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wristjob |
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wristjob World Chat Champion
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
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Posted: 23:03 - 24 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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Take someone who knows what they are looking at. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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wristjob |
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wristjob World Chat Champion
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Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg nimbA
Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 09:04 - 25 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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Make sure said friend actually knows what they're on about though and doesn't talk you out of a decent bike, like some angry mong did with my GPZ500.
On that, if a bike's up for sale for more than 48 hours, it's unlikely to be a steal at its asking price.
If it's up for over a week, it's likely over priced. Most dealer bikes are in this category.
Yes, there are exceptions for niche or under-rated bikes, but as a general rule, if you're not the first to view a "bargain" bike, it's probably not one. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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MarJay |
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MarJay But it's British!
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :
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Rob Fzs |
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Rob Fzs World Chat Champion
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jjdugen |
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jjdugen World Chat Champion
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Karma :
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Posted: 13:25 - 25 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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If you are looking at an older 'bargain', I always ask for the reg number, check mileage on the dirctgov site for past MOT's. No reg, don't bother.
So many pitfalls on older / cheaper bikes.
Check downpipes for rust, expensive to replace. Look under the seat, generally gives you a good idea of wiring harness condition. Turn the ignition key, if it jams or needs wobbling it is another expensive fail item. Check disks, lipped or worn, expensive replacements. Check all switchgear. Fork seals, of course, fork stanchions for pitting. As has been said, what seems a bargain could wind up very expensive. ____________________ The CBR900RR has been sold. Aprilia Falco worms its way into my heart.
Try Soi 23 on Amazon for a good read.... Self promotion? Moi? |
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stevo as b4 |
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stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jul 2003 Karma :
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ZX-7R |
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ZX-7R Banned
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biker7 |
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biker7 Crazy Courier
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ZX-7R |
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ZX-7R Banned
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qarka |
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qarka Spanner Monkey
Joined: 10 Mar 2009 Karma :
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Oneear |
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Oneear Renault 5 Driver
Joined: 20 Mar 2016 Karma :
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Posted: 00:02 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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ZX-7R wrote: | Used bike money is crazy these days.By the time you buy one and fix its faults,replace worn out seals,bearings etc.,it ends up being far more than you expected.
I think next bike i will buy will be new pre reg/ex demo at discount rather than fix all the problems.Finance/bank loan APR is low these days so worth it if you are looking at long term ownership which i would be. |
Anyone buying second hand would be taking into account initial repair costs, surely?
Why would you be buying new? Yes, interest rates are relatively low, but (ignoring all the inherent problems with borrowing money), as far as value goes - there simply is none. The only advantage to new that I can see would be the pose factor. If that's important to you, crack on and good luck.
biker7 wrote: | I agree. Some are dead against new bikes because they depreciate fast. I feel the pleasure of owning a new bike outweighs this but I know some prefer to keep an old bike on the road to save money. No prob. As above, buy new, keep a long time is a sensible option. Some enjoy tinkering so the new option is of lesser interest. I'm generally not a spanner man but respect those that are. As for buying used - I tend to prefer to pay more at a dealer, with a warranty. It's not foolproof but can avoid buying a complete lemon. If you are confident and enjoy seeking out a private bargain, good on you. Biking pleasure comes in different forms. As a rule I'd stick to less luxurious models buying used - sv650 as opposed to Goldwing sort of thing. But if you really know your stuff there are no rules except yours. |
HAHAHA.
I am a spanner man, not particularly with bikes mind you. But what makes you think that an older bike necessarily requires more 'tinkering' than a new bike? I've got a Y plate Triumph, had it for a year, done about 5000 miles and it's cost me £20 MOT and £25 oil and filter change over that time. Both done by a local independent.
How much do you think a service for a new bike is?
Why is a dealer less likely to sell you a lemon than a biker who is moving his pride and joy on?
You're both daft. |
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Bonnie Lad |
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Bonnie Lad Nitrous Nuisance
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biker7 |
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biker7 Crazy Courier
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Oneear |
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Oneear Renault 5 Driver
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qarka |
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qarka Spanner Monkey
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Bonnie Lad |
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Bonnie Lad Nitrous Nuisance
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Tdibs |
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Tdibs Traffic Copper
Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 01:44 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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Christ, 10k for a new bonnie, they making them out of gold now? ____________________ Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000 |
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :
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CaNsA |
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CaNsA Super Spammer
Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 04:35 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: Re: buying a used bike? |
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wristjob wrote: | rather than just taking the piss out of the poor guy we could offer some helpful tips. |
Oh jesus christ.
It's not an uncommon subject to expect on BCF, y'know with it it being a motorbike forum.
It would suggest that it has been discussed many many times already.
Anyone who asks the question deserves to get the piss ripped out of them.
Personally, I have posted the following "list" several times over the years.
