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AGM batteries: not worth it?

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solemnwarning
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Joined: 23 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: AGM batteries: not worth it? Reply with quote

Went to start my GS500 this morning, couldn't turn over fast enough to catch, wound up jump starting off my car. Its been getting noticably harder to start over the past few days.

Battery is an AGM battery made by Motobatt, bought last October for £51.70, been used most days since its my commuter.

Should I just get the cheapest conventional battery I can find? Are they likely to last much less time?

Thanks
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a Yuasa for reliability. On the other hand my friend runs a Motobatt (yellow 12v) in his 919RR and it's been 5 years since he put it there.

So you might just have been unlucky. Is your charging system working properly?

Are you in the EU? 24 months warranty.

*Not sure about UK and warranty, Embarassed

EDIT II: The internet Thinking
Quote:
For the next six months, you are entitled to replacement or repair of the goods. It is up to the retailer to prove there was nothing wrong with it if they wish to get out of having to do the work. And then after six months, there is still a duty to replace or repair faulty goods, but the onus is on you, the consumer, to prove that there was something wrong.
And the key time span is six years. That's how long goods may be covered by the Sale of Goods Act. It all depends on what "sufficiently durable" means. If a light bulb goes after 13 months, the consumer is not going to be overly gutted. If their washing machine goes after the same time span they are going to be livid.


EDIT III: This looks interesting: https://www.europe-consommateurs.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/eu-consommateurs/PDFs/PDF_EN/REPORT-_GUARANTEE/tableau_EN_Legal_commercial.pdf
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 11:42 - 28 Nov 2017; edited 5 times in total
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll check the charging system tonight. Lights flicker noticeably at tickover and stabilise as the engine spins up, its always done that, I put it down to budget alternator/regulator.

Battery came from an eBay distributor (still new in box), would I be able to claim the warranty direct from Motobatt? Without a receipt?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
Battery came from an eBay distributor (still new in box), would I be able to claim the warranty direct from Motobatt? Without a receipt?


I very doubt that.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
I'll check the charging system tonight. Lights flicker noticeably at tickover and stabilise as the engine spins up, its always done that, I put it down to budget alternator/regulator.

Battery came from an eBay distributor (still new in box), would I be able to claim the warranty direct from Motobatt? Without a receipt?


Should still be listed in your ebay purchase history. Use that as proof of purchase date.
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Borrowed a voltmeter and checked it in the car park, charging system is working fine.

Now to try and find a local Motobatt dealer...
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
Borrowed a voltmeter and checked it in the car park, charging system is working fine.

[citation needed]

Relevant to my interests as I've just last week put a Motobatt AGM into the Nazi Tractor. It needs a good old crank to get past compression, I hope I'm not going to be left futilely fingering my little button when it's cold.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used motobatts for years they usually give me at least 5 years service.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I've used motobatts for years they usually give me at least 5 years service.


To echo that. The resting voltage of the Westco AGM battery I fitted to my VFR750 is starting to drop. I fitted that in July 2012.
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never heard anything bad about Motobatt's most likely this battery was a dud.

I always use Yuasa batteries and I've had a couple of dud one's over the decades.

Buy another motobatt Razz
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arry
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

Relevant to my interests as I've just last week put a Motobatt AGM into the Nazi Tractor. It needs a good old crank to get past compression, I hope I'm not going to be left futilely fingering my little button when it's cold.


It'll be fine. A motobatt is currently spinning over my KTM just fine and as you've no doubt read, they're a bit of a pig in cold weather.
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having trouble finding information on Motobatt (local battery place had never heard of them). Tried the seller I got it from and "unfortunately" they only offer a one year warranty.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you quantify how fine the charging system is?
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
Having trouble finding information on Motobatt (local battery place had never heard of them). Tried the seller I got it from and "unfortunately" they only offer a one year warranty.


If you buy another, get it from a proper website, Wemoto and M+P sell them.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a Mottobat in my 1300 for about three years. No issues. I connect to a Ctek when the bike is in the garage.

But Yuasa is a very reliable battery too.

And your heading lacks depth of tech.

'Conventional' Lead acid batteries and shite compared to a good AGM for many many reasons I am not prepared to list. Smile

Look at the specs and decide.

Batteries are bit of a living thing and do need to be treated with some respect throughout their life.
The AGM will take more abuse than the 'normal' type but they are broken if pushed too hard.
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Can you quantify how fine the charging system is?


As is usual, I'm full of shit.

Did a proper check in the comfort of my shed right after starting just now: at idle the system was fluctuating around 12v, from ~2500RPM to 7000RPM it seemed to be fluctuating between 13-13.3v.

