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Fireblade restoration

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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Fireblade restoration Reply with quote

I have an old 97 blade without a battery.

It needs some other work as well but before committing any further funds I want to make sure it runs.

Can I simply connect my car battery to the bike cables with a set of jump leads?

If not, is the only recourse to buy a new battery?

Thanks
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes you can earth the frame to the -ve and +ve to the battery lead....if its not run for a while do it a favour and take the plug leads of for 20 seconds of starter motor cranking to make sure everything is primed in oil then off ya go! fireblades upto and including the 929 tend to have crap rectifier units so make sure its charging and when you do buy a battery get a good one as it needs a bit of punch given the small battery size and cc of the motor
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, use a set of jump leads and don't have the car engine running, just to be safe (bit controversial, not really going there).
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks but am being thick, can I connect the negative to say the passenger footrest?

Also given it’s a blade, does that mean taking the tank off to get to the plug leads?

Also is it positive to positive First and then negative to frame and then the car battery?
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: fireblade Reply with quote

How long has this bike been standing ??

If it where mine I would first make sure that the valves are defo free and not stuck. A stuck open valve and whiz the engine over on the starter equals a scrap engine now !

So remove plugs and lube down the holes as best as possible and leave for 2 days.

Using hand tools and crank nut/bolt, using no real torque or effort, turn engine in correct direction of rotation very slowly and very carefully, with an assistant watching valves for opening and closing. If possible remove cam cover and watch in there as well, as well as lubing in there.

If the engine seems to "clunk" and "lock up", this may be a stuck open valve now trying to tangle with a piston crown.

Note the clutch will also be stuck as well as the brakes etc....#

Rush and wreck it, take your time and enjoy the ride, eventually !
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Bikeless
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removing the tank won't help as the airbox is in the way,I used to change the plugs in mine by just taking off the side panels, it's tight though,a 72 tooth ratchet helps.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s been standing for around 2 years. I know what you are saying but I am going to have you tube a lot of that as it’s not something I have done before.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two years, dry stored? I'd check the oil level, stick jump leads on it and spin it over.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dry stored? If that means in a garage then yes.

It was ridden in the garage in winter and then simply put away!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a honda. It'll start.

As above, check the oil level first. I'd be tempted to put some fresh fuel into it and do turn it over for a few seconds first to get the oil up into the oilways. I'm pretty sure a firblade will turn over with the kill switch in the off position.

I vote for it firing up within 30 seconds if the OP can keep his hand off the throttle (keep your hand off the throttle op, it'll pick up one cylinder at a time, if you gas it before it's picked up on all 4, it'll cut out again.).
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks but what is a turn over and should the choke be on or off?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turning over is when the engine is turned by the starter motor and the pistons go over top dead centre.

On old, kick-start single cylinder bikes, the piston going over TDC was very obvious. On your japanese inline 4, turning the engine over is when it makes a generic starting motorcycle noise.

Choke would be on if you're trying to start it.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what have we decided. Just jump it or try and get a cycle of piston movements?
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Minty
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bullet proof engines, give it a start.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsbike wrote:
So what have we decided. Just jump it or try and get a cycle of piston movements?


Just start it. Be fine.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would expect a fireblade that was ridden into a dry garage 2 years ago with no running problems to start after a minimum of fiddling. So I'd make sure there was sufficient oil and fresh fuel, a charged battery connected and try starting it.

I'd do this AFTER having turned the engine over on the starter for 10 seconds or so to ensure the oil pump has primed all the oilways (which could be done either by disconnecting the plug caps or (I think) turning it over with the engine kill switch in the off position.

If you are concerned there may be a problem with the engine turning, I'd manually turn it a full cycle by removing the plastic inspection cap off the centre of the left hand engine cover, put a socket on the end of the nut you see in there and rotate it two full revolutions anticlockwise by hand. If you encounter solid resistance or a funny noise, stop.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Billy Balthorpe
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stick it in top gear on a paddock stand, turn the back wheel by hand for about 20 seconds in the direction of travel, if it doesn't lock up or make any weird noises, chuck some fresh fuel in it and connect it to a car battery as previously described. Spin it over, it should take s while to drag the fuel through so that will take care of priming the oilways. Once it fires up, run till it gets warm (not hot), then switch off and change the oil and filter.

Buy a battery and fire it up on new oil. Then get on and ride it to the south of France. It's a Honda fireblade, this is the bike they left on the Rev limiter for the weekend and came back in on Monday to find it still screaming.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 14 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

if its only been stood for 2 years it'll start no problems...probably just top up the tank with fresh fuel keep the choke and kill switch off and hit the starter...if it turns over give it 10 seconds on the starter then kill switch on and choke and keep the revs sub 2k rpm and check for any leaking oil near the oil filter (heat exchanger) coolant leaks or fuel. dont try riding it with no battery tho as it'll spit the dummy in the regulator/genny department
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 06:12 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all very much. I am going to stick in on a paddock stand and turn the wheel. I may get brave enough to do the wheel inspection cover thing! Although I think the latter is just doing the same? Stop if it’s does not turn or weird noises.

Check oil which should be easy via the sight glass.

Connect battery via jump leads.

Put fresh fuel ( it’s got the reserve amount in)

Choke and kill switch off. Ignition on, press stater for 10secs.

Choke on, press starter, no throttle and see what happens.

Hopefully this Sunday!

It’s shame no one is near Ruislip I would have mince pies and beverage of your choice !
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 08:31 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not far from there but it really is as simple as check it's got oil and petrol. Fire it up. My sv hadn't started for 2 years and I literally cleaned carbs and pressed fire.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Not far from there but it really is as simple as check it's got oil and petrol. Fire it up. My sv hadn't started for 2 years and I literally cleaned carbs and pressed fire.


Exactly this Thumbs Up

Too many Drama Llamas posting on here lately. Check levels, push button, repeat until it fires.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s probaly ok but I enjoyed learning about all the other stuff. Hopefully I should have god news after the weekend. Smile

Then it will be threads about brakes and cleaning!!
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: drama lama Reply with quote

drama lama, or just wise caution, from experience perhaps ?

Get some assurances from people who tell you to just "whizz it over" on the starter, that they will contribute to new parts, if, and if, as they sometimes do, there is a stuck valve or 4. :karma:

Turn the engine over by hand, being very careful to spot any stuck valves BEFORE whizzing over on the starter. That way you will not have to do a thread titled " how do I replace a broken valve guide " etc..

Turn it over via a crankshaft fastener/bolt, rather than the rear wheel, as you have more control.

check cmsnl for exploded views, which can only help, and you have a manual ?
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 12:54 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikenut other more bs. Join Jaffa in the autism forum.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no risk of stuck valves. The oil pump will do a better job in the two seconds of cranking than you would do in 5 minutes turning by hand.

Check coolant and be sure its not frozen.
Check regulator/stator connections they are likely to be crusty.

Its a carby and a good chance full of shit rotten fuel, also significant chance of rotten split hoses. If you run or ride as is, there is a fire risk. Carbs off, clean them, inspect hoses. Check the tank for water. Dump the old fuel out give it fresh with 20% old per tank to use it up.

If you clean the carbs first I would expect it to start instantly, and quicker tthan my cbr6 fuel injected which I ride every day.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 104 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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