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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 01:11 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Jump starting Reply with quote

Having successfully jump-started cars with flat batteries for about 30 or 40 years (although not continuously) I've just discovered that the Proper Way is to connect up the vehicles, fire up the donor car and wait for it to charge the flat battery for long enough to provide enough juice to let it start the car on its own.

Me, I've always just connected them up, started the dead car immediately by effectively using the donor car's battery, and then having driven the dead car for a while to charge the flat battery, job's a good 'un. It's always worked fine - what's the evident problem with doing it that way?
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MikeKP61
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PostPosted: 03:33 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing really wrong with it if it works? If the donor car was running the alternator would be supplying the voltage and current in addition to the battery so you might have a better chance of starting it. Also repeatedly starting the dead car off the donors battery without it running it might eventually drain the donor battery if the fault persists making two dead cars Razz
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MCN
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PostPosted: 06:36 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never heard of having to wait for donor vehicle to charge a battery
Start the donor.
Connect the batteries
Have someone (or a stick if you have no friends) hold the throttle open a little so the alternator is at full output.
If the flat battery is pancake flat then it probably will need a few minutes of charge so it has enough power to carry the ignition, any fuel system load and the excitation of the alternator.

Then start the dead engine.

If it dies when you remove the leads then the battery will need a longer charge. Or it is totally FUBAR.

A volt meter helps with all of it.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

With my jump leads: connect the leads and crank it up.

With Halford Jump leads: connect the leads and wait for the battery to charge a bit or watch the leads melt.

If the leads can handle the amps have at it. Helps to put those leads on the engine and starter feed rather than on the battery, if you can.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 07:55 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
With my jump leads: connect the leads and crank it up.

With Halford Jump leads: connect the leads and wait for the battery to charge a bit or watch the leads melt.

If the leads can handle the amps have at it. Helps to put those leads on the engine and starter feed rather than on the battery, if you can.


Yes short circuiting the big energy sink-hole of a flat battery is a good tip.

Halfrauds Leads: There was once an organisation that tested/approved shit in the UK and gave a Kite Mark to shit that passed muster.

WTF happened to those folk? WHere are they when we really need them? Smile

https://www.bsigroup.com/en-GB/kitemark/product-testing/
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to be really careful jump starting a car these days.

I would always read the manual. My brother fried the ECU on his wifes pugeot (to his great cost and earache) by doing as described by the OP and MCN. Among other things, it turns out it has a specific jump starting post you're supposed to connect to and absolutely not the battery positive. You can jump it but there are some really specific instructions for doing so.

For reasons I'm not going to get into an argument about again withing a couple of months, if I was starting a bike from a car, I would do it with the car engine off. If a car battery can't crank and start a bike then have charge left to start the car, there was something wrong with it anyway. Others can do whatever the hell they want and shouldn't come crying to me if their reg/rec cooks.

Those little jump starter battery packs are black magic. I thought they were a gimmick until I saw someone fire up a transit van with one three times on one charge at a music festival.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Those little jump starter battery packs are black magic. I thought they were a gimmick until I saw someone fire up a transit van with one three times on one charge at a music festival.


They really are black magic, I have one myself and have jumped started many things with it including a 4 litre merc.

with regards to your brother's wife Peugeot, i'm pretty sure it wouldn't of fried the ecu anyway as its basically a battery in itself and not jumping off a running car. So in my opinion i think they are pretty safe.

(Leads are only long enough to reach battery terminals by the way)
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You have to be really careful jump starting a car these days.

I would always read the manual. My brother fried the ECU on his wifes pugeot (to his great cost and earache) by doing as described by the OP and MCN. Among other things, it turns out it has a specific jump starting post you're supposed to connect to and absolutely not the battery positive. You can jump it but there are some really specific instructions for doing so.

