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Royal Enfield Bullet 612cc project

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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank out of the box.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TupCM45IFxu4joOzxzdQ1oNFxzo4HtDoNe2nah6CxtWebt4yq27qXNrd_vLebzBVtrtsWrrtGZ1NNI56x6A8jqjlfqW1HVa8y6OlD1gYlGU8NoYSrYr9lTR0dmvqATutFp6Jpjfsww=w1180-h885-no


Pumping oil along the hollow crankpin to prime the big end bearings. On a standard crank with plain bearings, it takes pretty much all the pressure you can muster with an oil can to force the oil in. This is a roller bearing crank, The oil just flew in! It's outrageous how much less resistance there is, the higher flow pump is going to be under so much less load than the original pump was with a standard crank! Feed pumps going over pressure is normally a real problem with Indian Bullets because there's no form of pressure relief (Reddich ones had a valve in the crankpin). No worries here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gxI-HaOMnlOSid5i-hpIZWUoNxad9XVqdwZnl72oth1LynpoCbv45GG1CP4lzprvtpiJmiiAnWeLMa13hdPXHzXb7rxFnXvdxBD6iQzmWX387qqNdIJMhR1iaEJ_wTkkuBWkUhdsrA=w1180-h885-no

Oil oozing out of the bearing. Crank them wrapped up in a bag and put in the freezer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EXmRZz5MljcoE9qg0UUyVGowqfio3-9hWsuIWu6I5jYMVSqUQIsqMBLfM16uLuEKsKBFDIwcGyQE4iUU3qT0OdXXrRVeDn00ATIkf0sAAFSX7GtvRLacv_e8Yh1702Ji7aqoYzEPuQ=w1180-h885-no

This engine was a basket case so most of the crankcase fittings were removed and dropped in a box before I got it (stored under buiulders rubble by the look of it). Just been working out which fitting goes where and checking I have them all. I will be having alloy engine plates but the steel one is handy for reference and thicknesses.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/axEhkYKxCQv_257fdSKD0yLC-UT-KNVuUXV7zTEok-WQH4b-jevm2cLPRdMFwykwV-91xN9kx1MPaEjvNy7pYBSJJejUaI-leYSu6rejrwMhvVjJqebvPEGs0TnjmYv_36eKT-tlZA=w1180-h885-no

Going to fit the crank to the drive side tomorrow if I get time.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Lone-Wolf
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Joined: 13 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


Decompressor valve in the other side. This can be replaced with another sparkplug for a twin spark but then it would mean kicking a 612 single over TDC by brute force. I'll leave that marginal gain to the racers and keep my ankles unbroken.



Wotcha.

Mine has the long throw roller bearing crank, but a standard bore Accralite forged piston. Compression ratio is about 8½:1

Although it's only 570cc, there is no way I can start it without the decompressor. I'm 16 stone plus, and can stand happily on the kickstart for well over a minute when on compression.
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^..^
L.W. - www.moonshiners.org.uk
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major milestone. After a couple of false starts, the crank is in.

First false start is there is a thrust washer I missed that fits between the crank pin and the bearing race that isn't shown on the parts diagrams.

Second was I tried to fit the crank into the bearings with them in the cases. Turns out I needed to fit the inner races of the roller onto the crank THEN assemble the crank into the casings.

I'll add one count of a mullered timing side oil seal that should be fitted after assembly, not before.

Anyway. I've opted to use gasket goo. My favourite permabond A136 which is a thixotropic gasket compound. Stays liquid until compressed. Any squeeze-out remains liquid and shouldn't block small oilways if a little gets into the inside of the engine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YE1uxkZ09sxzNZldWN3DL7CV7lVoBokt50WiiOEG1_NAZdOb95VqxRkVI2jEZFO2PgfDfwP4wRcLfvRXSN9IHbyoe6UutPyo9CT77HzHF5mlFTKo9zOcBWdWKvreUdqWzJUxWbdDA=w1176-h882-no

I put the gasket on this side because it has the studs on which will help keep it located properly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N19fltU_ghMyV6sAen08tg22XiZyV680w_R-ek7sO4VzRl36LPupaL7QByHAOzi8yedd3e9FBb83vR7LDx2cbA-L0Sr9qBTN7zPaMFBdNOA-k-Qfr9F3N0kDnSACAxf9BiaYApyezQ=w1176-h882-no

And the drive side. Notice the inner race of the bearing is well below the rollers. This didn't seem right and a check of the parts diagram showed there to be a spacer piece which I'd thought was an old inner race!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uEdfXt53Za1YLECTZFogZxkVSh6OUjFNPAVyAZmDjPo1C35mpZIu7E6OnfOsAv57UsHcBwZV9dzjhj-ImlzF_0kuGDbFRaf98k5oPwHDjZi1jk4-moRhdGbINialq8aBkbPl6NhDCg=w1176-h882-no

Spacer piece in place:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WsyvcoLo9BVtxtqhxD_Aszu5rwxzEYmAEuoiGzkJtirc52sIqKHnz2tisr7HPisdOVHb1apSZ1REV44u3LGG68EmG1EfIeJ7FTWNAriaT_DY3OlGte0NGzJPlkrrZpcm_JY60UN2jQ=w1176-h882-no

Very cold crank, padded conrod.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZKONdzPZ2psl3fFnLc_o4IqeWZp1JL5khiOoYbqOSHvfbL1kLuUzqTclVeOjwk4Ybu8rllS5Zp-KD3URs8NDQpaht6NHmrnSfrqY9H7YWz3VvQzPD4ufoyQLqrixHN8JtJq1APr_lw=w662-h882-no

The afore-mentioned thrust washer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sAGaEHXuizusqjsktvksLA-73lmv4Su5Y7W-hLSJJZM-vpRXseq6H1Yayr6CBnQm0VdbwbKE3rIbS9GlpRTwOevI7Kbfd2qOkTsZyNH4TTN1ICOIq6rpyPCn9Q-VJFwlsKqz6C4HAQ=w1176-h882-no

Hot bearing race out of the oven and straight onto the timing side. Almost completely home first go. Wound it down the extra couple of mm using a stack of the old bearing races.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L2fDfbZwEr7T_1XB065WZLdspEugI8M9gSPjXRwwnX1ZTkGgYGGFeOEpABrLkEpq6fEN6y5sNmIOcniNOb49xgl4uka86j2Vp2RxCKAhISe4-s5Gp29kX-s-YQXNeBVTzI1xwqJrIw=w1176-h882-no

Likewise the drive side, that spacer came in handy, also a couple of spare engine sprockets and the alternator rotor.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NePV1WqXZeAjzDxfUUdgaMAEVIMSsgms_1ZOLsZe9-IaQWdnvETB-J1XcOVGSAxUQPCAhAyuAvSN0D447QfKhPY9OUbPH3sFDRfoRLhApjRhcMuG_xfy6jX-1-HXRcYNo4oCIjCJmw=w1176-h882-no

Donk. Duct tape supposed to protect the oil seal. It didn't.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f8gOlQQzDwLME4xhTnFj5lNJTfPImJgNsZ11w3WUzLEd2-zbIxqr7qsK_b8HTrSPdjdYJEGyKpPaKqFYFsfH6b4uTkHWLTFvrMOzqHtffA75iX2fkbcbOXOr4Px-Nbv7BnzfRF-CAg=w1176-h882-no

Again, use of old bearing race and a stack of washers to wind the crank fully into the case with an old worm drive nut (reverse threaded).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CAnWhhyj-BaFBXJu3D1j61NsiVqnSYDU3J58aPInOUtKZWwChVU479y-jsGD2w8N-Uln5NL9GLMVjDXsO1jXiw4CIQpcm2buCHjA4RGG8B0EHETGCmfvHi4DCMBBNPY2HLnVrwTciw=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MVsCZrwBDt6UKJf8QST7mSw8HLI2496qJtaYm0VWujbM8cJ9gkxD226Ain6FETpUTSlkbE05wrZ801a8XVXDIngshzNtQ3acsZiA0nPQ267WRifRF58Cg9dLYvAX9lcwX6v8MTXNbg=w1176-h882-no

And the drive side. Cunning use of bits of scrap aluminium box section.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h9abxpA4XZECrDhJuzyaF1c3oaWNhCPpvUpJEKMYQyBkgiZgl37Klj_xWcaXcKifGsgc1kWZc9Z08Ho9TddkbXxmp8Hko_dHJGJtSO0kbEZmfSxzL6bDXwfTIB4GKnoAm6RLvY2K-Q=w1176-h882-no

And nip her up,

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gCMlgxkNYMC7Y5LxiiF2V5OmTVipoOFAH8wVeJUkTAPtTafc5_8o3nn8926q3Y5NUR7pKSZPb8SkaJMT6LPSVDiPlhLoYRP3Ro3j5K7x3A3uqtbQXAvfH15rTSMFnQ5imqhBPIjFgQ=w1176-h882-no

Looking more like an engine now. I've had to order 4 new studs, they had suffered badly from sitting in a box-o-shite covered in builders rubble for 4 years. The vinegar treatment removed the corrosion but the threads have had-it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XTlg6UXeNWSO_m8TF5xm2dLmuCUExbC5cOTG6Yuk1aRA1eP3A4LXFrz4S2K-4q0u4NMVaFTvf0dLSUj_lnWy0ZijNZ63ooMx_5Fipa1wb45JXKPfnPSwoFxW6jqcIiKcajV2Qz6Ccw=w1176-h882-no

I'm pleased, I've heard quite a few instances of people getting this far and finding the engine locked up. My crank is rotating freely with no play so I call that a win. I think a lot os to do with cleaning all those burrs and casting marks off.

Some measuring to do next. I need to check the baseline deck height so I know which barrel spacers to use and the cam end float. I'm too tired tonight, I'll just guff it up and I should wait for the new studs to arrive because the crankcase halves aren't fully tightened down yet.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

crank in cases and turning freely is a very good moment to stop on a high point, i dont blame you for not pushing on. I might have to get some of that magic red stuff myself, is that the one you were saying you 'permanently' sealed a jawa crankcase with when you were fed up of it?

I remember mention of something not coming apart again without a sledgehammer Laughing

Cheers
John
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 10 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

virus wrote:
I might have to get some of that magic red stuff myself, is that the one you were saying you 'permanently' sealed a jawa crankcase with when you were fed up of it?

I remember mention of something not coming apart again without a sledgehammer Laughing


Yeah, I used green bearing fit. I put it on ebay for 99p as spares only when the centre main bearing seal went in the end (and no way of splitting it). Had some numpty repeatedly asking questions about if he could use it to make a go-kart, had compression etc. then getting humpty when I cancelled his bid on the basis he was expecting to get it running again and I had clearly stated the only possible use for it would be for destructively removing internal componants.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 14 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. I can tie myself in knots with maths at the best of times. However I'm pretty sure this is right. I'm writing it out longhand here because it focuses my thinking too.

Basic calculation with no base gasket or compression plate, I effectively need to work out the volume above the piston at TDC and BDC. Divide one by the other and you have the compression ratio. Then fiddle the figures by adding spacers at the bottom.

The surface area of the piston (if it was flat) is 59.45cm^2 (1/2 bore squared times pi).

I know the head volume and I know the piston dome. I've measured the deck height and the piston protrudes 3.3mm ABOVE the barrel. The head gasket is 0.53mm thick.

So there is a 3.3mm protrusion of piston, not counting the dome which works out at 59.45 x 0.33 = 19.62ml.

Head gasket added volume = 59.45 x 0.053 = 3.15ml

So volume above the piston at TDC = head volume - dome -protrusion + head gasket = 110.37-50.93-19.62+3.15 = 42.97ml

Stroke is 103mm so the piston moves down by that much to get to BDC. It started 3.3mm above the liner so it will come down to 99.7mm below the top of the liner. That means a volume of 59.45 x 9.97 = 592.72ml

So volume above the piston at BDC = Head volume - dome volume + swept volume + head gasket volume = 110.37 - 50.93 + 592.72 + 3.15 = 655.31ml

So compression ratio with no base plates or gaskets = 655.31/42.97 = 15.25:1

Yeah, so that'll never work! It would probably ding the valves anyway.

It's also very high. I have two compression plates at 3mm and 2mm thick. plus a base gasket. Lets use them all. 3mm +2mm + 0.5mm = 5.5mm.

Raising the barrel by 5.5mm will add 59.45 x 0.55 = 32.7ml to each volume.

So with 5.5mm of base plate, volume at TDC = 42.97+32.7 = 75.67.
Volume at BDC = 655.31 + 32.7 = 688.01.

So CR with 5.5mm of base plate = 688.01/75.67 = 9.09:1
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a bit since I've had time to mess with this.

