Advice needed - Honda vision issues

[AlterBridge]

Hi guys, newbie here, i'll try to keep this as short as I can.

Basically, my Honda Vision 110 scooter has been causing me some problems lately and I need some help and advice on what may be wrong.

A basic history of the bike... Bought it off my auntie in January of this year when it had 8000 miles on the clock, was clean as a whistle, sounded great, passed it's MOT with no issues. I've done 9000 miles on it in the past 10 months since then and it was running well until the drivebelt snapped 2 weeks back on the way home from work.

Had the belt replaced by a well respected bike shop near my house, who are also a specialised Honda dealer. The mechanic replaced the rollers as well as they were worn too. Now, since then, the bike has struggled to reach 50mph when it used to do 55-60mph before the belt snapped. Also, the bike sounds rougher in it's engine note. Whereas before when it sounded smooth and felt smooth, now it sounds a bit 'throaty' and I can feel a lot of vibration under my seat and feet when I give it some throttle. It also judders between 0-10mph. This became that bad on my way home from work the other day that I was convinced that it was going to give up at any moment!

I took it back to the bike shop yesterday and told them about how rough it felt. I was thinking it may be a clutch issue or engine problem. Anyway, they road tested it and much to my surprise, they said it seemed to feel ok to them and he checked it over and couldn't find anything wrong.

The mechanic there has over 30 years experience and should know what he's talking about. So i'm puzzled as to what could be wrong with it. I ride the bike every day to work so I know when it's not feeling right. I know there is something wrong but I don't know where to start with it.

Sorry for such a long winded message! Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated as it's really starting to bother me.

Edit: It's a 2012 model.

[Teflon-Mike]

You have put more miles on it, in a year, than it had acquired in the four before.... and one has to suspect that those have probably been rather more 'harsh' miles as well. Fact that the drive belt went in that time, also gives clue, its seen more and likely more heavy handed use in your care than your aunties.

Dealer's? Tend not to like little bikes. They aren't exiting and they aren't expensive; and owners tend to be rather reluctant to pay what seems very expensive maintenance and repair costs, compared to the relatively low value of the machine, usually after they have tried to avoid such costs either ignoring basic routine maintenance until something breaks, and / or trying to fix it DIY, often badly, is at all, and only turning to the dealer when they have made a mess of it. So I wouldn't put to much store by how much experience a dealer-mechanic may have or claim; it could be a heck of a lot of experience finding excuses to fob off newbies so they can work on big-bikes, where the owner is less likely to argue over the bill!

The 'difference' between what it was like when you got it, and what its like now. You say dealer says it seems 'fine'... this may be a fob-off as he doesn't want to waste time & effort on t for an argument over charges; this may be that in comparison to most examples he sees, t IS fine... or at least not bad, just that before 'fix' it was for some reason 'better'... and better than the usual example.

As described, the bike topping out at a lower speed... very common for CBT newbies to struggle to get top-speed out of their bike, prone to short-shifting gears, changing up too many, too early, and then expecting all the speed to come in top when they open the throttle, and the motor is starting from so low in the rev range it just doesn't have the low down 'stomp' to accelerate to where it may have the power to go any faster. Anything that saps a but of speed then will make this tendency worse, and a new, tight, drive belt,may be just enough to make that sort of difference, until its 'bedded in'.

May NOT... but user error is by far the most likely cause of any problem, especially when the user is a CBT newbie, with very little experience or know-how of how things aught to be, or aught be used.

Problems also tend to not be a simple single issue. It is more usual that when a problem has progressed to a stage a user, even more so a new user, actually notices it, what they are observing is not a single problem, but the cumulative effect of a number of them.....

You rode however umpety thousand miles before the drive belt snapped... what 9K you say? That little bike, should have had an oil change every 1000 miles or so and its tappets adjusted every 2000 or so..... should probably have had two or three new spark plugs in that time too... have you done or had done ANY basic routine maintenance in that time?

