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Lidl's 'CTEK' chargers on sale from today

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arry
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Lidl's 'CTEK' chargers on sale from today Reply with quote

https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=9575

14 if anyone needs one. Not bad.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been running one of the non-display ones for years, perfectly functional on a variety of bike and car batteries.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I've been running one of the non-display ones for years, perfectly functional on a variety of bike and car batteries.


+1
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


You aren't running the bikes charging system from it...? You're just charging the battery. The regulator rectifier has a diode so you can't shunt current back through it, only from it.
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groovylee
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think nobby was taking the piss...... Laughing
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.

It's 11.99999999VDC you FPOS.

srsly tho, my older one has a mode specifically for charging feeble bike batteries. It's even got a picture of a bike with a light next to it. Must be legit, right?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


Probably, as your alternator puts out A/C power. Crying or Very sad
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


Probably, as your alternator puts out A/C power. Crying or Very sad


You can put DC through a rectifier, you'll get a voltage loss (2x 0.7v for average diodes), but that's it.

The regulator is another story, design dependant.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


You aren't running the bikes charging system from it...? You're just charging the battery. The regulator rectifier has a diode so you can't shunt current back through it, only from it.


So how does it shunt through it when jumping from a car?

You lot can't have it both ways.
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove prior to starting.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:

So how does it shunt through it when jumping from a car?

You lot can't have it both ways.


Because car alternators put out a massive current, and diodes have a limiting current over which they break down?

Jumping a bike from a car battery on a car that isn't running is fine as long as you disconnect the battery as soon as it's started. Jump starting from a running car is an entirely different matter.
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Bogeyman
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a special trip for this tonight. Thanks OP.

https://i.imgur.com/MS2LsoK.jpg
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Because car alternators put out a massive current,


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
MarJay wrote:

Because car alternators put out a massive current,


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?


Huh?

I can't remember the last time you hooked the mains up directly to your bike regulator rectifier...?
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TbirdX
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Careful there fella, that things got a FLIRT processor.....
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?


Huh?

I can't remember the last time you hooked the mains up directly to your bike regulator rectifier...?


You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bodyguard wrote:
I made a special trip for this tonight. Thanks OP.

https://i.imgur.com/MS2LsoK.jpg


When are you replacing the engine?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:14 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

TbirdX wrote:
Careful there fella, that things got a FLIRT processor.....

Make me.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:

You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.


The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:40 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.

FPOS. Mains is AC, bikes needs DC. You need to tap the bare wires on it 50 times a second to ensure that you only get the good half of the electrons.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:

You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.


The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.


You should be working for Tesla, you may have just sorted their quick charging problem lol
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't buy them
I woke up one night find the flex around my neck
which caused my wille winky to go stiff and messy
nursey says I am dirty boy but it was that charger what did it honest
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

you fucking piece of shit
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better option would be an imax/turnigy lipo charger or a lipo boost pack. Similar price but more useful.
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