Kawasaki Er-5 - new sprockets for more torque

[sporkwings]

Hi guys,

I found a thread in here a while back, where you talked about getting a bit more torque on a Kawasaki Er-5, for the cost of a bit of top speed, by replacing the sprockets for the chain on it.

But I can't for the love of god find it!

So, can you help me with how many teeth the sprockets should have, so that I can use the same chain length, but still get the extra torque?

Thanks! :)

[Rogerborg]

You can just go down a couple of teeth on the front and then adjust the chain to suit, as long as you've got plenty of adjustment left. I'm running -1 on the front of my Nazi Tractor, it's fine.

If you want absolute parity on teeth, you can go down on the front and up on the back to match. JT sprockets offers a wide variety of options:

https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1152/

But if you're replacing both sprockets, why not do the chain to match? And if you're going to do that, you can get any combination of sprockets and chain links that you want.

Are you asking about the ideal final drive ratio? Ideal for what purposes? Stunting, beating Fireblades off the lights?
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[haroman666]

Less teeth on front + More teeth on rear sprocket = Faster Acceleration, less top end

More teeth on front + Less teeth on rear sprocket = More top end, more strenuous on the engine to get there

Simples.
____________________
The mistresses: 2000 Honda CBR600f, 2000 Honda VTR1000

[sporkwings]

Thanks for the answer!

There is a brand new chain on, why I don't want to change it, if not necessary.

I am used to ride a Yamaha Xt600 as a commuter bike, but I sold it and got this Kawasaki er-5 in the trade, but I guess I miss the extra kick the Yamaha had, when I ride in the city.
I know it is two completely different bikes, but I think that I could settle if I just get a bit more acceleration out of the Kawasaki.

So then, the rule is, if I understand correctly, one tooth down on front, one up on the back, and the chain should fit over without taking off/applying chain links, is that right?

[quote="Rogerborg"]You can just go down a couple of teeth on the front and then adjust the chain to suit, as long as you've got plenty of adjustment left. I'm running -1 on the front of my Nazi Tractor, it's fine.

If you want absolute parity on teeth, you can go down on the front and up on the back to match. JT sprockets offers a wide variety of options:

https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1152/

But if you're replacing both sprockets, why not do the chain to match? And if you're going to do that, you can get any combination of sprockets and chain links that you want.

Are you asking about the ideal final drive ratio? Ideal for what purposes? Stunting, beating Fireblades off the lights?[/quote]

[Rogerborg]

Sure, but you can just go down a tooth (or more) on the front rather than buying a rear sprocket as well if it's in good condition. If it needs replacing anyway, fair enough.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[RhynoCZ]

[Rogerborg]

Interesting if true, but...

[RhynoCZ]

Alright, might not be overdrive, but everything else still stands. I've noticed this on the CB-1 and my neighbor's Ninja 250.

When I got the CB-1 there was a very short final drive gear ratio (+6 or even more teeth back - 44 teeth total). The bike did 190+km/h quite effortlesly reving the engine up to the limiter in the 6th gear. Then, I put it much closer to the factory final drive gear ratio, 4 teeth smaller rear sprocket (the factory was between 36 an 38 teeth, I couldn't get 38, so got 40). The bike was not capable of doing 190km/h, not even in the 5th gear, and it got a bit sluggish, BUT the fuel economy improved significantly, plus not revving it up to the top all the time reduced the engine temperature (the fan was pretty happy to kick in with the short ratio).
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Kickstart]

Hi

Or for the same effect and zero cost you could just change down a gear.

All the best

Katy
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[RhynoCZ]

Yes, but wouldn't that defy the whole concept of having a 6 speed gearbox?
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[The Shaggy D.A.]

Not if you select gears by the conditions and preference, rather than its number.
____________________
Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5

[Kickstart]