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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which is why intelligent people are better at chess (savants excluded). They think at least one move ahead.

Move a): "Looks pretty easy..."

Move b): (Prepares proof for when called on it).

Laughing
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Rubiks Cube is less than a quid. That means any idiot should be able to do it, right?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Yay! Tell me which wires from the pic of the car's wiring datasheet to connect to which wires in the pic of the Hawk's harness.

Nice one dude! Smile


1. Find the brown-grey closure wire in the cars loom from steering column.
2. Cut it.
3. 6 Central locking wires on alarm harnes.
4. Discard Yellow and Orange/Black
5. Connect Orange (Alarm wire) to one side of cut Grey wire VCLR side
6. Connect White and White/Black to Grey wire Lock side.
7. Connect Yellow/Black to Earth.

I dare say that as this is a replacement for the original system you could miss step 5 and really only need to fit one wire in step 6, the one that goes live and supplies power to the actuator/actuator relay.

Does that make sense?

<edit>Just noticed the wire colours don't match up but that isn't a problem either because there are only 12 wires and the positive power is 5 from the bottom on the harness plug picture and 5th from the bottom in the manual so just work it out from their positions.</edit>
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hetzer wrote:
Yay! Tell me which wires from the pic of the car's wiring datasheet to connect to which wires in the pic of the Hawk's harness.

Nice one dude! Smile


1. Find the brown-grey closure wire in the cars loom from steering column.
2. Cut it.
3. 6 Central locking wires on alarm harnes.
4. Discard Yellow and Orange/Black
5. Connect Orange (Alarm wire) to one side of cut Grey wire VCLR side
6. Connect White and White/Black to Grey wire Lock side.
7. Connect Yellow/Black to Earth.

I dare say that as this is a replacement for the original system you could miss step 5 and really only need to fit one wire in step 6, the one that goes live and supplies power to the actuator/actuator relay.

Does that make sense?

<edit>Just noticed the wire colours don't match up but that isn't a problem either because there are only 12 wires and the positive power is 5 from the bottom on the harness plug picture and 5th from the bottom in the manual so just work it out from their positions.</edit>


I'm not going into the loom mid-point anywhere, I'm installing the Hawk onto the end of the loom where the existing unit is at. A guy's already successfully done that with an L300 and it should be no different for the L400.

I'll have the Mitsu unit out within the next half hour.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't guarantee that'll work but its what the instructions say.

I would first see if applying 12v to the grey wire (vehicle loom) closes the windows problem is you don't know if its a continuous 12v or a pulsed 12v. Probably continuous but you never know.

Easiest thing to do is check the output on the alarm, see what each wire does and then go from there.

There is a big chance that there are mulitple inputs to the lock actuators with one linking all the locks, find that and its an easy job but it may well be the grey loom wire.

<edit>Yes it should be pulsed, forgot it was central locking not including window closure.</edit>


Last edited by sickpup on 11:50 - 17 Dec 2017; edited 1 time in total
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

when have so little clear information you start to prove things,
Whip the drivers door card off and find the wiring,

So when you unlock the door it will fire a 12v out to the other doors, so this tells you which is the unlock wire that you will need to pulse, Do the same for the locking, so then you know that if you fire 12v up the(example) purple wire the door unlock, and if you fire 12v up the (example) orange wire the doors lock,
from this we then test it with the 12v supply mentioned( always prove/test before any cutting or splicing,

then we look at the instructions to see which wire from the kit gives off the 12v pulse for locking and unlocking,
with the information gained we know that the purple wire of the door goes to the(example) yellow wire of the new unit to unlock the car,
do the same thing for the lock wires,

it is that simple,

you will also have to give the new unit a 12v & gnd and maybe a 12v when the ignition is on, to stop it arming etc when the car is running.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
and maybe a 12v when the ignition is on, to stop it arming etc when the car is running.


Yes these units require a switched 12v to stop arming after 30 or 60 seconds.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car loom.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you looking at the correct part of the loom?