Picture showing the deck-height measurement I did last time to begin with. See how the piston sits a long way above the top of the liner?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bvJKQkkBOMlJ-sW1HvIV_fvDWBuHNpqTXR5QcKHf0f6u9owGiIRDN3mva3-n4K84H9bhZtId9GezV5pi0gp2Y0AXo20kNNERmvg0Tu00wP0g8iLG7Ye4M8BZdfh4KE9hk3E7A7Fj_w=w1176-h882-no

So having established I need to use both compression plates to obtain a reasonable level of compression, it's a case of bunging the top end on.

Massive piston. Handily marked with "front". Set the ring gaps 120 degrees apart.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3ZK4pcQOStd00JOxkEDBoFlvgtNxs0E1QjIOrltsDsb3FeM8X24xK4kEIsuJLpEOG8xu0W_kvaUidtPqG4KkDkmPQjhwxuDbHoTmZpX7OxQnND1qsNUR-YV8bKe6duxQ5KOZanmE-g=w1176-h882-no

In this case, it's easier to put the piston into the barrel then slide the gudgeon pin in than to slide the barrel over the piston with it already attached. Left hand circlip in place (you need to slide the pin in from the right hand side or there's a stud in the way).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8X54kNVsbHk7BvfS4vTlOAfYj_wLKakBSfGIQYzbADIeiXfYO9xjeqrp4TSQN5PqUUOsrbdDWLgX2c3uOWiOH3SVupL0HYQRaYkx6sPbtZAow7R7rsuNERaqiWJoka6wa3aFr4dY2A=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f9mpfaH83EDfNJfQ98kc0LCU8pqTs7Scl9w2OE02ilA6pH_gVxv3_fs5fZFmfBr4uNsHihUMGNS1f9KXxlawI7UnGEE0crOGhHIc6LOylgNxLy8-Yu_lGLfT_qD1YH25wX6e_eZtwQ=w1176-h882-no

The top of the crankcases is pretty rough so I've opted to use a decent bead of sealant under the base gasket.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PgbXKaYJVo2yH4Lupq3rk-VU7NSS_6OaBHuq_KhrL5RY2YiPF0pDlAWwb21PhIBFOwF7I88azIO7OcgeCcsGBJJufZXXpM1sxOwK6n9F1Ehs0J5ahx_7mOZ4C9nD8w7llhao24xufQ=w1176-h882-no

So I've gone sealant, paper gasket, plate, sealant, plate, paper gasket. If this doesn't seep oil, it'll be a miracle.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--KGHKk6-pSZGfDZYR1dw_jEQR0GyCeJb9dw3U4udK5wRTMFwk5emVbnrKbAn3Ofo-xNJLRrpuHoiMAfo3UdBh-f7dgChJY1gCcxrf5KN3NqhbK28YD8mkg6a16QkvGf0yMole7nAA=w1176-h882-no

Then lower the barrel over with the piston protruding from the bottom, slide the gudgeon pin through and (having packed round the crankcase opening), Insert the circlip. These circlips are really strong! I can usually fit one with finger pressure but these needed to be levered in. I've taken pictures of both circlips in place in case I have a panic later and wonder if I've done it!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/63kjOpzJZe3aF9PDZM5Wvxpg_4wwrAhTkOkFBZUm6BMJW8deu2B2kl5yVvCOSuXe-KXj1PoB43MvzUWEf10uPOjuRdB3VwCwchzH8j_Ydr55UIGJyABpdxLXhwXVNSFGlhJabVrrlw=w1176-h882-no

A tiny amount of squeeze-out of sealant here. This is the narrowest point where I put sealant so I'm confident there isn't any elsewhere, this wipes away with a rag. Even if there was, it's fully non-setting so wont block oilways.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ICn_jbvqws_4NK4Z7Os_XMSk9RhfCGcrdq6uHkoV7Hf-xCKpQp2a404PkJiFZgqpsHMlnZFN_sdgkRLKSMeCSoxs_TmLI3aboi5VQiEJ9SAkPM5OQIBeoz_nALtkSnZwF-NYG5PSrg=w1176-h882-no

Now have a positive deck height (edge of the piston is below the liner.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R6rnw7IIaw6kz-G8qsTuVnSL8rwShJ3zkCh5QpGdYM1pnQ1NRdNRdy1BLO9zAu-1k6E2tAq7Yj7x65xJCjwfLCrrFzqCoZH-uLFPsN4HT8jm-5n48o-6NtEVpln1ERwzaPX-fCUHoQ=w1176-h882-no

I'd calculated the new deck height to be 2.3mm but I've also added an extra base gasket and would you believe it, it measures up exactly at 2.7mm which should put things pretty close to bang-on 9:1 compression.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g265sTYSocTaHweZgtY2MDmaV5Q793QKDGQS65vHWi5H1qsMVR4yHzVFiitkmgJId2TW3pv_7uxe2TH73P0iHbDT7yp297o2khjrR3jjwo3qOh7T1nBLMjplKdLZozrZmiu--WqRTA=w1176-h882-no

I'm using one of the Indian copper sandwich gaskets here so I'm going to use sealant too. Next time the head's off (probably after running in for a de-coke. I'll make a decision about compression ratios then too), it'll get one of the new composite gaskets with a built-in fire ring.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fd1aCkU5RR9tO0AShhX-P-hJp_g52_ofIpXL7M87MDkaYUc1yNui2HQj5WKTeCtD2RWbbNECq-_oIKnXDu7vlp-dhRfM-7-G-9SSdEK31LyQB9cPGb01Eym27l1IQh7HipfFMs4hig=w1176-h882-no

Just a little, I'm not trying to glue the whole thing together.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HThwPBmh6b-MwSV1YAyTJiarhfTXqWp0zeFR6aU9mpxo7mjVwcqZ2LoaZ4S-2KJIYzp5pr461Z_I2MssYwcuUqOQ-QBCB1ArYM2S92WwG1uzx8OL2jvFRCfLIVeM25g0rDnaNLmdrw=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uX8tAl3W-DlkuXf1XxJCJDol-Za3g5LUk53LQQuHRP2UJC8auUa2BOLDD5JlfOyoQqe8qcgxSUmMCBnasCn0wewvu5bvDBxUk92KCBF5Cmo46tm8t6WwTUx5yMHoYLCGTVvCK7AADg=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2BLENyLCc2T8RBv6URK4OsRmmBUlQiLfbYVnVERV4Cbk7RZ5Wro6Fik4LXe1DZI8_p-wIsIRWX5Tg1047YokHr1gIpSR3zVOT_EyKJTPsM3yBbY1xqr218efDKLvXQ5wgyzUzZ7kNw=w1176-h882-no

I had trouble getting the head to go down square and fully on the spigot. The stud holes are a bit wonky meaning the studs landed up not being paralell. Embarassingly, I called hitchcocks to check I wasn't supposed to be using longer studs before I noticed the head wasn't fully home on the spigot. Loosening the studs then re-tightenign them once the spigot was fully home sorted the problem out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Br-hW-udM0sGHv_VXodB6d6m4ComAK6AgJ8WZR1hRFj60WCZYddMA_l0TkAePHO3AHIrqRGswex612UgvuxKtxGefkonxuonFDkCL6IpCM9A0VufaA7fRO4d1LDxFPVb9WTOS_WZQQ=w1176-h882-no

This is important. These are hardened steel washers for under the head nuts. The standard washers deform under the pressure and can jam the head onto the studs solidly. This can cause major problems and actually stuck my 350 head on so firmly, I broke the bottom ring off the cast iron barrel on my 350 trying to remove it. The square-ended studs and hardened washers mean this is unlikely to happen here. If they jam a bit, I can unscrew the studs and free them off.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vX3LYOM0drX6vt3L_dTKdQ3QXJU4y4Z8ABrVqvJ0KGH3AXKE3p9PE82J-pmLYLqYZ-91gIm8BVwHwv2Y2s2mOb0DLZfSlEjPpabYWvVdZQTlVr7q7JT4StyhyNfUMnm8sE1_1Rz10g=w1176-h882-no

Torqued down.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UOG146scbcLr2ZUY0ELdqgeqF0rS59uhjGx4i7y5ZAD7W0tGVllGfjs3M6FH0-ods9HK3jUcG9Ok1xGSsHB7mi0ilYR2cEc7trYUGY5kzjWJ2Nv6_ZQ2iRwpLq92UAZHyoKmuCc2fw=w1176-h882-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 19:58 - 11 May 2018; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few more bits and pieces today.

I'm oiling most of the parts as I assemble them. I'll also be priming all the oilways before I even attempt to start the bike. Cam followers in this case.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QUC7ALdcwlOAHwfS0j86a_lj7Jzrhj3uiUSnJRX3tspnlavHnlhrTqCDbeXef8ubC3c13iXDaMaGdJI-jWYKJYtYoLYpaG0J1WjKWLpCGY0xXOp5AjnrvbJ7PNnh1QBpTsDbju59OQ=w1176-h882-no

I need to check the cam end-float (follower clearance and crankcase clearance have already been checked). So cams in and a small piece of plastiguage on each.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AkKSsuYDTSwF6Jz9ImEJWZHy7d2ov8mU37X7iUrJSrxX8C7D1zJY2uxB2bB4HdeLPlYF-oFi0BIIEiLkG6omlkQOke4ZwxSFSpYoRIPPCui1Mdr3pHqJlz4Jd4DzqRKU4OyxsAtMeA=w1176-h882-no

Cover bolted back on. Then removed again.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PrypBM8JSAjBVSAgWqlEj2MrT2Z2Yrc9JBOUtYiLQmUJIIMaCLiAfu90F5TNOTc_ozzFTwCnFAv1iCCwGqhA3mBgdIRXwJ-TEc-PVCelnwT9kBRMQjl8LUmjXN64XRqS6FMnKuBdDg=w1176-h882-no

Then look at the plastiguage to see how wide it's squashed and compare it to the chart to get an accurate measurement of the gap. In this case, I'm so wide it's off the scale (the gap, not the plastiguage). I want it between 0.125 and 0.2mm. I've ordered a few 0.1mm shims, I think it'll need 2 or 3 per cam to get it right. Sticking one either side of the cam will act like a thrust washer and help protect the alloy from damage too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jiHwGylfSuZEYY_CzfE23fimigJfo_ba-LeYDhJt785kq7pVLlVubmrVu0RRfPD9NYvqf8Aw-_bd252z233fORiurXuQkoNs-slMVZGz94pZxelvnhh62pWqjuCvHnD08dMhWeI5jg=w1176-h882-no

ANyway, no point waiting for shims to be delivered. I can take the cams in and out very easily so may as well get the valvegear sorted out. First the timing pinnion which is keyed onto the crank.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o-x7TRyI_nEcQEjvC7DtAiZdpc0dHssboS3MaPTMEXgyuiUUS9ug1X8nHpIvAsK1pI1-qH9nvfoSUoC8ShwZpoMfR8IAOdu_GiEYhsq5mYUm6re88PQl4llSeSm5qslMs6e2UtUC1w=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rJuLVbiMCrkMR0Xl2i2HqZ40OuqEawFziS7jJKpaGOKYhN-dXzYRRvvAy7ngv9-sRN6zeRyRd2vf1WAu1j8787InSxDSbSzXOhTsx1cq_H9LmM8pCMUTrf9uUuDySylKqStstX8-Qg=w1176-h882-no

Tightened down with a new oil pump worm drive nut with bonded viton seal. Taken off again after so i can see the timing marks. This is reverse threaded.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vwE2RTBSAPgHDsKN8WUagEhI3tzHkZZwj4IixwASB6KAscbTQkyctKj--grsWXI5izaNi1jA3ifIIYQKiaeB5fMA9JstNhNhawCaiyREBbCAKw7_ArZr7hy9pJpHvbpu80HsuUNMIA=w1176-h882-no

Valve timing is ludicrously easy. Line the two dots on the exhaust cam with the two dots on the timing pinnion.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m8ffKVd7czc_hzcKNyZoLaW2D8ZWeYf0jZt6EoxijXXzcBB4fpvJ80A7Zw2-xRUiP9OaRHZN3LTzCA3AK_O-T4Vo4CMbkEN7vVvy2QgYu3k376ny-ifPu4WTvh5NsOC-Qr_Bv6qy9g=w1176-h882-no

Then, without moving the engine line up the single dot on the inlet cam with the one on the exhaust cam. Two full rotations and they should come back to the same place. Done. Some people retard the inlet cam by one tooth for more top-end but I'm going with standard for now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tVoE7IVDVYh3b-Fd_RBcyHoG6knXv4qE3CgXxYfWRcRX0zsg-z9hOd76lMrtx4Z_GQBzecQBRIJF0TkgK24Jzrnpbg6XqqXXot2S-kOwzT0b9xELYwJ2Wx0fnCAcurzdLOjLmlqeHQ=w1176-h882-no

