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Any enfield experts in the house? New project.

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 Topic moved: from The Workshop to Show & Tell by stinkwheel (26 Aug 2017 - 21:34)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 21:02 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Any enfield experts in the house? New project. Reply with quote

Moved this to show and tell since I already have the first load of pictures up

I just bought a project bike. Apparently an '03 500 bullet. In workshop because I'm looking to ID parts here. A show and tell thread will be forthcoming in due course.

Yeah. Well. I think the frame might be an '03. Let the oddball commence:

Link to gallery if pictures don't work

Overview. Yes it was cheap.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DEnc40stn7JBdsDMq14hnKveKaOBW3QKfgLde1MQaHsxQturilPvtX3KQIPzgUBqq0sMkKcHRh5YEbcSb40NZkUOipiumTkqt6bYVrn6VnKlOt72w66a2P2NMUiQgNb_F0LUwYrB3w=w1182-h886-no

Ok. We appear to have TWIN, SINGLE LEADING brakes. What?
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bPXIYsDW2Zgv7kiD8kvtlB09BwRV4WAQHfznyu8HQhBOIDPfptIY5FEEGnAD4X324fgRHIJKXX7RpNKtnENOP132356Y5Bad3Gase3QXHmQ_Ik9SykD-40zKGVqMWjsfT5Spk9Z8wg=w665-h886-no

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UxgVGVMOEv2U0yYjNXXs9cAy1MmyxPFpoJHfmDZSv8UkqXtJgvszLJwLmmeEtPcB4GfiybWliwaIIlsh4D-tBQ_rKyNg42Tax-TuaKnxjxQPFWkaS-Or-BDH_EQO8A9f_EFcDI6ujA=w665-h886-no

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3YfeXpX7yKHd1QCClu1ZQJt7BDLuC5eOOPDeEI1mNgsMm_SxaXrS4Bh3MpXrzRR8CW1O02QIjCx02MLxfnrx-IG1_Z3Z1uzqxO5mCCa9O2BmbDlCF5eMyMHpxbsCV1sq-aq_FczDJA=w665-h886-no

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2JFuR8MeXt55qt-c6vx6pQJn9TBdMWjN6AH7s2yBvo1hTqQFVHY6fX9RWqN6pafMH7zpOhysTwZavQKkhOvzDOYVCRkf77EMd3oVjr6LFrOUwWMuDjgNkTtFsT0W5Xfk2uvi06nK0g=w1182-h886-no

That's weird enough but the clutch actuator and adjuster is on the left hand side, inside the primary chaincase. Clearly made like that because there is a blanking plug to adjust it through.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_f1n0a9Z6xA7vSqWdiTiRasWo4l2nlJ3HuL51PoylzqpkkKgM_0_iiT7zYPsGkdEQi-9ClC9YA1D2BQ3vDHiVxMi3PBANDu4AcBrfEJUUfBjtW9Z4Zsigvv__Qyy39-wo-UpN0gdeg=w1182-h886-no

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p0YFSAmcLEtcK4LSWmEh8CJg66iJgAhOoRyoxKyzTFzXnoIrLkArOz077bQ2uIlWbyiP93vPQ2M144rFdRpsKm_Ic8I8bGSd7jnDhJaQhQ8ZmyAGgj3wAq8PywD-uYAbLeUtvcJmXQ=w1182-h886-no

The gearbox has an old looking font stamped on. The "keyhole" cover for the standard clutch adjuster is there but the entrance for the standard clutch cable routing is not drilled. There is a grease nipple to the swingarm bearings.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lGHC39S2w-yU2jpT-y-EpRa8S2r2WVrB0Xkzr4g6XprxPcBe833N4YQdcg-uvyOTQA3pJgTQHDSG2ND6jChpk0PyKE7gctHfR5_tUdcuE7_eu46kCfTgoVmgDnMMht_526qywHmnAw=w1182-h886-no

Twin plugs. Valve lifter on tappet cover.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WUzYMWWs969R1rnXCyonjkaiGq1vsZampjQKYbXlzNIuMCYlyqzBfvlcRmRBBS1_UQ1pqtbx57eMLP9Qy9-lD5YA2GhzWNstXTxQ_E4dItQbddtkCFnXvd-3_XfGRsgXBFYRX_jJQQ=w665-h886-no