For reasons I'm not going to get into an argument about again withing a couple of months, if I was starting a bike from a car, I would do it with the car engine off. If a car battery can't crank and start a bike then have charge left to start the car, there was something wrong with it anyway. Others can do whatever the hell they want and shouldn't come crying to me if their reg/rec cooks.

Those little jump starter battery packs are black magic. I thought they were a gimmick until I saw someone fire up a transit van with one three times on one charge at a music festival.


Battery + to battery + and battery - to battery - should not present problem.
Connecting the leads + to - will more than likely fizzle something. (Usually the Alternator regulator/diode) but unprotected sensitive electronics could be vaporised under those conditions.
The manner in which the leads are connected may be significant sparky sparky may cause a spike in the dead vehicle's nervous system. Thinking
Maybe as a precaution the dead car should be have the lead connected first.

Agreed, a car battery should easily jump start any bike with the car engine off and still have capacity to start the car engine unless you are real Pikey Scum.

All other electrical load should be off which on a modern bike excludes the lights. So not much more load on a bike to be switched off unless heating.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just connected leads between batteries and never worried about it. It's worked every time for me and personally I can't see a problem. Paralleling a battery is just providing a bigger electric 'sink'. Same voltage, same resistance just more amps available.

I would't argue with any of Stinkwheels points but then I wouldn't be too bothered about implementing them either as I've never had any problems in 40 years of motoring doing it like that.

You do what you are happy doing. Thumbs Up
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grr666
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a van which I sold but not long before selling it had £80 worth of new battery. I still had the old one so
I swapped them over and kept the good un when I sold the van on. So I use that for jumping. 770cca is enough
to start a diesel so it makes light work of starting a bike via some jumper cables. The scoot was as dead as a doornail last
year when I wheeled it out of hibernation, my spare battery started it up no problem and an hours ride was enough to
charge up the one on the scoot.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Dad's old Renault 18 did two alternators from Jump starting, so I'd imagine you have to be careful not to melt it by trying to charge two batteries.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
I had a van which I sold but not long before selling it had £80 worth of new battery. I still had the old one so
I swapped them over and kept the good un when I sold the van on. So I use that for jumping. 770cca is enough
to start a diesel so it makes light work of starting a bike via some jumper cables. The scoot was as dead as a doornail last
year when I wheeled it out of hibernation, my spare battery started it up no problem and an hours ride was enough to
charge up the one on the scoot.


Usually a lead acid battery (and other rechargables) need the charge maintained or they become chemically compromised.
A battery that has been left for too long will take a charge and start something but it will never have the reserve capacity a properly maintained battery will have.
Cold days or fuel problem starts that need several goes will deplete a weak battery quickly.
But fine if everything is good.
I kept a gubbed battery in a 1200 bike for months after it started to fail. It got lazier and lazier to turn the engine over.
Heart in one's mouth stuff if parked at the bottom of a hill miles from home.. Smile
If one doesn't care for the hassle of a charger device and the hook up then £80 or woteva for a new battery and the trip to the shop to buy it is another option of course.

I need a new battery for my bike..
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

The manner in which the leads are connected may be significant sparky sparky may cause a spike in the dead vehicle's nervous system. Thinking
Maybe as a precaution the dead car should be have the lead connected first.


Think this is pretty much what happened but again, RTFM would be a good first point of call on a modern car when you're loooking at 4 figures for an ECU.

I can't think any manufacturer would have fitted a specific and seperate positive lead jump starting point to their vehicle for no good reason. Usually under a little red cover. Many modern vehicles have them now.
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Monkeywrenche...
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:

with regards to your brother's wife Peugeot, i'm pretty sure it wouldn't of fried the ecu anyway as its basically a battery in itself and not jumping off a running car. So in my opinion i think they are pretty safe.