Slide the pushrods down onto the followers (exhaust is the longer one).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d8p_Et0iV9nbRCnTT2EX3c34z56tWOJtZg7AQCUWuMsHJ-5bhhsYcoeL1v_VtLDkJSHGIhHDFgVyylZLHwLNUnRNN5S3-dB4-sAJKp-u2qO30eiIRJo_HGr8bgEgtXvtDIxEs2GFOQ=w1176-h882-no

I'm using samrat rocker blocks. I'm using the o-rings here sot hey are pressure fed. This is the subject of much debate in bullet circles. Many leave them out to prevent the scavenge pump going over-pressure. I'm going to be fitting a pressure relief valve so should have no such concerns.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aZ0rzymeQS9N2WeqwjbKAuBUVJwOa7g6fbVVO7NRQf0v-e1UmWa8xXFgh-LRX4pxowtV6X-EdFk0xf17-DozC-IwxyFkK8FqdYnkyliOpfA6DryuMPc_cbbViOcErHaoZr-4nMpnGg=w1176-h882-no

Rocker blocks on and torqued down.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7DhjAdcXRzdzlF0giShwmO3VGGXkQVU1GsbtFPRhV4y-NAa9oCX-JZSOYG1DyxVa-VEG2FSAH3d0jQy6J51uqNek8ovOMLGtxoPhhZGF9tGb7cWAHVBc33CWYD0Cf6XG7OC-IAZ3-w=w1176-h882-no

Set the tappets. Normally a bullet has zero clearance tappets. On the tuned engine, they set them to a ballhair for the exhaust (0.003") and half a ballhair for the inlet. That translates to a barely perceptable amount of vertical play on the pushrod.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d9ynXIn4_PV0yKozvhUinzauAdINGSv_7Efc1U_dDTSFgkiSImNovswBcKYlmv9ReGg30TdQ_2n7f23QCYxtA0BaRQnXPa78IcIaX0zp25CeiaOn81X6rNBeblub_DKpfuwhYgyGIA=w1176-h882-no

I think that's enough for today!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This seems likea good poijnt to put the engine into the frame. It's easier to do without the gearbox attached. I also need to check there is sufficient clearance because I've made the whole thing nearly 8mm taller and the inlet rocker cover is a relatively tight fit as it is.

The engine is a stressed frame member so removing it causes parts of the frame to spring apart.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/drcIcR7p2XPnEmj58YP3XWI5UFMf8Ei3y9yUPo6e8j1WjteHjI9ljC3RbyKvN3YNZcUVpFZkfOF6W6pXTnTkuMI54fa1Wkc-Tmn_wSqDqB19PDd3wyWZvNtCadV1IPEK4GrcBdiUxQ=w1176-h882-no

The gearbox hangs off this bit by two brackets. I've put the stud in to pull the frame back into alignment. I've fitted washers in the place of the brackets for now, I want to get them powder coated.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dnbc9XUBKggZizEd9h6dOntca3xSRXwDaruJxSM48m8Wd2_ETVuI4-AuVR4ielSP3wc9cwCh2KI61bAHoZt3ykTGa99LHYAq4_puhZFn25EfwPn1dSWNPPHgMVbMqEmPPN-tkGQz6g=w1176-h882-no

No mainstand and a ver narrow swingarm you can't put a normal paddock stand on. Two axle stands do the job though.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qGA0Zy78f5ToiEDNkGnUL5c70csv-iyvvtYHEJ5kOy0_kk3V6LMJ4u76dd96cD2sDvWjwIK7O4kINs3rCgewn_pz_aDWOlZjbgt12oTLS7zULnGT5tmpi4vHebv5UvEHPXNUaZ9cpQ=w1176-h882-no

Snazzy stainless engine plates. I'm having a couple of alloy ones made for the front too but they're not ready yet. I can swap them over later on, everything tends to stay in place providing you only remove one engine bolt at a time.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t-flXnerjEW-TMlcxrJ8kmYqxXEaY7OkVjD9G4piSc0IxDjtF6oWO3k10qJl-mGBqpvCvE5qjXD3ISBnaQWxIiVnfGtlShiyEThEUlRSFKgUEsUlmNF4TRUsPFas0M4LtgMLReTPTQ=w1176-h882-no

Ready to rock.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sVps895LwIL1ZH4e8iFkHapTfGQT-xoA9jYsRZpoNNBTuKxIvhcNaGpfRY7E3lpnCw0G_Di9RUdcCyK6p31brcNZ8m0pcqO6nK80iTRKPxrEQAsX7IK0PbK7NjNKZ0F2mKnF4nMfvg=w1176-h882-no

As it turns out, the best order to do things is to hook up the front engine mounting bolt then pivot the engine up into the frame, slightly higher than it would normally fit and support it there either using a camlock strap or by jacking up under the sump. Then fit the engine plates, then lower the engine down between the plates.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lIYuxz9VWj_M1tlKY24RlTjfxY7xjEf4HVnfP0HU8MiZWnjf0CSaZjsU8PrQhQ1CXtiVumFhQffT-BvIgIh23z5TgSnnwwBjGOvUAiR8lxqhgGP6GNeUI2YWpKw3-u72YIrMadPK9g=w1176-h882-no

That is not what I did, but it's what I would do next time. I triled to fit the plates with them in place on the engine. This was the hard way.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IHMNWpeH2aSnYKRX22r7HQRTNtNY2ZRtIMjef2X1rdOx3GHNFFN8151fgBWjxviHmQyNMKQh-DhkrowVGjp03esX1tsdssnfl4XN52w6djRITSNao96ezeA-TtT9kJhbgXZV6gBjDw=w1176-h882-no

I got some alloy tubing to make spacers to replace the mild steel ones the previous owner has hacked about. Unfortunately, one of the bits of tubing was sent out the wrong size. More delays.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5JwPnbXDemhpgsuBEVdpgmkdw_NSJolJJrZFCwMZ7xYyvb8J19AREcItpmV6nUUMde7G_GW4OUOUPoSuakjc7q695baZu69g_x268eh0eyWjOeEe5nJiTROV6ftuQ5N2OBDmfwMn5w=w1176-h882-no

Previous owners bodery also came back to haunt me. He'd used a bit of threaded bar in place of a high tensile stud for the rearmost engine plate mounting, and had missed out the spacer. It also normally takes the mainstand. the studding had bent (it takes quite a lot of load) and I had to cut it in half to remove it.

It turns out this has made one of the frame lugs take on a slight set meaning all four points of the frame don't line up properly with one another and the holes in the engine plates. It's only a tiny bit but it made this job a TOTAL pain in the arse. I could get either one of the bolts through but couldn't get the second one into the last lug. I did eventually manage to get them all through.

Having all the proper high tensile bolts, plates and correct spacers, once it's all tightened down fully, it shouild correct the set. I'ver had to order a new footpeg bar (the big green hex) and a gearbox bolt (the big 1/2" bolt that isn't currently through anything) because both have been cross threaded and messed about with previously.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H9umavR8AFPdruUWLU4mM-_4NGjVduO6C63R9wjWlsDjRiWgNCuHdCXd8kMt9rHNlyyWyFTDGzT_fDUMRJVbi114D6z7cI7vpwJAC9mu2lAUTTyK6iSHQVgpjVliWIVFQbHE1rApXA=w1176-h882-no

I intended to do more today but getting those mounting in took AGES.

There is sufficient clearance to get the rocker cover on and off thankfully. I will need to remove one of the studs each time to do it though. I'm considering putting a thread insert in the head for that one. Mind you, I can always do that after the thread gets manked up, I'll not be taking it out all that often.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 10 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, between holidays, work and bike rallies, I've not been doing much on this project.

Left it with the engine tenuously in the frame and a load of missing/damaged fittings. So, the engine plates that come as standard are flimsy steel things, they get most of their strength due to being folded into an L-section. Got my engineering mate to cut me some out of 10mm aerospace aluminium.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IFrr4bTs4DHbmat37Y_Af5fP-viIN6GqaT_K_3IKgg-fe192cxFQIpWTY4J7ZoVpT5mrpmVyZJVuz8NoM2_o__YmrmxghDqv3mpnBQxyKLHwUNzUDgTxca4pN6mdoLZ3YEv8rcGDTA=w1174-h880-no

Neater, lighter and stronger.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2I5fDBtIWkJPsplzzufeku61yeRsP-PiZRwdHt5IsRgzWbO3nPz5msekECnKemRVVSZiQHwU2cC2w3qUJUHbX71u07CvKc4gDqRZdTRtvneW6eB6XqBgf8-HohZ-WDbv5cWvubsigA=w660-h880-no

Fabricated a new spacer from aluminium tube and fitted the new footpeg bar.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j1sY6x_hkcuTKmfCnPBVN6XjUWm90zYM3rLT6Am7YCv6OzT6WWb9aEpZSa-eNH_UxWYz_6sw0AOr7_v7R7hdvl3Gj-Yq-q_QZvBsvFmk9kBcwyJfGHL7iBWHnb1anfMuG-TqANIxsw=w1174-h880-no

Getting to a point now where I need to fabricate/buy a load of bracketry so I can put it into the powder coaters as a job lot. Part of that will be the gearbox brackets but mostly mudguard stays and suchlike. Mudguard attaches to the gearbox and at this point, I can just rest the gearbox in the frame to get an idea of where stuff will be going.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-styJ4Jt6h0aUUeAhUybsXukNn0GtMYZYBLwmtQSqnsMa_jaZUPo6ytwYSRMLm0jQ0Vsk-5v0PWyIFCkmR175H_K1HDhluOgK5nUn6DtetUkxFMXrKhJRoH77JiXUUwdZFTejFsf3w=w1174-h880-no

This piece of plastic mudguard I had left over looks like it will do the job nicely for the rear mudguard piece. I'll need to do a cutaway in it for the chainguard and pssibly the tea caddy box I'm putting the wiring in. Seems odd to be white plastic but when the tooboxes and tea caddy are fitted, it'll be all but invisible and being plastic, wont need touching again. It's also quite a bit wider than the standard steel one which should keep a lot of spray and crap off the pod air filter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bJJruNLTULkALvktTBC0j4im-aW6aFtaB8lH5KfYqDVobkZ6_XnE8RxH-RDaV1qi-ONP33d9obf7R5jXLDcKIjmMIyR3Cm2Rpm1p77_-fvy2_yp1S8Q1DUi9XIVvePg_y6L7lMI6jA=w1174-h880-no

I'll be using an alloy rear mudguard, it will attach to these tubular stays using a bracket I've just ordered. The stays need powder coating too. I ought to be able to fit a small parcel rack to the mudguard/stays. The tail-light unit will mount on the mudguard.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CH-wCEbA7-aXuigAfU7E-HFk059QKKFuGBPjUYKnusPjjU3oQCJWXYZKa80wthMZd_IJ-fhUVNDBBAgshO75lNtct7umru_Lib3W_o38oT2YecJI4SrNRoLljBSRMY749iVuSWuVog=w1174-h880-no

I'll be left with a hole into the timing chest due to not using the distributor or idler gears.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ysZGi7E8Ihmyq4GpktyMHpZ8NKm9tfSzMVkbM4uvKUpV3mbM98aslopREKy63gGgrX7oQbdHcmqB4t3HStYiHJwUETa5dKM01icT8F5H6-A0nvBTa8qKBOi5XVUNRTt95MvupvhTAQ=w1174-h880-no

Took me ages to think of something to use to cover it, then inspiration struck. It's just a splash cover, this bit of the engine isn't pressurised unless I've done something horribly wrong.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/euk6SrqeWF_LQEnl7lN0q000GEdxeaDAOOpPtDxWbg6_RZrX2oEXyOIW3Vmo7BlaX2DW6Y3CJy3aPLrrx3bLeMeQ9ExH_jdhB79_8QphEVYVRy5Muwne9BlBrfs27ZOG1tKpoTmy5Q=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sor-xTYJN9KZav1r3KPiVseCWAPuVy455mIiVo0VlgDb7wl6mo3qcRsaedOfwjAxctvv7soHPlJUFQuVbHh5-P5jBMa7lVb4STHbFreVRB2ibq3kt_nuEu2Jvu0NiFrsZYKoD36xFQ=w1174-h880-no

Nyloks, don't want loos nuts in my shiny new cams.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HoKQ-Un7BOwvgt9Zj2h0p2kTHnz0tODaOVL4DTMkGozL06IhK5v0LjeVH4aG7EWf2KCCkdohbDCqlpoCChyamnbJ0CGNOCvyO-PO2slGNPJIxP7IntyCD1wiqBOVl2O5SxPEWZk0EQ=w1174-h880-no