Two wire alternator.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kTNQubRYFjJReXAQOIwtwFm8DmH4XRk1Mf_bZNQl1OwRfjVWJiJPMpPtvS8wmuXeJSRzcK7nw1DLM2qG38i9XCAythbvuO_IQQPkHy18tKyY-i4XTrpqjIWke2hZsKmVE1AxGvmPkA=w1182-h886-no

There is more oddness everywhere you look. Am confused. What have I just bought? Shocked Confused
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 20:36 - 26 Aug 2017; edited 3 times in total
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear, the one i had (535cc) had a valve lifter on the other side of the plug hole, (yours is twin plugs).
The fork gaiters (i had none) will hide oil weeps, also mine had 3 gears with a seperate lever to kick straight into neutral from 2nd or 3rd gear when stopping.
Still 1950 spec though. Sad
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 06:31 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Re: Any enfield experts in the house? Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Yes it was cheap.


Shocked How cheap? Laughing
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a fair chance that you'll spend more on restoring it, than the cost of a good one would set you back.

My advice would be to look for another donor bike that you could use to make one good one from the two. Then with the left over parts, you could recoup some money by ebaying them.

If not, spend away my man, it's your pit.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:05 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Re: Any enfield experts in the house? Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
Shocked How cheap? Laughing

Three guineas and 50 farthings, I assume.

It looks like someone ran a broom round the Chennai factory, tipped it into the bin behind Hitchcocks, gave it a good shake, and that fell out.

Are those sparks running off truly independent coils, or is it just a case of whichever one feels like providing the best earth on any given stroke?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a twin coil. Has a small black box of electricks.

The plot thickens.

It has definately rattled through hitchcocks at some point. Owner 5 (I am number 7) was one Alan Hitchcock. No idea if anything stuck or if it was just passing through.

The front end is probably off a late 1950's meteor minor. The twin-single front brake is a sidecar specific one, again 1950's.

The clutch is a "scissor clutch" also off a 1950's bike, the entire primary drive may be off one of these.

Investigations continue.

Paid £650 delivered.

The aim is to make a sleeper out of it with upgraded running gear and a fire-breathing motor. I was looking for a frame and a set of crankcases with timing gear attached. I have that.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 26 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've pulled a lot of it apart now. The engine has clearly bee built by someone who knows what they are doing. The clutch is apparently good for 50+bhp and it's got a Reddich build gearbox fitted so one less wory from my intention to more than double the BHP.

The frame on the other hand, is the work of an utter fuckwit.

Observe if you will. the mudguard is attached to the swingarm. The chain guard is attached to the frame. When you bounce on it. The mudguard hits the back of the seat and the chain hits the inside of the chainguard.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bp4sRnFFh2PnUIcT4qVU4tAnrivQm4SRh7heU6FKjz7JA-gnFnJwcABS_bysV26jbVhXhrzdoYSuqxnACWTirvjYF8znqpcm5hJpzj1x6d1UYjMN_qbxmIiYdWTS2Rj6Fl5ELpSt1A=w1182-h886-no

Clutch is great, the spacer they made for it, not so much. There hasn't been oil in here for a very long time. There have been spiders.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3zEi9Xcg7o4N4WV4G-5OyBRT83G8ey5HGVR8wAkdG-dj1F-DwChNuos0cVAsTA_iif2kR2RS8Tm5P-jxw6l4y54qiz-TzUj2IsJim6IRuMlmK9GbvwEIODd9XHeVEcdxC9o9r0R6OA=w1182-h886-no

That Harley exhaust weighs a ton.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VN10jkaHYOn8u0wY1GFWwM5wE2FIDs6HfHZtbll_JiXi899yXskCEiZP2AUkLNewAsHiMIAyKcRKCjrAgWjUH0ZS0kKP_W_ed_FQ1q9VD0AV3OvbyjI_Mg0nj7vrKZ34TIB6tSePhA=w1182-h886-no

