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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 09 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

*points finger*

*Slaps knee*
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 21:41 - 09 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I think im cursed...

Well seals done forks are now back on the bike... I put the wheel with the new brake discs..... AAAAAAAAAND one is indeed warped ~Neutral
Evil or Very Mad

Theres about 1 mm of moment when you spin the disc.


Cue, hysterical laughter and finger pointing with the occasional knee slap...


Can you make a good pair out of the two sets? Have you got rid of all of the corrosion behind the disc? Did you tighten in the correct order?
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NutsyUk
Nearly there...



Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 09 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:


Can you make a good pair out of the two sets? Have you got rid of all of the corrosion behind the disc? Did you tighten in the correct order?


the old set are just too worn, one of these new set are fine...

I could double check tomorrow that its not just needing reseating, but I did do the star point order and I was really careful about that...

Im now considdering Arashi discs... 125 quid for a set. I know there chinese but on reading online, they seem to be a good set for chinese... just thinking about it...
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 09 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can recommend Armstrong discs - they're good stoppers and don't wear excessively. Thumbs Up
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suddenly, wild money pit appears.

If you want to try Chinese disks, go for it, but it really can be false economy.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't feel too downhearted, if you want to know what a money pit is, buy a boat. (BOAT, Bring On Another Thousand) Rolling Eyes

I would buy the Chinese discs if you are struggling with money, at least you will get back on the road.

Personally I would rather have new Chinese discs than second hand OEM's but it's a bit late to say that to you now.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I suggest that you don't spend another penny on it until and unless you actually have a licence to ride it.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Can I suggest that you don't spend another penny on it until and unless you actually have a licence to ride it.


Yeah but new bike is well sick m8, init.

Places a non-existing hypothetical bet of 1 penny that it never gets ridden. Sad
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ADSrox0r
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Joined: 23 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:


Oh, btw, it's an electric scotoiler, cause it has electrical connections. Somewhere on your bike (near the bars, probably) should be a control unit.


It's not, that's a standard V System model.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Can I suggest that you don't spend another penny on it until and unless you actually have a licence to ride it.


Savage.

But fairly accurate.
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NutsyUk
Nearly there...



Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree I dont want to spend any more... And yes Get my license first before more money goes on this....

Anyway, I reseated the disc, cleaned up the place around the bolts again and its reduced the wobble some... And i thought that solved it at first. But having a second look its still a little wobble...

Ive tried to show it in this vid, what do you think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jofwWBfKylc

I think i could get away with riding with that for a while.... but not 100% sure.
____________________
Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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Polarbear
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I agree I dont want to spend any more... And yes Get my license first before more money goes on this....

Anyway, I reseated the disc, cleaned up the place around the bolts again and its reduced the wobble some... And i thought that solved it at first. But having a second look its still a little wobble...

Ive tried to show it in this vid, what do you think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jofwWBfKylc

I think i could get away with riding with that for a while.... but not 100% sure.


You will soon tell when you try to ride it. Pulsating brake lever, vibration through the bars, juddering when you try to apply brakes. Binding when you push it around.

In other words, get new/another disc.
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 10 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

warped from being crashed, discs dont warm in a low speed drop unless vegetable.

new discs are needed
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Despined_By_Ex wrote:
warped from being crashed, discs dont warm in a low speed drop unless vegetable.


Lol what? Laughing
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think he meant "warp" not "warm".
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NutsyUk
Nearly there...



Joined: 22 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
I think he meant "warp" not "warm".


i kinda worked out that bit, I didnt understand unless vegetable?
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cauliflower is the brain of the vegetable world.

#NotAllVegetables
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well in any case, even if by that was meant simply something like going full retard, what warps a disc is binding, i.e. if the brake is stuck on, i.e. if the pistons do not return once the brake lever is let go of. Other issues can cause binding too (e.g. my mate's off-road bike got a small pebble stuck in some part of the calliper that prevented one of the pads returning - the disc became very hot, and eventually warped).

So it's unlikely the warp of the disc has been caused by an accident of any sort - far more likely the calliper is binding, i.e. the pistons are staying out once the lever is actuated and not allowing the pads to return. This isn't uncommon or at least it isn't if the bike is used throughout winter and sees a lot of wet, salty roads, and if the calliper is not removed from its mounting, and the pistons allowed to actuate such that their inner surfaces can be cleaned, ditto the areas around the pistons' recesses. But even then, even once cleaned, there is no guarantee that the dust seals and the fluid seals are in good repair. Perhaps their recessed seats are oxidised, causing them to sit too proud, thus inhibiting the pistons' return once the fluid pressure is released i.e. the brake lever returns to normal position. Etc.

You do have to have a bit of common sense and feel in these situations, by which I mean, if you know your bike, its weight, its rolling resistance even just as you piss about getting it in and out of the shed/garage, or if kept curbside, how it feels immediately when setting off and/or when coasting to a halt at junctions etc. Slight binding will create a warm rotor - and this isn't problematic in and of itself, except that it's causing unnecessary pad and disc wear (albeit in slight amounts) - more pertinently, it's probably symptomatic of reluctant pistons/worn seals/corrosion within the calliper - and this can usually only deteriorate, sometimes quite quickly. Then it's a whole world of pain cos your discs get so fucking hot they warp out of true, your lever's pulsing, the bike's a turd and your family get loaded onto a cattle train and transported to an internment camp in the dead of night. Shit like that.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
I think he meant "warp" not "warm".


I knew what he meant but discs warp for a variety of reasons - I'd have thought crashing was pretty low on the list Razz
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
I think he meant "warp" not "warm".


I knew what he meant but discs warp for a variety of reasons - I'd have thought crashing was pretty low on the list Razz


Yeah that's what he was saying - here, let me offer a brief translation - "warped from being crashed, discs dont warm in a low speed drop unless vegetable."

Warped from being crashed?!? Haha!! No fucking way - discs don't warp in a low speed drop.

FIN
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Last edited by trevor saxe-coburg-gotha on 19:12 - 11 Dec 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 11 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
I think he meant "warp" not "warm".

Engage the Warm Drive, Factor 7.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c3/Worm_Gear.gif/220px-Worm_Gear.gif
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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