Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


MZ 150 ETZ, Rhyno's super fun time in the garage

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop Goto page 1, 2  Next
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:05 - 15 Aug 2017    Post subject: MZ 150 ETZ, Rhyno's super fun time in the garage Reply with quote

Today I checked the chain adjustment of the MZ, it was rather slack so I tightened it, but then moving the wheel around the chain got too tight in one spot. So I thought I Fazered the adjustment and started from there again. This time I got perfect chain tension , but after I moved the rear wheel again, it got too lose. Constantly rotating the wheel and checking the tension, I can tell it gets tighter and looser, as the chain moves.er, as the chain moves.

Now, is it fecked chain (how?) or could something be bent? The gearbox leaks around the output shaft seal, so that could be a clue, but the leak is minor. The sprockets look alright, the chain seems fairly new, no dead links noticed.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 22:21 - 04 Sep 2017; edited 1 time in total
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:12 - 15 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are all the rollers in place?

If it's on an OEM chain, the rollers have a tendancy to split and fall off. You usually find them in a pile of sludge at the bottom of the rear chain enclosure. Jawas and Minsks do the same.

Rumour has it that there is actually a factory tolerance for a maximum number of respectable communist chain rollers you can lose before the state recommends bringing the peoples motorcycle you have been entrusted with for servicing, with appropriate requisition forms completed in triplicate.

Also check it hasn't sheared any of the bolts holding the rear sprocket on.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Evil Hans
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Nov 2015
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:27 - 15 Aug 2017    Post subject: Re: MZ 150 ETZ, chain adjustment issues Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Today I checked the chain adjustment of the MZ, it was rather slack so I tightened it, but then moving the wheel around the chain got too tight in one spot. So I thought I Fazered the adjustment and started from there again. This time I got perfect chain tension , but after I moved the rear wheel again, it got too lose. Constantly rotating the wheel and checking the tension, I can tell it gets tighter and looser, as the chain moves.er, as the chain moves.

Now, is it fecked chain (how?) or could something be bent? The gearbox leaks around the output shaft seal, so that could be a clue, but the leak is minor. The sprockets look alright, the chain seems fairly new, no dead links noticed.


I had exactly this on my Bandit. I couldn't actually spot what the issue was, but in the end I replaced the chain and sprockets and the problem went away. Sorry, that probably wasn't that helpful!
____________________
Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:44 - 15 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know, all the rollers were there and shiny. I'm gonna do some more investigating. I had not much of time today. The chain looks brand new, the gearbox oil sure kept it nice and lubricated.

I can't remember when was the last time someone took the front sprocket cover off. This could be the very first time in 8 years, that I have it in the garage.

https://image.ibb.co/kMd3Ra/IMG_20170815_142722.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/iW4zzv/IMG_20170815_144645.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:19 - 16 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably a good idea to have a look at the rear one too. I know it's tricky to get at but I remember hearing a clunk from the back end of my Minsk 125 only to find it had sheared 4 out of the 5 bolts holding the rear sprocket on.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:30 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE

As suggested, I made further investigation. The rear sprocket seems alright, no teeth missing, it seems rather fresh. Now for the interesting part, I found one dead bearing (left), one alright bearing (right) and one bearing I'd like to change but have no idea how (sprocket brearing = there's no play and it's smooth, so might gonna leave it as is). The wheel bearigns are CSSR made, so they are probably from the late 80's. The sprocket bearing is somewhere inside the whole carrier (how do I take it appart?). The rubber part of the carrier seems alright and sturdy.

Could it be the carrier was not seated properly on the wheel hub, which could affect the chain tension adjustment?

I'm gonna inspect the front sprocket and output shaft again, but it was alright the last time I checked.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_112923.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_111243.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_112643.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_112820.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:03 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't see the wheel seating badly affecting the chain tension because I'm pretty sure it's a quick-release setup with the sprocket and carrier attached to the left swingarm with a large bolt and a flat-sided stub in an oval hole? If that big nut's tight, the carrier should be square and I can't really see how the chain tension could fluctuate. Unloess it weasn't fully seated in the hole? But then I'd expect real difficulty getting the wheel spacer in.