Also got new shims to take the end-float out of the cams. Two on each to begin with.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2FxNIxusU44BiYX2YhQ-RSLgOKjvxiKny6aGG5SnH4kRM9SLLxabO37zcqnHDf8llUwQkQfnWbrCgbFyYR7oLrFwTnHoAwsbRuemRG2gyRxYVrOaH3OUlHg2PLx9en6X4YouyPgxUw=w1174-h880-no

Then repeat the plastigauge. The exhaust one is within tolerance.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SR11dFQkA7FMkJJje5VH2sBjhO5nS33LheEa_SNkaeUhK-EFicfS5p4YFhc9Icjxjr9MgTPOiRI0RBDhBakk3bgZgFOVhI8WgwCp21QWvJi1IFV1G1VMmw_9K8OKOva9lJl5vroh-A=w1174-h880-no

The inlet one is a little loose still. So one more shim on that one.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VygNpHWt-tWYLqkA4BCmPGLf73fmhjENlX97JOHiY61093-qRJ-F5-CDph9wFgyvHY-tAzo-v-qNowNuYfn6jYnQyEnsOJYOTKQYJPksvK7A7_A_r3w9gzfp5EDe-SoeyYfzY8IQsQ=w1174-h880-no

After one more check of the valve timing, Put the new, reverse threaded worm drive nut on. This one has a bonded viton oil seal. Older ones use cork.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DEFYTU_WsJyZlc1YEJzaNnm-jOwnYVKdAB4fxgzYroaUOwsixJht0Um1d6j4x1AMxI6btZeTBuuB-eN4s1IDzuH8uMcfcOGboq354NGKMqDUxF2z5sUbYn7T1Oby6SAUuqRlou7JOA=w660-h880-no

Got some stainless allen heads to replace the standard cheese-heads holding the timing chest on. They should have fibre washers. I hate fibre washers. I like bonded seal washers.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B3Azn1Rwrun5iQ80h0g0Cr8uzjkTvVaZS2cLShDwDlmIZWGKwe4qQZJ9QlRDMbW0cA8LqUWv8OXMpwl1L7ufJZcgQ_66wVJ0xvCqvDqIx2Ruce8-_YGwut74Kcu75DUN414M2KlSxA=w1174-h880-no

And in place with plenrty of copper grease on thethreads (stainless into alloy). I'm taking a chance on the gasket sealing without any goo on it just in case I need to go in there again.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g4EHp6w78XphDU-S31yW0GsuTiCJ1SUWqWva2oFAD3IzAfIcUgvB49phQwYnVPw_CtHWrM9j-Oze1eyNs0DdjG5c0_wgVV8-5pxYnvgnivYErjFtAlyyb2hHabyV2coor6D6xLhuBg=w1174-h880-no

Just put in a large order of random parts, fasterners, lights and bracketry.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 24 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I need to get some powder coating done. It's holding me up. Can't put the gearbox in without the brackets and they need coating so this weekends mission was to get all the fiddly bits of bracketry fabricated/bent into shape so I can put a job lot in to the coaters.

So rusty rear mudguard stays bolted in place. This comprises the entire rear subframe. Held on a stud top and bottom. Loosen both pairs of studs and you can pivot it up out of the way (complete with taillight and mudguard) to allow the rear wheel to be rolled in/out. All the studs on this bit are 26tpi cycle threads and therefore a pain in the arse to source in the right size.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CH-wCEbA7-aXuigAfU7E-HFk059QKKFuGBPjUYKnusPjjU3oQCJWXYZKa80wthMZd_IJ-fhUVNDBBAgshO75lNtct7umru_Lib3W_o38oT2YecJI4SrNRoLljBSRMY749iVuSWuVog=w1174-h880-no

Curved mudguard bracket which attaches between the two stays at the pivot point. Alloy mudguard loosely bolted on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jdBhVYxruNAOo09o16wt3hdEmZkf8OPSctVzPmpk-i-6sclelhPPQC0gYT8H1mrbPRNqXu2DXqyrXq7QmXpYqY0iHBc9C3O_QOkQC1-lVUCCLFgCaqba41Dxsrx4lE9BW51EnXpJaQ=w1174-h880-no

Tricky to see, I've fabricated a curved bracket to ridgidly join the back of the two mudguard stays. The two sides normally bolt to a pretty solid steel mudguard which then takes a structural part in proceedings. The alloy one wont.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GXcl1OU4A-KlY-vUmlTlGO5xjvnRqqTjxoNBXglvfkuU16DOWfWyooIERORZPEHCiB_1MshpIjDOIc1AKkD5gtdC8AmVQzaehQRoh0SJViZxriCUMmuBaW58BEilvyiQOwJIXhOaOQ=w1174-h880-no

Mudguard on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZaX4MAs0XtKPshcpzEgQ3e5r0fL1hfzA4DcAYXcbcfELUdNgGooCYpHxI-91L99msbZOwoU11uwBHHPSWH23407A8gb5Sfd1wmjtH3HzU2YY2y-vFLPJyiiY2lTcOeFgRuq_Pt1QsQ=w1174-h880-no

The overlap of the two parts looks odd for now, this is what allows the back end to pivot. This bit will be out of sight behind the toolboxes. there isn't room to have a constant curve mudguard that would extend far enough to keep spray off the back of the engine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_mwtPT7JAyYT1xKyELYpCW6XaPc3OIoaO8UMOMMD07NjA8De_yOEqw6_Co-gaYQqGFjrqH01mD_HmnQS_S-XUP54mY0csxLgOUfScDRgesEs8_aDnYP8bAv5iuNEeESO7pqidZa2wQ=w1174-h880-no

Also got a bargain. A small, UK made Lycette style seat on ebay. Brand new for £40. It's "universal" which is motorcycle code for "fails to fit everything equally". The springs will attach neatly on the studs for the mudguard stays. Hovever this means making another, longer 3/8" cycle thread stud! Ah well.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Uskbh8Nt9lvur1T6Y6i6A6kiRmOPvuviS7NZzO7Q2fkMchlV7UMx9rgTxu1ho9dkWOKcz-Oth70bMeCDoG2YG1Rd1VfzCGB1IxBqoZLXvN_lM6Kh3uJcpWtZZn1poMm-l0uh2JR4w=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/re-8kjWqj7G9vr6c9x8pXvgiYkECkGqcv_ScEXMYBBqM8opudKgY-l7bh7_WQjm6eMme8eSYbVjVBIvyb39e0N70q0nSLCI4Z87MXdv2gM3RqtT9tSLOFNiwniB9wZDrCoqcBCHMow=w1174-h880-no

If fits to a bracket on the frame, this is the right size but the seat is angled way too far forwards for comfort if I use it like this.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q1LuB9uyslo5MDBTu8VlLHdGX1zWwpvzRJWTBaCC-PpRpMxVrTYx6UOQcyXg8NShv0MICF34cS_0Bse8D2HvWZ4uLm9K520TDxjjdNk5kvOGkwC2TR_tFM4H8xhyVXj4wOg2de-AbA=w1174-h880-no

So out with the hammering and weldering.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rY_OIDhNWb-j9L0MVJ-vWjm9YgnZ3guDYjsdkYcbzAaqT1N7QXXX2aqJ4dJ_aUJzngVL6Ir-dgRrG343x4L2YgLRXMDwL7--beuwZnZP0m2dQSdH33Owt0yJUYNkE6ktB8YSSjfn4g=w1174-h880-no

And the front of the seat is now 1 1/2" higher.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gX8mPAUMXvLaPSoZkTx_ZBGzk1sDQwYdILkvAhrr2EpYkqsI1eFGlvYaUJnj9oHqX7LewQI-XsDZwQ6b_rv2xKcFn_nm4IgzBfswEysi-JtsjKdxnQm3zM1CYiGrNWyBTKSj4AMPQg=w660-h880-no

The whole seat frame is also going in to the powder coaters because it just has one coat of black paint blown over it and that was done after the springs were fitted so there's no paing under them. Rolling Eyes

Also front mudguard. There are half a dozen pressed steel stays. I was gong to make my own but they were only £12. Needed a little bending to get it to fit ad the alloy mudguard is shallower than the standard one.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mkrAS8jDARInPSvRd-h6ePSPf906G-VO4-4iJU5YEw20N2PgmJzC1bkZdDXxnBpwNz1chdcgTBtgsHd148u2Y6jVyZ-9atG1k_6kT8foV9VgIoxzf-OzzC26MLe6VzKZTEY5VBopVA=w660-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9sv-sSU_I7mrH4jB6gJAUo0CNFgHhyVN-9n5mtEarKBpOkAQozAM46mLu9OIoEYXEUiIT2huWbeV6ZM-U6o0VzfZAgrvDsthheci3VLBRNHKTQWNlZfEmMLPn1N9Zt87B6TomvuCA=w1174-h880-no

I'm not sure exactly how best to fit the mudguards. I don't like rusty fasteners but stainless will eat the alloy. I think I'm going to use clear nylon washers and little slices of silicone tube over the bolts so the mudguard is effectively "floating". It'll be held on by stainless but not touching it.

Couldn't resist putting the instruments in. I'm a sucker for white clock faces. You may notice it's sprouted a tank. This is a spare that wasn't good enough for painting.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w48tlAkLRZAHPixbs6fxHGrvtGWANUEpQu1Wis3uKhSfy9znze7b13QG8jz4VdCEwcTLILnX5UXReODEMywyXTJot_vwbLqMrxKvPyfdpE8XkR3o2W0yUDYNmBwHQxUMrsnboqdeDA=w1174-h880-no

I also copied the standard enfield indicator brackets but in aluminium, not steel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dt-DXh_exH24UKZCzClO-QtZ9GGGUyp3rGpK3qrfUrJ7z_GlOqBFScciCVKrJkvgN_hoX-MuVW7zb11mY7Pz6OTg49BKMDTKE--ujC0YHGWNANEx3P7EzuAal8C1asVPQM1nTfntog=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6inBzlOS4vMRW-Ia-PlllU_Njx3xDtG5zk1far7IfIg7wMFFV284trjWVIsBYCeyduOCUg7XeFAWRJ8wh7JGjhB0p0AAXqtTUFrouj8jDXxtk2jdwjGq24Hh1xXzDJdK9a08gRlW1w=w1174-h880-no

I got a full set of brand new Triumph speed twin indicators for about £45. Nice and subtle but being OEM ones, not made of chewing gum.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/119p1vaPbZ9I4i01y3eJW8vFA2NZCCQIdmfY9_WH5MBfwNZpj1xkDlSSgTxROSTmXMVJTx7HPJEbcGMdVmlpUSlqIwQNisZ31A1J2bKshYL4E1qaASVLgLEcJRD0kL10V8vJDJrWdA=w1174-h880-no

Finally. Custom made extra long 1/2" BSCY engine stud. Needs to have room for the exhaust to attach.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vw6mgL_6upJrSayQ2ow2bvJzdHz05uICIXW7Wu5K4SiaqJUedDYaFNXwtsWH9sqRR-IAKbtbN9Z_UdsmPOo4iOwmH2HF-M-L5_xB6jPAv__sUuEaP9RJt6mDGpqIkvQzBIQbKVZTNQ=w1174-h880-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

LED bulbs don't work on 12v regulated AC. Even if they claim to be non-polarity sensitive. They give approximately 1/2 second of intense light like a camera flash.

This massively simplifies my loom but also reduced the current I will have to play with. Pretty much going to have to use DC throughout and I will have a severely limited output. 65W maximum. LEDs will feature heavily. As will dinky batteries.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 14 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIght. Mrs stinkwheel is off seing her Mum this weekend and I've got my bits back from the powdercoaters. Time for some progress!

£100 for all these parts to be stripped to bare metal, media blasted and powder coated. I didn't have to do any prep at all. Worth it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Izxmyx7QqLLdO8bqdqb__NLP700Io2CXudt83jgkvce5lm1pCL00zVNLBJW27UOugXIm2CKw5CtBLBIOXAGa_UGFHSLvNuH19LRi2CD6GQqWwXz-F6T3LyL4CWO25fi8AdwtnUoqgQ=w1178-h883-no

First job is to get the gearbox securely anchored to the engine. It has three fastenings, one big bolt through the bottom, two triangular plates and four studs that go into the back of the crankcases. The trick is to assemble them all loosely then nip them up.

