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T250tut
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Feb 2021
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: New member Old problem Reply with quote

HI All
Bought a new to me C250 rs cheap - or now I have found the reason its cheap :0) seems a common fault but the front lower engine bolt is seized in the mounting and previous owner has cracked the lower crankcase trying to shift it...........

Is it possible to just flip the engine and take the lower case of to swap or do you have to start at the rocker box and work downwards??
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: Re: New member Old problem Reply with quote

T250tut wrote:
HI All
Bought a new to me C250 rs cheap - or now I have found the reason its cheap :0) seems a common fault but the front lower engine bolt is seized in the mounting and previous owner has cracked the lower crankcase trying to shift it...........

Is it possible to just flip the engine and take the lower case of to swap or do you have to start at the rocker box and work downwards??

Pardon me. What is a "C250"?
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: Re: New member Old problem Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
What is a "C250"?

Presumably...

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a3/Honda_CB250RS.jpg

... but unfortunately its far too many decades since I had my one in bits to be able to answer the OP sensibly
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: T Reply with quote

Go have a look on CMSNL which may help.

Some bikes it is possible to remove the engine, neccessary components then the sump, leaving head on and crank in and gearbox, but how does your engine split, vertical or horizontal.

CMSNL will show you.

Post up a link to your exact bike on CMSNL...
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Last edited by bikenut on 18:14 - 08 Feb 2021; edited 1 time in total
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: T Reply with quote

The power of CMSNL......

CB250rs seems to have a horizontally split crankcase, well it means less oil leaks I suppose not that I had that problem with brit bikes I fixed....

So it may well be possible to remove the lower half, but be prepared to remove all the side bits....get a manual dude, even the Haynes book of Lies will help.

The bike in question is a four stroke ? Yes ?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is a CB250RS, then I know them well. You need to start at the top and work down. Get the haynes manual, the bottom end is surprisingly busy. I avoid splitting the cases unless I absolutely have to. In this case, you have to.

Usually the problem is because someone fitted crashbars with a longer, stainless bolt. The alloy corrodes around the stainless and grips tight. Annoying it got so far as to break the cases, because you can remove the engine with that mounting plate attached, just unbolt it from the frame.

Also check the lower frame parts between the footpegs. They like to rot away down there.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like a pretty old design. A quick wiki search shows the last ones were produced almost 36 years ago. Two questions. 1) can the crankcase halves be mixed and matched? I'm thinking the webs for the bearing bores might misalign. 2) Might it be possible for the OP to take the afflicted case half to a competent aluminum welder and have it welded up without too much distortion? (assuming the damaged area does not include any precision machined surfaces).
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Last edited by jeffyjeff on 23:52 - 08 Feb 2021; edited 1 time in total
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oilrag
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 08 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the exact model and year? Can you put up a few pictures of the crack. That would be helpful. Is it leaking oil or not?
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martin734
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 09 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

C250RS? I think that is the CBR250. I could well be wrong though, I often am Confused
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 09 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

martin734 wrote:
C250RS? I think that is the CBR250. I could well be wrong though, I often am Confused


More likely the CB250RS, a single cylinder 250 that was made around 1980-83. The problem the OP is referencing is something I'm familiar with, having drilled out that same seized bolt.


JeffyJeff is correct on both counts. From my experience of looking at the split cases, they were cast and then line-bored for crank and gearbox shafts to line up. That said, pretty sure they were die-cast rather than sand, so one shouldn't be that different from another. Roller bearing crank too, so a minute difference between cases is unlikely to cause a problem.

Getting it welded up should be straightforward. There is nothing directly behind the front section of the crankcase, I don't think it has any internal oil feeds or anything there - it's just a straight wall of alloy for oil to splash on when it gets thrown off the crank.

Still, it's a full engine strip to get there. Take pictures as you take it apart, and be very careful about where any gearbox shims go. The neutral selector switch is a fragile little thing and no longer available from Honda, and the kickstart return spring is a bit of a pain in the arse.

On reassembly, pattern base and head gaskets tend to be shit, but pattern side panel gaskets are good. The crankcase halves and the rocker cover are only sealed with sealant. This is a good opportunity to get some decent modern sealant in there, the rocker covers leak otherwise. Can be a good idea to just go round the engine and helicoil every single M5 or M6 hole you can find, the engine is made is very soft alloy and those threads strip really easily.

Alternatively, used engines come up for reasonable money fairly frequently, and there is also a market for broken engine to fix. Might be cheaper to sell your broken one and buy a working one.
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T250tut
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PostPosted: 23:41 - 14 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers guys - yep its the CB 250 rs - a four stroke single
I have bought another bottom end and it came with kick start and selector drum in place ..... looking at it cos I havnt parted mine yet id does look like the top end could stay in place the only awkward bit will be the balancer chain........

I have 30 years on 2 T but this is my first 4 stroke so keep the advice coming please :0) and I have bought a Haynes form flea bay
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