Will check/clean alternator connections, if that makes no difference... bad regulator?
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a Nazi Tractor as well. I've used Motobatt batteries before but the one I fitted last year expired after three months use. The ebay seller easily provided a replacement all I had to send them back was the "lid" of the battery (I assume this was so that they could claim their own refund from their supplier)

ZD
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never actually had a charging system fault before, so broke out the Haynes manual and worked through the checks...

The book says the resistance between each phase of the alternator should be zero, I read 1ohm between each. The book also says there should be at least 75v between each phase at 5,000RPM, I read 62.5v between each phase.

Within acceptable limits or pooched? Seems odd that each phase would have exactly the same amount of wrongness.
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 19:16 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooo-er, above my karma grade.

Maybe Tef can help?













Whistle
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Ooo-er, above my karma grade.

Maybe Tef can help?













Whistle


The Borger invokes The Tef.

Smile
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
Can you quantify how fine the charging system is?


As is usual, I'm full of shit.

Did a proper check in the comfort of my shed right after starting just now: at idle the system was fluctuating around 12v, from ~2500RPM to 7000RPM it seemed to be fluctuating between 13-13.3v.

Will check/clean alternator connections, if that makes no difference... bad regulator?


One of your windings of the stator might be dead. Not that rare. There are 3 windings and you need at least 2 to make some electricity. Meaning with one dead, the stator will still work, but with rather reduced power output.

Unplugg the stator (seek 3 yellow wires).
Start the engine and check AC voltage between those 3 yellow wires (go A + B, then A + C, then B + C, you get the idea, don't you?). You're going to see between 30V and 60V (those are average values, not specific to your bike). If you see no voltage at all = dead.

The regulator and rectifier tend to be one unit. The regulator might fail (not your case), but I have personaly never seen this happening on the modern type of Reg/Rec unit, meaning the regulator failing while the rectifier being alright. Regulator failure results in overcharging.
Now, important stuff to know, the rectifier is a diode and transformes AC to DC. If this diode is burned = no voltage will pass it = no charging whatsoever. As you get DC voltage at your battery at high revs, it is alright.

I personally don't do the resistance test, if I still can test the stator in a running engine. The voltage test is much easier, for me at least. There's either AC voltage or not.

NOTE: Make sure you have the multimeter set to AC to test the stator's output

https://blog.banggood.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/AC-and-DC-e1432620580653.png


----------------------
IF everything is fine, then you have a significant shorting somewhere on the bike. Not good, not good at all. That's the stuff that puts more stress on your electrical system. So do as you said, clean everything, while checking things around. No white and definitely no green colour and rust on any electrical contacts!
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 19:48 - 28 Nov 2017; edited 6 times in total
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iooi
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="RhynoCZ"]
EDIT II: The internet Thinking
Quote:
For the next six months, you are entitled to replacement or repair of the goods. It is up to the retailer to prove there was nothing wrong with it if they wish to get out of having to do the work. And then after six months, there is still a duty to replace or repair faulty goods, but the onus is on you, the consumer, to prove that there was something wrong.
And the key time span is six years. That's how long goods may be covered by the Sale of Goods Act. It all depends on what "sufficiently durable" means. If a light bulb goes after 13 months, the consumer is not going to be overly gutted. If their washing machine goes after the same time span they are going to be livid.


UK regs.

Quote:

Six months or more

If a fault develops after the first six months, the burden is on you to prove that the product was faulty at the time of delivery.

In practice, this may require some form of expert report, opinion or evidence of similar problems across the product range.

Find out more about how to return a faulty item and claim a refund, repair or replacement from a retailer.

You have six years to take a claim to the small claims court for faulty goods in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, and five years in Scotland.

This doesn't mean that a product has to last six years - just that you have this length of time in which to make a claim if a retailer refuses to repair or replace a faulty product.


Note that here you would be looking at a small claim court... For £51.70 Rolling Eyes
That is after getting a report that it was faulty.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:
Warranty stuff...


What's the 6 years period for, then?
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solemnwarning
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my haste to report my findings on the stator, I hadn't seen the table of expected resistances between pins of the regulator/rectifier.

Mine don't line up with what the manual says they should, each pin combination is either infinite resistance or brief continuity (too brief to read on my cheap meter) followed by infinite resistance. Assuming the readings I see are some internal capacitors charging up.

Worrisome?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 28 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

solemnwarning wrote:
In my haste to report my findings on the stator, I hadn't seen the table of expected resistances between pins of the regulator/rectifier.

Mine don't line up with what the manual says they should, each pin combination is either infinite resistance or brief continuity (too brief to read on my cheap meter) followed by infinite resistance. Assuming the readings I see are some internal capacitors charging up.

Worrisome?


TL; DR, read my post, do that! Even the cheapest and crappiest multimeter will give you the answers in a matter of seconds.
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