The triangular plates went in a piece of piss.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/negZ6J2VTcBfdizcbvQsRt4xoQ_Z1U1aEEKFAHvY2rVbJy3U70LrfaZYJs8_OG5NrXMDoWu2zyMs1ojwOS7Twp46FwSvnKKTlHGcdjUhusnDfOBjVPapXpKochbgETqFX4-UtRsCfg=w1178-h883-no

I had longer studs made so I can wind them in and out with two nuts. You normally assemble the engine and gearbox prior to fitting in the frame. Then spend a long time swearing and struggling to get the mounting bolts in. In my case, I lifted the engine in... then spent a long time swearing and struggling to get the mounting bolts in, but this is because the frame had taken a set rather than it just being fiddly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t3QRxIHr5QQJC2PNvbG5QLHt8W-2TbRys0agP8_w8TMco4l4bDMyf6h4eO9qTOwyLf7olBQO6W__FYjjJuAmHLXH0HouRp9at0KsnkKrMjar8fHjnKVAuHJ8RdLqkEJlEjztkjZnWw=w1178-h883-no

The fitting of the gearbox was all straightforward except, of course for that ONE FECKING STUD that wouldn't line up properly. Such is the way of these things though. In theory though, if I ever want to upgrade to a 5-speed gearbox, I don't need to take the whole engine out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZVpe16_4CEemO6eGKZsf_DYfo8IdZIdUGZNP-XxJOzmcYrJtlVSPHzvXPHbpvJAQ95MvUrzfnJX3vka0DIOj23xbf65DwPnYlxx1AkYgvONpbcqnAWRIROGDlXrOqKp5U1Zhf0AVSA=w1178-h883-no

See that gearbox sprocket. It needs to come off. Actually a real pain to do with no final drive chain. However, water pump pliers to the rescue. I wonder if anyone has ever used thos things for an actual water pump? This job also requires the worlds largest tube spanner.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nbC9atZNDeKVrSd-eLUosSzPBXKlkP5r7jfPODY1MAqAktPWUChw4V7DY7saobPgrOmURHoheaxuP_6hNvuuH2enDg8sW29bsMFRc4fTe-kywB8LEKvTtVInEGds80kVUf81EJbcvg=w1178-h883-no

As mentioned and calculated earlier. I'm gearing it up a tad.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uZdlPJbjf6AHOD4ZVjrGAQJEPBm5YA3ShA4_MxGc8SSS-Kl4Qqz01MSRDDAlZHWG9sMOtbuLLzyWU4qx0pQ09DlvrMKlMyJOQ3UMp7EoUlO4S63ezwQBNjO3qKiuVC-W5F52N0_8sw=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cy8pgsWbCV5vGJH0xJFEdsbig6rnLThsenbH54zsgBXhPKbc3WJApg_jtHOLn1BO1VQAyFWhLZZlorg9LcnqC8NpELNPxmmagBb3SEdLUA9M-aeSbUrRoOJVHKc2rCLKFghxD3_CiQ=w1178-h883-no

With that on, I can see about fitting the primary chaincase but first a quick eyeball to see if this huge front sprocket is going to fit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VchoJCm_WFzG-Ll3fpGqpVvYs-O1k_wXTeDEW7KozdvLqgH7HHKSVu5HMgZHWH3xBiuBip0W76g9XDFIq-cf2WDBtuZsyxlRtzPK7hYCKqbVwAGEWyfmmKbNMWGsCtHQNB4qMDDD2w=w1178-h883-no

A miss is as good as a mile I suppose. SHOULD be room for the chain in there too.

New gearbox shaft oil seal fitted.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/77qBvNlS_zhI7WZx8o0iF6Lx4MmLBxLOiyEkteIIgM7onRwFTuiBS0wKX13C2cENsXBOoe8_pDWR6G2Lvulqfi8N3Zm4djesI4Po4WBRG3jyzCBpb7vDf0BD6EjUh7RoAbLc4AJ8Xw=w1178-h883-no

I can afford to be messy with flange sealant here, this bit doesn't communicate with the engine. A paper gasket goes on top of this bit to stop any engine oil that blows past the crank seal or primary drive oil that weeps round the casing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ycr0RVWoD1ec416UCPMmlkmyfWWhr6_54__aTun0yEl7SWiL5tV8aKj9WBCvhMZmHnS1zIahNR-O-77kzX_SCg7oH-JaMkuPz-vbLu1zLom0y4nrMOeC2_HGed4iUR1CKNgF9B0WXA=w1178-h883-no

Cover the splines with plastic to prevent damage to the oil seal. Dont panic, there are two locking tabs on that washer, the other one is bent over.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uvt6hBNMJ1lEKw4uYXq7JLsohJobvNuj8sk3kKR2jhoZK1SmWQHL8L5oUYOgnjtJcM-K_EWxfQ9jhaIw_QlPHDcRd18pNSlGQA9VOLuB3omvwsPnDT3DmdViIJWNYdbrg_r02dgatw=w1178-h883-no

Primary chaincase is only held on with three nuts. The little metal tabs are to support the crank oil seal so it can't pop out. The tabs and outer face of the distance piece are a tad corroded on accont of having been sat in a box behind an Indian take-away for 4 years. They are gong to spend the rest of their life in a bath of ATF.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NY4h04i4gdDiDue2O_pHsPXlHcbYuJhdXr6pzUmFp8h9MGKLohj-NKD1abzOu_-95Yjr1jva30Mv54ltlIKZjqrmIkbOKh4gQCt2sfVd_p1xS5vG9yMyh_sNxI7SNBeFF6dcJ7wEXA=w1178-h883-no

Then the engine sprocket.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aILKGu053jucvx_86p5yKiaH0v9q-p3cl9lQHGcKBno86qr-tZl8Tpc-GO3x-sr8MzyTzxyozL7zb_GHWtJc5WccXwtYuBHBea5lVsfcc6xNOlGX4DMBk425QagvpcG4zz0dTF2Y0Q=w1178-h883-no

Brand new 5-plate clutch (standard is 4-plate). It stil may not be man enough for this motor but I'll give it a try. I have some ideas if it isn't. Needs dismantling first.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oDZv7b6FcWYgo2bh9PFW8fI73XQgzUDRWUSshaB4zJzbNER15I48X0XtVRF9MehSzdauahHtclwHyU_WMXA-9S2Z9YFWkMeJ4M-2UKJMcD4EsSN-QCqgh2kbIJjxFvaeEWuPSDnl-w=w1178-h883-no

The springs are going in a box, I have a set of really heavy duty ones to fit that came with the 612 kit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/au4M7QNbyL1ffFCIgW0IauYQDqu5AdyuOMqDO9dNAIpUHwrzCQHK3369mwBCDZJP9q0JrxZYarzp03_AOBzgeNyNDHOgXIIqSjtWWlEAQAovIEVAWUup4H098CCFvda4mJT1FC_uwQ=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xhtnksx8oBLk8Y6AAGxDZoQiTqpPTRUCNU2dwDNFRp1zbM5DEyn33guTSRMxIdtEEuXsYzmTCoIct6wVttyWD6fb4EXT3EMmbcXNQo1yC6qZRNsbx6GcECleUvZ2Pwr2dj13KA-PuA=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jyNRYHEI9-Tn76Q1YgMmt5x8vu1rwOFLYORVhXnodL9EJUgx7ZtgQKod0eJ8QqQlSeW8PlEI7doT9oP-vAF8ASTxFHXn2d-JqMiqOIOsxiv32QZ4Y8n1pjWwdqKvYn1SJvv80dgfMA=w1178-h883-no

Do not skimp on primary chain on a large, high compression single. Get good stuff. This costs 4 times as much as a standard Indiam Primary chain.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7CvVI7dpHMDxiU-wNBZam0IrCHRNapdCdAETvmAn7GBva8hum0PVeN9ZIowzGpa7ffbZY1gIe3OLV4jDti7jU363PeYJu8tYNDN7gpaZiQa2CgHP7mPLYdTB6X3dqEOi4y5NE9TdVg=w1178-h883-no

It's endless, you just slide the clutch and engine sprocket over with the chain already in place. I've not fitted the tensioner yet.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SINc3385GzB1n14mbCgyM65FvOWVR2CM3Cy9H1TuzkiMrAMfk-EeWfTh85wPxGpwSAIgNaRHoZFOHuzM5H2ltwRXgEQBa0bUPhnKUW9koGbZ_84Pb2beInCNBNXtO15Y7SULFsVWpw=w1178-h883-no

Centre nut on and torqued up. I am pleading the 5th on how I stopped the clutch centre from moving, let's just say it was done "New Dehli" style.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/44-TG0Vms81V_WZAdu3YeDdk3wUQgn2w_zJXhfxsFQubl7U0DeCaqnjRZRi077iPz2peLOXgW5GSEbSLd3cI0khacYnzdQrSvo6Fbc1BI0HzVUtufcSHHvnvDM0Zl61bInJWrJYokQ=w1178-h883-no

And don't forget the top hat thingy for the clutch push rod. (I've missed this out before on a build, even had oil in the primary by the time I noticed).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bOA9LNLcgA3j8aDCF7Yf-LPCjbD1WTuM7FcaIlYUFf-go_QlSrmWJBzwFMhs_VlIMS6VS39o01e2qDtryspvQmWeBscaL9he6bKd4YrGnj9fZpPSvqYqAdt21J8GXb_R2_Id8Qu6sw=w1178-h883-no

Ok, now the clutch is on, I can actually turn over the engine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pbQh7RaFKV4U05wyFXluiQO9uH6xZEgSTwDTunX_h80dnydrAl4B6zjpUU2PVxe2OJO5mEaDi-ugJprdMZ5KQBVpKzvFSai2ysZKQzyXww2WW5LBlCYHuuRMNfysS08FVtl3M31t-A=w1178-h883-no

The kickstart works through the clutch and gearbox.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7lvxCsb-ssiFmpAb175LCUwNK3OU3WOs7mGzfNRYKJ-1OdUawRSE3KGa4Y1SVRnUeS7r6qewcE84vdu5vcAkfBtZmk141dRx4_XlbFpMic72EIGsjlcCeot0UXxk61-4BewzWg6IA=w1178-h883-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:43 - 14 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So now the engine can be turned, I'd like to see oil going through it.

Got me a bottle of 20w-50 mineral oil. I'll probably use higher grade oil for this bike (you can get 15w-50 semi synthetic) but I want mineral oil for running in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/45LiHdPRETkMvQuZXV7zO0EUbaT7i0by5xCiltLElVnbzP2IhNR68fVVQpd-5kgN8sZ1Wb7WVcJC1j4jxo84AVe2xe6juAlf4t8W5AYNmO460IhMTtth3uY3peRvY-PUyT_zfKIgRA=w1178-h883-no

I mentioned before about how the oil pumps can go over pressure. Especially the high flow ones I have. If this happens it can strip the teeth off the drive gear and your engine is toast. There is a solution though. You can fit an aftermarket pressure relief valve. This also means I don't need to butcher my rocker blocks to increase the rate of oil egress.

Thsi kit bleeds off excess oil pressure into the timing chest via a valve built into a replacement tappet cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SKqSfzQ0wqf2XoGlRLMT3TVOUOQSTCi-MwDBdhL_P-XYi2iryI4Loe_8e8gEwjX8bdBMbB80VHqIT45Iuhj_W1Qltj8KhFLHLPFmnkpuMKF8BzW7dYEM1ibCb1UqibyUd73jIwh2CA=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HHirSflAs9nSwbGYYZMOOhSpkyspgOQEs2qRWhzCYNzDjidv32lceNB90PWUtD7jSoLv2Gu7jXGWZ3vzj0l2JFTu2LQhv6LbjX0xgO21884d0fHV_LlzCHhKNqbSfIwIbTc-kNeQDA=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eURUtq6tHi1-imFKjuSf7fpD7BxTAC8XD-O3ygCb_tmyigkVfRgAjRpx2fDwQPpF6SRRCSTZRFpn3pn_B8wwNzJ-_x2-_HZZS70JlJ3qIkS3rve75W3OJVGEEW4xtfEYM8lTu8GWow=w1178-h883-no

I've had the oil filter soaking. I'll be using a packing piece (the bit of machined alloy) to reduce the time it takes to fill the oil filter chamber at startup.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UDGyKl68ZDCV6aNWh17TlvpuinGENC7eZ-3YyUERxFDmhvVHKjfqX8pMnzB-1AWfMlBLwFPG2_c2uojJOx7tRKRDXfj31Pje8CdJBil389Xh4jzSi6t9T1J8J43qxj-NTBzYflv29A=w1178-h883-no

You can't really see it but I've also fitted a magnet i the centre of the oil filter element.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2PHYcBd7NQFnCBRyiJ3_PeGQ6WAZF_TtKDZ6N9PZ5MglM-_zpStMx1m5AnOfATavgtCQZolZ8ADUBDXcNpzqD4jPWw84SD9wkEwvRvgZgBZapmCxGVTVxPYWLG55-6ZQEsFwbhOJxw=w1178-h883-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zRzGRxEwgYIvrux7-rqx0McYRwFDDeV7cmBJNIXRg2MD-41UeuXagBriEqSo5HNJJguwjYwQBQ1-o91Fs_EvamZIIEgcKGCN9DUOw2y3Kjj-8kNCaOZ0OryAv9gMBzc9sY9xtynH8A=w1178-h883-no

