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Anyone with a 3d printer able to help with an STL file

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t121anf
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Anyone with a 3d printer able to help with an STL file Reply with quote

I have some Philips Hue switches which I like to use those converters on, however the designer cant make them fast enough

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454110

We have a "FabLab" at work with 3d printers that are compatible with STL files so asked them and they say

Quote:
There are quite a few errors with that file and would it would not print correctly. It looks like it is made up from several components: could you download these individually and send them over. I will be able to run an auto repair on the pieces but not on the print as a whole (it would join everything together).


The file I sent was
Dimmer_Light_Switch_Cover_V5_na51hog_11.5mm.stl

File 7 on this list
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454110/#files
(I downloaded the pack)

Would someone with a 3d printer be able to confirm my FabLabs comments and/or check any of the other files?

I need to cover a single light switch, which is about 10mm deep. (I specifically choose the deepest to send as I didn't know the depth)

If I can do this without a 3d printer via software, I'm happy to be pointed in the right direction (software for a mac preferred but I have access to Windows also)

Thanks
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

They work fine in Cura and Simplify3D

I can probably print one off tomorrow to see if it prints well, but the slicing seems to be fine.
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you offer any insight into the problem our FabLab may have had?
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really no, it's all as it should be. Everything seems bonded together just fine.
Maybe the slicer they are using isn't that great at working with STL's generated from what ever 3D modelling software the designer used.
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slicer?
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 24 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

t121anf wrote:
Slicer?

A slicer is a program that converts a 3D design into GCode that a 3D printer can use.

It's basically a bunch of co-ordinate and mechanical codes where to place the print head and how much plastic to push out.

The STL file wouldn't have this information, besides, it's printer/job specific.

For example, I might want to print it with hotter plastic, with faster speed and low definition, or I might want to print it in high definition, with slightly less hot plastic and really slow speed.

This is determined by the slicer software.
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benvanwell
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As already commented, the file seems fine to me (in Cura). Are you certain you sent them the same single file, or perhaps you sent (or they loaded) the package and got confused?

Another issue they may be facing is the overhang(s) - there are no supports etc. built in to the model so depending on the printer and slicer software these would need to be added to ensure a high quality print.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I just tried to print it, and the fablab guys are right, there is an issue, where the top 25% of the print isnt bonded to the lower part.
It seems to skip a layer, which is unnoticeable in the slicing as it is really tiny.

I think you can just use a merge objects in a 3d program to fix this though.
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supZ
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a cubepro and its normally pretty good at fixing minor issues on load but it did moan about that file.

I could perhaps try printing it when I get home and see how well it does.

I can see the layer separation in the stl file but can't in my cubepro build so wondering if it's managed to fix it.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just opened it up in Solidworks (3D CAD package) and there are several holes and faces missing, unfortunately there isn't a great deal i can do with an STL file in Solidworks

Unless you can find an actual 3D model somewhere online (like Grabcad) then i can easily convert it to an STL
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supZ
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
Unless you can find an actual 3D model somewhere online (like Grabcad) then i can easily convert it to an STL


It's actually quite a simple model to design from scratch in fusion or something.

But then, who has the time for that Smile
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

supZ wrote:
rpsmith79 wrote:
Unless you can find an actual 3D model somewhere online (like Grabcad) then i can easily convert it to an STL


It's actually quite a simple model to design from scratch in fusion or something.

But then, who has the time for that Smile


Challenge accepted, anyone able to see if that works

EDIT: dammit, won't let me upload it
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

See if this works, shared from my Google Drive

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AKCzshoL0ZbMmHycRbuTelLd9YyEPhOB
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supZ
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol damn that was fast!

my cubepro slicer has no problems with that, although i did rotate to sit flat on the bed.

should print fine with auto supports.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

supZ wrote:
lol damn that was fast!

my cubepro slicer has no problems with that, although i did rotate to sit flat on the bed.

should print fine with auto supports.


Like you say, it was fairly simple, it's just a bugger pulling dimensions off an STL in Solidworks, had to guess the rads, and not really knowing what it is or does, i'm not sure what the critical dimensions were, but it should be close enough

And luckily my boss didn't see me modelling it up Very Happy
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 25 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rpsmith...what wall thickness did you use? Still looks odd in my S3D slicer. I've got solidworks 2017 but not installed it yet....donated a free seat of a network licence for home use Smile

EDIT Also have phillips hue and that might be a handy switch!!
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 07:57 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
Rpsmith...what wall thickness did you use? Still looks odd in my S3D slicer. I've got solidworks 2017 but not installed it yet....donated a free seat of a network licence for home use Smile

EDIT Also have phillips hue and that might be a handy switch!!


Wall Thickness??? I just modelled it like for like, think the overall thickness was 3mm for the sides, and 4mm for the top/front face

If you mean the 3D printed wall thickness, this should be determined my your 3D printer, not ny the CAD model

I can send you over the Solidworks file if you like

EDIT: Here is the STEP file for the dimmer plate i modelled, it should open in almost any CAD package

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-KfRiocv14YgyC8qfSRhWYfiTLdF_sxs
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79, I'm going to send that file across to our FabLab to try.

Which file was it based on? Reason for asking is that most have a normal rectangle hole for the lightswitch (what I want) some have a larger square hole for a dimmer switch (dial?)

Thanks
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

t121anf wrote:
rpsmith79, I'm going to send that file across to our FabLab to try.

Which file was it based on? Reason for asking is that most have a normal rectangle hole for the lightswitch (what I want) some have a larger square hole for a dimmer switch (dial?)

Thanks


I literally copied that 7th file on the list, but if you need me to tweak any dimensions it is easy enough

I have attached an image of how it should look

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=100775
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it'll be fine, FabLab have confirmed it will print fine.

It should be in the printer now or at some point over the weekend, either way they said it will be ready on Monday.

See if it's worth 2 then.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

t121anf wrote:
I think it'll be fine, FabLab have confirmed it will print fine.

It should be in the printer now or at some point over the weekend, either way they said it will be ready on Monday.

See if it's worth 2 then.


Let us know how you get on, as like i said, if you need any dimensions altering for any reason just let me know
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t121anf
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you
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