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Fuel tank winter condensation ethanol etc..

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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Fuel tank winter condensation ethanol etc.. Reply with quote

I've been think about this and the fact that many people encourage use of no-ethanol fuel over winter. BUT if ethanol absorbs water(condensation) isn't that a good thing - rather than let it sit at the bottom of a tank. Confused
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Re: Fuel tank winter condensation ethanol etc.. Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
I've been think about this and the fact that many people encourage use of no-ethanol fuel over winter. BUT if ethanol absorbs water(condensation) isn't that a good thing - rather than let it sit at the bottom of a tank. Confused


I'd rather make sure there's no water in the tank...
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Water doesn't make things rust. Rust is iron oxide; so its the oxygen that makes it rust.
The water is essentially just a catalyst; so it's is not so crucial, and as far as the rates of reaction are concerned, other factors such as temperature, concentration and 'agitation' start to become more significant.
In short, I don't think it makes a heck of a lot of odds!
Unless the tank is fibre-glass.... in which case I believe you are best advised to drain for ANY lay-up longer than over-night to avoid the alcohol turning the resin to jelly!
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

i`ve filled a 20l can with super unleaded for topin -up over the winter ..largely due to the fact that there is less ethanol content..
i keep the tanks brimmed at all times to minimise evaporation and condensation ingress.. there will be a minimal loss of additives over time from standing fuel .. though not much... the added octane will aid cold starting aswell .. but the winter mix of fuel has additives in to help this anyway....

i can feel a Tef.. incomin..
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ethanol absorbs water and in doing so it separates from petrol, so with a static bike you end up with an ethanol-water mix pooling at the bottom of the tank. In normal use it will be stirred up and dispersed throughout the tank so has much less opportunity to cause corrosion, nor to be drawn in bulk through carbs/FI.

Without ethanol you've still got the possibility of water ingress due to condensation. (Hence brim the tank to minimise the air gap.) Water will still fall to the bottom but the fuel isn't actively drawing it in.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Courier265 wrote:


At least he doesn't talk bollocks..... Dance!




says he who advised turnin tick over up to 2000 rpm ..
and the only thing that would fcuk a clutch is slick 50 ..
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The diesel bug is quite prevalent in boats when water is present in the tank. I've never heard of it happening in cars though. Same for petrol engines, I've never heard of it being a problem.

Maybe because the fuel turnover is so high and 'sloshing' happens continuously, any water gets taken with the fuel and doesn't settle in the tank.
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
Ethanol absorbs water and in doing so it separates from petrol, so with a static bike you end up with an ethanol-water mix pooling at the bottom of the tank. In normal use it will be stirred up and dispersed throughout the tank so has much less opportunity to cause corrosion, nor to be drawn in bulk through carbs/FI.


Errm, so basically shake your bike hard before starting it for the first time after winter?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 12 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm. Thanks. Topping up tank to minimise air/condensation possibilities makes sense. I do still feel there's a degree of 'pop' science based angst regards ethanol for rotting out tanks..
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 13 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just brim the tank.
If there is no space for air to get in then atmospheric moisture will be 'practically' eliminated.
If you are laying a fuel tank up for longer than several months then more aggressive methods are required where VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) are added to fresh fuel and all tank openings sealed.

If short term storage (over winter) then add some fuel conditioner and get on with your life.

'Never Sweat Little Stuff.'
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 13 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I left a 20L Jerry can with 10L of 95 unleaded in the open air for 4 years, there was no rust inside the can, after 4 years.
I put the 10L of 4 year old unleaded into a, nearly empty, Rav 4, it ran just fine, with no problems!
Make of that what you will!
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 13 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
I left a 20L Jerry can with 10L of 95 unleaded in the open air for 4 years, there was no rust inside the can, after 4 years.
I put the 10L of 4 year old unleaded into a, nearly empty, Rav 4, it ran just fine, with no problems!
Make of that what you will!


the metal is impervious to fuel .. the rubber seal on the lid is fuel resistant .. when its closed .. air tight .. nothin escapes .... Army fuel cans sit around for years with out any problem ..

a testament to the design & manufacture.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 13 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
Errm, so basically shake your bike hard before starting it for the first time after winter?

If you're Britain's Strongest Man. Smile I suppose I should have said that in regular use you'll never accumulate enough water to be a problem.
A100man wrote:
I do still feel there's a degree of 'pop' science based angst regards ethanol for rotting out tanks.

Agreed. When I bought another bike I "mothballed" my ZX6R (outside) by switching the fuel tap off and running the engine until it stopped. I then brimmed the tank. I included some Silkolene Pro-FST, supposedly as a fuel stabiliser but probably a mistake since I now know it is mostly iso-propanol, another water-loving alcohol. In fairness I'm not sure if it claims to be a stabiliser, I keep it around to resist carb-icing. The planned bike refurb was delayed by several years (say 5) and when I finally got round to it there had been some evaporation, and there was about a litre or so of what looked just like milky coffee in the bottom of the tank. There might have been some rainwater ingress past the fuel cap for all I know. I drained and filtered it, discarding the brown water and decanting the petrol layer into my car. (It didn't hurt a bit when added to a full tank.) The bike tank had a few speckles of rust inside but I flushed it and changed the in-line fuel filter and it runs fine. I rebuilt the carbs recently because the Dynojet needles were worn/ corroded, (they were playing up before mothballing) but the carbs themselves were spotless.
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Paulf
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the question but do we have ethanol in our petrol. I am on a USA forum and they are paranoid about fuel especially over the winter when they don't ride their bikes. And I do up bike as a hobby and never come across a gunge or poor starting. The bike I doing up at the moment as fuel in that is at least a year old. And it runs ok. Just asking is it really a problem in UK.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulf wrote:
Sorry for the question but do we have ethanol in our petrol. I am on a USA forum and they are paranoid about fuel especially over the winter when they don't ride their bikes. And I do up bike as a hobby and never come across a gunge or poor starting. The bike I doing up at the moment as fuel in that is at least a year old. And it runs ok. Just asking is it really a problem in UK.