Quote: | Go with a grease monkey type mate, and take this checklist.
Things to keep an eye out for...
-Check the discs dont have a massive ridge at the edge.
-New brake pads are always good.
-Ask about the wheel bearings, put it on the centre stand and spin the front wheel, and the same with the back. check for a grinding/knocking sound from the centre of the wheel > if so then new bearings.
-While on the centre stand, sit on the bike, lean back so the front lifts a few inches and slowly move the bars from left to right. If you feel and knotches then you will need new headstock bearings, ballache of a job to do and costly on labour if you got to a garage to get it done.
-Check chain and sprockets for wear.
-Listen for a knocking sound from the engine.
-Ask him not to start the bike until you get there, you want to see how easy it starts from cold.
-Feel the engine before it starts to see if he has warmed it up. if he has, ask why. if you dont like his answer walk away.
-Look on the downpipes for any holes, and feel/listen for any blowing from the downpipes and exhausts pipe and can.
-Take the oil filler cap off and look for any white cheesy looking gunk > water in the engine not good.
-The gearbox should make a re-assuring "THUNK" when you knock it into 1st gear. The clutch may rattle/rustle a little and it should stop when you pull the clutch in.
If at any point you get a bad vibe, then walk away. there are thousands of other bikes out there. |
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biker7 |
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biker7 Crazy Courier
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chickenstrip |
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chickenstrip Super Spammer
Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Karma :
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Posted: 10:08 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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90% of the bikes I've bought over the years have been 2nd hand from dealers. In the early days, I went to the same dealer for several bikes in a row, and got to know them well. Even ended up working for them later on. Before then, I used to pop in quite regularly just to browse and shoot the breeze over a coffee. so I came to trust them. Later ones have been bought from dealers I didn't know, so I was a little more careful about them.
Each time, I 've pretty much used the checklists given here by CaNsA and wristjob, with the added proviso of researching the particular model I was going to view to find about any known faults or problems that are common.
I guess I've been lucky in that I've never really had major problems occur (is it luck, or just that I checked the bikes over carefully before buying? Bit of both perhaps) and so have never needed to put a dealer 2nd hand warranty to the test.
Probably paid a few quid over the odds in that time (dealer premium), but in each case it was much more convenient for me to do it that way, so that's what the extra paid for.
If I was wealthy, I'd certainly buy new more often than I did, but I try to look for the lowest possible mileage/best condition examples I can, and won't view anything that sounds like it needs work, as I don't do much spannering myself these days. Price and spannering have to be weighed up carefully. If you're good with the tools, can get parts cheaply enough, and have the time for it, even an old dog might be worth the punt, depending on this and that. ____________________ Chickenystripgeezer's Biking Life (Latest update 19/10/18) Belgium, France, Italy, Austria tour 2016 Picos de Europa, Pyrenees and French Alps tour 2017 Scotland Trip 1, now with BONUS FEATURE edit, 5/10/19, on page 2 Scotland Trip 2 Luxembourg, Black Forest, Switzerland, Vosges Trip 2017
THERE'S MILLIONS OF CHICKENSTRIPS OUT THERE! |
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Rob Fzs |
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Rob Fzs World Chat Champion
Joined: 07 Oct 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 13:13 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: |
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Oneear wrote: | ZX-7R wrote: | Used bike money is crazy these days.By the time you buy one and fix its faults,replace worn out seals,bearings etc.,it ends up being far more than you expected.
I think next bike i will buy will be new pre reg/ex demo at discount rather than fix all the problems.Finance/bank loan APR is low these days so worth it if you are looking at long term ownership which i would be. |
Anyone buying second hand would be taking into account initial repair costs, surely?
Why would you be buying new? Yes, interest rates are relatively low, but (ignoring all the inherent problems with borrowing money), as far as value goes - there simply is none. The only advantage to new that I can see would be the pose factor. If that's important to you, crack on and good luck.
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I think you need to buy a few second hand bikes that have been utterly fucked by previous owners, to the situation where you miss out riding over summer because of it, then you will think, a new bike isn't that much hassle.
Sure if you want a resto project then expect big work, thats why i have an ypvs350, tzr 250 and tdr250, but alot of these 20 year old bikes now are just fucked, if you just wanna ride a bike with no hassle, then a new bike would be the best option for you. ____________________ '00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30> Yamaha RD350 YPVS F2 > Kawasaki ZZR 600 D1 > Yamaha TZR 250 2MA >Suzuki TL1000R > Yamaha TDR250 > Honda 929 blade > Suzuki SV1000 > Honda H100
Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011 |
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NutsyUk |
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NutsyUk Nearly there...
Joined: 22 Jun 2016 Karma :
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Posted: 13:20 - 26 Nov 2017 Post subject: Re: buying a used bike? |
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CaNsA wrote: | wristjob wrote: | rather than just taking the piss out of the poor guy we could offer some helpful tips. |
Oh jesus christ.
