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[Plumbing] Replacing mixer taps in kitchen

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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 27 Aug 2017    Post subject: [Plumbing] Replacing mixer taps in kitchen Reply with quote

Our cold water tap on our mixer (seperate taps on one unit) has broken.

So just bought a new mixer tap from screwfix, went to fit it an the fittings look nothing alike?

old taps, go straight to copper pipe?

new taps go via flexi pipe?

what do's?
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 27 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

after looking at my own photo, if i was to cut the pipes then fit a few of these on

https://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358

then i could screw the flexi's to these couldnt i?

i can see cutting the pipes to be a bit of an issue though
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 27 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those two copper doofurs will unscrew from your existing mixer. (The Hex will unscrew from the underside of the mixer body.)

You need to buy two 15mm fittings c/w Nuts and Olives.

Cut the two doofers off above where they have been sweated onto the hot/cold supply.

Wire wool the top 20mm of the supply.

Fit your straight 15mm fitting over the cleaned end.

Nip the nut tight onto the fitting. (You do not need to go mental the brass olive is soft.)

Remove the nut and olive from the other end of your straight fitting.

Install your flex hose nut over the fitting.


Edit:
Buy a wee pipe cutter. Cheap as chips.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-automatic-pipe-cutter-15mm/12468

Edit II

You have to turn your water off at the mains and isolate your hot water supply at the hot cylinder or boiler.

You will then have to open all your taps and let the water drain.
It could take ten minutes to drain down.


Then you may have to go here to get your hot running again. Smile

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/drained-cold-water-tank-no-water-to-taps-now.255388/
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Ste
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 27 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to turn the water off and drain it all.

Using some freeze spray on the pipes is much easier and the excitement of getting it all done before the ice melts is much more adrenaline filled then the boring option of turning the water off.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cut the pipes.

Put on these

Then fit flex pipes to those and screw the flex pipes to the tap. (Note you may have screw the pipes to the tap first as depending on the tap fitment only the valve end spins freely.)

Sack off Screwfix and go to your local plumbing merchant, you can walk in there with the tap tell them what you want to and they will get the bits, and you can check in in the shop to see how it all fits together and ensure you have the right bits. I bet it will be noticeably cheaper too.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Cut the pipes.

Put on these

Then fit flex pipes to those and screw the flex pipes to the tap. (Note you may have screw the pipes to the tap first as depending on the tap fitment only the valve end spins freely.)

Sack off Screwfix and go to your local plumbing merchant, you can walk in there with the tap tell them what you want to and they will get the bits, and you can check in in the shop to see how it all fits together and ensure you have the right bits. I bet it will be noticeably cheaper too.


This is correct.
Regulations require isolation to be installed.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP, please can you provide the Screwfix link for your new tap and preferably a photo of its connections?
MCN wrote:
Buy a wee pipe cutter. Cheap as chips.

Definitely - don't even consider grovelling around behind that sink with a hacksaw
chris-red wrote:
Put on these
Then fit flex pipes to those and screw the flex pipes to the tap.

Bzzt! Unlikely that the flexi pipes will connect direct to the isolation valve - a short length of copper would most likely be needed between them; but there are better options; let's see what the OP's connections are before guessing though.
MCN wrote:
Regulations require isolation to be installed.

Um, nope. But definitely a very good idea to to do so anyway. That said, there appears to be one of those nasty self-plumbing washing machine valves on the incoming cold pipe, so unless that gets moved/replaced (also a good idea!) the OP may well be a bit stuck for space working under there, especially given his level of experience.

Ste wrote:
You don't need to turn the water off and drain it all. Using some freeze spray on the pipes is much easier and the excitement of getting it all done before the ice melts is much more adrenaline filled then the boring option of turning the water off.

Meh! Freeze spray is for wimps (only kidding, OP!)
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

slight update

hit a snag, the pipes that come from the bottom of the new taps are way to long to under my sink. looking at the picture i posted the legs would easily go past the soldered "T junction" at the bottom of the picture

then i would need to fit isolator valves aswell as the flexis to the supplier. how much room to peeps have under their sinks?!


Taps

https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-fresco-deck-sink-mono-mixer-kitchen-tap-chrome/21923
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can we see a photo of...
mudcow007 wrote:
...the pipes that come from the bottom of the new taps

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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
slight update

hit a snag, the pipes that come from the bottom of the new taps are way to long to under my sink. looking at the picture i posted the legs would easily go past the soldered "T junction" at the bottom of the picture

then i would need to fit isolator valves aswell as the flexis to the supplier. how much room to peeps have under their sinks?!


Taps

https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-fresco-deck-sink-mono-mixer-kitchen-tap-chrome/21923


If you mean the legs which are 'tails' then those normally can be removed from the underside of the valve where the horseshoe clamp is fitted.

10mm or 12mm A/F I think. Smile

Then your new flex hoses will screw in. There should be an o-ring seal for each flex hose. Do not make them too tight. The seal seals not the tension on the threads.

Batman is correct, isolation is not required to internal outlets but it make sense to fit now as service later will be simpler.
(Isolation and back-flow protection is the regulation for outside outlets I confused with. ) I am not a plumber, I'm a Plumber's son. Smile

And regulation states that: All plumbing work by non-pros must fcuk up a little or it is not done properly. Embarassed
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Ste
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 29 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you've had to waste time on plumbing where someone else decided to save a little bit of time and money by not fitting isolator valves, you'll appreciate how useful they are. Laughing

On a similar topic... push fittings! Just don't!! Laughing
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 30 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
If you mean the legs which are 'tails' then those normally can be removed from the underside of the valve where the horseshoe clamp is fitted.
10mm or 12mm A/F I think. Smile
Then your new flex hoses will screw in.

Yes, assuming the tap has M10 or M12 screw-in tails, I'd suggest replacing them with: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GU89A60 which provide for built-in isolation valves at no extra effort/complication.

However, there's a 'but' which nobody else has mentioned, and that's the electrical clamps on the pipe(s) - one of which has been disconnected. You can't tell from the photo whether the green/yellow cable is main earth bonding (ie, if we're looking at the incoming water main) or supplementary bonding. I'm not up on the regs these days, but I think supplementary bonding is no longer required (since 17th edition, anyone?) whereas main bonding certainly still is and would be dangerous to lose. However I'm not proffering advice on that as I don't know the definite answer other than it's certainly important from a safety viewpoint! But I can categorically say that the clamp should not be affixed to a metal flexi pipe.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 30 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will take photos of the mess that is my under-sink tonight

cheers chaps Thumbs Up
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