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Best place to get affordable Brake Discs?

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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Best place to get affordable Brake Discs? Reply with quote

I dare say cheap as i want them to be decent quality :p but as i mentioned on my other threads the discs on the new er6f bike are rather worn and could do with being replaced.

So Wheres a good place to get affordable disc brakes?

Theres loads of cheap ones on Ali Express... but... you know... china...

If there is any decent sets though on Ali, let me know Smile

But if you know anywhere to get decent ones... let me know that too Smile

Thankes
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 17:53 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd only buy OEM or from a reputable aftermarket manufacturer.

My TDM Discs lasted 80k miles. £300 for new ones was a no brainer. Brakes aren't worth skimping on IMO.

If you are skint get SH OEM ones.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

fair enough... yeah i wasnt sure...

SH OEM? Whats SH?
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
fair enough... yeah i wasnt sure...

SH OEM? Whats SH?


Second hand.

+1 to OEM discs, whilst I'm here.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
fair enough... yeah i wasnt sure...

SH OEM? Whats SH?


Second hand.

+1 to OEM discs, whilst I'm here.


*puts on his dunce hat for being stupid*

Yeah im looking at second hand ones... A front set still looks to be about 100 quid... And they look like theyre pretty worn tatty and really bleh :/
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't be too adverse to fitting Chinese rotors but I would be keeping a damn good eye on them to see how they wore.

I would probably use organic pads with them rather than sintered as well.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You measured them to see how worn they actually are? There will be a minimum thickness on the disc somewhere.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You measured them to see how worn they actually are? There will be a minimum thickness on the disc somewhere.


Not measured them but theres a good 2mm dip from the flat edge of the disk and the tips...
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grab a pair of those wavey lazer cut ones, I bought one for my cb250 and does the job. I don't normally buy aftermarket because 90per cent of the time aftermarket is fucking crap. However a gave it try and saved £60, in the past tried EBC a few times but they always seem to be warped and my bike shop stopped selling them for that reason.

Got the wavey disc off Ebay.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 21 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fowlers
Sportsbikeshop
Wemoto
kawasakioriginalparts (that's a UK based shop that I've used and would order from again and again).

Source list I've accumulated over the past year.
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:

Wemoto


Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Courier265 wrote:
Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


Each to their own, depends what you're ordering.

Only issue I had with them was a rear brake switch that didn't work as advertised (generic one it seems that was, I think, too short to function properly).
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Courier265 wrote:
Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


Each to their own, depends what you're ordering.

Only issue I had with them was a rear brake switch that didn't work as advertised (generic one it seems that was, I think, too short to function properly).


I only order genuine parts and my brake cleaner from wemoto, their aftermarket stuff is terrible..
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Courier265 wrote:
I only order genuine parts and my brake cleaner from wemoto, their aftermarket stuff is terrible..


Genuine parts was my problem. The switch was advertised for my model of bike but went potato nonetheless. Ordered from kwakoriginalparts and no problems since I fitted it.
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

op

if you cant afford oe at the mo but want to change them surely aftermarket cheapish (not cheapest) ones will do for a while until you can afford the better ones in the future

even if they last six months or so its better then worrying for now
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 09:43 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a question and this thread seems a suitable one...

Is there any issue using an aftermarket disc one side of the wheel and OEM on the other?
Asking for a friend who has a tendancy to smash a disc lock into his and bend the disc. Laughing
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have always bought EBC and had no issues.

The one and only time I didn't, they were fucking awful. Armstrong wavy things. They were shite. Lasted ~4000 miles, wailed like a banshee for the entire time. Possibly a dodgy set.
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Dalemac
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If wavey isn't an issue for you, try https://www.blackshadow-uk.co.uk

Don't be put off by the retro website. Phone them up and talk to them. Very knowledgeable, decent people. Disks are made in Wales, too.
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:
Here's a question and this thread seems a suitable one...

Is there any issue using an aftermarket disc one side of the wheel and OEM on the other?
Asking for a friend who has a tendancy to smash a disc lock into his and bend the disc. Laughing


Slightly different materials may offer different coefficients of friction, different thickness' could invite a different levels of bite, different wear rates could alter performance across axle.
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Last edited by haroman666 on 13:20 - 22 Nov 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

WeMoto: OEM £162 per disc. Pattern part £116 per disc (wavy).

Ebay: EBC £127 per disc. Pre-owned (wavy) £80 - £96 for a pair.

Depends how hard up you are, but I'd go with the new pattern parts from WeMoto for the sake of £130 if I was keeping the bike for 2 years or more?

Edit: Used ones may or may not have been inspected for warping. You could send them back of course, but that's hassle I don't need.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 12:43 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baffler186 wrote:
WeMoto: OEM £162 per disc. Pattern part £116 per disc (wavy).

Ebay: EBC £127 per disc. Pre-owned (wavy) £80 - £96 for a pair.

