Oil filter torque spec - service manual or filter rating?

[daws0n]

Hey guys

Following on from my previous post I spent the afternoon changing the oil and filter on my ER-5... A 40 mile run down the motorway sorted out the oil misting and the job went smoothly.

Quick question - the oil filter I've installed is an aftermarket HIFlo... The torque spec printed on the filter is 12nm, so that's what I went with when installing. However cross referencing with my haynes and kawasaki manuals, they both advise a higher setting (17nm).

Is it ok to leave as-is or should I tighten it a little more?

[ADSrox0r]

Hand tight, that's all you ever want for oil filters. Dab of oil around the seal, get a good grip preferably with a pair of 'grippy' gloves and tighten it as much as you can by hand, no more.

Tools are for removing oil filters, not fitting.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[daws0n]

Yep did that - gasket coated prior to installation and I also spent a while cleaning all the muck and salt from the engine head around the old filter before I took it off - could really do with some compressed air for that in future. It took considerable force to remove but came off smoothly once the seal broke.

Hmm the bike manual says "tighten the oil filter with an oil wrench" and haynes "install the filter and tighten to amount listed in chapter specifications" (both 17nm). I will err on the side of caution and leave it at 12nm just incase... Hopefully no harm done.

In future is it best to ignore the guidance and tighten by hand only?

[Islander]

Yep, tighten by hand as described after lightly coating the rubber washer with clean oil. If you notice any weeping just give it a tweak.

The wrench is useful for getting the old filters off though

[daws0n]

Will do

Yes having a metal socket is great for getting it off, well worth the money. I tried doing the same on my XJR using a wrap around strap and it was rubbish - just ended up distorting the housing and made a right old mess! Much easier this way.

[ADSrox0r]

To be perfectly honest, any oil filer that has given me grief in the act of removal over the years gets a philips screwdriver rammed through it and forced off. It's going in the bin anyway so there's no need to give it a ceremonial burial, stab it twist it and rip it off.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[RedRooster]

Definatly agree with the above best not to over tighten could cause issues in future
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motorbikes. Honda Cg125 1972/Honda Cg125 2001/Suzuki Ts185 1979/Honda C90 1979/Honda Cb125s 1972/Yamaha ty80 1975/honda xr250 1984

[Beehive Bedlam]

Oil filters I have put on myself don't require tools to remove them they simply come off the same way they went on via my hand.

When I bought my Fazer the previous tightend the filter so much I had to whack a screwdriver through and use it as a lever but even then it came off in two bits two very sharp bits.

[bamt]

Be interesting to see how much torque hand tight is on an oil filter. It's how I always do them too, but assuming reasonable access you can get a pretty good grip on them and 12Nm isn't particularly tight for something so large.

[mudcow007]

becareful if your using the old "ol screwdriver" removal trick, the metal becomes razor sharp

[davebike]

The other problem with the ram a screwdriver though it is as several customers have found over the years is if you don't suck seed the bike is immobile !

Try everything else first unless you used the ram a screwdriver method before!!
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[ADSrox0r]

It's worth investing in a pair of oil filter grips tbh, gets em off every time.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[MCN]

I know that Kawasaki state a specific procedure for fitting oil filters. That involves using a tool to tighten the filter. Very very bastirt tight to get off.. 😠

Generally, clean mating faces, smear clean engine oil around seal surface, spin on until seal contacts filter base surface, turn an additional 3/4 turn. (Access may require a tool).
Run engine and check filter for leaks. If leaking tighten a bit more and re-check.

Ramming a spike through filter for removal is a cool idea but there is a tiny issue with this method. The old filter is destroyed in the process. If your new filter is does not fit you are fcuked. Unless you can get the bus, taxi or your mum to take you to the dealer, bike shop for the correct part.
Filters rammed on using tools are usually very tight to get off again.
And an old filter can be reused if in dire need (and you have not crushed its ribs in getting it off).
Just let it drain completely and fit a new one ASAP.
Problem: Some filter systems have a bypass so oil can still get to vital parts if the filter is choked with 'stuff'. The reasoning for this is that 'Some oil is better than None oil'.

Waits for hail of argument.

🤣
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Fizzer Thou]

Bikes with spin on oil filters vary enormously and the space around the filter will dictate how easy or difficult they are to access.Some will be easier to install than to uninstall,and vice-versa.I know of at least one bike with an after market exhaust fitted,where it is easier to remove it so as to gain access.

One tip I would advise on is to prime the new oil filter before installation.You will be surprised how much oil the filter will soak up.

Another tip is that after your initial ride out after the filter change is to check the tightness of the filter.It may well be that it could do with just a small amount of extra twist on it.I have seen the outcome of an oil filter coming undone and falling off and neither results are very pretty
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[MCN]

[Fizzer Thou]

[MCN]

[stevo as b4]

I've heard all about the old some engines can't self prime the pumps, and will tear up bearings in seconds if you don't prime and fill the pump and filter before trying to start it.

I've never seen or had an engine though that needed grease packed oil pumps, manual filling of the pump or similar to start pumping oil.

Oh and OP I wouldn't use a torque wrench for anything really on the outside of an engine. Things like cam cover bolts, sump plugs, spark plugs, oil filters are all asking for trouble if you go attacking them with torque wrenches, that may be wrongly set by mistake or not calibrated.

You only need a specific torque setting for very important fasteners like flywheel bolts, primary gear nuts, clutch drums or cylinder head bolts IMO.

[Islander]

I've never primed an oil filter. I just fill to indicated max then start the bike and let it run at tickover for a minute or so, let it settle then top up as needed.

No need to prime IMO.

[Fizzer Thou]

[Triton Thrasher]

[ADSrox0r]

I see absolutely zero possibility of introducing 'shit' into a brand new filter by pouring brand new oil into it.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[MCN]

There is absolutely no need to pre-fill a filter when there is a pump in the system to fill it.

I cannot see any savings in this myth.

But anyone who feels like wasting time doing so can batter on with their determined-ness
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[MCN]

[stinkwheel]

There's no need to "prime" a new filter because it's totally full within about 0.5 seconds of touching the starter button... As anyone who has inadvertantly fitted a filter without first having removed the old o-ring from the gasket surface will be able to verify.

So no need to get oil all over the shop.

It will take a modern Japanese bike with a trochoidal oil pump less than 10 seconds at a fast idle to empty the whole sump onto the garage floor through a poorly sealed filter.

If you have an old or oddball bike with a piston pump then yes, priming the filter is a good idea. It takes my 350 bullet over 1m30s at idle minutes to get oil from the tank to the rockers
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.