Garage Advice : Replace or Keep

[TheSmiler]

I'm waiting for the keys on my new house in the meantime I'm getting quotes of work that I want doing when I move in so I know how much I need to save up. Now the house I'm getting has a 17x10ft garage however it is pre fabricated and has an asbestos roof with a solid concrete floor. Now the door will need replacing and so will the front surround. The problem is though it currently doesn't have any electric. Not good when I'm planning on working on the bike in there.

Now I've priced up a new roof and to remove the asbestos roof at £2500 or there about. Electrics to the garage I can't get a quote till I move in. Also priced up a new garage door at £900 from a friend that works for a company that makes them.

However here is the dilemma I want to spend more time in there in the winter so make it warmer and secure. This house is going to be for quite a few years so don't want to make the wrong decisions.

So I'm stuck with 3 decisions

1: Stick with it get electric hooked up to the garage ?

2. Put electric to the garage replace the garage door then replace the garage in the future.

3. Don't bother with electric, make do and then remove and get new garage built.

BCF I'm at your mercy would love some helpful advice on this.
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[Polarbear]

Is it certain it needs replacing? If it's dry inside why bother. just get the electrics fitted and a new door. Even the roof, if it doesn't leak, why replace it?

There is a lot of utter shit flying around about asbestos. 'Ohh, must replace, it's asbestos'. Well, not necessarily. Asbestos lagging, yes. Compressed asbestos fibre in panels is fine as long as you don't cut it and create dust.

That said, if you want something nice and new, just use a long extension reel for now for power until you get your new garage built with all mod cons.
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[TheSmiler]

[grr666]

[MarJay]

Do everything in stages. Don't put the cart before the horse. You've just bought a house, you're not going to be able to afford to replace large portions of the building immediately.

Here's what I would do (and approximate timescales)

Immediately
1.) Use an extension lead from the house until such time as I can put in an electricity hookup from the house.

When I can be arsed
2.) Bury armoured cable in the gap between the garage and the house, and have it come up into a waterproof junction box on the garage wall. That way if you do build a new garage you can simply re-use the existing connection. Shore up the existing door as best you can, as you probably won't be able to re-use a door you buy to replace it when you get to step 3 as the garage entrances may be different sizes.

When I can afford it
3.) arrange for a new garage to be built from brick, with a window, re using existing electrical hookup and with a brand new super secure roller door (saves space).
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[Raffles]

[TheSmiler]

Thank you for the replies everyone. Here is an image of the current garage from the side. I'll see about running a cable when I get it does sound like the best thing to do for the moment. There is a gap for drainage down the back and sides. The estate agents still haven't got a key for the garage so it looks like a locksmith is going to be needed and door replacing either way.

@grr666; you are more than welcome to come over to the house when it's in my posession and set up. Regarding the Asbestos I know it's not as scary as people make out. But I will get get someone else to take it away anyway once replaced. One because I'm accident prone due to the Dyspraxia and two my soon to be new old car won't have a big enough boot.


https://i.imgur.com/YNRR3ot.png

[grr666]

Cool, it's up to you to hunt down a primo burger joint. I'll only be down for a week while I do my renovation.
OMG grill looks decent though. Failing that theres a branch of the Gourmet Burger Kitchen in town. As I said,
it'll be on me so whatever takes your fancy. I know you like a good burger.
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Ste wrote: Avatars are fine, it's signatures that need turning off.

[ocatoro]

the locksmith isn't going to open the door with a wrecking ball, you know.. ?

he'll just remove the lock barrel. which will solve your key and warped barrel issue, he'll then fit a new barrel and supply you with a key for it. no new door required from what you've said.

also, forgive me if i'm wrong. but isn't asbestos only an issue from long term, repeated exposure? like people working with it for 30+ years, like miners getting shagged lungs isn't the same thing as using a bit of coal to make a fire in your house.
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[Pete.]

[TheSmiler]

[Polarbear]

[ZebraDriver]

How do you know the roof is asbestos? I have a similar type of garage, built two years ago, its roofed with corrugated concrete panels.

[Pete.]

[Nobby the Bastard]

I agree with the 'temporary power rigged up with an extension lead.' There's no reason why you can't screw strip lights to the wall/ceiling and still have a plug on the end to plug them in to the extension lead.

You could even put a proper switch on the wall for them. When you put in an armoured cable underground, you could just put a junction box approximately when your plug would have been and then just hard wire instead.

I did a similar thing in my loft with a strip light wired to a twin plug socket.

https://i.imgur.com/7JAOW9R.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GKOPsks.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xFevZui.jpg
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Sprint ST 1050

[Diggs]

I don't know if this fits your situation, but garage door locks like yours can often be undone using a spam-key. Yours looks similar to mine, and my kids can open it in seconds this way... If I were in your position I'd consider something like this in the short term.... https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/squire-high-security-garage-door-defender-156965?vat=1&shopping=true&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20%3E%20Locks,%20Latches%20%26%20Security%20%3E%20Padlocks%20Chains%20%26%20Security%20Devices&utm_term=4580496722179207&utm_content=156965%20-%20Squire%20High%20Security%20Garage%20Door%20Defender&gclid=CPHawJX7iNYCFZIFGwod05QMnA&gclsrc=ds
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[Robby]

If it was me, I'd be getting rid of the asbestos roof. I would want to put in some overhead tube lights, and that means drilling into the ceiling to fit them. Also, you'll be getting rid of the asbestos sooner or later, which means you need to have the garage empty. Best to do it before you start filling it with crap.