FIlter screens clean. It's got an oil filter packing piece and magnet fitted. There was about 100ml of stale fuel sloshing about in the bottom of the crankcase.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RAl0GeaPVlNWbS2rOpWcsb1QUz-k7tZ1Q_x9ajYP2GyRssraKW9CtYNYbfdAmsI4I8avPwGj-_wp5CKquWpBkpNIPP0rzXzVDIJvGAuiVXcH_PKTayFcVJAGlasYZSEdO9tVYePhUA=w1182-h886-no

This aftermarket valve lifter would set you back £100 by itself.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z5-9dDVj_lJ66KxqSgN1DR1B_W46rmXfK-XUCMzBhzNY-dENooYD9Cc_Ie4ln5dBhL40o3zEPwhnIp-j16bMUzQIjj6h7aFfOXhuoPGXiG9RwtwTSqUAKL5xmYWTG_5VCWw5-f7XoQ=w1182-h886-no

Ok, this has to be the work of the fuckwit owner. Helicoil that stripped thread? Nah, lets just fit a non load-rated cheese-head facing downhill so if it comes out, it'll drop stright into the timing gears.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e_dokH4OaHbxaoPW_H48BgdP32jbw7GiNNbiLy5E5QLbuvNEyUbr_93ljCsdcg9XztNstI2fmWI8bXTUxaJyct91HC2E5BPGwe9RA9DxPZb0XcdFn9uzLLPwmy9_KdZca8GxwZhszg=w665-h886-no-

Really nasty original rockers with rough as arseholes casting which appears to have been dressed by hanging out of a moving rickshaw and running it along the road. These will have to go.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dIwt1Kqt0fv0D5bGL0TPAVa-HwzlRNODmCtG0GkDh_h8wFP9w1C52jPQ8juZPyocLcxDJtzujDBRU7zfjhurvt2HSTXqg_b2SBP6f8tCoPZ7BSeDNnQ6V0nOBrTJZ0Du6mIkNhSIMA=w1182-h886-no

Someone has spent an enormous amount of time on this head.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l-hN15iv79Sa5cIwt5c45H7LLUBxk9YU-8L7uMHdD0JL3ta1oHg6s_YRwYpVvwP5LNd9BArzKf0HeD92QtIra60v_veNDPrnNHOjr_XT0o8U7zAP_xzRqOZS1onM2hpi5UhVD8rmw=w1182-h886-no

But didn't believe in gasket sealant. These copper head gaskets look good, but you can get a fibre one with a proper coated fire-ring for a fiver. It would have blown like hell with no wellseal on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3y1U5vU2xTigveBUqxLJeEIN2VDSmuaisoOoP8ua16YS0NXApFY2SLEi1s9iRh7QbyonfBTxtdjupjmVDyFmuuln_wn_VsmMEI-ww3UJLFnGuEfw8a0FDEM1Oq_Zan2d_0IxEs0JBA=w665-h886-no

Standard size piston. Was hoping for a 535 one.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wyrexPyZcYEac1Z3pP-FiibOsjkZ3V11iWW8BfLhSisUFuul_GA-epdzdAFlxLppvEd0T-cq3-azfsLyVaHbynQHwUMQSsiWyPMMol2Q0C2O65x31u15ezwaDI8yUR2dDyEmmXx-TA=w1182-h886-no

Engine out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dRNWcBUtw9HT5KH7_SJ6-nyG3prPgHk_qmf0m1nQxlUzfFKkWvz3_92dPqw8wxOuIjCMVQKxRlk7y9bO1nDeRY_9ITas2pWJbhFRrX9uu_SugmQXvKIbRianKSFRVB3DRNycK7LMpw=w1182-h886-no

They were pretty advanced bikes when first made. Engine is a fuly stressed frame member. If you sat on this, it would bend.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l82AMwT9uwJuEhpjDW8qUNJwd1qWfKMLmekQx4hb1Ml4vvic6u2w5dOo_cmOl6xWHICognF2-my-iIm_dGBUZSCWKbkvDd4SHKi51PuLER8Iy1Avy9zIGvxiGx3jJmZh5GKC_MQYpg=w1182-h886-no