The timing chest holds a good 2-300ml of oil so I'm priming it by pouring oil down the pushrod tunnel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3OpG31Tx86jLjPCDuEBHMgC-I6beuYJANobsCqnRC-49RngnoYrdOPVZQhq5TpO5pjHCsA39b9SldqUD3a-7XNd0wO5Nhbr-d_a_86ZV41fMEJdm08XaLo1zIlC-Le0bvcZq_jvzwQ=w1178-h883-no

HOWEVER. I forgot the put the sump plugs back in forst! So it all went straight onto the floor. I use bonded seal dowty washers on my oil drain plugs. Perfect seal, reuseable and no need to ramshee them way up tight.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5AM6nfzVdgDkpNMlSvqRgLOQapM-N88cAjaQkHnB-xp-xzsC3BZq_4qSv_yIbebITV-36kLuwSVm8nfe8pcH_CLcuAbqSgFCT84cXGrSa9CKi2tfDcyQGf5oeDYX1tl-A1eW8FgdNA=w1178-h883-no

So. oil all over the floor notwithstanding, I fitted the drain plugs, filled it with oil then started kicking the engine over. This is exhausting and take ages. It's way easier to put the bike in gear and walk it about but I don't have the transmission fitted yet. Anyway. The feed pump pumps oil into the end of the crank via the quill bolt. If you slacken the quill bolt a little, you can kick it over until oil seeps out round it then nip it up. That's the feed side primed and working.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FraPfvVP8B1XmZexWHmLXE_3Wf-6JoyU2sY0whXBkH_fLJFskEaN8nd6ydR_hxiQQb0Q8qurxAcwYf7YKx3su5g7q2yBOIrL1_WpCj7Q5nR2goTQzLp7nICe8fbZN6tHSJWFwdi-pw=w1178-h883-no

The scavenge pup picks up the oil that's dropped out of the crank bearings into the botton of the crankcase and pumps it up to the top-end (all of it on a Bullet, most Brit bike only feed some of the scavenge to the top-end). So loosening the rocker feed banjos and even more kicking (I'd estimate 300 more kicks!) sees oil seeping round here too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t3Hab5sQ6JBs-H2PVAeOnahEsN5UkrorryQbYb_7rt9ZL0wpOMNC3n-s-gBFfwZ-zsosCormKjiDQvXLVjEMdjiOISbZWchXVViRFCZJlaJQuG8dl2f_Ws53VQjRqkRStrvVJm1jyw=w1178-h883-no

Once those are nipped up, it doesn't take many more kicks to see oil seeping out round the rocker block. It looks black as hell already, but remember, this is the first couple of cc of oil that has gone round the whole bike after the rebuild.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jq4ExSBt-0QYP7xls_5hFyqhLb5iaazZ-04xbt8lKCj3Ov0grTiKBHuOLYwMYjnAr02k8mdlWUV2zWwZkjAmcMzvqc7gFvDy9Q9QODWlCkjwultl4HA4yq-hrqljf0r11MTbyLz-ZQ=w1178-h883-no

Enough for one day! A good stopping point, it turns over and the lubrication system is working.

Tomorrow, electrics and possibly carb. Odds and sods of bodywork if I can be bothered with them. Maybe even a start? It only needs one wire to actually run (and one to kil the engine). If I manage to get carbs, cables and alternator fitted, it will be hard to resist having a prod at it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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aceofhearts
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PostPosted: 01:44 - 15 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great progress Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not uploaded yesterdays pics but it was a frustrating day of nothing fitting anything.

Who the HELL uses an M7 nut for anything? (Well, Citroen, but that's just them being French). There are three M7 studs that hold the alternator stator on. Nuts lost long before I got the bike.

I have just about every sized nut in every thread system known to man for this bike but not an M7.

Tried fitting throttle cable, too long. Need to make one.

Tried fitting mudguard stays, dodgy thread in stay. Have to buy a 3/8x26tpi tap to fix it.

Gave up for the day.

I did make quite a neat dead-stop tool from a long bolt and an old sparkplug for when I do the timing. I'll put up pics at some point. I just need an acurate TDC to set the rotor position for this bike, the timing is on a vernier scale on the stator from there. The tool will also be handy for setting static timing on the other bullet.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

suzuki loved m7 on the oilboiler engines too, rocker cover bolts are m7 as are the cam sprocket bolts.

I may have a tap to suit what you need at work I can post up to you if you want mate, I'll have a look tomorrow at the wall of 'every fucking tap since man invented threads'

Cheers
John
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

virus wrote:


I may have a tap to suit what you need at work I can post up to you if you want mate, I'll have a look tomorrow at the wall of 'every fucking tap since man invented threads'


Cheers for the offer but I've already ordered a set, this thread does appear in several places on the bike and it's not always very neatly cut so It's worth having them.

Mind you, even my local huge steel stockholders didn't have a 3/8" cycle thread die when I went in. They are pretty oddball by todays standards.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dead stop tool.

If you hacksaw right round a sparkplug just below the hex section, you can remove the ceramic bit. Also remove the tang at the same time.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ec4lnZdF0BPSuVPYlOwva7xqtWYzioJIOi9TILFz9vJqUzw7cjkSxLFTyXnGi9G7Sr618IKrBSvO6oO8tcps2HSwlGM6XHwNL-kAjIaZBFGGihb6HSKmP-0vmGLvXGxXe-7cMdplJQ=w1174-h880-no

You can then tap a thread on the inside. In the case of a B-size NGK plug, an M10x1.5 goes down there quite smoothly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gOrC0dtx_njmOq-hdgJB2wmTPi0iNZNK095RWJxNGLdU_0FcugPHp_HJmwM5IfVSsmvL3HN8jVZaMxU71_gURrK9YEhbrevzjIcs1OZ31lhytFZJ0agOukHJszZLbt-tweK_BAexZA=w1174-h880-no

You can then screw a long bolt with a nut on it down the middle.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GJEjWcBtb0T1YINMZqKwmNedbBi_1DTjZMoJImfThga9o9aGEFGWiQLw1vWZB1X4ovBIAQaeTNNMVHPhqNkTJ3GFACJHhP32dGsCLBYfQNQkaWtxlNIeAMhBu-1G6_GOdzlt_hHucA=w1174-h880-no

The whole thing screws into the sparkplug hole. (the bottom portion doesn't need to go in all the way, just far enough so it doesn't move about).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/57kdjILy-G9ES9h5pHeYB0vTxDG4ipKwwsi-7100gS9bl_MKVTjE-hu8CGmeidjCxh8NChpfFTtEVMezZQIYfnDCe6Q6WN1pLIXMdd21Zw7F-bOxx1bGvhnlCrRabkbTmUTCjJuGVg=w1174-h880-no

So, if the bolt is protruding into the combustion chamber, when the engine is carefully wound up towards TDC, the piston will hit the bolt and stop. Now back off the bolt until you reach the point it can go over centre, turn it back, advance the bolt a tiny fraction then wind the piston back against it. You now have it stopped at TDC.

That's what I need to do on this engine for fitting the alternator rotor in the correct place. Timing will be set by degrees on a vernier scale on the stator.

On my other bullet, I set the timing by mm before TDC. Normal static timing is 0.8mm BTDC. So from a dead stop, the thread pitch is 1.5mm meaning each flat the bolt is turned advances it 0.25mm. So half a turn will give me a dead stop at 0.75mm BTDC. If I want to set it at fully advanced (8.5mm BTDC) I give it 5 2/3 turns in from TDC.

This would have been much better if I'd used a 1.0mm thread pitch but I had neither the bolt nor the tap to do it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

no worries, sounds like a worthwhile purchase then.

Im still going to look in the wall of taps out of curiosity now, I cant remember seeing one but I'm no bible of non metric threads really.
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 16 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's in the box?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/brIeiTh4FdsTG9rcy3o8EgPS5AKad8IwaazysETcDb8u6uipsMZHeGDv0qm0j7K8PUmX2jtV4U7UPcBEtr-mG7rRbab763w5nnpGFZksiRjKyU-Q2gQvj2TuhdQkU68DavwfjN4xpw=w1174-h880-no

An expensive pile of electrickery.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MgxPE4HEMzKUjKXCpE9aIQ1dA0ZRCziD1TLmzO_KzPiryhnVKFidTRy8wS3GUjQNgZAhuIYYJFFm_3qkFZ37yb06CoZW_3N1gYGNcNDUMozp9syIpZtLh9iHua40H9_PmAU2C6Izog=w1174-h880-no

This is the only combined charging/ignition system with adjustable timing that fits on the end of the crank. There is a standard setup that can be modified to fit this bike but it's keyed to one timing point.

Why would I want this? Well, this way the timing is accurate (assuming the electronics do what they are supposed to). There is up to 11 degrees of backlash on the distributor cam so timing is largely guesswork whereas moving this setup by 1 degree is both possible and actually results in a 1 degree change.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9s5fPMx2Q_-mRXMInn-1x_VJWkOSGebThsn23G1Jhfr0bBAiNjvaMD7EZ0ZVLjTpQZBg3Yp6LD2iPQKNzORc5cQVkfsFcTS_QQh_cCFDkEKJWH9XLWucKBsA_7e4rwIncSWkFuGJGw=w1174-h880-no

The other upside is it self-escites. It'll run with no or a flat battery. The downside is that to fit it all in, the electrical output for running the lights is very weedy. 65W maximum output. LEDs will feature heavily.

So yeah, I got this far before finding it needed M7 nuts! Rolling Eyes

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UuPELra_ACUbn4LZ_Qs08ZYgfFlc5yyQPsnLGgO2qGVrkCdZz1hlPCUUM_tABWZpD7zS22tdzK7aJuLGIYZVclqzZbmEjoaIZHV6ugx37rw8t7ZROmT46yxgYXLA3PD2YMwm5oixOw=w1174-h880-no

This seems like a good place for the ignition coil. In the air, out of the weather and close to the cylinder head (but in front of it away from the engine heat). Standard ones are mounted on the rear mudguard and have a massive long HT lead which has always looked like a recipe for disaster to me. I'll make a hard earth point on one of those captive nuts with a ring terminal each from the coil backplate, the headlamp area and the battery negative all bolted to the frame.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Qe5B0ikmuk8Y0s-oXjD2Km75e7tv1kUC8V8kW2f9AkECTGycdXrNs82LhVmk8x8e2uC25NJ8zt1JjJOpMXxNhXHq3kJF7_x8NqYiSyeLRfnqH1HPS8r7cjS4wqqdJLSVyJiy08tSA=w1174-h880-no

I must remember to properly earth the engine to the frame. It's been powder coated so I can't rely on the engine bolts. I'll make an earth strap.

Anyway, since that's as far as I can go with the electrics, may as well fit the ca\rb.

