Kawasaki Er-5 engine rattle

[Andy88]

Hello,

I've recently noticed an annoying rattle noise coming from the engine of my kawasaki er-5, have a listen here --> https://goo.gl/maa5ME

As hopefully you can hear it's a bit random and is loudest at certain rpms, at higher rpm it goes.

My thinking is it's the cam chain rattling which might mean the tensioner is stuck and not putting an tension on the chain?

Opinions welcome, thanks,
Andy

[Chris45]

Try tensioning the timing chain first, that's the first point of call I'd go for. The primary chain on these engines (same as the GPz 500) is notoriously rattly especially at slow speeds when easing off the throttle. I just live with it, tells me the bike is still alive

Hope this helps.

Chris
GPz 500S owner
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Honda CG125>Suzuki GT185>Honda CB 250N>Suzuki GSX400>Honda CX500B>Kawasaki GPZ305> Kawasaki GPZ550>Kawasaki GPZ500S+BMW 650GS

[RhynoCZ]

You Sir, have a typewriter inside your engine!

I agree with Chris, the timing chain is lose. Reset the adjuster (12048), it's spring loaded. If that won't help, then it's time to take the valve cover off and do some thorough inspection.

https://www.partsdepot.cz/picown/400589.jpg
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Andy88]

"You Sir, have a typewriter inside your engine!" Yes! Great description of the noise.

Ok, thanks both for the advice, I will take a look at the adjustor. Is it ok to remove it, inspect, and replace? Won't mess anything up inside the engine by doing that?

[Stalk]

You sound unsure, so it may be time to invest in a manual. If, and I stress if, it works the same as a Honda one, then once you commit to undoing it you must remove it as it has a ratchet mechanism that means it may spring out as you loosen it and if you retighen it the timing chain may then be too tight.
Hope that helps a bit.

[Falco]

I had a similar sound on my ER-5, never did find out the cause though (an inattentive driver helpfully rear ended me, and christ did that sound get worse as I limped the bike home).

Replacing the tensioner is piss easy, if I remember correctly you are supposed to set the pistons to TDC (take off timing inspection plug and rotor cover on LHS crankcase- nut with socket in anticlockwise direction until you see a little "o" on the flywheel line up with the notch on the case).

I don't think you really need to do that if you are just checking the tensioner rather than delving into the engine but better safe than sorry (and it's 5 minutes work, if that). A manual would be a good investment (they can even be procured on the internet, I hear )

I think I still have my tensioner somewhere (replacement didn't fix the noise so I assume it was still working), if you want it.
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I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it

[Andy88]

Cheers for the advice everyone, I will remove and inspect the tensioner this week hopefully. I have a Haynes manual so will keep to the correct procedure. I bought the bike about 10 months ago, it was old but low milage, which has meant a few issues related to it being stood doing nothing for so long (carb and petcock value needed cleaning). This could be related I guess.

I will let you know if the typing subsides!

Andy