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Shaft
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PostPosted: 02:07 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Why all the discussion about the tank?

It has bent handlebars....


I was just commenting on something I have specialist knowledge of.

Slightly Arcane feel about this thread..........
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It has bent handlebars....

They'll help compensate for the twisted subframe though.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Why all the discussion about the tank?

It has bent handlebars....


They're getting replaced...
The bikes not had a nasty crash... It's been dropped hard... Or maybe prev rider skidded and dropped... But it's not hit anything... Forks are straight the frame is perfectly sound...
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and the tank hasn't been severely dented by the handle bars when they hit the deck, nor has said tank been blown out, filled, sanded and resprayed with paint that's not resistant to petrol...

Seriously though - the bike probably HAS been down the road, it probably HAS had some half-hearted attempts made to tart it up enough to sell on, and it probably HAS cost nearly twice as much as it should've.

Does that mean you can't make an okay bike out of it, that will be safe to ride etc. etc.? No of course not. You probably will. Only question is how much time, money and effort that's going to take. Just don't get too deep into denial about it.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like a hard worked commuter. Maintained on a budget of feck all, crashed one or more times and repaired on a budget of feck all.

Do yourself a favour though and buy a set of used forks/stanchions. Your half arsed bodge ideas will end up costing just as much when you have to keep replacing seals before you finally admit defeat and end up replacing the stanchions anyway.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
...and the tank hasn't been severely dented by the handle bars when they hit the deck, nor has said tank been blown out, filled, sanded and resprayed with paint that's not resistant to petrol...

Seriously though - the bike probably HAS been down the road, it probably HAS had some half-hearted attempts made to tart it up enough to sell on, and it probably HAS cost nearly twice as much as it should've.

Does that mean you can't make an okay bike out of it, that will be safe to ride etc. etc.? No of course not. You probably will. Only question is how much time, money and effort that's going to take. Just don't get too deep into denial about it.


I did find a small pea sized dent where the handlebar stock hit the tank.

Like i said, im pretty sure it has had teh bottom slip out on it. Its NOT hit anything other than the road. Surprisingly the fairing other than the crack there is no scratches like the ones you would expect if it had skidded down a road, which leads me to wonder maybe it was stationary when it was dropped. The wind mirror on the side i suspect it went down is scuffed a little... but not a huge amount.

Like the other guy said the radiator looks like a pressure hose got too close to it. I dont think for one second it was hit by something hard. (other than maybe the odd stone.

Is there more than i expected.... yes. I expected to just fix the fairing and tank paint job. I couldnt haggle for a lower price. They went from 1700 to 1500 hundred before I haggled them to 1300...

I have no problem putting time into things... Its not like i have much else to do right now. My only issue is money...
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johnsmith222
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Joined: 26 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="NutsyUk"]
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
...and the tank hasn't been severely dented by the handle bars when they hit the deck, nor has said tank been blown out, filled, sanded and resprayed with paint that's not resistant to petrol...

Is there more than i expected.... yes. I expected to just fix the fairing and tank paint job. I couldnt haggle for a lower price. They went from 1700 to 1500 hundred before I haggled them to 1300...


Again the fairing and tank are the last/worst things to repair. Fixing those are chucking your money away.

Get the forks, and any other mechanical issues sorted.

You'll also thank yourself for not bothering when you send it down the road. I know I have with my ZZR!
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Islander
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:

I did find a small pea sized dent where the handlebar stock hit the tank


That shouldn't be possible. Check the steering stops and make sure they're intact.
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MarJay
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I did find a small pea sized dent where the handlebar stock hit the tank.


Never crashed huh? Thinking

Fiver says the thing is a deathtrap and has been properly down the road at some point.
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NutsyUk
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Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
I did find a small pea sized dent where the handlebar stock hit the tank.


Never crashed huh? Thinking

Fiver says the thing is a deathtrap and has been properly down the road at some point.


Well in that case, ill prolly end up crashing it, spill my brains over the road and this site wont ever have to listen to me winge again....
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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Ste
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Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You couldn't haggle but they lowered the price by more than 25% without you asking? Confused

To drop the bike hard with enough force to bend the bars isn't going to happen without crashing the bike.

The tank and fairings don't matter at all right now, there's plenty which needs doing before you even think about tidying up the paint work.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
You couldn't haggle but they lowered the price by more than 25% without you asking? Confused

To drop the bike hard with enough force to bend the bars isn't going to happen without crashing the bike.

The tank and fairings don't matter at all right now, there's plenty which needs doing before you even think about tidying up the paint work.


I haggled them from 15 to 1300
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tell us that it's low mileage. Please, we need something.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chain seems neither too slack nor too tight...

That's all I got. : - |
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Tell us that it's low mileage. Please, we need something.


27 thousand miles.... so umm not low... not excessively high?
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Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
ill prolly end up crashing it, spill my brains over the road and this site wont ever have to listen to me winge again....


https://pa1.narvii.com/6142/bdc4f89a8972d09f6de883e2d2efc8399cb77af0_hq.gif
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
27 thousand miles.... so umm not low... not excessively high?


https://media.giphy.com/media/NNI0S5LQyZdQY/giphy.gif
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 30 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well........

