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Lexmoto 125cc FMS not starting

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chris20c
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Oct 2017
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Lexmoto 125cc FMS not starting Reply with quote

Hello guys inam new to the forum and also not really an expert of bike.
I have a problem with my lexmoto 125cc fms.
The bike doesn’t start
When i press the start botton the engine doesn’t start and it makes a noise like it’s struggling to start.
I am thinking that the battery is gone.
Any help here?
Have a look at the video to give you an idea.
Thanks

https://youtu.be/n35sS63eFzA
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mudcow007
World Chat Champion



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is the battery?

if you havent got one, buy a voltmeter. only cheap from ebay or go to toolstation

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Test+Equipment/sd3348/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867

you need to see what voltage your battery has/ hasnt got
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chris20c
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Oct 2017
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
How old is the battery?

if you havent got one, buy a voltmeter. only cheap from ebay or go to toolstation

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Test+Equipment/sd3348/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867

you need to see what voltage your battery has/ hasnt got

How does it work? The battery hasn’t been change since 2015.
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chris20c
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Oct 2017
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really seems the issue is the battery as the light is very low and indicator works but when i put the full light with the high lights the indicator doesn’t work at all
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace battery with a fully charged one. See what it's charging at..
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ThatDippyTwat
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Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a multimeter - just over a fiver on fleabay, a tenner in toolstation, screwfix etc. Brand does not matter for this, you don't need a precision tool, a 10th of a volt is fine.

You want to tset it on Volts DC, that a V with a line over 3 dots, there will be a few within that group, you want it on 20.

Put the red lead in the Volt socket, black one in COM or GND. Tell us what you get on your old battery (Almost certainly toast), and a new battery when you have started the bike and let it idle, and then when revving the bike.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)
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Stoker
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 13 Sep 2014
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PostPosted: 17:38 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a QINGQI QM125-2V (Sinnis Max 2) sat in the shed at the moment (not dissimilar from your bike, maybe made in the same factory), just over two years old when it was dropped off at mine, and the battery was toast. It was a very cheap Chongqing Senchi battery, I suggest you buy a new replacement, preferably not a chinese one!


As you inferred (although didn't say how old it was) that it's not been used much, check over the brake light switches, both had failed on the bike this guy left with me and it's not even done 5000 miles yet (altho difficult to tell, as the odo has failed too!)
https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_YTX7ABSC


Last edited by Stoker on 17:43 - 14 Oct 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I'd buy a multimeter and a battery charger before buying a new battery, and find out why it's run out of electrons.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Stoker
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 13 Sep 2014
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 14 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree Rog, on my particular example the earth strap from the battery was corroded at the terminal to the frame, the connector with the three yellow wires from the alternator to the reg/rec was fawlty, as was the connector from said reg/rec to battery, which showed about 11.1v after a full charge, settling down to 10. something after moments, and then barely tickling the starter. (which is why I suggested new battery, but, granted, OP's situation might be different, and his cheap, neglected chinese battery might be still capable of stirling service for many years to come)

A multimeter is a great tool for such a small investment, didn't someone here do a guide to using one recently?
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