One other thing that occurred to me, is the engine in square? Any play or cracks on the mounts? There is a fair bit of movement on some of those MZ motors anyway.

Communist era bearings can be measurably oval. My minsk had CCCP marked bearings, they were appallingly bad. On the plus side, MZ generally use utterly standard size car wheel bearings throughout.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:16 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see, well the wheel bearings are £1.40 per unit, no problem there.
Do you happen to know how may I get inside the rear sprocket carrier? There is obviously a bearing inside as well and now it'd be a good time to do it. I don't have a torch nor press, so if that's how you take it appart, then I won't even bother.

The engine mount could be the culprit, I'm gonna check it later today, might as well just replace it.

Also, the left axle couldn't be tightened up too much, as that would make the wheel drag. I get it this was due to the dead bearing, or I'm missing some bits and/or wisdom. The right axle nut may be tightened properly, with no issues.
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:49 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:

Also, the left axle couldn't be tightened up too much, as that would make the wheel drag. I get it this was due to the dead bearing, or I'm missing some bits and/or wisdom. The right axle nut may be tightened properly, with no issues.


Now THAT sounds suspicious. Either the bearing or a missing/mis-assembled spacer? Can you get a parts diagram for them to see how it should be ordered?

You'd normally bash a bearing out of a sprocket carrier with a punch against the inner race and hammer like you would with a wheel bearing but I'm not sure how you go about removing the speedo drive/axle. My suspicion (having worked on a few eastern block 2t-s) is that you probably whack the axle through the wheel with a big hammer (nut on to protect the threads) then simply get a socket on the bearing and drive it out. Check for a circlip on the inside though. I'm not sure how that speedo drive attaches though.

It would be unusual on an MZ for it to need more for a job like that than the standard tool kit and a large hammer.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:04 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at this (250ETZ), the only spacers there are the number 8, 32 and 33. I'm pretty sure I have 32 and 33, not sure about no. 8. I also can't seem to remember there even was no. 7 between the bearings. Thinking

https://www.mobile.ost2rad.de/images/etz250-hinterrad-bremse.gif
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:41 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to often get the tight/slack chain tension when I was running MZ wheels but I just ignored it if it wasn't too bad and I never had a problem. The chain gaiters help keep even a pretty bad chain working. Of course I only ever bought the absolutely cheapest chains available and greased them to buggery but they always worked OK for me.

I did used to wonder why it happened but it's only a 428 chain so it's not a REALLY strong one compared to other bikes but strong enough for what I needed. And I have had cheap aftermarket MZ sprockets that were just made badly so they were slightly out of round but close enough to work.


And by the way, there is a bearing hidden there under all the grease in the sprocket carrier in your pictures and it's held in by a circlip that's sometimes a complete bastard to get out. I learned this the hard way by trying to pound the bearing out, wondering why it wouldn't budge until I broke the circlip grove and buggered the whole lot up.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:02 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, moving on

So, I was looking around and did find a clip inside the carrier. The clip was cracked and removing it turned into a half hour of pure fun. After that, I started to take things apart, all went quite well. Maybe even too well.

The carrier bearing wasn't that bad, but there was a little play and as I was already there and the bearings on the MZ cost next to nothing, I'm gonna replace it as well.

I also found scoring marks on the axle, but they don't seem that bad. Oh and the engine is tilting left. Rolling Eyes

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_154558.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_152146.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_162908.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_161040.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_162654.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_160026.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_163519.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_151349.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170904_164343.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 17:26 - 04 Sep 2017; edited 1 time in total
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:05 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, looking at this, I might be missing one bearing.

https://www.moto-prodejna.cz/images/etz250-hinterradantrieb.gif
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:58 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That picture is of the 250 wheel parts and I'm pretty sure it's different than the 125 wheel. As I recall the 250 has two inner bearings in the sprocket carrier and the 125 has one, so you're not missing a bearing. I used the 125 wheel on my 250 for like 20 years with a one piece GN250 axle and odd things for spacers. I actually preferred the 125 wheel because the cush drive rubber was a better design than the 250 one and lasted longer. The sprockets were the same size so it wasn't a gearing issue. The 125 wheel has slightly smaller brakes but it worked fine.