Depends, I've seen fried BSI units from straight battery jumps, 2 of them. Theres a specific "wake up" that a peugeot needs after a period of low battery voltage. definitley safer than cranking off of a running vehicle though.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

Usually a lead acid battery (and other rechargables) need the charge maintained or they become chemically compromised.
A battery that has been left for too long will take a charge and start something but it will never have the reserve capacity a properly maintained battery will have.
Cold days or fuel problem starts that need several goes will deplete a weak battery quickly.
But fine if everything is good.

I used to bring it in for a charge every few months but now I have a maintenance charger I leave it on that.
It's got enough guts to get any of my fleet going if necessary which is why that one gets left on.
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 16:11 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Re: Jump starting Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
Having successfully jump-started cars with flat batteries for about 30 or 40 years (although not continuously) I've just discovered that the Proper Way is to connect up the vehicles, fire up the donor car and wait for it to charge the flat battery for long enough to provide enough juice to let it start the car on its own.

That isn't jump starting. That's charging the second vehicle from the first one.

In this sort of situation, unless the first vehicle also has a low battery, the alternator should only be significantly charging a single battery - and will be under similar strain to the other vehicle's alternator if you get it going with a low battery - basically running at full whack.

I do suspect most cases of insta-fried electronics are people that have connected terminals the wrong away around.
If you have jump starting posts, definitely worth using those.

I have 4.2ah RC battery that weighs under half a kg, can be held in your hand and will drop in over 500 Amps for a burst - have used it for jump starting in the past.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
MCN wrote:

Usually a lead acid battery (and other rechargables) need the charge maintained or they become chemically compromised.
A battery that has been left for too long will take a charge and start something but it will never have the reserve capacity a properly maintained battery will have.
Cold days or fuel problem starts that need several goes will deplete a weak battery quickly.
But fine if everything is good.

I used to bring it in for a charge every few months but now I have a maintenance charger I leave it on that.
It's got enough guts to get any of my fleet going if necessary which is why that one gets left on.


I just checked my email for the MF YTZ10S I bought Nov 2013.
It's been on a Ctek charger since new and only started faultering/fuckinaboot in October 2017.
Now the Ctek refuses to speak to it.
The bike goes with a jump.
Then I shite myself if it does that 'Dying Battery' shit in public.
Posh bike with a dead battery and a fat arse looking at it is not pretty.

£58.99 inc P&P for a genuine Yuasa (from a Honda dealer) in Nov 2013
I just bought another Yuasa from Padgetts online, about 30 mins ago, for £76:30 inc P&P.

An old fubar bike battery is still perfect for running a tyre pump. If it's kept alive on a charger/maintainererer. It beats humphing a heavy car battery out to blow up tires or footballs/airbeds/mattresses.
And swap the fag lighter plug for crocodile/alligator clips on the air pump or use a fag lighter socket thingie on croc clips.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Re: Jump starting Reply with quote

G wrote:
Freddyfruitbat wrote:
Having successfully jump-started cars with flat batteries for about 30 or 40 years (although not continuously) I've just discovered that the Proper Way is to connect up the vehicles, fire up the donor car and wait for it to charge the flat battery for long enough to provide enough juice to let it start the car on its own.

That isn't jump starting. That's charging the second vehicle from the first one.

In this sort of situation, unless the first vehicle also has a low battery, the alternator should only be significantly charging a single battery - and will be under similar strain to the other vehicle's alternator if you get it going with a low battery - basically running at full whack.

I do suspect most cases of insta-fried electronics are people that have connected terminals the wrong away around.
If you have jump starting posts, definitely worth using those.

I have 4.2ah RC battery that weighs under half a kg, can be held in your hand and will drop in over 500 Amps for a burst - have used it for jump starting in the past.


