Painting bike for the first time

[BananaLover]

I purchased a HVLP spray gun and this matt black paint.

I've never done anything like this, but I've been doing quite a bit of research so I don't fail dramatically. I still have a few questions.

I'll be doing two bikes, my old bike first to get the hang of it, and them my current bike. Both bikes have metal tanks and what the rest is more elastic material that reminds plastic but is not. I will also add two white lines from back to front.

1) What grit sandpaper should I be using to get rid of paint. I understand I'd be doing it in increments, but I'm reading quite a lot of different answers.
2) What grit should I use between coats?
3) How much sanding do I need to do? Do I need to roughen up the area or do I need to get off as much as I possibly can?
4) The paint says 3-1 mix ratio, does that mean I'll be adding 3 paint to 1 water or reverse?
5) How long do I need to leave my parts dry before use?

Current plan from my research is as follows, sand off original gloss black paint until it's not shiny (so not all the paint just dull the surface) with light pressure in circular motion using 180 grit, I then apply my first coat, wait for it to not be sticky before sanding it with 600 grit a bit and repeating these steps for all 4-5 coats. I then leave it for 24 hours before I put tape on my parts for the white lines in the centre, and do just 2 coats for that.

How does this sound? Haven't purchased the matt white yet, but I was looking at ordering this.

[chris-red]

[A100man]

2k paint is NOT water soluble - at least not the stuff I have come across. It needs to be mixed with a catalyst/hardener - it says that on the amazon listing.

Also 2k is poisonous so risky to paint in an enclosed space without a mask. For a small job I reckon a charcoal filter mask is OK (I used one from 3M once) For regular work you need an air fed mask (expensive).

Finally as well as paint you will want a host of other things like tack cloths and panel wipe an gun wash (maybe the same thing).
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[raesewell]

The idea of using "sandpaper" is alarming and I suggest you do a lot more research before you touch the bike.

Get yourself some test material and get lots of practice first.
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[Ste]

You don't need to sand off as much as possible of the old paint unless it's damaged / starting to flake / etc etc etc, you're just wanting to take the shine off it as the new paint will adhere better to a very slightly roughen surface rather than it does to a perfectly smooth surface.

Each coat of paint only needs to be very thin, do not be in a rush with any of it. With the sanding you need to be in even less of a rush, unless the paintwork or metal work is damaged you're only wanting to sand off a tiny amount. Apply slightly too much paint or be too enthusiastic with the wet & dry and you'll have to spend lots of time making the surface and finish good again.

You can always sand off very very slightly more or apply another really thin coat of paint but the opposite isn't nearly as straight forward.

You might be able get away with using 600 grit paper before the first coat although if the paint is in a half decent condition then I'd be inclined to use 800. Between coats I'd be using 1000+ and after the final coat use even finer grit paper.

What raesewell says about getting material to practise on is a very sensible idea before you start doing anything to your two bikes.

Patience is your best friend.

[Chris45]

Don't go anywhere near the bike until you've had plenty of practice on some pieces of metal. I got two old parts from a scrapped bike and practiced using them. As the guys say, do NOT use sandpaper . Wet 'n Dry ONLY, and don't use a harsh grade to try and hurry things along. Patience is the key to this job. A lot of guys on here will also tell you to get this, that or the other paint, depending on whether its a full exhibit resto or just to tart up your daily hack. As for me, I use a good quality primer, followed by Halfords undercoat then gloss, followed by a good quality laquer to seal it all. Some will question that no doubt, but I have a very limited budget and a '97 GPz 500 which looks very clean and presentable.
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[kippyzona]

What condition is the paint work? Does it have lacquered over stripes?
If the paint is good , a grey scotchbrite used wet will give it enough of a key.
You want to be as fine as possible at each stage as the paint will have to fill the scratches.
Everything you have mentioned is way too coarse.
Post some pictures up and we will have a better idea of what you need to do.
Also be aware that if you go through the lacquer on the plastic bits the paint you apply may cause shrivelling on the edge of the patch.
As above any water based paint will need a lacquer.
Do you have a well ventilated ,warm ,non damp environment to paint in?
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Zip

[redeem ouzzer]

Don’t spray 2k without the right gear. Exposure to isocyanates even once can ruin your health. Google it. Unfortunately the only way to get a petrol proof finish is with 2k lacquer.
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[Bikeless]

I've sprayed a few bikes and car panels in the past,i would seriously get some practice in if your spraying matt finishes,at least with gloss base coat or gloss clear coat you can sand imperfections out and polish.

[BananaLover]

[BananaLover]

I'm surprised so many people got upset of the idea of sandpaper.
Most of the videos I've seen people used wet sandpaper.
I grabbed this off halfords believeing it's the right stuff.

[kippyzona]

If you are doing it outdoors this really isn’t the time of year.
The paint can attract moisture and it blooms which means it would have a milky finish.
Definitely bin the rubbing paper and get some scotchbrites. All you need to do is dull the existing paint. You can either rub hard and wet with a grey one or lightly with a red one.
Be really careful not to rub through a layer of paint on the plastic bits. You can enter a monumental world of pain if you do. It’s not always going to shrivel up but it’s not worth the aggro so be careful.
The 2 pack lacquer will need about 12 hours to go hard at room temp.
This means taking it indoors. You won’t kill the inhabitants but you will certainly give them some really bad headaches at best.
Honestly , wait til summer.
Just seen that you are using a 2 pack matt black . Just dull the paint using a red scotchbrite. You can do it dry.
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Zip

[andyscooter]

even inside with no proper warmth the paint can bloom


we used to get this a lot working under an archway which also was fairly damp

we had to warm the metal before we could paint it

black was also the hardest colour to get right as a slight bit more paint on one area would show as darker then the other

(I was painting wheelchairs at the time so no massive areas)
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[A100man]

[-]

[Rogerborg]

[BananaLover]

[rpsmith79]

[Rogerborg]

[kippyzona]

[-]

Blimey, there’s some odd advice here. This is not how I understand it from the tutorials I read before I did my furniture.

If you plan on using 2K aka 2 Pack paint, you cannot spray outdoors in this weather, nor can you apply more coats once dry. You allow to flash iff between coats, but must do all coats in one hit.

https://www.vwt5forum.co.uk/picture.php?albumid=25385&pictureid=383321

I used an old party tent to spray in September.

https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/picture.php?albumid=25385&pictureid=376882
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[stevo as b4]

With normal aerosol paints, you would always use the add several light coats one after the other before the part dries. Every 5min or so I would keep adding another light coat until satisfied. That's my only painting experience and it's worked for me ok.

Roger is right that you or I know nothing, but BCF are always flawless prestige auto refinishing experts.

I also wouldn't spray paint anything outdoors in this weather. Warm dry sunny days are your friend for outdoor painting.

Final piece of advice that no one will be brave enough to suggest, as it will question your manhood.
But if your after a really great finish on something and are not planning on painting or restoring things very often, along with all the expense of buying the right kit from ground zero up, then strongly consider paying a professional for such services.

Some forums I frequent are very bitch slappy about your can't build or restore a bike/car unless you take on every task yourself, and unless you do your a sub human organism of very limited significance.

[Rogerborg]

[Shaft]