It's taking a big Mk1 concentric Amal carb which has different stud sizes to the tuned head as such it needs an adapter fitting. This will help keep it from overheating and the slightly longer inlet tract will do no harm to the torque.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kx8NgFcFvDzZJY6XS-mWw3vO9y6_mh2TVPHQha0G8SkvoANbIMsJVB4Q53K3iCT7IyhveURL6t139IGJJguYFfpGs0BGt-q-aPI4xRF3AHHkF-THOiOOcM-XhiQjVsJvoELIBmuEYA=w1174-h880-no

Another expensive box.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NSmK66X8NV-5ALonJAoyF7wpgZ13ro5HwcD3Ji-agj523q9M0nGJMcM5Id08UvgR9sqpSrCw17Uqu8tjy-TcQdX5ycWgndKNib9UOoDvSVxCY7jPyKhiiEBjqhrqFWfmmzsmGDzxWA=w1174-h880-no

Shiny. I've already made sure this one has a hardened aluminium slide. On standard ones (like the one on my 350) the slide and carb body are made of the same material and they wear like hell. My 350 carb body is buggered now and it's hell of a latchy to start.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e4puHenuFtfhW2XZSYA5IoZZYZfUGu90uIa0-ayQbaOYtzoGds5ElLOtxwteV-9BxAJ091joLfan2JHLcZC06Pa-1Q8gDoNTkk8MD9cDyJ3BQ11TaTQapPXOiPYXeqVC9sCq4tRZwA=w1174-h880-no

This is new. Posidrive screws on an Amal carb. They are usually philips.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zLoK6reAfwsa3P2X07uOJtGLhOcOBrTO76g0t4bNbLJHFoLZXGgcjVLUryVOYgrH-ljLy9bCHcyzcLAOAkjs7Cfv8IPqJfasoRFp_JtCHsiNpusO6lPd84zKtqvHeleqw-TNuV-U0w=w1174-h880-no

Cables fitted. Also noted the jet size and needle position for future reference.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xjfx0nWPDGFwbEeozQHkkDbvGeyBUi4TP1M6CxcsivnQfIFTsAVtA1nw_Mkejcm-OCyeCDrQOpI9ifNTh2oZv5bSeQ03NjrwhqBAGTTvHjVHsUi1_L4qWodnbdH4U5TYn_BU5mgRGA=w1174-h880-no


Carb and filter in place. There isn't going to be enough room for the original "teacaddy" air filter box I want to use for the electrics and battery here, the air filter is too long, but there should be on the other side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0w5k7WfXDSJDHWaKK1JlFMaP9AoH21iy2DeKJlj0tx70MRAhxUWexjCDQrbfFBmFCoECb8ZUCYxYBWEGxgLnv59ib_zJVNYIc2i2nNGd1dOo1ZDfZVqXnL6StL4Wss5WxgDqQe_6QQ=w1174-h880-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 17 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YE1uxkZ09sxzNZldWN3DL7CV7lVoBokt50WiiOEG1_NAZdOb95VqxRkVI2jEZFO2PgfDfwP4wRcLfvRXSN9IHbyoe6UutPyo9CT77HzHF5mlFTKo9zOcBWdWKvreUdqWzJUxWbdDA=w1176-h882-no


For other lads, not this case, I would be careful with using sealants on the crank case, as when you've got a crank case with integrated gearbox, you might find out that, after you're done with the rebuild, your gearbox might not going to work. Razz
____________________
'96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1 (sold) - '90 Honda CB-1 (sold) - '88 Kawasaki GPz550 (sold)
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; At my disposal: MZ 150 ETZ
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 28 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have spent FAR too long working on this bike today. After the second occurrance of knocking over a selection box of consumables (assorted washers the first time, assorted electrical terminals the second), I've decided to call it a night!

Anyway, progress.

Earlier in the week, I bolted the rear mudguard carriers, mudguard and seat frame on. This means I can now sit on it and make brumming noises. Not entirely straightforwards because I had to attach the mudguard bracket off-centre to allow for the seat spring attachment. So ther mudguard is about 2cm off-centre at the front end. The whole bike is so asymmetric anyway I don't think it's in any way obvious.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/We6lpYNt7yqBNOg9uC9Q3XGWkBwgxIT4pnsU0hThZ_Onpwvi8sxv2YvNU7YALF1Cox9hx0oStxUxMW5aS99jKZKSx5aiDDTpzOgpddbL4Xvkqi6psOhuPwClpUu2IjE42-0_HGdV9w=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TnFspYPO_Fiz70_buyV5CkplLnL4sh0m-osOteBsNsxv0vjmVxPVnt_2_C1jpwQuuZykDjq6MKKQCP8wTqkmVqPHr7NWFP_FzI0JXLQo2m_Sdo3lBiWsLwuPPc1WATR9J-M_bazCgA=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RBhvgn4JccSyffSYKYkU6x_fcps5UoE7Xv3VGHNvZKmfQ4dskIEKaaNl4LXUkWaI_rtyFvaQDmJAk23Ei8PZuj4DJ2lzPuuy9_zcf13iQEDprLCEhOZpXDj2n-IJFYsZHSdwS2EzsQ=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ak0nBUMgitky2mp3aJvFsfOyBuFD6aLtF4D8M3AvNq8YQxayLWIi0DawbbWEYZFAEKF_LZLNBCttEUDWWUW-beIOd7oQDtLm6O8J5sqtK9B-I8hkdBf_f2Lg9tswCqUs6DnrH9cSyw=w660-h880-no

I've attached the mudguard using A4 stainless fittings but I've put plastic washers between the alloy and the fittings on each side to try to stop electrochemical corrosion.

I also got my three M7 nuts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rSex2MCcTirsYkq9YZJvt2HQyK3ouQeNe8zk0ozVapVUF4ptuza2kdP9Z-u_GqCc634q7sNDZo7NLzq_TKEesrvo2TLX1T4PU74e1VaMbp9fvMltukohWCWh8JZyAf_zgUsF6gxc7A=w1174-h880-no

It's quite handy to be able to turn the engine with the back wheel when setting the timing so I've fited the drive chain. There is a gnats cock of clearance. I had to wind one of the crankcase studs through to the other side a bit because it was fouling the chain pins. The side clearance between the chain and the casing is normal and larger than it appears in this picture, the casting is actually slightly recessed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dzQsWHxNgcFIykRpbjnrTUtQaWBB3B9jyWv3CUMatTY60xivDqhBcCJiiWs_XFUMBOQfmKLPJU_byRCjxmtj70XtoWkNGuBD9ju48538pJT6Ot2jKBHZfN1NRghci-0bnkveAGUz4A=w1174-h880-no

I had to take a link out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kz7RQFw-8iMWLV6n5QuyZ6vPOooZu7SWtr5d5nYwCdug5wtrJFVokKQF-3F2LqXBijTk6RAYGB5oROtk7m6NZTTo4ozeNQCP5dHmWvLZSbcabe7QCFrj5zXQX5GLB1REmDuxQehWNw=w1174-h880-no

I don't normally like using split links but I may be messing with the final gearing at some point. I also suspect I'll need to remove another link as this chain stretches too, it was only just too short to take a second link out today and it closer to the far end of the adjustment that I'd like it to be.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vjGeQt8RSsPL5S6Hon7P5rHIPK0lq4CP9L5CtN-CApfrLzyswSTn7UqMpSBArCFDu-328B4-ImLtQqSXE7JSnp1bA493rA-5QnZY-Dn3QfxkKxSOzcwqnmHNbwSRoxhHOTCKXXoWBw=w1174-h880-no

The electrex rotor has a vernier scale. You set the engine to TDC then lock the rotor down with the timing mark you want adjacent to the red dot. For future adjustment, you can move the stator either way. I'll get a strobe on it to check once I get it running but I've set is slightly retarded for now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RW9g2IYaJxP-aZOcLf5AWh_iKaeX8rxKyeYL-IDJdrzJqN3LgTdkmB15aRHsu5Bs2sUnf4g5oJHWelSls3A7f3QGSbgWQLIObLgRaPnjaH88vmNP_uFSj7dEKNfM_1UcBw0tk1FaVg=w1174-h880-no

That rotor bolts down onto a tapered collar that slides over the crank. The standard rotor is tapered and has a woodroffe key. I think I'll keep that TCD stop tool on the bike, I don't entirely trust this thing not to spin up.

Anyway, nothing ever goes totally smoothly. Once I torqued the rotor down, the engine became stiff to turn and there wqas a godawful squiealing noise which sounded like it was coming from the gearbox.

It wasn't. The rotor was catching on the stator very slightly. It's a god thing that a taper fit will often release again soon after being fitted if you give it a whack round the edge with a rubber mallet because I don't have a pulling tool for it. I had to fabricate a spacer washer by enlarging the hole in a smaller washer. This is easier said than done, they are very tricky to clamp firmly enough to drill without warping them. (not to mention it's a fortunate co-incidence I have a 19mm blacksmiths drill in my toolbox, not a common thing to have). This solved the problem.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fTHbUnkbrJoCiaXBqkNM0-uRwOe3FqwOntQ6eKHv-aaX6SILYFrr7fpxcY2gGgrRWWByvsqgTeYNkpsqW6en1_yveih-Rgz3ZwvOsR1moxQZc8HqcyBIPlCBlUtMbv7ho1vTXvTkGA=w1174-h880-no

I also fitted the primary chain tensioner which is about as low-tech as you can imagine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nuWszVt0mcS6xlbdWD789yObntMTucLEjCfbdHov98MTLCbvJIKIQFiWEZtVJ0VavDQehnRTLMN19UALp1cdpuS2rHM8JZw6JscRvZ2JaYJLS7KwkBHHlFT1E3azTMJWUKFAvR75pA=w1174-h880-no

Now this thing is often referred to as a "tea caddy", it normally forms part of the air filter system, connected between the carb and the filter in the right hand side panel. (It was the entirety of the air filter on earlier models). So anyway. I have one and it's an enfield part so i thought I'd make use of it.

They do not usually have two holed drilled int he side of them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SFVAUgY0hkfuoLY5fNMOzA5acngGecQ8RUD60t2Q0MoPx0whniEMmAXu5xrbLKR3ghbRz4crFK0FsM2AYi4f8_6QepI0mRCAgJIgBYsEVyN6jqdsFHiDcfggtuMExtYsbYQNyUXRUQ=w1174-h880-no

Bit of alunimium L-section with some bolts in. Hole centres of those two the same as the two in the tea caddy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bNuuLq4TkmX9nvNWIJxwnP3thG0JIDrdsCVV__ekTZHgKnd9DwZj2gUh-5zZQRiDasLGUZo9cCUweAcSwWqwOFUVTX93blPR4bPP2OreOHpQOLznc_9xXIzJjMXJh7Nr3GTkkocYJw=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dNmU67b7tX4SrkEFsDylEUnwbLrdqwF3CxPexjsyAhmMtTtxFpSI7gHjX4oD-PvZtqC0_9VBAhFeVrexQcIhVE-3D_nCN3qj7qFrPF4hDFkDBXBZIS0J1zaMjeq326vvu6OFVWusBg=w1174-h880-no

It's a battery shelf that fits inside the tea caddy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ltjv1KDrHOCLnrhCN6hiLCPoZ-7eLee5TO7QrXln94jGR6coDT3onqdOD18vYfs0ur8xiaG23RGbXbBjaq6bK6zslLaldG0oKZaqF0hisdyYyjg12GJT66z3MZIC_0b8_FOBmP1FFA=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kn3FdFIIw-Xz-36f5dTR2zAEtroRVd_O9KiJ5y4PFOMEyI-2dhztb4fCjWzUHnIhht6MCVLH5JtqbmrLAaJwGZW_UBqytBUFu_8nKfzNlwIjOlWcstuwF_mpSaIPijj7wJTtQhxaAQ=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eYa8gwlmpnnsI5ae-iPz4r02aBaHm4TQgZDZflo8xCvQ5FyXnsSBXEHIltni5yj9WB8oEz2iVV0ql8paZpJs3Q_BZhZNtXORF3gNBX9M3SGxrDZFOSTXf8xdh_401bdKxYeNET27TA=w1174-h880-no

I'll use dome nuts for the final assembly. The tea caddy is usually on the opposite side of the bike. I'm going to get a couple of big stuffing glands and run the bulk of the wiring through here instead of in the back of the headlight to allow more room for LED heat sinking.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zv1bHYqo0ez-82tWg7JITLAeZb04RgcljTHU7GEmoMjsrI5XCg9ezji62DZ6qVgiIDN7LlasV-7viovqpYFxBr1x4-iTrEIrYqh8Tq4nG36ZhgZJJsiCrT_2TdHqeXXrjJwrjAb39w=w1174-h880-no

Little bracket from aluminium box section.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tWWKkXiIK1WTSkVg3AOUtWYkeWbweDyCLBgfFBouJW9vTvxKcKWPaBchM8WU7Mj3HjnBiPEW9OBOpI7BE9yti_gpOLHiOicIHX4kQUmD14T9OcmgHBtrgWVw6zgboC0V0BnKRk3bHQ=w1174-h880-no

To hold the CDI.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xq1ElHirM9vjMew8g196r0s2AnpV3Q8OB9w2knZXyM8gNJZvdBR-kWifPbXoVGO4mhFCta5wasRM2fEa9PsHiqbcOQ9xKmXQIiCSEWYkShUv8iXnkRNtrE4P_2_BDvZ2gf6Lu8zBvw=w1174-h880-no

This feels like vandalism but I need a good frame earth (the flash makes those scrapes where the screwdriver slipped look worse than they are)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wzbXl63-LL1e9D6pPl17l_BiYvP0DUGXJdxwU85w6Y-ARj7wwhAMgs5DW_zhUIp8SEupucg62SmgJvrZNUQBp51EPrbmC8SCikhHwWxBBMlR5TlEvyqpXrIPmStLBz_rWNhdochi-Q=w1174-h880-no

My initial plan was to mount the CDI in the tea caddy too. Turns out there isn't quite enough space for both it and the battery but it's the smallest proper motorcycle battery I could find.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/el4eJ6UTCZ_DEdpnDraQ1chQuuwJF-EwKe_nTo7i1TZeIkkOjQDSK7jGkoOCvwYdpzCUjSEr9__XurcZ4r0TTkfktzIlKHczBwA2p88rZgJTdwk_7kL7ECtXDp0HIM700jxTasJFDg=w1174-h880-no

I'll bung it here for now. It may land up in the left hand toolbox.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H87E7rMh-8fYFqQHp_iY6t8arRE4cDqQp1fSGCEDxQrVusrZCTTwvzAwOd93tzuCOinq8gO1k0Ek3MMy9tfw0ALW2xOLrkPxnPl2m0R--jxuXvLtL521LDaHX4sAVHP-C4zmEhdiZA=w1174-h880-no

This wiring is just a lash-up to see if it works. I'm going to use multicore cable to make up the loom proper.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jxETm1wxzWPJ79Knfsji9ODiO9MUv73Mri7_JORjcz3dtZiJuAr-SHsbiQCGvCkCOHQfgRCQwIJ9blHaTtvO3kc1TTRmhvTT2rK_QiZ2018nzUfURXsk6yt1K2WSQC-2jAbED_aCMA=w1174-h880-no

However. It has a spark!