Yep. Between 5% and 10% (E10) .In USA I believe the proportion might even be higher.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:45 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulf wrote:
Sorry for the question but do we have ethanol in our petrol. I am on a USA forum and they are paranoid about fuel especially over the winter when they don't ride their bikes.


Very Happy

Most Paranoia starts in the States. Too many people put too much faith in hype. It's a Marketer's Dream. Smile
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Water doesn't make things rust. Rust is iron oxide; so its the oxygen that makes it rust.
The water is essentially just a catalyst; so it's is not so crucial, and as far as the rates of reaction are concerned, other factors such as temperature, concentration and 'agitation' start to become more significant.


Must be why all those sunken ships are in such great non-rusted condition. Can't be the water doing it must be all that oxygen at the bottom of the sea.

H2Oooooooooooh dear me.....
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

Must be why all those sunken ships are in such great non-rusted condition. Can't be the water doing it must be all that oxygen at the bottom of the sea.

H2Oooooooooooh dear me.....


Learn 2 chemistry.

Oxygen is water soluable. In an open system (like the sea), the water will be 100% saturated all the time, corrosion takes place constantly.

In a closed system with a limited quantity of water under a layer of hydrocarbon with little to no oxygen permeability (like the bottom of a tank under the fuel), the initial oxygen will quickly be used up and bound to the steel. Once it's gone, no further corrosion can take place.

There ethanol sitting IS an issue is on older bikes (pre '96-ish) where some of the carb, fuel tap, filter, pump and fuel hose componants can suffer from errosion/degradation. I had a fuel hose physically rot off my enfield and starty pissing petrol all over the floor.

As such, my vfr has been put away for the winter with a brimmed tank with Frosts ethanol protectant additive in it and run for long enough that the treated fuel has run through the carbs. Battery is off and I'm going to clean and push the brake pistons back in this weekend.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


As such, my vfr has been put away for the winter with a brimmed tank with Frosts ethanol protectant additive in it and run for long enough that the treated fuel has run through the carbs..


what about filling with super unleaded 98ron.....
no ethanol in that ...
is there Question
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:


As such, my vfr has been put away for the winter with a brimmed tank with Frosts ethanol protectant additive in it and run for long enough that the treated fuel has run through the carbs..


what about filling with super unleaded 98ron.....
no ethanol in that ...
is there Question


I'd expect there to be more.

Alcohol is about 140 octane, it's a cheap way to boost the octane rating of fuel but at the cost of energy density.

That's why the run NASCARs on methanol, they can use stupidly high compression ratios without detonation but they need to practically pour the stuff into the engine.
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Monkeypony
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If laying a bike up for the winter, Aspen fuel.

Won't rot seals. Zero Ethanol. Non hygroscopic, so won't got 'off' and won't promote rust.

Not the cheapest solution, but if you have classic bikes, very worth it.
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Last edited by Monkeypony on 16:06 - 23 Nov 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I'd expect there to be more.

Alcohol is about 140 octane, it's a cheap way to boost the octane rating of fuel but at the cost of energy density.

That's why the run NASCARs on methanol, they can use stupidly high compression ratios without detonation but they need to practically pour the stuff into the engine.


my understanding is its ethanol that is used .. cheap shit .. which has a lower octane value than petrol.. Question
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:

my understanding is its ethanol that is used .. cheap shit .. which has a lower octane value than petrol.. Question


Nope. The octane rating is (roughly) how quickly the fuel burns when vapourised. The slower the burn, the higher the octane rating. This is desirable in high compression engines because it prevents predetonation (also known as 'pinking'). The higher the octane, the higher the compression and more advanced the timing you'll get away with. All equalls power.

Ethanol has a huge octane rating. 140-ish from memory.

It is cheaper to produce than petrol.

Here's the rub though. It has a lower energy density. So while it burns more slowly, it also releases less energy per ml than naptha. You need comparatively more fuel in your intake charge to get the same size bang. Run a high ethanol ratio in an engine not designed to cope with it and you run the risk of running lean and heat-seizing. Modern fuel injected engines monitor the gasses going into and out of the engine and alter the fuel:air mix accordingly so they can use the high ethanol fuels.

Some race bikes (especially classic trials bikes) run on "dope" which is mostly methanol. They need so much more fuel compared to standard ones that it wasn't uncommon to simply remove the main jet from the carb altogether to let it snort huge volumes of fuel up the empty emulsion tube.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 23 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personal experience.

My Versys has sat in the garage for 2 years and has less that 1/4 tank of fuel. Still starts and runs fine, once battery is charged.

Tank still fine inside.

Previous to that I had a diversion, that sat in the garage for 3 years. Still started fine.... Just a shame the clutch would not disengage...
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