As for electricity, I don't have any in my garage. I have a leisure battery, and a generator. The leisure battery runs the lights, which are 12v LED strip lights, sold on ebay for caravans. Cost about a tenner each. It also powers an inverter for low power things like my ultrasonic cleaner. The generator is only used for the welder and compressor. You don't need 240v very often.

Sort the roof. Everything else can wait. Do the power and door together, so you can have an electric door.

Get the electrics done by an electrician. Maybe dig the trench for the cable yourself, but let a professional handle the rest of it. Not just for your safety, but you'll be displeased if you burn down your own garage and bikes over some shoddy wiring. Even more displeased when the insurance don't pay out because it was your own shoddy wiring.

Other garage pro-tips from my experience of a council lockup:
1. Ventilation. Make sure it has some. You wouldn't believe how wet they get.
2. Insulation. Nice to have if you're doing a garage project.
3. Flooring. Garage floor paint is great stuff. It means your concrete floor won't generate tonnes of dust. Interlocking rubber tiles on top are even better, but pricey.
4. Shelving. The sort they use in small warehouses, fixed to the wall so it can't fall over. You will end up keeping all kinds of crap on it.
5. Ground anchor. If your concrete is anything like mine, you'll blunt a lot of drill bits fitting it, but it's worth having.

[TheSmiler]

[331X2]

Congrats on the buy.

When I removed the asbestos (type?) roofing sheets from the garage at my old house I was told to double bag them in sturdy rubble sacks and took them to the Veolia transfer station in Nottingham FOC. Regardless of if they're asbestos or not they will be treated as such by any waste disposal place even if you have them tested

Extension lead from the house means that you can safely and legally DIY, I ran my old garage like that for a couple of years before dragging services to it.

The front of mine was completely rotten too, if I was in that position again I would look to have a completely new front made from solid timber with two side hinged doors that can be bolted securely.

If you go for metal roof sheets then allow for anti condensation coating at the very least, preferably insulation. When the weather gets damp/cold it gets like a rainforest inside with plain metal sheeting.

[MCN]

I bought a pre-fab garage and have electric in too.

It was a bit cold in winter so I hummed and hawed about what to insulate with.
Some people swear that Plywood is easy.

It is very expensive when compared to Gyproc.

I got Insulated Gyproc from Rowan Timber to do my garage.

I planned to Dot-and-Dab the sheets to the walls. Very simply DIY job as it doesn't need to be Show House standard.
The issue was the pre-fab panels are not flat. They have flanges to allow them to bolt together.
The real way would have been to rock-bolt wooden batons to the pre-fab panels then nail the Gyproc to the batons.

Un-daunted by this mere detail I battered on. I applied the adhesive to the faces of the flanges and offered up my first board.
It would not stick.
The adhesive doesn't stick to polystyrene
I resorted to pilot drilling the boards through into the pre-fab panel flanges.
Drilling the pilot holes to the rawl-plug size and rawl plugging the boards to the wall.
It was worth the effort as my garage now heats up within a few minutes after I turn the calor fire on.

If you are going to run power then buy your Armour Cable now and run the power through that.

Later an electrician can use spare a space in your house consumer unit for a low current breaker to feed the garage . Then feed the garage through another small consumer unit.
If you trip a breaker in the garage then you only affect the garage and not the house.
And supplying a small consumer unit lets you split the power. You can have lights on one circuit and sockets on another.
One supply for all can mean having to feel your way out a darkened Trip Hazard Zone in the dark if you blow a fuse.
And if the telly goes off during GOT there will be hell to pay.

It sounds like a lot but it's relatively simple.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[chris-red]

As for power you can do something Semi Permanent.

Get an External Socket...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-with-outboard-rocker/30139

This is water proof even with things plugged in. I'd recommend anyone get one as they are dead easy to install and really handy.

You can mount that easily on the other side of an internal socket (take of the socket off Drill through the wall through the back box and run a spur through the wall to external socket.

In the garage you can run sockets lights etc. If you then get a length of cable and plug the external socket into the garage. Either run it with decent cable outdoor cable and clip it out the way and have it always there or simply plug in when you need too.

Obviously this isn't 'proper' and I wouldn't run anything heavy duty off of it the hole garage will be on a max 13A fuse anyway but it is a bit better then just running an extension lead. If you to a 'proper' job the lights/ plug sockets you should then be able to easily adapt when it is done 'properly'.
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[CaNsA]

https://i.imgur.com/WrNDYcvl.png

[Minty]

£2500 or a replacement roof sounds expensive. I've just had a quote for the same amount to remove asbestos roof, replace facias and install a sheet steel roof and that is on a double garage and is being done by the manufacturer of the garage.

You could remove the roof yourself (get a mate/employ someone of questionable background) to remove it and bag it and the council will take it away. Then just pay for the new panels to be fitted.

From my council website:
The Hazardous Waste Service will collect up to 15 square metres of asbestos sheeting free of charge. This waste must be wrapped individually in thick polythene sheeting. Do not break the sheets to put into bags.
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My fingers smell of your mum.

[J4mes]

Just take it off yourself,

disposable gloves/coveralls/suitable masks, cheap wellies (or boot covers), run the hose over each board before you disturb it, pass it down to a mate and bag it up.

As a last job, hose yourself down, strip off and bag your disposables up in the same way.

mask and gloves off last.

[pompousporcup...]