Not done the forks just yet. We got a front stand and I've made a peg that would fit my steering column, waiting for the parts to set. Ill be working on them tomorrow...

Today the replacement brake discs turned up... And they look great and straight... will fit them to the wheel while im doing the forks...
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 21:44 - 30 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
Well........

Not done the forks just yet. We got a front stand and I've made a peg that would fit my steering column, waiting for the parts to set. Ill be working on them tomorrow...

Today the replacement brake discs turned up... And they look great and straight... will fit them to the wheel while im doing the forks...


Here's some tips:

Make sure the mounting surfaces (around the disc bolt holes) are smooth and free from corrosion (which will be a bluey-white and powdery). Use a stanley knife blade and copper brush (NOT STEEL OR ALUMINIUM) to gently remove any of it that might cause the disc not to seat properly on the mounting surface. Put a drop of blue loctite on each bolt thread before putting it in the wheel, and tighten them all in an opposite star pattern until a little more than finger tight. Then stop, and use a torque wrench to torque them up to the specified torque in the same star pattern you did before.

https://www.gore.com/sites/g/files/ypyipe116/files/2016-04/gaskets-installation-step6.gif

What I do is use an old tyre to rest the wheel on, so that the fitted disc doesn't get damaged on the floor when fitting the second disc. Wheels and brake discs are a little too fragile for my liking.

Once they are fitted, you can try to use a steel rule to see if the discs are warped, and make sure you're gentle with the bike when you first ride it. I'd probably fit a new set of brake pads while I'm at it too.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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NutsyUk
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Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 30 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
Well........

Not done the forks just yet. We got a front stand and I've made a peg that would fit my steering column, waiting for the parts to set. Ill be working on them tomorrow...

Today the replacement brake discs turned up... And they look great and straight... will fit them to the wheel while im doing the forks...


Here's some tips:

Make sure the mounting surfaces (around the disc bolt holes) are smooth and free from corrosion (which will be a bluey-white and powdery). Use a stanley knife blade and copper brush (NOT STEEL OR ALUMINIUM) to gently remove any of it that might cause the disc not to seat properly on the mounting surface. Put a drop of blue loctite on each bolt thread before putting it in the wheel, and tighten them all in an opposite star pattern until a little more than finger tight. Then stop, and use a torque wrench to torque them up to the specified torque in the same star pattern you did before.

https://www.gore.com/sites/g/files/ypyipe116/files/2016-04/gaskets-installation-step6.gif

What I do is use an old tyre to rest the wheel on, so that the fitted disc doesn't get damaged on the floor when fitting the second disc. Wheels and brake discs are a little too fragile for my liking.

Once they are fitted, you can try to use a steel rule to see if the discs are warped, and make sure you're gentle with the bike when you first ride it. I'd probably fit a new set of brake pads while I'm at it too.


Thanks for that, yeah got some thread lock in the workshop, im looking up the torque levels in the service manual...

For the most part the discs are clean... Theres a dusting of rust in a couple of spots but thats insainly minor and not in the working area. The bolt areas are clean im happy to say.

Funnily enough we have a bin thats the right diameter to hole a wheel and not touch the discs Smile

And yeah though ive not ordered any yet ill be getting new pads for these discs

Im eager to get these bits done but I must admit... Im starting to get a little nervous about the mod1 training and test... Though mostly over the weather... Its been snowing and icy cold here in Norfolk. Forcast says 8'c Sunday. So hoping it just stays dry for that time.
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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NutsyUk
Nearly there...



Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 01 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little update, good news and bad news.........

Good news, The socket i fabbed together for the front stand works and the bikes happily lifted. Brake calipers are off (that wasnt easy pulling them off, they were binding and the ware on the old discs was that bad) And final bit of good news. The bearings on the front are perfectly fine. Free moving and no side wiggle... So yeah all that stiffness was just brakes binding.

Bad news................

Ive lost my 12mm alan key Sad So it seems for now I cant actually get the wheel off.

Will keep searching but might have to order a new bit. So close... Soo sooo close to finally getting this done.
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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wots
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 01 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
Ive lost my 12mm alan key Sad So it seems for now I cant actually get the wheel off.

Will keep searching but might have to order a new bit. So close... Soo sooo close to finally getting this done.
Go down to Halfords and buy a socket, either individually or as part of the set of 6 or something. You'll thank me, the axle can get a bit of corrosion and make it difficult to remove. Half inch sockets and something to swing on MAY be required. Allen key will shred your hands/bend and achieve nothing if it's stuck. And by the sound of the (lack of) brake maintenance, the wheel probably hasn't been touched in a while. Remember though, clean it and a slither of grease before replacing!
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 01 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I'd be putting PlusGas in there now. Not into the bearing, just into whatever nuttybolts are holding the axle in place.
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NutsyUk
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Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 01 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
And I'd be putting PlusGas in there now. Not into the bearing, just into whatever nuttybolts are holding the axle in place.


I had to google that to work out what you meant...

Is that stuff liek wd40? I dont htink we have any plusgas i could ask dad and brother...
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 01 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:


I had to google that to work out what you meant...

Is that stuff liek wd40? I dont htink we have any plusgas i could ask dad and brother...


You could always go and buy some instead of depending on the obviously shit garage facilities offered by your nearest and dearest Rolling Eyes
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