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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 30 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember, field coil alternators have contacting parts. They have to have carbon brushes and rails to transmit the power to the rotor coils. These can wear out, become fouled with carbon or break.

Actually, the regulator is often electro-mechanical too. Kind of like a set of points. They can fail but can usually be fixed.

On a magnetic alternator, there are no touching parts.

I'm pretty sure field coil ones are cheaper to make. A magentic rotor often costs more than a stator. RARE earth magnets.

So neither is particularly better than the other in my experience.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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smegballs
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 30 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my perspective as an electronic hobbyist the field ones are easier to make a DIY regulator with. Just have to sense voltage and control a relatively tame field current, all at DC with a nice seperate rectifier section.

Permanent magnet stylee and you start playing around with high currents and AC; which, given my inability to play with complex numbers, gets more tricky.

Admittedly not a consideration for the 99% of bikers who's reaction to a failed RR is to just buy a new one, not pick up the soldering iron.
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