It's not an uncommon subject to expect on BCF, y'know with it it being a motorbike forum.
It would suggest that it has been discussed many many times already.
Anyone who asks the question deserves to get the piss ripped out of them.
Personally, I have posted the following "list" several times over the years.
Quote: | Go with a grease monkey type mate, and take this checklist.
Things to keep an eye out for...
-Check the discs dont have a massive ridge at the edge.
-New brake pads are always good.
-Ask about the wheel bearings, put it on the centre stand and spin the front wheel, and the same with the back. check for a grinding/knocking sound from the centre of the wheel > if so then new bearings.
-While on the centre stand, sit on the bike, lean back so the front lifts a few inches and slowly move the bars from left to right. If you feel and knotches then you will need new headstock bearings, ballache of a job to do and costly on labour if you got to a garage to get it done.
-Check chain and sprockets for wear.
-Listen for a knocking sound from the engine.
-Ask him not to start the bike until you get there, you want to see how easy it starts from cold.
-Feel the engine before it starts to see if he has warmed it up. if he has, ask why. if you dont like his answer walk away.
-Look on the downpipes for any holes, and feel/listen for any blowing from the downpipes and exhausts pipe and can.
-Take the oil filler cap off and look for any white cheesy looking gunk > water in the engine not good.
-The gearbox should make a re-assuring "THUNK" when you knock it into 1st gear. The clutch may rattle/rustle a little and it should stop when you pull the clutch in.
If at any point you get a bad vibe, then walk away. there are thousands of other bikes out there. |
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So yes im the 'fool' who brought a second hand bike that might be more headache than it was worth..... But honestly. Im not sure it was that bad... Yeah more than i thought at first but not that big a deal. the bike isnt bent...
This check list....
-Check the discs dont have a massive ridge at the edge.
They have a 1mm dip on the outer edge where the brake pad presses, I always said they looked a little worn, but I think still legal and safe. However I have sourced some decent second hand OEM discs for 60 quid... Im just getting some further details on the condition. But at first it seems they are near new. Been confirmed not warped bent or damaged in any way... They have come off a crashed bike (I know omen) but like i said... confirmed straight... If theyre not in any way as good as the seller describes ill be sending them back.
-New brake pads are always good.
The ones on there certainly have some life left in them but If i get these new discs ill replace them anyway...
-Ask about the wheel bearings, put it on the centre stand and spin the front wheel, and the same with the back. check for a grinding/knocking sound from the centre of the wheel > if so then new bearings.
The bike is hard to push but its the brakes lightly binding. The bearings appear smooth when ive had it up on the stand...
-While on the centre stand, sit on the bike, lean back so the front lifts a few inches and slowly move the bars from left to right. If you feel and knotches then you will need new headstock bearings, ballache of a job to do and costly on labour if you got to a garage to get it done.
I admit on later inspection the headstock bearing might need replacing... No Knocking but a little play, I can do that myself, and might as well do it while I do the forks. No biggy tbh.
-Check chain and sprockets for wear.
Chains good. Sprockets a little worn but certainly has more life in it... No need to replace right now.
-Listen for a knocking sound from the engine.
Engine sounds good...
-Ask him not to start the bike until you get there, you want to see how easy it starts from cold.
Starts from cold no problem at all.... Ive also ran it through the gears. All gears changed without a hitch and were easy.... Heck getting it into neutral was shockingly piss easy compared to the shitty lexmoto... It was like a revelation.... This is what its meant to be like.
-Feel the engine before it starts to see if he has warmed it up. if he has, ask why. if you dont like his answer walk away.
Didnt do this test so... well... yeah... but like i said starts first time without a hitch since ive had it.
-Look on the downpipes for any holes, and feel/listen for any blowing from the downpipes and exhausts pipe and can.
Downpipes dont have any holes. Some light dusting of rust but nothing scary. might clean the rust and give it a sealing coat of something just to protect it...
-Take the oil filler cap off and look for any white cheesy looking gunk > water in the engine not good.
Didnt check, will do.
-The gearbox should make a re-assuring "THUNK" when you knock it into 1st gear. The clutch may rattle/rustle a little and it should stop when you pull the clutch in.
The 'Reassuring Thud' is all well and there... Wasnt reassuring when i first felt it. I was like... is that meant to do that?
I admit the bikes not in perfect condition. but these are all things I can fix. Forkseals and brakes are the only mechanical thing wrong, And im doing them. Headstock might need a new bearing but it could just need tightening investigating that today... New renthal handlebar is on the way, and thats 10-30 minutes work tops... In all honesty the majority of the work is going to be fixing the crack in the fiaring repairing the bits of interior fairing and sorting out the tank. ____________________ Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold! |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 154 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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