Pleased I did take the motor out. Fuckwit has been at it again. Is that a bit of cheap (and now bent) threaded bar masquerading as an engine bolt? Gonna have to hacksaw it to bits. A proper one would have cost all of a fiver.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c6V_1wK_hLZ6QITFsHVH4hoiMye4io2SGROfxnwVgzDapaEAk3pn5TwH2iOslEQJZt3EDzQRWds8ef82aCmB7zyK6-mbJUs55XKz5ptNTVE-ssto9Z83UpWn-TH4n15XQcUslbez_A=w1182-h886-no

The weirdest thing to my mind is that someone has spent a whole lot of time rebuilding that engine, then never started it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 27 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Watching with interest Thumbs Up
The more detail and pictures the better Thumbs Up

I is want to learn Thumbs Up
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really cool project, but very odd how much work has gone in without it ever being started.

Without being funny, what kind of power is classed as "fire breathing" in the Royal Enfield world...40hp? If you could get it reliable at that kind of power...and upgrade the suspension to match, it could be a bit of a weapon (by my standards).

Look forward to lots more pictures. Although hopefully the weird discoveries end here...
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lingeringstin...
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looking engine! The frame looks like it would be even weaker than my horrible MZ frame though. But it's probably originally much better designed and built than my bike frame so it probably actually works. You've got good bits in that engine. Nice find. A good looking project that has potential. Is that a Wipac rotor?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 11:58 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

UnspeedySam wrote:

Without being funny, what kind of power is classed as "fire breathing" in the Royal Enfield world...40hp? If you could get it reliable at that kind of power...and upgrade the suspension to match, it could be a bit of a weapon (by my standards).


Yes. 40bhp at the rear wheel is the target (and apprently readily do-able). Apparently an early EFI front end with disc brakes will fit in the current yokes. I may get some bracing done to the swingarm when it's out.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

lingeringstink wrote:
Nice looking engine! The frame looks like it would be even weaker than my horrible MZ frame though. But it's probably originally much better designed and built than my bike frame so it probably actually works. You've got good bits in that engine. Nice find. A good looking project that has potential. Is that a Wipac rotor?


Yes, Wipac rotor and 12v/120W stator. Intriguingly, the threraded bit of crank sticking out looks a fair bit longer than I'd expect. There could still be further presents to unwrap.

An oddity of the frame is the fuel tank is actually a stressed member too. It bolts on front and back between the headstock gussetting and the saddle mount. and significantly stiffens the spine of the frame.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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UnspeedySam
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
UnspeedySam wrote:

Without being funny, what kind of power is classed as "fire breathing" in the Royal Enfield world...40hp? If you could get it reliable at that kind of power...and upgrade the suspension to match, it could be a bit of a weapon (by my standards).


Yes. 40bhp at the rear wheel is the target (and apprently readily do-able). Apparently an early EFI front end with disc brakes will fit in the current yokes. I may get some bracing done to the swingarm when it's out.


Sounds good! I really must have a go on an Enfield at some point. Although I have very little free time, so the level of reliability probably wouldn't work for me.
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Watching this thread with interest. Looks like you will have a lot of fun with this one. What sort of time scale are you allowing yourself for it?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tracer1234 wrote:
Watching this thread with interest. Looks like you will have a lot of fun with this one. What sort of time scale are you allowing yourself for it?


It's a slow burner. The engine part is comparatively easy, it's just a case of chucking a lot of money at it and bolting parts in.

The chassis will take longer I suspect. It really needs taking right back to the frame. I'll probably land up building wheels for it and suchlike. The whole front end is totally unsuitable.

I'm probably going to chance my luck with a big order of parts from India at some point. Quality can be very hit and miss as can customs.

Engine first, unless i see someone braking one of the early disc brake models.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing to add, other than this is a very interesting project and I like the thread and all your excellent pics of stuff so far.

Hopefully it becomes the Enfield monster that you are aiming for too. Is there a set budget for this build or have I just spoken the words of a proper idiot? Laughing

Nice hearing about the Redditch parts too, out of all the Brit firms once making large bikes ive always liked RE alot more than some, for reasons why I haven't got a clue?

