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Shed - How do insulate plz

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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Shed - How do insulate plz Reply with quote

How do BCF.

I've just had a big wooden shed built. I know, I know; minus man points for not building it myself.

It's timber, got a roller shutter door on the front, a side door and an apex roof. 10 x 16 ft.

I want to insulate that badboy.

The "big" gap between the roller door and the front of the shed should be filled somehow, any tips? I can add photos if it's not clear?

Onto the roof, it's onduline sheet things over MDF boards. There's air gaps at the ends of the sheets, with guttering and stuff to catch the run off. What would be the best way to "seal" that while maintaining ventilation?

Those two points are probably best to attack first. Then there's the concrete floor and the walls.

For the walls, supposedly you can use vapour barriers against the timber then attach the insulation, then board over that, any recommendations on those materials?

Floor, well it's unsealed concrete right now but I'm thinking of just getting some plastic tiles to withstand stands and any oil drips etc but recommendations again welcome.

https://i.imgur.com/kVd6QES.jpg
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doggone
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just making a second skin inside would improve things. Kingspan style sheets are the best but pricey.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Just making a second skin inside would improve things. Kingspan style sheets are the best but pricey.

+1
I bought mine as seconds quality a few years ago, delivered from https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/. Saved a load on the local cost
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your shed is good.....you twat!
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Just making a second skin inside would improve things. Kingspan style sheets are the best but pricey.


This ^
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Bozzy.
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Your shed is good.....you twat!


I think "timber garage" would describe what DrSnoosnoo has more accurately Laughing
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have a look at that seconds website.

So a good start could be to just ply the inside to give me an air gap for insulation? I'm eventually going to put in a small coal stove aswell so would like to make this insulation keep that heat in quite well.

Has anybody used these plastic barrier sheeting? I mean if it's a case of any old sheeting, I have my own 5 storey PVC calender at work so I can knock some up but if it's special as to allow moisture through I'll have to buy some "proper" stuff.

Quite enjoying my Timber Garage. Especially if it makes HT envious Smile
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Marmalade
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My shed has roof insulation in between the wall and roof studs and then ply-board covering the whole interior.

The doors are glass panels so i've put some old curtains up, spaced with baton and put some sheet mdf over the curtains.

It looks from the outside like a summerhouse with curtains, but the doors are solid.

No condensation or frost,
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

just build a smaller shed inside it Thumbs Up
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then you need a few crates beer and a Barbie before the weather changes Very Happy
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marmalade wrote:
My shed has roof insulation in between the wall and roof studs and then ply-board covering the whole interior.

I've done that job myself on (non-timber) buildings - thick insulation boards in between each of the studs, followed by covering the whole area with large sheets of composite plasterboard backed with a thinner layer of insulation. One important feature of that was to ensure that there was definitely a reasonable air gap between the external brickwork/roof tiles and the insulation boards, to avoid condensation build-up between them. Sometimes I had to attach timber battens over the length of the vertical studs in order to provide enough depth between the studs to get an adequate thickness of insulation in there, along with the air gap. I honestly don't know whether there a similar air gap requirements for a timber building like this.

Guessing the OP didn't install ground insulation before pouring the concrete base!? An awful lot of heat is lost that way too.

DrSnoosnoo wrote:
I'm eventually going to put in a small coal stove

That's ringing alarm bells - naked flames in a bike garage; consider potential poisoning by carbon monoxide? FWIW you also need building regs approval to install one in a house; I don't know if that applies to a garage but if it does I strongly suspect they'd just say 'no way!' if you applied. I also suspect you'd struggle to find an insurance policy that would cover the bike and other garage contents.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrSnoosnoo wrote:
I'll have a look at that seconds website.

So a good start could be to just ply the inside to give me an air gap for insulation? I'm eventually going to put in a small coal stove aswell so would like to make this insulation keep that heat in quite well.

Has anybody used these plastic barrier sheeting? I mean if it's a case of any old sheeting, I have my own 5 storey PVC calender at work so I can knock some up but if it's special as to allow moisture through I'll have to buy some "proper" stuff.

Quite enjoying my Timber Garage. Especially if it makes HT envious Smile


I drilled 1 inch holes through the bottom panels on the back wall of my pre fad
B garage and fitted fancy lucre style vents at the top apex.

For the place to stay dry one must ensure It is ventilated.

Insulate to keep your heat in and ventilate to allow moisture out.
And carbon fuels will add maisturento then space as they burn.

Coal, gas, oil, etc.

As I said plywood is feckin expensive when compared to gyproc type platter boards. And you can sometime find Rockwool on special in places wot sell it.

It will not be a cheap adventure but the rewards in the bleak mid winter are awsumness.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
maisturento


Is that a type of Covfefe?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:


DrSnoosnoo wrote:
I'm eventually going to put in a small coal stove

That's ringing alarm bells - naked flames in a bike garage; consider potential poisoning by carbon monoxide?

Not really, you'd have a chimney and a small closed stove is less risky than say a portable gas heater.It would be a very small model such as used in canal boats or caravans.
For a small well insulated shed a low wattage electric convector to keep it drier in depths of winter and perhaps a small fan heater for quick boost when actually in there would be better.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd use a decent oil filled electric rad or two. My outbuilding will be starting construction soon, that's what I'll have
out there when I do the interior. Hard wired in on a couple of timer/switched spurs. I have one in my downstairs
loo at the moment and it's not missed a beat in 6 years.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went "ghetto" an lined mine with MDF boards an in the gap filled it with laminate flooring underlay (3mm foam?). it now holds heat alot better but could prob do with better vents

I have a panal heater on the wall, with it on full pelt it gets too warm to work in their - in the depths of winter

I used lino on the floor too, makes oil spills easy to clean up an softer on the ole knees
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Snoo; G'day.

