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Fireblade restoration

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bikenut
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: bs Reply with quote

bs or experience, is it worth the risk, or are you paying ?
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 15 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Haynes manual so can refer to that.

I must confess stripping carbs etc does concern me as does figuring out the rec/ref stuff. The latter is probably gunged up as it was ridden into the garage after some time at winter commuting.

Will clean the bike first and take some pics
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I checked the oil and did all the bits but it did not fire up. I guess it needs a carb clean. Not sure what else to try and my garage is going at the end of Jan.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsbike wrote:
So I checked the oil and did all the bits but it did not fire up. I guess it needs a carb clean. Not sure what else to try and my garage is going at the end of Jan.


So what exactly did you do?
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put it on a paddock stand and turned the wheel.

Checked oil (all good), more fuel and connected battery.

I had the choke and kill switch off and pressed the starter-that did not go anything.

Next option was just to try and start it. Choke up, kill switch on and tried again. It chugged but did not catch. I did not want to risk the car battery or damaged anything (and it started raining) so called it a day.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It takes a while to prime the carbs so you'd need to spin it over a few times. Eventually it'll try to start then catch and hopefully start. It's unlikely you'll flatten a charged car battery.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks, will try again this weekend
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

How long you tried the starter was going to be my next question. It can take a bit. I usually give it 10 second bursts followed by a 10 second rest.

A motorcycle mechanic friend (as in, does it for a living) is less conservative. He has a fairly large collection of bikes and if he wants to go for a ride at a weekend, he tries them in order of which he would like to ride first and gives them a full minute on the starter. If it starts, he takes it, if it doesn't, he puts it in the naughty corner and moves onto the next one.

If it was chugging, you're getting some firing. Next stage is it picking up on one (then two, then three).

Again, I'll stress the importance of NOT opening the throttle at this stage because you'll flood it. It's SUPER tempting and you may not realise you're dong it. I've stood next to people trying to start a recalcitrant bike who have sworn blind they weren't opening the throttle when I was stood watching them do it.

As such, I'd recommend using your index finger to push the starter button.

I'd be genuinely surprised if a fireblade doesn't start up.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not hold it that long - about 20’secs and was very careful not to touch the throttle. If not big hardship to jump it so will try again this weekend and hold it for longer.

The carb clean maybe required
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As it is a carby, another thing to check is the fuel tap. If it is a vacuum tap, 50% of the time they will fail open and leak fuel, 48% they will be blocked or not connected to the vacuum hose and only 2% they actually work as intended. Vacuum tap is the reason a bike that would start instantly can take a few seconds/minutes on the button as the carbs need to fill up. I hate them, but have not found a suitable solenoid valve replacement.

Throttle should be touched. If she doesnt start after a couple seconds and the carbs are full, then a quick blast of WOT will usually do it.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: fireblade Reply with quote

If there was a stuck open valve, or a valve reluctant to close, the damage is now done !

Does the fuel tap have a prime position ?

Vac taps are off ( closed, no flow ) needing vacuum to open the valve via the diaphragm, at least that's how the ones on our bikes work.

They have an on position, a reserve position and a prime position, to by pass the "auto shut off" part of the tap, not needing a real OFF position due to the sprung loaded diaphragm controlled valve.

However, one Kawasaki vac fuel tap I have seen does have a dedicated OFF position, a much better prospect.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: nbike Reply with quote

There is no risk of stuck valves. The oil pump will do a better job in the two seconds of cranking than you would do in 5 minutes turning by hand.

Ever heard of the titanic ?

valve stem oil seals, heard of them ? or are the ones on your bike o ring or umbrella type, or maybe the valve stems on your bike are pressure lubricated by the oil pump ?

Jaffa, I love oranges !

The op stated bike ridden in winter then stored for 2 years, was it winterised or just left, completely ignored, for the "hibernation" period.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christ, you would have the OP doing a full engine strip and rebuild before firing it up!

The mind boggles at the stupidity Rolling Eyes
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikenut - winter was not winterized, it was just stored.

I will try and crank it up again later this week when its warmer and drier.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samsbike wrote:
Bikenut - winter was not winterized, it was just stored.

I will try and crank it up again later this week when its warmer and drier.


I think you can ignore Bikenut's doom and gloom prophesies - 2 years isn't that long a layup for a modern bike Smile
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I go with the carbs being gummed up, two years of modern petrol in the float bowls will have the small jets well clogged up. I have also found that plugs tend to go sulky too after an extended lay-off.
Best way to prove the engine runs is some Easy Start onto the carbs. You might be lucky and any clogs will clear, but its usually a strip and thorough clean.
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P.
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My SV carbs were proper mank after 2 years. Quick clean and she fired and ran properly. Otherwise she was running, just.
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Samsbike
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I am going to give another go this weekend and see what happens
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: bike Reply with quote

Christ, you would have the OP doing a full engine strip and rebuild before firing it up!

Not necessary, just check and make sure that no valves are stuck, open that is. Just make sure that all the valves open and close as intended, else, if one is stuck open and engine just whizzed over on the starter, then yes, a strip down will be needed to fix all the stuff now ruined !


The mind boggles at the stupidity Rolling Eyes

yes, the stupidity of not checking !

2 years can/could be long enough for valves to stick/be reluctant to close properly via the return spring.

op, its your bike, your time ( an hour to check, an hour well spent, else 100 hours and £900 to fix maybe ) your money !

wise caution or rush and wreck it.

You have whizzed it over on the starter already, so any reluctant/stuck valve have done the damage, your too late now.

But,

1. with the plugs out, does the engine now turn over by hand freely, normally, except for the energy needed to open valves ? and slight "whip" no not cream, from the closing valve springs....

2. if so then maybe a compression check, even a low tech one like your thumb over the plug hole, with ign killed, and whizzed over on the starter, if safe to do so....each cylinder seems about the same "blow off" of your thumb ?

Did your thumb get hot ?

If your thumb wont reach to cover the plug hole, then make a suitable size tapered "plug" from a suitable wood dowel, to cover the plug hole, and try again. Similar blow off on each cylinder ?

Lets hope so.

If you have a proper compression tester, then use that.

Yes the carbs and jets etc. will be well gummed up etc..

rush and wreck it or take your time and enjoy the ride, eventually.

Piston rings can also stick, as well as brakes and clutches. :karma:

The titanic as you know was an "unsinkable ship", so no chance of sinking then eh !

PS, any residents in the airbox??
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Last edited by bikenut on 13:16 - 20 Dec 2017; edited 1 time in total
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore that ^

If its not running by new year and I have a free day, I'll come over. Carbs are easy.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: bike Reply with quote

its your bike and your time and your money.

Too many cooks etc, but whom to believe, practise wise caution and common sense, the titanic sank !
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fireblade is better than the Titanic.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Paddy.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I agree with Paddy.


That^^^
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 14:59 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wub But no seriously, I'll pop over, I'm only outside Bromley and have a car.
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