MZ engines are often tilted when you look at them. It just happens over time. The rubber and plastic bits in the engine mounts get old and knackered and sometimes previous owners kept the chains too tight which pulls the engine cockeyed and after a time it'll crack the engine mounts almost always right near the top lug on the righthand mount. You can go around for ages without noticing the broken engine mount. Have a look at yours and see if it's broke there. That often causes slight engine tilt. New engine mount rubbers are always a good idea when they get old.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:16 - 04 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is actually good news, thank you. I'm gonna get the rear wheel sorted and then I'm gonna ''straighten up'' the engine.

I'm still hoping all the issues, I've had, were due to the dead bearing.

Feck this, I checked it now and I'm definitely missing the spacer that goes between the wheel bearings. Mad
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:46 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I'm wating for parts, I've decided to check the gearbox leak and found the culprit. Someone thought it'd be a great idea to smear red sealent all over the place insted of putting there a new gasket.

Time to replace the rubber seal and fabricate a new paper gasket. Thumbs Up

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170905_111846.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170905_112554.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170905_112859.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170905_115415.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:52 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the spacer you're missing- Do you mean that short bit of pipe that goes inside the wheel between the bearings on each side? Sometimes people leave it out when they change wheel bearings because they can't see what difference it makes but it does serve a purpose. Without it the wheel bearings will nip up too tightly when you tighten the axle and it will feel like the brakes are dragging or something.

It's nothing but a short bit of pipe so if you don't have one you can make one but it does have to be the correct length which is basically exactly the distance between the bearing inner races when the wheel is out and the bearings are in. You could make one out of something easily enough. I've been given free "knackered" MZ wheels in the past that didn't have that pipe in them so I know it happens.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:56 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hang on- what the feck is that sticking out of your sprocket? A bolt?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:09 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
I'm gonna get the rear wheel sorted and then I'm gonna ''straighten up'' the engine.


To replace the rubber and plastic bits in the rear engine mounts you have to take the engine completely out and take the swingarm off. That's why it seldom gets done and people just leave it to gradually get worse.

Another little tip is that you can beat the 125/150 engine mounts flat with a hammer and then a 250 engine will bolt right in. I did that once when I had my first ETZ150. It stayed like that for a while and in the end I even eventually changed the details on the logbook to say it had a 250 engine. At the time DVLA didn't care at all because it meant paying more tax. But when I tried to change it back to a 150 they absolutely would NOT have it. Go figure.

However, I always preferred the 150 engine to the much heavier 250 ones. The 150 engine when tuned up right will do pretty much everything the 250 did and it weighs much less so the bike is more fun to ride. You can get 70mph out of a good running 150. The 250's struggle to get more than that.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:09 - 05 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the short pipe. A friend of mine is fabricating one as we speak. And I did have the issues you are talking about, I couldn't tighten the axle, as that would cause excatly what you've described. That also probably fecked up the left bearing, but it could be a conicidence, as those bearings are at least 28 years old.

The bolt is from the side cover, I just screwed it in, so I could rest the sprocket and chain there. I'm not going to change the chain, so there's no need to split it.

Also, this happened to me some time ago, when I crashed the bike on mud (no damage, no injuries). After that, I was riding it home and noticed the rear end was wobbling, so I stopped the bike and made this lovely picture.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/180920143364.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:09 - 06 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm done, ... and the chain tension adjustment is still impossible to do, so I'm gonna replace the chain next.

I put the spacer (see last picture) between the wheel bearings. I can now finally tighten the wheel axle, which makes the whole rear end more tight, less wobbly and quite possibly much safer. I'm genuinely surprised how well the MZ rides now, no play in the wheel whatsoever. It's like when you have low tyre pressure and then inflate it properly, I'm very pleased with the result. £3.50 well spent.

