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Advice needed - taking my GPZ9's wheels off

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Ninja
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Advice needed - taking my GPZ9's wheels off Reply with quote

Hi - the GPZ needs a new set of tyres so I want to take the wheels off the bike to take them to the tyre place (also using the exercise to get used to spannering on the bike).
I would probably be able to do this easily enough, but have never taken the wheels off a bike before - as I don't have a workshop manual yet would anybody be able to give me some basic instructions? I'd appreciate it - especially if there's any specific things you have to do with the eccentric-cam adjusters on the rear.

Cheers in advance Thumbs Up
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4 wheels transport the Body ... 2 wheels transport the SOUL
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Big Pete
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Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

get a manual (ebay is a good source) otherwise when you put it back together you will be pissing about for ages working out which spacer goes where.
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NickD
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you take each wheel off, make a diagram of each spindle. Number each spacer with a small marker pen, and write the number in the correct place on the diagram. Then when the wheel goes back on, just follow the diagram. Also when the wheel is off, put the spacers, in the correct order on the spindle, you're a lot less likely to lose them this way.
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you guys Thumbs Up

@Big Pete - nowhere seems to stock the GPZ900R (or derivatives) manual and the tyres arrive tomorrow . . .
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James
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

hoho - I don't suppose anyone has torque settings available?
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ninja wrote:
...nowhere seems to stock the GPZ900R (or derivatives) manual...

Maybe this link will be useful if you want to get a manual for any future work.

HTH Smile
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha - cheers - I saw it earlier as I looked for a manual - I wonder if he'd take offence if I asked him to 'demonstrate' it works by emailing me copies of the relevant pages and torque settings . . . Laughing
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Big Pete
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Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try your local library for a manual, mine has loads, old and new. If you want to get some spannering practice (from which I assume your don`t do much now) you are going to need a decent manual sooner or later.
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NickD
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

There also a guy on ebay known as 'Ficheman'. Who sells the microfice for most models, on disc. I bought one for mine and it's pretty good.
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 07 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Library! - Genius! - The most overlooked resource of the day/ week/ month/ year . . .

I'm happy to do any kind of work really and think I'm competent enough; I just don't want any dodgy surprises as 'quirky' bits spring apart in my hand . . . Wink . . . or find that I've been resolutely trying my hardest to tighten a reverse thread bolt.

Ta
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James
4 wheels transport the Body ... 2 wheels transport the SOUL


Last edited by Ninja on 08:57 - 09 Sep 2004; edited 1 time in total
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 03:30 - 08 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming bike is on the main stand:
Loosen the eccentric pinch bolts
Rotate the eccentrics forwards to get max slack in the chain
Re-tighten pinch bolts
Stick some wood under the wheel so the tire is just touching it.
Remove chain guard
Lift chain off rear sprocket & move it over to the left
Remove the axle nut (should be on the right side)
Slide the axle out
Pull wheel backwards
remove the spacers on each side of the wheel & remember where they go.....
& then wander off to tire shop



& to quote Kawasaki: "Assembley is the reverse of disassembley"

If ya have a washer left over you failed the test.......

.. it goes under the axle nut on the right side.

any questions? Smile
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 07:56 - 08 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
any questions? Smile

haha - just a couple . . . I gave up as I couldn't quickly figure the rear after slackening the pinch bolts and trying to rotate the cams/ eccentrics and also found I would need a second hex socket/ allen key to take the front off, which I don't have.

ZRX61 wrote:
Rotate the eccentrics forwards to get max slack in the chain

OK, but does the rear caliper bracket have to be loosened to allow the movement?

ZRX61 wrote:
Remove the axle nut (should be on the right side)

Now I'm a little confused - the spindle (axle) looks like it might be secured with a hex-head bolt on each side?

ZRX61 wrote:
Slide the axle out

Hammer and drift required?

Thumbs Up cheers for the info
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 08 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ninja wrote:
. . . I gave up as I couldn't quickly figure the rear after slackening the pinch bolts and trying to rotate the cams/ eccentrics and also found I would need a second hex socket/ allen key to take the front off, which I don't have.

but does the rear caliper bracket have to be loosened to allow the movement?

Now I'm a little confused - the spindle (axle) looks like it might be secured with a hex-head bolt on each side?

Hammer and drift required?

Thumbs Up cheers for the info


The front should be 17mm which is the same as a VW oil pan drain plug. Halfords should have one.. failing that.. the 3/8 drive one from Snap-On costs about $13.00. Leave the other (larger, 22mm?) side pinch bolts tight until ya get the nut off (which should be on the left side).

You can finagle the caliper etc out of the way, drop something between the pads to hold em apart until you get the edge of the rear brake rotor in for ease of assembley.

The rear spindle nut is also a hex head, the smaller of the 2 is the actual spinle, the larger one is the nut.

Brass drift is needed soemtimes, I usually just push the spindle out with the ratchet handle. Be sure to grease both spindles before ya put em back in & clean any corrosion off em also.

The reason ya need a bit of wood that *just touches* the rear tire is because the new tire will be taller & ya won't have to worry about supporting the weight of the wheel etc as ya put the spindle back in..

& make sure ya correctly install the spacer inside the cush drive housing. It fits either way, but one way is wrong.... (thats the bit that fell out as you were pulling the wheel out.... narrow at both ends with a ridge slightly off center)

So ya need a 8mm allen for the pinch bolts, a 17mm for the front axle & a 12mm to rotate the eccentrics/rear axle nut.
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Ninja
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 09 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks pops. I took both calipers off the front as they didn't seem to want to clear the wheel rim as it tried to get past. I've also learned a few lessons already!

1)The bike will not stay on the mainstand without the front wheel - thinking I could just rest the forks on the floor while I would work on rear? - nope, as I lowered the front to leave it, the nose down angle was too much and the bike simply fell forward, cracking the bellypan . . .

2)Only use tools for the manner in which they were designed; a screwdriver does not make a good lever - I found to the detriment of my knuckles and a trip to casualty. I had a hex socket on each side of the rear spindle to undo them, contra rotate style, the right was a proper ratchet driver with socket/ bit and the left was a bit with a hole through for a lever; my screwdriver, it snapped without much provocation and sliced my knuckles quite deeply.

3)Yes, the rear caliper slide bolt needs to be loosened to allow the eccentrics movement.

Using the pinch bolts to secure each side - what a stroke of 'simplistic' genius!

Is regular LM grease fine for lubing the spindles when they go back on?

S'gonna be a couple of days before I get enough mobility back in my fingers to finish the job . . . what a plank!

ZRX61 wrote:
The rear spindle nut is also a hex head, the smaller of the 2 is the actual spinle, the larger one is the nut.

The chain-side has a small hex hole in a large bolt/nut - the disc-side has a larger hex hole but in a smaller bolt/nut - confirm which side the spindle will actually be pulled from? Thanks.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 09 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear: The smaller hex is the spindle, the larger one is the nut so at elast we know the last guy put it back in the right way, the spindle comes out on the chain side. LM grease is fine for the spindles.
As for the rear caliper nut: Some people just leave it a bit loose anyway. It ain';t like it will fall off as it's supposed to be a nyloc nut anyway.. & the bolt should have a pin thru it outboard of the nut..

Front: ya suposed to put something under the front of the engine to keep it balanced, a pile of 4x8's works. Isn't hindsight wonderful?

Pops???????????????????? Middle Finger Middle Finger
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