I used to regularly go past the old factory site as a kid and had a couple of mates that lived in the nearby council properties.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 28 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

UnspeedySam wrote:

Sounds good! I really must have a go on an Enfield at some point. Although I have very little free time, so the level of reliability probably wouldn't work for me.


My EFI has proven the more reliable of my two bikes; although that's not saying much. I've not had any bother with it yet, though, touch wood.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Yes, Wipac rotor and 12v/120W stator.


I tell a lie. Now I have them off, it's a Wassell rotor and stator.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Here's why this is called a pre-unit engine. The primary drive is in a seperate piece as is the gearbox.

Here's the primary drive in all its glory. Fuckwit fitted the alternator. There is a missing set of spacers from the back of the stator and it has been bolted on so the rotor is physically touching/rubbing on the stator.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MN1u0vl823nksrjIJvPup4NzR_hdji_ZjSQVCDoPUa5HigNBsKhxgWV61kQzQCSTTHJNXwfC3lgHekjoJl_NZKfcNDZYxkWErt3umVLWPdUbQj6g1i-lLlUgLe3egeCpEz7fBWyyfg=w1178-h883-no

Fuckwit strikes again. I now see why the engine was so stiff to kick over. This primary chain tensioner has been JAMMED in there. The whole chain is singing like a harpstring and sawing into the tensioner blade.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ykrHTA5qkXwT3ky1_fnim4V-YikUpbOf1IheXoQkjD4-fQ_bRKAN1LAVQJX8IGyWL332dDmrjlTf_VzKNuQ1jMiGUxYrdRh_WOyUYGZhlYtv_IWhYIgDUQ_nAVs9lzQzWe6bPjgQdA=w1178-h883-no

The spacer (bottom left) for the clutch torque-arm is a total shambles too, about 6mm of free play. I'll need to get a new one made.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lCkKXLuBthr2ZFnupxt1u79JwSiMc5VZjXQZocsv97LJi1IMN2XlvbX6I0MfGNJaDHfHS0ZIbeyI7SwgG3ixlJuq3YEu9OiDiQWmj83slCb-6NYNBNBwpbVHcRF2NsZJhAaYhSZm_A=w1178-h883-no

Enfield clutches have three of each type of plate... I appear to have five. This is probably an aftermarket modification and should work in my favour.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lJEdps_Q41JJYksgwFZ3Hs5ir5ATAkq9iEd9Vt4Trbb2UbKu8Pt7g2OA5Ov91Q6N24_sPXF5Jhah34fAj8rlwk1obX6K0W-zErBLN6ZvGKmW8doYnD5QW1gsjRrea9YH0jk5IT8F0g=w1178-h883-no

This half of the chaincase looks like a standard early 90's bullet one with a hole drilled for the clutch cable.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iDkRqAdEG-31pCOUh0rQ8EhvQ3dRRJ3UseYIm3abJCM9FK6WI2dPCHCZjo87LW4puxO2zXg6R5XfGPL8qnGQd6LZ1RQRsnkNC7jrvzReUjyR3QzhB8SXrU8qUiQEa1jyOjNz4quPug=w1178-h883-no

Clutch backing plate is homebrewed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q8qC6j36FH_VZBpOJ5D-EsV2qsIBtgt0UJB86zZbq5wn42K0KzclFyQF1xkaEMr-AQjHN3lAqI5oxh43lUabTCjOCHmBWAoYt9DamOsQT29Bxs27qgolqPgbl_tG23fihNaS1B-gaQ=w1178-h883-no

Then another three bolts and you can remove the chaincase. Fuckwit strikes again. There should be a gasket/oil seal between the chaincase and the crankcase where the crank comes through. This motor would have PISSED primary drive lube as soon as it was started if I hadn't stripped it down.

For those interested. The sprocket you can see is the frinal drive sprocket (front sprocket). You have to remove the entire primary drive down to this point to change one which is why owners of brit bikes run them down to a nub before changing them out. I generally wait until it is physically jumping teeth. Also required the largest tube spanner in the whole world to get the nut off.

