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Cars on a Tight Budget

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B5234FT
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're doing 10k miles a year, why on earth are you looking at diesels?

You're making running cost comparisons with the matter of a few takeaways between costs. The real life variance is MUCH larger. Any of them could need a timing belt depending on the mileage you buy at, diesels with a DPF require different and more expensive oil, different tyre sizes have wildly varying costs depending on the number sold and you may or may not need to buy any.

Do you have an spanner turning abilities to maintain cars or will you be forced to pay labour?

No modern cars blow up at 100k miles, or even 200k miles and they dont rust either, they just produce more and more bills gradually until you're throwing more money at keeping the older one than a new one would cost. That point is MUCH earlier if you pay labour.

Personally, barring perhaps a 1.6 petrol focus (theyre like cockroaches), I wouldnt touch any of your list.

The best car will be one that has been cared for, so avoid buying from auctions, ever. No one has ever sent an honest car to an auction, they're all there for a reason. Find a private seller and buy a car that's worth almost as much in bits as youre paying and look at it before you buy.

For example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-FORD-MONDEO-1-8-LX-5-DOOR-ESTATE/172953044265?hash=item2844ce0529:g:vUQAAOSw~HBZ9Qx1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-FORD-FOCUS-ESTATE-1-6-PETROL-5-DOOR/142537079881?hash=item212fdf3c49:g:8kMAAOSw9jdZ364a

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-V40-2-0T-SE-Estate/112623363558?hash=item1a38e025e6:g:NJ0AAOSwr1tZ94rU

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bmw/263293812368?hash=item3d4d88be90:g:cLMAAOSwZtlZ-tYt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-VECTRA-1-8i-VVT-2006-56-IDEAL-ESTATE-FACE-LIFT-HPI-CLEAR/152767595548?hash=item2391a8841c:g:0KgAAOSwUMxZ-Z8E

And with each one you'd need to see what servicing is next due, how much meat is left on the tyres and what the previous MOT history and advisories were. Find one thats 30k from needing a belt and has just been serviced and you should be able to keep it for 2 years and 20k for the price of a service and a pair of tyres if you're lucky.
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_Will_
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second B5234FT's comment on mileage, you will be better off with a petrol (moreso now the gap at the forecourts is growing again)

An older CR-V with a 2.0 petrol can be picked up around 100k for a grand. Also the early IMA hybrids from honda were bought by the beige wearing generation so are tidy if you can find one and good one fuel.
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dodsi
Dirty Carny



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PostPosted: 13:12 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently had the same question come up in my head, my 325i needed replacing because it just needed a couple of bits that were not worth it to me - but were for somebody else.

I went with a 2001 56K miles, 2 owners - one for the last 14 years. Toyota Avensis 1.8vvti to get me some Cam chain action so I dont have to think about cam belt services.

£800 - maybe a little on the high side for the price but 4 new tyres, serviced every year to save £200 or so on the car but it need nothing spending on it for the immediate future then a cheaper car could cost me much more than £200 to just buy reasonable tyres.

Only had it a matter of weeks but all appears fine on it.
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arry
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My current Bangernomics is a Lexus IS300 Sportcross. 3 litre straight 6 2JZ with 200+ bhp and a half decent auto box with tiptronic controls; electric and leather everything inside - £850 with a full tank of fuel Laughing It's mega - it's actually a little bit too good as I've started to spend money on it, which sort of defeats the object Whistle
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M.C
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I can't really fault my 1.6 petrol. Well, I can fault the temperature sensor on the bottom of the engine which has a dodgy wiring harness (known about by Opel but not recalled), but I'm happy to ignore it and just reset the nag light before each MOT. Also, the VED is annoyingly high for the modest performance, but you can avoid that with a kitten murdering death-diesel.

As a car that you can just sling people and things into, it's... unobjectionable.

A relative has the 2.2L model and has had lots of issues, but (apparently) it's meant to be a problematic engine.

I feel butthurt everytime I put my foot down and my 1.6/100bhp engine does very little. £220 to get to 60 in over 11 seconds Crying or Very sad

...and yes the diesel version costs a lot less Evil or Very Mad
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm, it's weird that now we've realised that diesels are soot belching deathmobiles that we haven't retconned VED to reflect that. It's almost as though it's more about reliable revenue rinsing than reducing emissions. Thinking

Mine is the "low emission" Band G version at only £190. Pretty stiff for something that only gets driven a few kilomiles a year, it's probably about 50% of the cost of the fuel I put in it.

