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Lidl's 'CTEK' chargers on sale from today

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arry
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Joined: 03 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Lidl's 'CTEK' chargers on sale from today Reply with quote
https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=9575

£14 if anyone needs one. Not bad.
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've been running one of the non-display ones for years, perfectly functional on a variety of bike and car batteries.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
I've been running one of the non-display ones for years, perfectly functional on a variety of bike and car batteries.


+1
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


You aren't running the bikes charging system from it...? You're just charging the battery. The regulator rectifier has a diode so you can't shunt current back through it, only from it.
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groovylee
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think nobby was taking the piss...... Laughing
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.

It's 11.99999999VDC you FPOS.

srsly tho, my older one has a mode specifically for charging feeble bike batteries. It's even got a picture of a bike with a light next to it. Must be legit, right?
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


Probably, as your alternator puts out A/C power. Crying or Very sad
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MCN wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


Probably, as your alternator puts out A/C power. Crying or Very sad


You can put DC through a rectifier, you'll get a voltage loss (2x 0.7v for average diodes), but that's it.

The regulator is another story, design dependant.
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Surely it uses the wrong sort of 12v DC for bikes. It'll fry the stator and regulator.


You aren't running the bikes charging system from it...? You're just charging the battery. The regulator rectifier has a diode so you can't shunt current back through it, only from it.


So how does it shunt through it when jumping from a car?

You lot can't have it both ways.
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Remove prior to starting.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:

So how does it shunt through it when jumping from a car?

You lot can't have it both ways.


Because car alternators put out a massive current, and diodes have a limiting current over which they break down?

Jumping a bike from a car battery on a car that isn't running is fine as long as you disconnect the battery as soon as it's started. Jump starting from a running car is an entirely different matter.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:

Because car alternators put out a massive current,


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 22:08 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
MarJay wrote:

Because car alternators put out a massive current,


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?


Huh?

I can't remember the last time you hooked the mains up directly to your bike regulator rectifier...?
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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TbirdX
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Careful there fella, that things got a FLIRT processor.....
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:


So, the system in my house that provides 240v at 30A to run my cooker in my house can't?


Huh?

I can't remember the last time you hooked the mains up directly to your bike regulator rectifier...?


You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 11 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bodyguard wrote:
I made a special trip for this tonight. Thanks OP.

https://i.imgur.com/MS2LsoK.jpg


When are you replacing the engine?
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 08:14 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
TbirdX wrote:
Careful there fella, that things got a FLIRT processor.....

Make me.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 08:23 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:

You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.


The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:40 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.

FPOS. Mains is AC, bikes needs DC. You need to tap the bare wires on it 50 times a second to ensure that you only get the good half of the electrons.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:

You do every time you connect the mains charger to the bike.


The charger industry is a con, just take some mains flex and connect it directly to your bike. You'll be reet.


You should be working for Tesla, you may have just sorted their quick charging problem lol
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Don't buy them
I woke up one night find the flex around my neck
which caused my wille winky to go stiff and messy
nursey says I am dirty boy but it was that charger what did it honest
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
you fucking piece of shit
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 12 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Better option would be an imax/turnigy lipo charger or a lipo boost pack. Similar price but more useful.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 8 years, 15 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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