If I had money to put into that lovely cavernous box of awesome, I would put it into security first. Like, make that shit Fort Knox x 9000.
Or within said box, put a damn secure ground anchor for the bike to be attached to.

As for insulation; i'd be buying 2" thick sheets of foam board. Or similar. Maybe use "candy floss insulation" in the frame gaps and then add in inner skin. Something like that.

Add in a sweet ass heating system and you've got yourself a mancave/annex for you to do all the drunken passing out in you want!!! Mr. Green Mr. Green
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sensi5446
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 23 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used 1 inch celotex on the floor covered with osb3 boards and 2 inch on the walls and ceiling covered in osb2.

I left 2 inch gap between the wall/ceiling and the insulation. I have air gaps along the length of the roof on both sides where the roof overhangs the walls so there is plenty of air flow between the roof and the insulation.

For heating I use a low watt tube heater for background heat, keeps the shed above 4c in the winter, no need to run 9 months of the year.

My sheds 12 x 16
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 24 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:

That's ringing alarm bells - naked flames in a bike garage; consider potential poisoning by carbon monoxide? FWIW you also need building regs approval to install one in a house; I don't know if that applies to a garage but if it does I strongly suspect they'd just say 'no way!' if you applied. I also suspect you'd struggle to find an insurance policy that would cover the bike and other garage contents.


You can get double walled flue to pass through wooden structures. As long as the stove stands on a decent hearth and has the required clearance around it, it's no more dangerous than fitting one in a house. I suspect that the HETAS requirements wouldn't apply to a shed.

ETA

Also carbon monoxide alarms are cheap and readily available.
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Rogue_Shadow
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 24 Sep 2017    Post subject: Re: Shed - How do insulate plz Reply with quote

DrSnoosnoo wrote:


Shed envy intensifies !

Evil or Very Mad

I have to squeeze my bike into a 6X8 Crying or Very sad
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies everyone. Haven't been too internet active this weekend.

I do have a ground anchor, it was put in when the base was being made, you can't see it in the picture because it's to the front left of the picture, hiding behind the wall.

I was stupid really, didn't get myself organised so I didn't lay an electrickery cable.
This is probably aimed at Grrrrrrrr because he's a builder/man. What type of cable would I need if I wanted to run a cable alongside the wall at the side of the house and then bridge it from the shed eaves to the kitchen extension. The span is about 5/600 mm. I have another photo I can put up to show the gap better.

I was considering a very small coal stove, with sufficiently insulated flue with protection for the wooden walls around it but I'll probably chuck the idea if I get power sorted.

I don't really want to put a floor on, I want to be able to drive into it with the car, only either end so I can do bits on that in the dry too, if the mood takes me.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
MCN wrote:
maisturento


Is that a type of Covfefe?


Google it, there's only one hit! Laughing
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grr666
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you've spent decent money so far, you may as well have it done right. So get a sparks in and get some
armoured core cable run to your fuse board indoors then the run buried and fed up into your structure rather than
doing something temporary. If you have a separate breaker board/ consumer unit inside the structure then it
can have separate circuits for lighting and power.

It's an expense I will be having myself soon. Currently Cool my shed has a temporary power supply but I've been waiting
for an opportune moment to spend the dough and since the back garden is going to be like the somme anyway while
the new builds is in progress, it seems a good time to power up the shed properly. The power supply I will be having
put in will split so it can run both my shed and her pole studio. I'd also like some lighting in the back garden when I've finished
making it look decent again. You can DIY this relatively simply, but the work will still need signing off. Sometimes it's better
to get someone in, luckily I have a tame sparks at my disposal so it shouldn't cost too much. You could save money by
running/hiding the cable yourself and just getting someone in to connect it up.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Since you've spent decent money so far, you may as well have it done right. So get a sparks in and get some
armoured core cable run to your fuse board indoors then the run buried and fed up into your structure rather than
doing something temporary. If you have a separate breaker board/ consumer unit inside the structure then it
can have separate circuits for lighting and power.

It's an expense I will be having myself soon. Currently Cool my shed has a temporary power supply but I've been waiting
for an opportune moment to spend the dough and since the back garden is going to be like the somme anyway while
the new builds is in progress, it seems a good time to power up the shed properly. The power supply I will be having
put in will split so it can run both my shed and her pole studio. I'd also like some lighting in the back garden when I've finished
making it look decent again. You can DIY this relatively simply, but the work will still need signing off. Sometimes it's better
to get someone in, luckily I have a tame sparks at my disposal so it shouldn't cost too much. You could save money by
running/hiding the cable yourself and just getting someone in to connect it up.
Bolded for emphasis. This will bite you HARD in the bum if you don't do it and you ever try to sell your house...
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DRZ4Hunned
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I wired my shed, I considered burying cable but in the end I didn't think it was worth the cost or hassle.

I wired up the inside of the shed with a small 2 breaker consumer unit, one circuit for lights and one circuit for sockets. I then ran some arctic cable with a standard plug on the end from an external waterproof socket on the house to the shed, drilled a hole in the shed and wired it into the consumer unit.

Wasn't particularly hard but it was certainly satisfying. Worse case scenario is you'll blow a fuse or trip a breaker in the house. Thumbs Up
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