The shaft is actually two concentric shafts. The drive from the clutch goes up the middle one into the gearbox then the drive to the rear wheel comes back out along the outser shaft.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cRrN_UUd2sSqpQXTaLVclo8VsextQtLyt2XntVsHy7UnNPYvTMBTUuet-5zia3iWVjJpdlV1pylSvmnwz2t5ZtM46lJGuNBHRJBAxRkZmmQQl_GCxLL5N34qM4aRD_j4pCRvdlsTWg=w1178-h883-no

Now the gearbox. See those four nuts facing you?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x6mA4dvmErUXS3AbjuyXmPJcbZiFSHhpv3o75_aWtHqR-V312NFDxyEkOsR8T3yWn5QsEfb6cFA275fg8scCpjntSy1H5jdfJLSlLd2I5nLIg815x6i5pvyDGQ7_3Z4Z7Hg9lLMpxg=w1178-h883-no

Gearbox. Off.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MQj9WuzprXL6U-M-3D97_rYd3ETZBCMJOulpv68St02GXkWh-Fo5vTZOP8RnDR4gryQRwaCkSpT7ux_NctQ56WMBAwOWsFYZb2QVjp-Xxl7hmXlMOySs4VXoTVv6iwkWuYrx2jNHRw=w1178-h883-no

Gearbox filler bolt. Suggesting it's a 1950's, Reddich built one. I'm not sure if these are grease filled (and topped up with oil) like the Indian ones or sealed well enough to be oil-filled.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6Va3YpA8tdQ_dXbhM-ivKQXAe0JHXVO-4LjJvPyGQ30WeuZL2lldOwisyeoawQ2hcq_jNSVvcFHVqdlpodQzKlqs1MGeMXy2rmlsn3ZKGAEBycraLic1jXMhsZq1P2kb1dMpxfyuJA=w1178-h883-no

So. To summarise. Primary tansmission so far appears to be an early 90's chaincase with an aftermarket Wassell alternator. It has a modified early 90's clutch centre, a 90's clutch basket. An aftermarket 5 plate conversion and a late 1950's "scissor" pressure plate assembly. The outer cover is also off a late 1950's bike, probably a meteor minor 500 twin. Should be a hell of a clutch (for an enfield).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Eev4kO7S3xyeCHJoI6of47GGS0sUw4B3t3-ThFZXJL4Ik-8coO6CWM0i9sx0TSXnq1uBMJlXaY9_bJ7vDBURYIOU5T6WYzGtSodi60Tw0MSQBPNTf9yebNt6hpbhiQfr2mtQeanN7Q=w1178-h883-no
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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arry
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frankenstein's monster.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Frankenstein's monster.


True. But also impressive that parts from two bikes made in different hemispheres over 30 years apart can be bolted together like lego.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Timing chest. That's the oddly shaped covering on the right hand side where you'd find the clutch cover on a japanese bike. This contains the cams, followers and an utterly unecessary array of legacy mechanical apparatus to control the ignition timing. I find it one of the more aesthetically pleasing parts of the bike.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GcGGiOmUyO1IOBIefxHHTl-nodA7o9ROV5XtOhVMzwsZpnyYeufEza_bu1ixdLNleNacnRykKMHjcpDba5o5G-Ewbs7fXOEXpSNRvJHZstufgBwqXyRdDzHfXKIvFTIaV5vLmabYbA=w1178-h883-no

First remove the quill bolt. This picks up oil from the feed pump and directs it into the end of the crank through a couple of seals. This engine has synthetic seals around the quill bolt. Arguably, the old cork ones are better. I'll look into this when rebuilding.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yQ-zVyCrAng1B95ZZgD61zdIlTVpEhLPOn15yIKnc-s6T1FDawwx-q4li7b-ejXCDyJeEfY6l4VRgRQibkfw4Hhjg-zu4ZMnh2H1cpxipxVE4nHWwrvuASCmOblxtS7xGoZJlo-Pnw=w1178-h883-no

Timing chest removed. If Bullet engines have a weak point, this is it. There is a worm gear on the end of the crank which meshes with a gear on a shaft runing in the timing case casting. This is the oil pump spindle. it rotates and moves the two oil pump pistons up and down. Excessive load on the oil pumps can lead to it stripping the gears off this spindle and the oil pumps stopping. Catastrophe ensues.