Relevant to thread because you do need to check VED rates on things like arry's "£850" penguin punisher that costs £1385 once you've paid for its 265 carbons.
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arry
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luckily there were no published emissions figures on the IS300 by all accounts and therefore it's flat rate - still lumpy but I roll in mad dorrah.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Luckily there were no published emissions figures on the IS300 by all accounts and therefore it's flat rate - still lumpy but I roll in mad dorrah.

https://car-emissions.com/cars/index/lexus+is300 says 265. How much is the Man rinsing you for?
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Fizzoid
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Mmm, it's weird that now we've realised that diesels are soot belching deathmobiles that we haven't retconned VED to reflect that. It's almost as though it's more about reliable revenue rinsing than reducing emissions. Thinking


Was reading an article about that recently. It suggested that as it was the Govt. that convinced us to buy these planet saving diesels, now we know they're actually as deadly as the Death Star, that we could take action against the Govt. should they try and raise the VED. Not sure how that would work as it was a Labour Govt. that started the incentive to buy diesel
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arry
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

https://car-emissions.com/cars/index/lexus+is300 says 265. How much is the Man rinsing you for?


The flat rate, 300 quid from memory.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzoid wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Mmm, it's weird that now we've realised that diesels are soot belching deathmobiles that we haven't retconned VED to reflect that. It's almost as though it's more about reliable revenue rinsing than reducing emissions. Thinking


Was reading an article about that recently. It suggested that as it was the Govt. that convinced us to buy these planet saving diesels, now we know they're actually as deadly as the Death Star, that we could take action against the Govt. should they try and raise the VED. Not sure how that would work as it was a Labour Govt. that started the incentive to buy diesel

We always did know. As usual there were other reasons for promoting diesels. They're discouraging diesel drivers by ULEZ/other charges, which I can kinda see the logic behind as diesels aren't really suited to cities.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:

https://car-emissions.com/cars/index/lexus+is300 says 265. How much is the Man rinsing you for?


The flat rate, 300 quid from memory.

Aaaaah, the K* band. Pre 2006 then?
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M.C
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So VED must cost more than insurance for some people? Wish I was one of those.
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arry
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 07 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
So VED must cost more than insurance for some people? Wish I was one of those.


Certainly the case with my old Volvo - 240 quid a year fully comp lol.

Roger - yeah, 2004. It really is a cracking car which I'm finding really hard to fault.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
So VED must cost more than insurance for some people? Wish I was one of those.


Yes, it is for my 2 litre petrol auto C Max. High £200's VED, low £200's Insurance Evil or Very Mad
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 02:16 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
So VED must cost more than insurance for some people? Wish I was one of those.


So do I. 56 bucks a year for the equivalent of VED and 80 bucks (a month Thumbs Down ) for insurance.

I fink I was 'ad. Just under 20K (dorrah) for a seven year old motor that does about 20mpg (17mpg US gallons) with 116K on the clock...
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 14:19 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Re: Cars on a Tight Budget Reply with quote

MahatmaAndhi wrote:
So, based on affordable vehicles which I deem acceptable, are there any with notorious defects?


Yes, almost every diesel model with have a dual mass flywheel, so a failure of that or the clutch will be your total budget.

They all have turbos, which can fail and again will cost your budget again

They mostly have modern multilink suspension which will cost to put right if it's hanging off.

The point is ALL cars have failure points. The cost of repair depends on method and knowledge but given that from your posts you have little knowledge or experience, buy a naturally aspirated petrol vehicle, dont worry about which one as it's utterly irrelevant, buy on condition. Find a vehicle that's up to date on maintenance with good tyres and crack on.

It's all very well to smear costs the way you have if you're taking a long term position on a new vehicle, but tyres arent 2pence per mile, theyre £300 whenever theyre needed, which is every 20-30k depending on driving style. Aim not to have to fit any in your ownership.

Cambelts are the same story, great if you buy a car, fit one, do 35k and then sell it again, but nasty if you have to pay for one 5k from selling it.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I currently have a 2004 Audi A6 1.9tdi with the CVT (awful) gearbox.

