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Why do these cam bearings wear out?

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lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 13 Aug 2017    Post subject: Why do these cam bearings wear out? Reply with quote

I've taken apart a Honda and two Chinese 125's recently and every one of them had this exact same problem:


https://s12.postimg.org/uxw79tq0t/111.jpg



They all had the same bearing in the same place worn in exactly the same manner. It hadn't actually caused any real trouble yet because the cam chain tensioner takes up the slack and if you keep adjusting the valves you can happily run for ages hardly noticing that the cam is eating through the bearing.

My question is why it happens. Is this down to bad oil flow in the head, or simply that these engine have no kind of actual oil filter so unclean oil just gets recirculated, or is the cam chain tensioner to blame because it keeps the chain under constant strain?




Looks to me like I could change the Honda style cam bearing to an actual needle bearing by fitting a couple of these:

https://s14.postimg.org/eos4uhc4h/RNA4902-_XL.jpg

https://www.kramp.com/shop-gb/en/149907/515415/0/Needle+roller+bearings+INA+FAG%2C+series+RNA49




But would they get enough oil? I don't know how much flow there is on this kind of head or if the oil would get into the needle rollers good enough for this modification to work.

I suppose I could always rout some external oil lines to dribble onto the bearings but I'd rather not have to go through all that.

I've had some thoughts about the automatic cam chain tensioner. Seems to me there's no need for the cam chain to be under constant strain if it's adjusted enough to keep the chain on the sprockets.

I remember older bike engines I've had where you had to manually adjust the cam chain tension occasionally and they always seemed to work fine if you kept an eye on things. Those old type of tensioners just took up the slack, usually by a nut and bolt kind of doodad, and didn't actually add constant tension to the chain automatically.

I was considering making some kind of manual cam chain adjuster out of a small sprocket. I think it would be easy enough to do. But am I barking up the wrong tree here? Is the fault with something else like oil flow?
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stevo as b4
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Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 13 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needle rollers are very tolerant of low oil flow. They need some form of low pressure constant oil feed, but really don't need and don't want pressure fed oiling to work best. If you have a feed that drips a few drops on oil on them every revolution of the crankshaft that is perfect.

Even the oil mist from a heavily breathing crankcase would probably oil them all they need.

I bet it's possible to engineer a needle or ball bearing solution for most bike engines with just two cam bearings, and more if the cam is a split design in the centre to allow centre bearings to be replaced.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 14 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a chronic problem with Honda twins.

Those bearings were a quick and dirty fix because they original designs had them running directly in the head and they often ovalled within a few thousand miles.

At a guess, it's an inherant lack of oil flow/pressure built into the design, exascerbated by the fact that no one ever cleans the gauze filter screen over the oil pump because you have to remove the right hand panel to get at it.

People used to do a roller bearing conversion on the old ones that ran the cam directly in the heads, it was a fairly common fix. I presume they must have line-bored the head with the cam-caps in place. I'm not sure if they were using double caged rollers like you pictured or just a caged needle roller like you'd use in a 2t small end running on the alloy.

One concern I'd have is for the oil feed. Doesn't the oil come up through the head under those bushes then through a hole in the bushing to lube the cam? So wouldn't you then need a hole in the outer bearing race and a locating pin to keep it in the correct place to avoid blocking the oil feed entirely? Maybe I'm wrong, my memory is a little sketchy on that kind of detail.

Even then, thinking out loud, perhaps all is not lost because a roller bearing would tend to be volume fed rather than pressure fed. If there is a sufficiency of oil in the vicinity of the bearing, all should be good. Be interesting to see where the oil level on top of the head sits with the engine running. If it's higher (or splashing higher) than the bottom of the bearing, I'd expect it to go well. That leaves the option (if my memory is correct and the oil feed is below the bearing) of relieving the oilway sideways so the oil is still flowing out into the rocker box.

Or consider running a caged needle roller direct on the alloy head?

Or just buy a couple of new iron cam bushes and go for another 20k miles?
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 14 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just throwing this out there:

In some engines the force-fed plain bearings act as a flow restriction in the oil circuit, which is what generates the oil pressure as the pump pushes against it. Could changing this affect the balance of oil flow and or pressure around the head/engine?
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lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 14 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
...One concern I'd have is for the oil feed. Doesn't the oil come up through the head under those bushes then through a hole in the bushing to lube the cam? So wouldn't you then need a hole in the outer bearing race and a locating pin to keep it in the correct place to avoid blocking the oil feed entirely? Maybe I'm wrong, my memory is a little sketchy on that kind of detail.

Even then, thinking out loud, perhaps all is not lost because a roller bearing would tend to be volume fed rather than pressure fed. If there is a sufficiency of oil in the vicinity of the bearing, all should be good. Be interesting to see where the oil level on top of the head sits with the engine running. If it's higher (or splashing higher) than the bottom of the bearing, I'd expect it to go well. That leaves the option (if my memory is correct and the oil feed is below the bearing) of relieving the oilway sideways so the oil is still flowing out into the rocker box.



Yes the original design has the oil bleeding into the bearing by way of a small hole which runs through a locating pin thing. At first I thought it would probably be possible to drill a small hole in the needle roller bearing and keep it positioned in place by something like cutting a very thin bit of leather or plastic to act as a shim when clamping the rockers down.

But after thinking about it I am inclined to believe there's probably well enough oil spew around in there to lube the bearings just fine. There's the trickle into the rocker things and there must surely be some amount of splash off the cam chain and it wouldn't take much to keep the needle roller bearing happy. So I think I'm just going to go for it with the roller bearings.

The issue of the oil pressure being somewhat regulated by the oil being pushed through the various channels has me thinking that I might have to cut a very tiny channel for the oil that is usually fed through the cam bearings to go. I'd bet if you just blocked off the oilway with a roller bearing it may hinder oil circulation. Cutting a little channel to bleed the oil off into the head might be the best thing for a few different reasons.

The oil pump is a pretty basic affair but it seems to work well enough when you spin it by hand. I'm fairly confident it can move adequate oil around the engine. I'll be sure to run the engine with the rocker cover off at first and have a look at it, but I think it will be fine.

Now the other thing I'm trying to ascertain is whether the cranks come apart in a manner that means I can change them around. It turns out the 360 crank design in the 125cc engine is more rare and much harder to get cams for than the 250's. From what I've discovered so far most of the Chinese cranks for the 125 engine are 180 degree. I was wanting to stick with the 360 because I was intending to run a single carb and although I have no experience of it I've read somewhere that it can be a bit iffy trying to get a single carb to run right on a 180 crank.

Anyway all the the common 250 engines I've encountered so far seem to be 360 cranks and the 250 cam will fit right into the 125 head which might be good, so it makes sense for me to keep with the 360 crank idea on the hybrid engine I'm making out of a 125 bottom end and 250 barrels.

Technically I don't HAVE to use a 125 head on the experimental engine but it would mean much higher compression if I did.
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