Worst. Video. Ever. However, you can see the spark (just nothing else) so I thought I'd keep it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFDpmoVW8wKfgdXc8

Big order of electrical consumables in the offing. Need to do a more completer wiring diagram.

Oh, I also hooked up the decompressor to the choke lever on the C50 switchgear and it works a treat. One less piece of handlebar clutter.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:17 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spent a fair chunk of today doing a wiring diagram. I had all sorts of bright ideas about relays and suchlike but what I really should be doing is keeping it simple. The lights are all going to be LED so any inadequacies in the switchgear shouldn't really make too much difference, the lighting should work perfectly well at half the normal voltage.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7qQMG2tBdYMwj0_vdq6ZG4SJqqjZ6p3TaZQ7z8yzvMlvEt5tbX3v4SzjVgPt8osJ5AAFFPHOY_WbA261Vpw2x6vySgES_Rzk9CdjFoVpVLAsTH7GVLpo0fy6BxdkM-bsQDO4aHIYYQ=w515-h344-no

Having done that, I can work out how much wire I need which then meant it was time to throw a pile of cash at vehicle wiring products. The wire colour will undoubtedly change as I'm using multicore wire which will mean I get what I'm given. I did the wiring diagram on Open Office Draw so I can change the line colours at a click.

I realised that the throttle arrangement was just annoying the crap out of me. For some reason, they put an adjuster about 6" from the handlebar end of the cable that was supplied which makes routing it nearly impossible. They are invariably too long as well.

The solution is to make my own. In addition, this will let me use the throttle tube that goes with the C50 switchgear. In a vicotry for hoarding, I raked in a box of old knackered stuff and came up with a broken honda throttle cable which importantly, has the angled, threaded widget that screws into the bottom of the switchgear.

Then it's a case of firing up the solder pot and having at it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/piMWowC8pwpO-7QtTlmZ_qB5dTnJdQ7d-rYT-Cx9b-Zk2d_DFkzLt2OVAcdcvyMXQt4yiwE0Peq75cDQDvUpl2F96bmaK0fLthhWBCgQnPbGVQ_J6yImJ3IUBTcETjWHmVta-YUIvQ=w1174-h880-no

People can over-comlicate this job. The hardest bits are 1) Making it the correct length and 2) Remembering to thread all the bits onto the cable and in the correct order. I generally attach one nipple, assemble the cable slightly over-long then attach it to the bike. That lets me offer it up at the opposite end and cut it to the correct length.

Soldering the nipple is a case of threading it on. Untwisting and splaying the cable strands at the very end and sliding the nipple back up against the splayed out bit. You then melt the solder, dip the end of the cable in flux then dip it in the molten solder for a few seconds. If it's all gone well. the solder will flow up into the middle of the nipple and you just need to tidy it up a little with some emery cloth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yae5G62bd3ecJcXAm4yRV3wCXCoo4M6O1GwDd48lljNzqFJWe6TlRKSG1Ke1Xs_O79fL6MlKgenOB7QLS49m-dRLA9QSwTqq00h6iPymOICpRjDHAcgKvhgjH8PQKjkLj9SRbrIutA=w1174-h880-no

This is much neater.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zSGCiNNdCO3pBA9a21l2H0RJZ-FaG1OkEydKR_ekNa4ndi4KtKJKgNforkwYv0nxc33QtFsSY-ltMHdUTmJTIPkxGY8GC_VHvghqOP17V7lilLbl7WG_0AdkPoSOAD23Q4Jc4Tin3g=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W4zLiTWT5_hStQXHyn_0sUxC014X3dXedTNaFWm5BWaE8NZuvttZAIOh_3gWIrBsvgQZNVqn3qq8jyOWQGjNf2AOYcRkWY0bJsUuy52iBmsVd0wyh8pwotk0UQUrZzz01p0P4JWtMQ=w1174-h880-no

Also time to fit gaskets and bolt down the rocker covers. I hadn't before so i could see the valves cycling for setting the ignition timing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KoWk00MybabB06-k0jWJp1AinqaCWBXEPF3UBuSqHsI1-k8W_-5itDwUIlaWBct-YJoI1HhPzBKXbFBNoqcB66XyoP03Bd-RfckwI1TULT0cpM-pL7ClwYZpBECVhDjO29quwotW_A=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UjLPtHlVXBTiCCr1hxfARcg1G39n9sI7QGSEnv3iVaJTDw_1IJ0sXAn5lQCoHtGjrU6ajqnMGUOvxk4GO8DY0UlMBTq2MyIk05PLjx271PvBC-fnDfStD87PBwWMII7AwafXtY7ZFw=w1174-h880-no

Shit's getting real! Fuel line on. I'm using red line fuel hose for racing go-karts. I't gerat stuff. Doesn't go hard and is transparent. Even used the proper mikalor clips.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N3akm9mO1HdyBa7tvjSdjPw4Ck4pnrnu7kp_BM13hfZ7r2fUl0BKgS5InFqoG__Ur8rjUlLce_UnHk5JR52YJIuEPr660bxVpsmPW1XVO8GE6LjAQgE5yY3sgr-UWI18qGBnT9WVhA=w1174-h880-no

Ok, I'm procrastinating now. Fitted the brake hose and clutch cable.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zwJVntH5-rERYBFIM-LZuxi6AU5ZFe1o1CDIaXFc57HQ7SleqelHkOX8BChJcolWhFOwNA6OFYg9bJ1S2bRRpVRY22fyhqWyV-cJmMUBQL9uMxzLi0AN8dfdcn7ubQCarQqQNB_SFw=w1174-h880-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3YZPt4eC0hkI25F7OyAwQcCL92_GcFO0aTw505gdsYDRHqjwAywstmlRE6kkeDPT74yryzh7hGyZfjJIlKzT066Ixg--8dvKP7DUKCtnA_eoyFBLsCDb5gt6fs7j3u1eU7aSaVqdMA=w1174-h880-no

Rubber buffer for the tank. The stuff spilled on the frame is aerospace 303 spray which will help stop the rubber perishing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vfQONJczxyl-9ahxGz1Aq-92tRqW3YyV00MPC2CrOxD8LhiJCDY8z6why6v2CtKe2Jc2QEPIqxGzy60ZDiCECs1qJRffQUBUR40V_daROUPlRleY419bCedLcboBwqPfwV5C-n4MkQ=w1174-h880-no

Exhaust system. I think this is wrong. It's certainly been messed about with and I think the ends have been hacksawed off. I may need to get a new header. It's tricky because the engine is 7mm taller than it was so the clamps won't line up properly anyway. I'm going to ask on the enfield forum how others have done this but for the meantime, I whacked it into the head with a rubber mallet (this is how you properly fit the exhaust header, it's a taper fit. It just usually has clamps further down to support it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bcu9ScgF88JXYHxNd1oFYQZYwMiwWBv4v4bS2Gey8Wmy7KibUKZS3xKBA-DTBfxFqxq7L9FOLUz1FvG8jd_xXPwBo00qnIJIPIuxqSIgt5XUVk5-ZqtJwL2dA8kBW9maFGJSOnn5bg=w1174-h880-no

I have a memory of a rolled edge on my 350. I suspect this has been hacked off short.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vQ0G-LO0SBPOOM1kE8bp9QMiH-5aRGtmeX5rTGrMhlzATroyaqHw1AqGb8FjW4WeKkmTXJzi2Wf8yqFihh-VyvVsxfMgAaw3TOEYmC8n3Q891T1aKuysQKs80inFtbPh72ovlzNY8A=w1174-h880-no

Ok. There's no more procrastinating. There is only one more thing to do today after throwing the tank from my 350 on...

https://youtu.be/telKxA-1PZw


So yeah. I'll call that a win. My very first attempt (not shown) didn't work because I caught the decompressor cable under the tank which opened the valve. Pretty quickly evident something was wrong because the compression on this engine is stupidly high, no way it''ll go over centre without the decompressor valve. So that kick was the absolute genuine first kick with everything in a position where starting is in theory possible... And it fired twice.

I'll admit to a degree of stress doing that. There's thousands of pounds gone into that engine and it's perfectly capable of trashing itself in seconds if I've done it wrong. That running all sounded fine to me though. It stopped because (inevitably) the exhaust blew off.

These engines take a bit of experimentation to find how they like to be started at the best of times but I now know it's a runner and should start and run without too much faffing. I don't think I'll try starting it again until it's in more of a position to be ridden.

Off to research exhaust headers now.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:58 - 04 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So. I've been lifting the bike on and off a couple of axle stands under the swingarm to work on it. It's getting progressively heavier and heavier as I assemble it.

Couple of days ago the inevitable happened and I lost control of the weight and over it went. Happily, I managed to get my hand between the bike and the floor, preventing any damage to the bike but bursting (yes, bursting, as in split inside the glove without damaging the glove) my finger open. So I had to stick that together and the swelling has just about gone down now.

So, the job I did immediately after that was to fit a stand as a matter of urgency. The sidestand attaches to the big hex bar that also locates the engine plates in the frame lugs and carries the footpegs. The spacers had all been lost so I had to make new ones from aluminium tube.

I forgot to take photos of this (still busy swearing about my finger) but I'll get a couple next time I'm down there with the camera.

Having fitted the footpeg, it came to my attention that the kickstart was wrong, right in the way and you can't put your foot on the peg for it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FOlNLgenVEVJDpW8UEH23u9be2bfUprHrcpVqOt2cNH35xHqwoIxnXpcx1miCKRJH-jW84uqGG8O_wxJ7hOchTSQ43f5rYBhau10JTRi6xHbYN-HSjnWjGYQiaDnRIvc3G2O5rNzCw=w459-h344-no

I have a couple of kickstarts lying about. The one I'd fitted came with the close ratio gearbox. He must also have had rearsets fitted. Here's the two kickstarts, the bottom one is the one I originally fitted.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Po4Ha4WFebSwAaaTE61TksR036ZLtam9CnhsYCRKdPQtmnN8OWAlF4hr5ljdgv9qA_aZ2WTxl0wbpPDL39r71A0N8m-lONVmsQHIWnEIS2itFYfLORq2YRd_fuJnIh9bcc-lOYlUlA=w657-h876-no

Better.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eGxc1wM_BUQqKRGYC-HDTVSeFrxS-0NIrhK5JIO6QHFjJwZvjVcZh45OhSVkkFgoY23LptqY6rziNKCHDIlXygueguE2PETeQAoYp9C1WbqNvt3rKEopGoVzhWReMcAY7auhyMYRbA=w1168-h876-no

Further inspection of the exhaust header suggests it wasn't actually messed with but that the mounting bracket would need a fair degree of "fine adjusting" (note tool, fine adjusting on floor near bike).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9jjjlBs7x02xV_Z9CnJylzrPMZEyWxaeJchRj7u0O1o2K-w0MtfCbcsbNjEAdw6u-172IAnbtywkYD_CchkAjDp-iciWYyGXw2unfRPd3_TNHg-4aBqQ4VVev6ST_Jke6e3FbnT8JQ=w1168-h876-no

WIth the pegs and exhast fitted, it looks a whole lot more like a motorcycle to me. I'll need to find some silver heatproof paint for the exhaust bracket. All that "persuasion" has damaged the chrome on it. I might also see if I can flow some solder over the weld, an old engineer told me they used to do that as a matter of routine if they welded an exhaust while it was still hot from the weld to stop it rotting.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tJu5aV6a4GtbYtM_Ohx-DYFRw3kfqOwT1PXnrixga5VPciPOoeb56bVLzNquI8S1wIJ7QYOClzd8rTwe1ATkfrVsoRFz4d_AyvWTOcwYxiYi243kfiTH2x8Sh4E6ijPAoaz3hWeq2g=w1168-h876-no

I'm going to have a go at the wiring loom tomorrow.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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