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T250tut |
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T250tut L Plate Warrior
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Freddyfruitba... |
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Freddyfruitba... World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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Robby |
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Robby Dirty Old Man
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jeffyjeff |
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jeffyjeff World Chat Champion
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oilrag |
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oilrag Derestricted Danger
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martin734 |
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martin734 Spanner Monkey
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Posted: 13:24 - 09 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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C250RS? I think that is the CBR250. I could well be wrong though, I often am ____________________ Current bike: ST1100 "Big Red" |
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Robby |
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Robby Dirty Old Man
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Posted: 13:58 - 09 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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martin734 wrote: | C250RS? I think that is the CBR250. I could well be wrong though, I often am |
More likely the CB250RS, a single cylinder 250 that was made around 1980-83. The problem the OP is referencing is something I'm familiar with, having drilled out that same seized bolt.
JeffyJeff is correct on both counts. From my experience of looking at the split cases, they were cast and then line-bored for crank and gearbox shafts to line up. That said, pretty sure they were die-cast rather than sand, so one shouldn't be that different from another. Roller bearing crank too, so a minute difference between cases is unlikely to cause a problem.
Getting it welded up should be straightforward. There is nothing directly behind the front section of the crankcase, I don't think it has any internal oil feeds or anything there - it's just a straight wall of alloy for oil to splash on when it gets thrown off the crank.
Still, it's a full engine strip to get there. Take pictures as you take it apart, and be very careful about where any gearbox shims go. The neutral selector switch is a fragile little thing and no longer available from Honda, and the kickstart return spring is a bit of a pain in the arse.
On reassembly, pattern base and head gaskets tend to be shit, but pattern side panel gaskets are good. The crankcase halves and the rocker cover are only sealed with sealant. This is a good opportunity to get some decent modern sealant in there, the rocker covers leak otherwise. Can be a good idea to just go round the engine and helicoil every single M5 or M6 hole you can find, the engine is made is very soft alloy and those threads strip really easily.
Alternatively, used engines come up for reasonable money fairly frequently, and there is also a market for broken engine to fix. Might be cheaper to sell your broken one and buy a working one. |
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T250tut |
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T250tut L Plate Warrior
Joined: 08 Feb 2021 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 3 years, 78 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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