I also resealed the output shaft, put a new rubber seal and paper gasket there, will see how well it'll keep the MZ's oil inside the gearbox. Even if it doesn't, I won't be mad.

The new sprocket carrier bearing is also in place. I might have damaged the bearing in the proces of reassembly, OR the previous bearing wasn't even bad, as the feel in the bearing inside the carrier is the same as it was. The bearing is about £1.80, so I'm gonna ask a more experienced friend of mine to check my work and maybe replace the bearing. It's an easy job, the worst part of all this is to take the rear wheel off and put it back on again. I'm a very calm lad, but putting the wheel back on the bike today made me say the words feck and cxnt quite a lot.
I'm gonna put it this way, if I had a rear tyre puncture and the puncture repair kit with me, I'd call the AA and wouldn't even bother fixing it myself. Laughing


https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170906_130652.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170906_133500.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170906_134634.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170906_141427.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170906_142306.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/img_20170905_204047.jpg
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lingeringstin...
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 May 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:47 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always found it a bit fiddly to get the MZ wheel centered and tightened correctly. On mine it always seemed to tighten the chain slightly when the wheel spindle was finally tightened up and I could see no reason for it. I think the MZ two piece axle is a neat idea if you're going to be taking your wheel out on the road and fixing your own punctures and don't want to bother the chain adjustment but I switched to a one piece axle way back when I started using the 125 wheel on my 250 because I couldn't find MZ axle bits that centered the wheel properly due to my mixing of 125 and 250 parts.

I used a Suzuki GN250 axle which I'm still using now with my Chinese cast wheel. It's a little bit too long by about an inch or two but I just use spacers on the ends and it's always been fine. It never bothered me to have the wheel out to fix a puncture. It only takes moments to retighten the chain again.

Since the MZ swingarm doesn't have any locating marks on it for the chain adjusters I started using wing nuts on the threaded bit. I'd bang the wheel all the way forward so the axle was straight in the slots and then wind the wing nut in until they were both starting at the same point and then use both hands to turn them the same number of turns each at the same time until the chain tension was right and then nip up the axle.

As long as you're using standard MZ axle bits you might want to check that the long axle part is straight. I have had a very slightly bent one before. Also don't OVER tighten things. It isn't necessary. You can easily strip the threads on the chain adjusters and they don't actually have to be REALLY tight just to locate the axle. Just make sure to get the axle nipped up soundly and you're good.

And when you're nipping up the axle at the end it's actually beneficial to do it on the ground (off the center stand) and try to put your foot on the brake arm and engage the brakes while tightening the axle up. This helps keep things centered better when they're tight.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:59 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say, it looks like you've replaced a nasty bearing with a nasty bearing.

They are standard sizes. At least one of them in your pictures (not sure whaty bit it's of) is a 6302 -2ZR and apparently made in Solvakia? I know you're patriotic but not a place famed for it's precision engineering in this regard?

For roughly double the cost, you could have a German made FAG one that will be mostly circular.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:18 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The carrier one is a standard 6004, I think I damaged it while putting the short axle through it. The place of origin didn't really influence my purchase. It's my mate's bike and he told me to get the cheaper bearings made in Slovakia.

I think to put the short axle through the bearing safely, I'm gonna have to use a torch. I was very careful, yet I might have put too much of lateral stress on it during the assembly process. As said earlier, the bearing is cheap and easy to get to, so replacing it is not really an issue.

HOW do you actually put the short axle through the bearing?
I lubricated the bearing, put it on the axle as far as it went, then layed the bearing down on a vice, so the inner and outter ring was supported, and then gently tapped the axle through the bearing with a hammer (used a piece of wood on top of the axle to protect it).
____________________
'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:05 - 07 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing in oven, axle in freezer. Assemble quickly.

Or get a bit of pipe that fits over the axle and bears against the inner race and use it as a slide hammer.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 205 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.18 Sec - Server Load: 0.12 - MySQL Queries: 17 - Page Size: 151.85 Kb