My beemer car has 'posts' cause the battery is buried in the boot.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I buy all my batteries from Tayna. Just looking to change the one in the van for one with a bit more in the tank ,
so to speak as I want to set up an electric heater in the back to keep the doggo warm after walkies. She's usually
soaking wet and short haired. I can't watch her shiver the poor sod, so I'm looking into making the back warmer
for her, but it needs to be instant heat so electric. Also be handy for defrosting. That said Tayna are much dearer than
you paid at Padgetts.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/yuasa/ytz10s/
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G
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
I buy all my batteries from Tayna. Just looking to change the one in the van for one with a bit more in the tank ,
so to speak as I want to set up an electric heater in the back to keep the doggo warm after walkies. She's usually
soaking wet and short haired. I can't watch her shiver the poor sod, so I'm looking into making the back warmer
for her, but it needs to be instant heat so electric.

Do you want the heater to be running while the car is running?

Electric doesn't mean instant much more than other options.

If it's for heat when you're not driving - a diesel night heater might be a better option.

If you're driving, your alternator is going to have to top up any used power - so an uprated alternator may be a better option if it's going to put a good bit of drain on the battery.
Ideally also have ducting to heat the back from the main heat - then you should only need a fairly short time with electric heat.

I'm not sure what options are available, but for any decent heat from 12v you're going to be talking BIG amps.

How about a 12v heated pet mat?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
I buy all my batteries from Tayna. Just looking to change the one in the van for one with a bit more in the tank ,
so to speak as I want to set up an electric heater in the back to keep the doggo warm after walkies. She's usually
soaking wet and short haired. I can't watch her shiver the poor sod, so I'm looking into making the back warmer
for her, but it needs to be instant heat so electric. Also be handy for defrosting. That said Tayna are much dearer than
you paid at Padgetts.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/yuasa/ytz10s/


There are specific 'leisure' batteries for running campers, caravans and boats etc. look for one of them.
Different design to a cranking battery, google is your friend.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pet mat may work, I've just spent 60 quid on a large 4 inch thick pvc coated cushion for her to lay on and
to insulate against the floor though. It's just that the van doesn't really warm up at all between here and the forest
we use, being semi rural here I don't have to go far to find lovely countryside, but she definitely has more doggo
fun in the forest which is only 8 minutes away, by the time we return to the van, what little heat had built up on the way
there has gone again. She has got a coat, and a habit of jumping in the river with it on rendering it useless. Laughing
I was thinking something like this might be okay? Certainly cheap enough to take a punt.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-300W-Car-Portable-Ceramic-Heater-Cooler-Dryer-Fan-Defroster-Demister-UK/391944035944?hash=item5b41af5e68:g:P0UAAOSwQcJaFO37
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Pet mat may work, I've just spent 60 quid on a large 4 inch thick pvc coated cushion for her to lay on and
to insulate against the floor though. It's just that the van doesn't really warm up at all between here and the forest
we use, being semi rural here I don't have to go far to find lovely countryside, but she definitely has more doggo
fun in the forest which is only 8 minutes away, by the time we return to the van, what little heat had built up on the way
there has gone again. She has got a coat, and a habit of jumping in the river with it on rendering it useless. Laughing
I was thinking something like this might be okay? Certainly cheap enough to take a punt.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-300W-Car-Portable-Ceramic-Heater-Cooler-Dryer-Fan-Defroster-Demister-UK/391944035944?hash=item5b41af5e68:g:P0UAAOSwQcJaFO37


I saw the remains of one of those things in a converted camper. It wasn't working and I don't think it was very capable when it was working. Very light weight.

It was one of these POS
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-Portable-Ceramic-Heater-Cooler-Dryer-Fan-Defroster-Demister-Deicer-Hot/322879766497?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49925%26meid%3D5fa0e01e2efe4459b584b982f2ea95fa%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D391944035944%26itm%3D322879766497&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Insulating the van would help. Heat is not stored very well in air, it is mainly stored in solids so the bodywork would be the biggest heat store.
If you can stop the heat escaping you will need less to heat up the van again. And insulation would reduce the effects of hot sun on it in summer. (If the sun comes out).
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grr666
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's certainly scope to remove the plylining and dynamat and insulate the sides. Thinking.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 31 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

*steps slowly away from the conversation
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