Depends how hard up you are, but I'd go with the new pattern parts from WeMoto for the sake of £130 if I was keeping the bike for 2 years or more?

Edit: Used ones may or may not have been inspected for warping. You could send them back of course, but that's hassle I don't need.



Or go to Fowlers where it is £117-£128 for an OEM disc Wink

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5597599/sv650s-k8-l0-08-10-2008-2010/front-wheel-abs-models

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5597600/sv650s-k8-l0-08-10-2008-2010/front-wheel-non-abs
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kgm
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.planet-er6.co.uk

https://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com

And wemoto are the ones I use most frequently. I also use fowlers but usually for Honda parts if David Silver is out of stock.

I also normally go with OEM brake disks but use EBC pads (replace pads and disks at the same time) as they are better than the stock er6 pads. I have an EBC disk on the back at the moment though. Works absolutely fine but gets to look rusty very quickly if it gets wet and I leave the bike sitting for more than overnight if that bothers you.

I don't fancy used ones - they're likely taken off for a reason such as a bike that's been in a smash and I don't expect they'll have been checked for warping in most cases. Might just have been removed to fit more stylish ones but I reckon that's the minority.

Wee tip regarding the er6 - if it's a 2009-2011 model or older and the fork tops are flush with the yoke lifting them 5-10mm makes a big difference to the steering feel. I did this a few weeks back after owning the bike for over 3 years and really wish I'd done it sooner. Steers more lightly and more predictably now and is much easier to adjust mid bend. Stability is no worse. Its a common change thats often recommended. Might benefit the later model's too but I don't know if the geometry is different. The new ninja 650 comes this way as standard but is it course substancially different. Also grease the stick coils next time you remove them as they tend to corrode and get stuck.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dalemac wrote:
If wavey isn't an issue for you, try https://www.blackshadow-uk.co.uk

Don't be put off by the retro website. Phone them up and talk to them. Very knowledgeable, decent people. Disks are made in Wales, too.



They are the company that don't believe in, and therefore don't warranty against their discs warping:
https://blackshadow-uk.co.uk/Fitting.html

Quote:
Many riders confuse rotor warping, or warped rotors, with a condition called DTV (disc thickness variation). DTV occurs when a vehicle brakes are serviced and the brake rotor has runout in excess of 0.08mm . This runout causes the pads to contact the rotor when the vehicle is being driven "off brake" and after 3-4000 miles( Sometimes Much less), a thin spot develops on the rotor. The rotor runout itself does not actually cause a vibration. It is the effect of the thickness variation of the brake disc or brake rotor under braking that causes pulsation. Even small thickness variations such as 0.012mm or 0.0005" will exhibit itself as pulsation. A warped rotor is a very rare occurrence and in many years in business, we have seen no genuine cases of warped brake rotors.

The general guideline is that if the vibration happens immediately after install, there is a quite severe runout problem that needs looking into. Brake discs or rotors should be mounted on flat smooth rust and dirt free hub flanges without the use of coppaslip which includes small particles which have the same effect as dirt. Remember that even a small particle of 0.001" under the rotor surface can cause a deviation of 0.005 at the pad contact point.



Semi floating and fully floating discs are designed to have some "Free" movement to allow for heat expansion of the rotor.



An Example Your wheel turns once every 1.9mtrs thats 842 turns per mile or

842104 turns per 1000 miles. If there is any runout Irregularity, on every turn of the wheel, a minute amount of material is taken off the high spot as the caliper does not retract the pistons fully each time the brakes are applied. In Time this will wear a thin spot altering the Parallel flatness which then CANNOT be remedied, only by stripping and Re-machining the Rotor

Even a particle of DUST can measure .0005"


If the vibration happens after 3-4000 miles and sometimes Much less, this is a clear indication that DTV has occurred which is not a warranty condition. The only solution for this is to remove the brake rotor, have it re-machined if possible, or replace it with a new rotor.

Every case of "Warped Discs" reported to us has been caused by NOT checking the Run-out when fitting.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 22 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:


Wee tip regarding the er6 - if it's a 2009-2011 model or older and the fork tops are flush with the yoke lifting them 5-10mm makes a big difference to the steering feel. I did this a few weeks back after owning the bike for over 3 years and really wish I'd done it sooner. Steers more lightly and more predictably now and is much easier to adjust mid bend. Stability is no worse. Its a common change thats often recommended. Might benefit the later model's too but I don't know if the geometry is different. The new ninja 650 comes this way as standard but is it course substancially different. Also grease the stick coils next time you remove them as they tend to corrode and get stuck.


Thanks for the tips there, Yeah the its flush I can always drop the steering bits lower... One thing I am also having to consider is new chrome shafts as these are a little corroded and rusty... more so at the tops. I think I might just repair the seal first though as its the cheapest option...

I must say though 112 or so PER disc is still D:

Oh and its a 2007 er6f
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Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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