Speaking of catastrophes. Look at all that instant gasket compound inside my fucking engine!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gPEh90Ld0B9wxJXuy5kJX_ksjqBSLJy13crUyUQOFS2J8XmiDF28hW71kFRUdyZA2gMAGTQrpWxlxXqB9WWme0KxCDNJLFf9CRF1sVJgKKfWfyclbjBsrcbmMp-M2qd4cBnBuQo5Qw=w1178-h883-no

Oil pump spindle itself. This one is in good nick. You should be able to rotate it by thumb pressure with the oil pumps in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PwhwbearOcSxf6lpb08MkmIvCkYIPspLpWwpWZAiwWUOETay1kvgL3mkIQbmkA58FVnXYmwgQpsDVQEtNuqWtT11jSMCt0leopxybG4r6LPKIdpSriRxTpjGwohb6_IXnydBxYAB6g=w1178-h883-no-

From the right to left. Exhaust cam; timing pinnion (on crank); Inlet cam; Idler; Idler; Distributor Pinnion. All have shims fitted on each side to reduce end-float and prevent rattling, worth remembering where these all are.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RvWi0SwB14uFQq4rcpxUpw8JT7CEQsqi6UqQGFUYqLrEpeGDaRaWge3UUMj2kArggYjFDDTRa7NsxTD-QIH56g27hg0adMbkAvKfdytodXOUNlDL0-JMmBU-llopP5job2MFcl1sxw=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oqTh3PWiggsjWu2etWdN-Ql29g6Q05Z3z7EmKSSJwiI-_K1CNCy2V7MSUCjkegMZhGqAsU3RIcNtos8-r-glxHRZr6dARuMNrfk90fSDKM9WRpTE0yKha4fIxHzHjOhFfacUmd2WPA=w663-h883-no

Ok. Now hands up to a wee slice of fail. Could have been disastrous but wasn't in the end. The exhaust cam wouldn't come off. I assumed it was binding on the shaft and horsed it off with a puller. It was actually fouling on the crankcase casting. Had I rotated it 90 degrees, it would have pulled off by hand without taking a lump of crankcase with it. Embarassed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dys36iRISA1rlV8KKsm0JGLNjkilkVlXO8xF8Esix50-Fui_iOFGiHuQXdK5XlltFjwTbT6c8LzwV233jw0TT1CK-xr2iNzM7t9YFKLNkugLqOTfumyDu4EdR4EFTgWYM1hknsl51w=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AE4v9miMjvNGQPdGgDtRnpbU8wvUiI7QgZANxUKv2_VoqNpCoYm3Mb1A0vxn_nKmCDlNVWUF8kp1QVW1liVxa7blMWwZZHzgMIA9zHJcTyH92SejivEZj4dgPIhrwauMH9hLzZs9Lg=w1178-h883-no

This isn't actually a disaster at all. That bit of casting is a redundant lip that is in no way load bearing. It also needs to be removed anyway and a reasonable chunk more of the casting in that area relieving with a burr in order to fit the cams I want It is however my queue to stop messing with bits of the engine I've never touched before for the day before I do some real damage!

I have however, had a dizzy off before. Remove this nut. Jam a bit of heavy rag between the teeth of the distributor pinnion and the idler next to it to stop it spinning.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkCg1QyNe-hxW2Prihv5pq5AhhBj9imjyDsUCLcjc_frlbcp6RsFwc1jEiAD74RvTkEpkir6pYphwfKYrhH1bNBiwdtqvtnRthV-XjmEPWVTVE96TRymMzmqz6hmgnlU_0REXX1zrw=w1178-h883-no

I'm too cheap to spend £25 on the proper puller for this. It isn't held on that tightly and if it breaks it costs a tenner less than the pulling tool to replace. I already have a 2-leg puller.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hPypWIghQ4iJFY1AGgSiqgBMiPEm9K1Ul2xC6WPLy0LktYRY--dWca14ZD-0crauKnAj07e1_yVs9IcoG-N8lLplYv-p3nnSXjA4LZPw5wNutEYFHee_PWa2EWa2SjWa7k_3wjgKGw=w1178-h883-no

