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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Fester. That narrows it down to two wires. I did hold one of the unit's indicator wires to one of the non-live car wires and triggered the lock/unlock but there was nothing from either of the indicators.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume the unit is meant to send a signal up the car's indicator wires to trip the hazard lights (indicators x4).
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UncleFester
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 17 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

No - actually you need to power the hazard flasher part of the relay to get all 4 to go. Something like sending 12V down the switched side of the hazard switch would do it. Basically faking the hazard switch being pushed which then opens the relay and powers up the circuit.

I can't remember how it used to work, i presume / assume that the number of flashes you get is solely to do with the time the circuit is powered for. Basically depending which part of the circuit you activate will decide whether you get a left flash, a right flash or all 4 flashing.

It's a while since I've had to figure this stuff out.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turns out that OEM the Deli was never designed with flashing indicators for remote lock/unlock. I think the kit does it by adding something into the loom when it gets hacked into midway. From the end there's no provision for that. Lucky I didn't short or wreck anything in my attempts. Smile
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 06:45 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The alarm has a relay which flashes the indicator lights.

The Brown wire is split in two with diodes on either spur and run directly to the front indicator positive wires downstream of the relay just before the actual bulbs. As the front and rear positive wires are common it then actovates the indicators and probably the idiot lightson the dash.

The diodes are important as they maintain the seperation of left and right indicators as well as stopping a potential hotwire Cool .

Remember your central locking is now controlled by the Hawk box NOT the car so however it was configured before is irrelevant.
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UncleFester
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PostPosted: 06:59 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

diodes - forgot about them Very Happy The only thing I ever use the lights flash for is finding the car in a car park - not an issue in your case I'd think?
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
The alarm has a relay which flashes the indicator lights.

The Brown wire is split in two with diodes on either spur and run directly to the front indicator positive wires downstream of the relay just before the actual bulbs. As the front and rear positive wires are common it then actovates the indicators and probably the idiot lightson the dash.

The diodes are important as they maintain the seperation of left and right indicators as well as stopping a potential hotwire Cool .

Remember your central locking is now controlled by the Hawk box NOT the car so however it was configured before is irrelevant.


That'll be why they don't work from the end of the loom, it's the wrong side of the relays.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could have gone out and bought a new car* by now, all this dicking about.

It's a man thing, right?




* a new old car, obvs.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
Its perfectly straightforward.
Its quite clear that each diagram is written in a different language.
And each of those languages simply says "Get a little man in to do it."



/\ /\ /\
Your detailed instructions Sir.

No thanks needed. Thumbs Up
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I now have two out of three no interior lights on opening the doors. The rear-most one still lights, middle and front nada. The mid and front still come on when fully switched over by hand though, so it's not the fuse or bulbs (already changed the fuse anyway when I blew it while fucking around with an LED). All three were working ok until I got the Hawk working.

Any ideas?
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Any ideas?

You could take yourself off into a corner and chant "Four wheels bad, two wheels good" for an hour or two, but I doubt that will achieve much more than a Donald Duck fit of the vapours.

https://m.popkey.co/1f377a/jwkXo.gif
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could the problem be that your ordered a kit for a 1997 on car for your 1995 one?
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Could the problem be that your ordered a kit for a 1997 on car for your 1995 one?


No. They finally admitted they sent me the wrong sheet after I sent them a photo of my wiring. Then proceeded to send me another wrong one after speaking with their "technician". I guess their technician is colour-blind.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 123 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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