If so and the colours don't match you will have to take off a door card and check for continuity to an actuator to work out what colour you need.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, we can immediately see that the data-sheet provided by Hawk for the car's wire-colours is bullshit.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
So, we can immediately see that the data-sheet provided by Hawk for the car's wire-colours is bullshit.


Maybe maybe not.

Different market vehicles and different years often have different wiring schemes and as they say connect at steering column the colours there could be correct.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's me multimeter. I assume the red and black connectors in the middle are correct for the probes but I'm getting nada reading on any of the dial settings for what I assume is the loom's continuous live (red and black wire).

Can somebody tell me what the correct setting is for the dial? I think the loom is dead but I've not tried many of the dial settings.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sticking the red probe into the connector and the black against the car's body-panel.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, watched a video. DC 20 for volt-checking. Might help if I don't try to ground through a painted panel.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The loom is live.

Red/black = 12v
Red/yellow = 12v
The other three wires closest to the red/yellow also 12v. I'm guessing the black/green is ground. Fuck knows what the other two are.

All others nada.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easier to petrol and matches Sad
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going by the car's wiring colours I think it's a type-7 system (one wire).
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

But I have four fucking wires in the car giving out 12v with ignition off and none of the diagrams I have correctly identify all nine wires, so I'm stuffed regardless.

I think Jewlio's procedure is correct, applied to Hawk's pile of shit product.

"Here ya go, here's our product for £20, which we say in the listing you can fit yourself. But we lied, now take it to an automotive leccy and pay him £100 to fit it for you."

Scumsucking cunts. I'm so going to enjoy giving them negative feedback.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol. I've just realized that the car's wires are exactly the same as...

"I have looked at the wiring again and in my Delica - a 1994 super exceed - the wires are as follows :-

"lock" wire is GREEN WITH BLACK STRIP AND SILVER DOTS
"unlock" wire is GREEN WITH YELOW STRIP AND SILVER DOTS
"power" 12v is RED WITH BLACK STRIP
"earth" is just BLACK

This corresponds with other wire colour posts on the forum.

This is all you will need to wire in a standard remote system. Very Happy

The lock and unlock are both negative pause and are always 12v so to trigger them they need earthing, the Tiger unit I got from "that site" was about £30 and does this and about 4 other configurations depending on car type I guess.

I now need to work out what the other 5 wires do by looking at the wiring diagram which I don't have just yet. "


So 'all' I need to do is work out which wires do what in the Hawk unit. Surely that'll be a piece of cake from studying their POS manual...
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This, I'm hoping, is the correct diagram in their manual. However...can anyone tell me how to interpret the pic. Where the wires cross each other, does that mean they need to be connected to each other? Or the bit where there's a little round bit where one wire runs into another...is that a connection? Which means where wires cross over it's NOT indicating a connection?

TIA. Smile
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anwered my own question. This is the diagram from the other seller (wish I'd bought their unit instead of the POS from the Hawk cunts).
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it correct/ok to connect those wires (yellow etc) to the car's ground wire? I'm assuming it's the same to connect a wire to the car's negative battery terminal OR a metal bit of the car OR the ground-wire in the car's loom?
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coo, it works, I haz remote locking. For my next trick, stick the brown wires into the indicator terminals.

Thanks for all the help guys. Smile

Hawk Alarms, grease your arse for negging in five days, you useless shower of fucking wankers.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't find one answer on google regarding how to test for an indicator wire with a multimeter, OR even if an indicator wire is supposed to be constant 12v live. So after trying a few wires and getting nothing from the indicators I decided to give up on that. Got remote locking with no indicator flash, it'll do. Smile
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UncleFester
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indicator wires will only be switched to live each time the relay opens, the rest of the time they will not have any voltage showing.

You'd need to mimic what the hazard switch does to get them all to flash.

If you just want visual confirmation it has worked, just use an LED instead.
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