The uselessness of power settings

[Rogerborg]

[MCN]

Power Modes adjust the engine fuel settings and ABS (dynamic braking) if included.
I use three modes on my S10000RR Rain, sport and race. All three are very distinguishable.
Rain limits peak power and the abs is 100% active.
sport alows more power and the abs reacts later. Wheels can be locked up almost.
Race 100% power and less abs.
Slick is a mode that requires a chip to be plugged in under the seat that cuts the abs out but only useful on a track with slicks.
Race mode is much more than enough for public roads.
My K1300 has three modes. Mostly it acts on the suspension.
Most noticeable is normal and comfort. Sport not so noticeable.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[yen_powell]

[Jayy]

[craigT19]

Modes can change drastically depending on the manufacturer and the bike.

On my MT-10 for example the "DMode" is little more than a glorified adjustable quick action throttle.
The modes have very little impact on power and torque, or any system other than YCCT.

https://i.imgur.com/CZY2NjH.jpg


Std mode - The "soft mode" 100% at the grip is 98% results in 98% opening of the throttle bodies.

A Mode - 75% at the grip results in 98% opening of the throttle bodies

B Mode - the "fastest mode "You guessed it 50% at the grip 98% at the throttle bodies.

Abs and traction control are completely unaffected by any of the modes. The softest of the traction control setting does use data from the APS and ABS sensors to create a kinda poor mans anti-wheelie mode (no gyros).

I cant comment on rain modes advertised with other brands as I haven't used them but the standard Yamaha mode (sometimes called rain mode) just makes the engines rpm easier to control. Personally I have no problems doing anything in one of the "faster modes" but B mode can be abit of a handful at low speed.
I suppose if your a little bit ham fisted or just a little bit worried the physiological effect of switching down a mode is a nice placebo irrespective of any actual changes on the bike.
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Bikes owned :- 2001 nsr125, 1999 zx6r, 2006 yzf-r1, 2009 xmax 250, 2012 yzf-r1, 2015 MT-07
Current bike : - 2016 MT-10
BCF member pops. sadly missed 1945-2003

[biker7]

My Busa has 3 power modes: A is savage. B is a little less savage. C is like a 'normalish' motorcycle on full power! But none of this means much because like any bike you get used to its power and ride accordingly. I ride exclusively on A. It does not seem particularly powerful because I have settled into appropriate throttle and brake action after riding Hayabusas for a while now. Were I to shift modes to suit riding conditions rather than wrist/hand action, my bike would become too inconsistent for my liking. Most Busa owners have a similar outlook I believe. Learn your bike's max power and then you be in charge of it. Vary the power and the bike takes over imo. For the same reason I'm not a great fan of traction control. Was that me doing an ace bit of cornering or am I deluding myself letting the 'programmed expert' do it's tricks? Just a personal thought. If you like your bike's brain to keep you safe, no problem. Back to power modes.....my brain has 3:

1. Full on
2. Hold back a bit
3. Stay at home!

Similarly when I jump on my 250, it does not feel underpowered - I ride in a totally different manner, winding up the revs and enjoying wringing a bike's neck.
Both my bikes have ABS. It kicks in if I get a bit forgetful. I curse a bit, having not planned properly. 'But what about the other fella trying to take you out?', I hear you say. Probably you are right. But I still like to be in control. It's a bit like wearing all the protective gear in case you come off. Fact is, if you wear Kevlars etc you probably take less chances - or as a mate of mine says, 'just don't come off!' So when you next whack it into mode C and ride like a tool, maybe you have got the experience to leave it in A. Food for thought!
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Swansea area
Fat Bob (2019)

[thx1138]

[Howling Terror]

My bike has 2 power settings.
Rain
Sport.

Both full power.
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[Bozzy.]

[Fisty]

[JAMSXR]

[owl]

[JAMSXR]

Both great bikes. For me the SuperDuke is the better road bike and the Tuono better on track. I do 2-3 track days per year and around 6k miles of weekend blasts and touring.

The torque, comfort and extra travel win the road battle in favor of the Duke, and the aggressive nature coupled with the V4 make the Tuono a winner on track.

For me the SuperDuke represents what a street bike should be, grunt from bottom to top, capable of big miles and stupidly fun. The V4 was a little to “sportsbike with bars”, but I’m still an Aprillia fan boy and will own another at some point.
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Honda SFX50 > Aprilia SR125 > Aprilia RS125 > Honda RFV400 > K4 GSXR600 > KTM Duke > C1H 636 > K3 GSXR1000 > Aprilia RSV-R > Triumph Street Triple R > Ducati 899 Panigale > Aprilia Tuono 1100 > Triumph Daytona 675R > KTM SuperDuke 1290 2.0

[stevo as b4]

I'm willing to accept we live in a sad fucking pansy play it safe nanny world of multiple maps now, but only if the multiple maps are for:

1, different fuel types/quality. I.e 95/98 RON or E85, or LPG etc.

2, secondary maps are for economy (performance machinery is expensive to run today)

3, Emissions. You can't map anything for maximum performance and best cleanest possible emissions at the same time. Its also even today total bollocks that ICE engines are not restricted or limited by having to run a clean tailpipe and be catalysed to hell.

I don't agree with TCS or rain/snow maps etc. But there is some argument for having a limited performance map for lending the vehicle to a young or inexperienced user or one you don't trust fully.

Its the same as all these fools that like complex EBC's on tuned petrol engines. The right hand or foot is the best boost controller out there, and turbocharged engines are not supposed to be smooth and have an artificially wide usable rev range. They are nothing-everything-nothing engines and trying to tame them with electronics is missing the point.

My modernist views extend to Nasp race tuned engines with high power/litre. They are not supposed to sit in traffic idling smoothly as your grans Singer sowing machine at 1000rpm. I expect farting, coughing, hunting and backfires, not the sound of a Honda civic driving to the supermarket.

Less is more with electronics and control strategy's IMO.

[JAMSXR]

[grr666]

Spacker has three throttle modes.

Bender mode

STD or Sexually transmitted disease mode.

and

Aaaaaarrrrrrrggggggh mode

I don't have traction control at all and my ABS 'keeps blowing fuses officer'.

The three throttle modes are VERY different. I usually ride in STD mode as it's the default setting, but I do change to B
mode if I have a pilion. It's a wheelie happy old heap at the best of times, so I like to keep my passengers this side of
paralysed by fear by keeping it on B mode.
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Currently enjoying products from Ford, Mazda and Yamaha
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[kgm]