Then undo those three set screws.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dg6pOxKQ6dBFnzOr3wsavEg4ZJRpHn0MsaAkLQMkaUWMutz4_ZBcWax4TvcC27CnTqT8VAiZ8BZQz1ZmHmJrJvAxGG97ClHHScm0ypV6DaRXW4Ac0tRiry8X0SJAHtlycGRWRob4Yg=w1178-h883-no

And you can remove the distributor. The reason for the whole load of gears and distributor being fitted to a single cylinder bike (you'd normally have the points on the end of the crank in the vicinity of the alternator in a 4-stroke single like this) is because it originally had a gear driven magneto fitted where there is now a distributor. The engine design is THAT old.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qF9jorFadwXVIlzw-vKNKc7YyTojpP6vo3q9Vy8q2Bq5Su8wazpyqPj9f7hAkLWIFUSmBipWtEaBZ3xzWaUHHA7XFHSJNMmYlFPwCk8VaexR-8Cpxn46urBGbg-eXvSsmodjHGn3mw=w663-h883-no

Trouble is, the distributor casting is rough as arseholes. Pretty sure it's made from a mix of elephant dung and molten coke cans and cast in a childs sandpit that the cat has been using for a toilet. The fitted with cast iron bushes and a grease nipple (the oil doesn't get up this far reliably). I'm toying with the idea of getting a mate of mine to turn me up a billet one with bronze bushes, there isn't a whole lot to it.

It wasn't strictly necessary to take this off but even if I decide to re-use it, I want to fiddle with the bush position to reduce the end float on the shaft (which is substantial and can interfere with the auto-advance if it moves too far). I'll also releive the casting around the auto advance which, even without looking, I know is rough and burred enough to foul a weight on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tNtam7qBBx0NRFulnwjqMpV0HniqpZnPF17agXnW6LFS0OzhdcWylObK28QxcP67R0uqnoFLcRcnUm1fIVdRbdgSS6qV-0wYaYH9fQpQF78rDhsPnWabrVL5cJSvJeoLpVyBmt6Myw=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uugfbVMRbYC0vWd-gtCs8PrrW2KqjvOT_qE6ZN7fH_9JF1S9GT_VVJy0C7kGdhmzSEqdMiPQyCofme58yAEJqM4ffwfAB0ACiz7BUIrUW0DaVuDn6RBun1rFX-qy6ZD7aI6dZlxtzw=w1178-h883-no


Next job is to remove the timing pinnion with needs a clearer head than I currently have and possibly a special tool. I may refit a cam to do the jamming a rag in the teeth trick. Then I can split it and see what sort of crank I have.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Paddy.
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 30 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you said cheap, I didn't expect £650...

Is that actually cheap? I'm not an old bike person so this seems like a shit heap for good bike money Shocked
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 30 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
When you said cheap, I didn't expect £650...

Is that actually cheap? I'm not an old bike person so this seems like a shit heap for good bike money Shocked


You'd struggle to find a pre-unit bullet of any sort for less than £1600 at the moment. Even hipster riddled shit heaps (like this was on its way to being).

I was following a fucked engine on ebay not so long ago. A tatty, "vanilla" late Indian 500, missing the primary drive cover, clutch and alternator. It went for more than £600!

As it happens, there are some tasty bits which have made the deal much better. For one thing, I won't have to splurge an inordinate amount of money on an aftermarket clutch. That, combined with the alternator upgrade, pretty much covers the purchase price.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 31 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are hoping to hop up to mid-70's 500-multi sort of power, any real reason for keeping the dizzy rather than going black-box for sparks?

Especially as hint at using some rather lumpy bump-sticks would suggest setting it up after, could take a lot of bob-weights and carb-jets....

I'd be tempted for the fun, to DIY a Mega-Jolt or Mega-Squirt black-box from kit or components, for the fun of, and ease of setting up on a modded motor... but then, I've also been tempted to try using an old Land-Rover transmission brake and an RSJ to make a balance beam bench dyno for small engines!!! (Not got round to that one ether!)
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