At the time of purchase, I was travelling large mileages (contracting in Swindon from Portishead near Bristol), thought process at the time of buying it was; no dpf, no dmf, comfy, economic and reliable diesel.

I've since changed jobs etc, I've put 41k trouble free miles on the car in 2 years, all its needed in that time is a battery last winter (it was on the original), tyres and brakes.

Bought on 120k miles, now on 161k miles. Ok the gearbox is fucking terrible compared to my BMW autos I've owned in the past, quite jerky when cold, unresponsive in general, but it's been brilliantly reliable so far. With a longer term average mpg of 44 (actual mpg, computer over reads by 2). I plan to run it to death.

I'm not saying a diesel for 10k miles a year is a clever idea, as I probably wouldn't buy another now my work miles are down to 12k a year. But if you are set on a diesel, an auto 1.9tdi VAG motor is probably the best way to go.

That or a cheap 1.8/2.0 petrol focus would be my shout. Bit more poke than the 1.6
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Fizzoid
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

bacon wrote:
I currently have a 2004 Audi A6 1.9tdi with the CVT (awful) gearbox.


First couple of suggestions were something with a 1.9PD engine, that'd possibly be the way I'd go too. Regular oil changes and many go on for over 200k
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B5234FT
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 08 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

my last car was a bora tdi which i ran to 208k miles and it was still going strong but it did have a clutch and flywheel in that time.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 09 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had 2 x 1.6 L and 1 x 1.8 L petrol focus.

The 100 bhp 1.6 is an awful engine. Very outdated and underpowered. Get a 1.8 or 2L. The mk1 1.8 I had was a nicer engine than either the mk2 or mk3 1.6.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 10 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
The 100 bhp 1.6 is an awful engine. Very outdated and underpowered.

I agree, got the same engine in my Volvo and kinda regret not getting the 1.8 I originally wanted. It's the car equivalent of a 125.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 10 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve got an Audi A4 2.0 TDI that’s only 4 years old and has just ticked over 54k miles.

Cam belt is due at next service £372 inc VAT water pump included.

My clutch is already on its way out (common problem). Looking at £980 inc VAT for clutch and dual mass flywheel.

These prices are Independent Audi specialists. Audi garage was looking at close to £4K...

My car allowance and mileage allowance covers this, so I’m not feeling too butthurt, but what I’m saying is that I have these expensive repairs on a car I paid £13k for, these problems are much more likely on a car that only costs £1k. So forget fuel, insurance and tax (my Audi is only £30/year to tax!) and concentrate on the condition of the vehicle.
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dodsi
Dirty Carny



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PostPosted: 13:02 - 10 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

JonB wrote:
I’ve got an Audi A4 2.0 TDI that’s only 4 years old and has just ticked over 54k miles.

Cam belt is due at next service £372 inc VAT water pump included.

My clutch is already on its way out (common problem). Looking at £980 inc VAT for clutch and dual mass flywheel.

These prices are Independent Audi specialists. Audi garage was looking at close to £4K...

My car allowance and mileage allowance covers this, so I’m not feeling too butthurt, but what I’m saying is that I have these expensive repairs on a car I paid £13k for, these problems are much more likely on a car that only costs £1k. So forget fuel, insurance and tax (my Audi is only £30/year to tax!) and concentrate on the condition of the vehicle.


So, i understand that having a car allowance means that you need to have a vehicle that is reasonably new and 'in good working order' for work so our situations are not the same.

But this is why, as a second car - I have the £800 Avensis - if I am presented with bills anything like that I can simply sell the old car and take a small loss and buy something else which would work out significantly cheaper than just those bills alone.

The only problem with having something like the 6CYL 'luxury' car is the fuel consumption when you do a lot of miles - when my wife was using the 325i and getting 20/25MPG (because stop start SE traffic and town driving) fuel begins to cost a lot of money - money that makes things like leases worthwhile in fuel savings alone.

If you can find a car that you will get a years worth of use and costs £500 - even if you only got 1 year and had to scrap it, in reality is about the cheapest way of motoring. Regardless of what it is, just don't expect to be in love with your car and enjoy driving it.
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