do...get a steel nut and place it over the one without thread... fill the centre of the nut with weld so that it welds the nut and whats left of the bolt together.. the heat from the welder will with a bit of luck free up the stuck bolt remains and you'l have something to get a socket onto

A diy drill alignment device'emabob would be good but i've had limited success with drilling freehand.

just my 2p


Last edited by pompousporcupine on 09:09 - 21 Jun 2017; edited 1 time in total
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 21 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a safer option.
www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4464814#4464814
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 06:24 - 21 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:


Might be doable, but for the heat part.....
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 21 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The current ambient temperature is hot enough, it doesnt need much, would be done by now.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 23 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
The current ambient temperature is hot enough, it doesnt need much, would be done by now.


Well lets see if it works without heat. Because alum does not dissolve well at room temp. It crystallises over time. If it does not its gonna have to be drilled out anyway.

Another question. Do you guys think heating the bugger before drilling would be a good idea or no ?

I'll be heating the other one red hot, hammer it and and then attack it with molegrips to see if it works.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heating thhe bolt directly will expand the bolt and make it tighter, wont help you unless its to melt/soften threadlock.

Recommend running engine until hot. The head/threads will expand alllowing more clearance. Its a bit late for that now. Use left ground bits might help but unlikely to transfer enoigh torque
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. Heating takes advantage of the different expansion rate of dissimilar metals. They expand at different rates, which can "crack" a bolt loose.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alum solution didn't work. Meh.

Drilled one out. Was a bastard. Could not salvage thread so retap the same thread or a bigger one.

Second one following suit. Fuck all room to work with. That is also getting drilled out.

Both will have to be tapped. Mad

Great luck eh! Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that manifold holes can be quite variable so don't worry if the centres shift a bit. If you can restrict the over-drill to helicoil size you can whack a couple of those in, otherwise replace M6 with M8.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go for spark erosion
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

drbaig wrote:
Alum solution didn't work. Meh.

Drilled one out. Was a bastard. Could not salvage thread so retap the same thread or a bigger one.

Second one following suit. Fuck all room to work with. That is also getting drilled out.

Both will have to be tapped. Mad

Great luck eh! Laughing


Alum does work but it needs a lot more than ambient heat to do so and the heat has to be applied continuously. It also needs a bit of ingenuity to apply when the hole you're trying to clear is horizontal.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 25 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alum method needs heat and intricacy. Not easy at all where there is fuck all room the the engine is at a downward angle.

Left handed bits were no good...

The first hole is a bit shagged. 4mm bit I used and still it was not good enough. Not a big deal though. I've not completely fucked the hole so that is a saving grace.

Second went a lot better. Probably more experience after hours of drilling the first. Pretty straight, but will still needs re tapping.

All in all what a shitty job. At least it is not the infamous 2nd gear, then the bike would be going to junk yard

Lets see how re tapping works tomorrow.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 25 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The video I linked was done in frozen canada. He is using a 7w bulb, almost nothing, and took him 3 days.

Ive done a similar test, used a 50w 12v soldering iron and car battery. it was only a 4mm bolt but it was gone in a couple hours.

Unwilling/unable to apply more heat?



Slightly o/t, bloke at work has a carbon framed bicycle with some snapped bolts. Im not sure if epoxy resin/CF has good resistance to acid so I didnt suggest this. Instead going to make up a drilling guide using the good hole to locate it, and a transfer screw to get the hole location exact.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 25 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I know it works but I didn't have anyway to get heat to it. I drilled it out. Which itself is a big pain but its done now.

Drilled, tapped. The cat lives for another day. Nine lives and all.

https://i.imgur.com/XpRIgFV.jpg
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 25 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much better than my attempt. When I had 7 snap I attempted to drill the easiest and properly cocked it up sideways. Costing me 900 quid in dealer repair fees. They probably did it with alum as it took 3 fecking months, wish I knew of it back then.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 25 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Much better than my attempt. When I had 7 snap I attempted to drill the easiest and properly cocked it up sideways. Costing me 900 quid in dealer repair fees. They probably did it with alum as it took 3 fecking months, wish I knew of it back then.


I had to go buy a quality drill as I did not have reverse gear on mine. which kind of proved redundant in the end but tools are an investment. Tap and Die set and left drill bits. So 200 in tools and parts..

It took me 2 hours to drill one of them out. It was a royal nightmare. But I am glad it is done.

Now get on with fork and engine oil change.
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