Starting at the top, I would discount the replaced drive-belt as a red-herring. May have some small bearing on the matter, it may not. But you wont find a problem jumping to conclusions. You find the problem, starting at the beginning and positively eliminating possible issues.

Grab a copy of the owners manual and the Haynes; find the section on user maintenance, and do EVERYTHING on the list. Starting with changing the oil and spark-plug; adjustig the tappet clearances, cleaning the air-filter, oiling the control cables, adjusting the brake shoes if drums, checking pads on discs, and the float mounts, checkng tres checking tyre pressures, etc etc etc... A-N-D you DIY... to SURE that it is done, and you know that it is done.... confidence you cant buy sending it to a dealer...

THE you work from there... likely that issus will just g away, and you may not even know what caused them.... things like back brakes slightly dragging can cause a bike to be slow and use more fuel, and that sort of thing should dissapear from a good clean and adjustment super-service.... and it is the sort of thing that can be put out of adjustment when a drive chain/belt is replaced, begging the wheel with brake in it be removed.... BUT that doesn't mean jump on that idea, work down the list, and do the whole job, from the top, make it ALL good... like I said, so often its not a 'single' fault but culmination of many...

So go do the stuff, I would hazard you haven't in what is a pretty high mileage for a year; drag the thing out of likely mantenance over-draft, and in the process, probably 'fix' the problem by accident; if not, have a base line for further dagnostics, and either way, dodge more potential cluster-duck issues in the future, when other problems conspire to make themselves known.

THAT is where I would start, if I had the bike in-front of me.. and I would sorry, but pay little heed to your ideas and suggestions of what you 'think' is wrong... whether you think right or not, would want to see for myself and work on what see, NOT on at est, a second hand report..... But I don't have the bike in-front of me... so sorry, cant give you a definitive diagnosis by voodoo... you DO have the bike in-front of you... so down to you, to do what I cat.. and start at the top, ignoring your own 'ideas' of what you 'think' may be wrong, and working down the list, finding 'facts' eliminating, in turn, the things that 'could' be wrong, until something sorts it...
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[cb1rocket]

the jugger suggests the front pulley rollers haven't been replaced or replaced correctly. I wouldn't expect more than 50mph out of a Honda Vision, there not made for speed.
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[bassmastergen...]

IME juddering at low speed on a CVT equipped scooter is nearly always down to glazed clutch shoes. You can remove the rear wheel, and the clutch bell and clean the glaze off the shoes with a bit of emery paper, or you can employ the ghetto method, which goes: start scooter, wedge front wheel against kerb, hold both brakes on, and rev knackers off scooter until you can smell burning from the rear clutch.

As to the increased vibration, they most likely shoe-horned the new belt over the pulleys instead of installing it properly, distorting it in the process. Main dealers are untrustworthy, lying incompetents in the main, and there's no way I'd trust one to work on my ride. If you must use a garage to fix your bike, find a local independent shop that's been recommended by others.

Better yet, have a look on YouTube - there are plenty of videos explaining how the CVT works. If I can repair and maintain one, you can.

[stevo as b4]

You need to strip the transmission again yourself and check all the parts carefully. It sounds 90% certain to me that it's a belt/rollers or variator pulleys issue that's causing you problem.

If it were an engine problem, youd have other symptoms like hard starting, cutting out etc. And a really thorough service would bring it all back to to spec.

Its entirely possible that the replacement belt and or roller weights were the wrong ones, or fitted incorrectly by the dealer. Also it could be that the variator pulleys are worn or grooved which could limit the overall gearing ratio.

CVT's are simple in concept, and not hard to work on, but there's alot of parts still in the transmission, and they all have to be in good condition and of the correct spec to work as they should do.

I've had experience of using the wrong belt on a scooter and how it can affect top speed or acceleration.

Also some numpties think that different weight rollers affect top speed, and go putting the wrong ones in thinking they are making improvements etc.