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Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion
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cresad |
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cresad Nova Slayer
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Posted: 22:26 - 15 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Hi
The best way to sort it properly would be to get hold of some small 3.9mm bullet connectors , similar to these - https://goo.gl/TUiDDs
tin the end of the wires then crimp the connectors onto the appropiate wires using the covers or heatshrink to keep water out. I've just fitted an LED headlight to my Suzuki attaching the unit to the original plug wiring using the above method.
Adam |
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ThatDippyTwat |
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ThatDippyTwat World Chat Champion
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c_dug |
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c_dug Super Spammer
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MCN |
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MCN Super Spammer
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Kawasaki Jimbo |
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Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
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Kawasaki Jimbo |
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Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion
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temeluchus |
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temeluchus World Chat Champion
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ADSrox0r |
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ADSrox0r World Chat Champion
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MCN |
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MCN Super Spammer
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Posted: 10:21 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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MarJay |
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MarJay But it's British!
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cb1rocket |
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cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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Freddyfruitba... |
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Freddyfruitba... World Chat Champion
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :
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Posted: 13:21 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Kawasaki Jimbo wrote: | chris-red wrote: | You don't need a soldering station, |
I think you do. A soldering station will maintain a set temperature whereas a simple iron won't.
Chris-red wrote: | Also if you are doing it outside you will need something powerful. I can't remember if my iron was a 40 or 60w but it struggled outside in the cold doing the same job. Even at max it struggled getting the wire hot. |
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You don't need one, I have a soldering station, I also have 2 cheaper irons, one with temperature control one without.
I have soldered components to a PCB with the non temperature controlled one. Bike wiring is easy, you just need something hot. I could solder bike wiring with a screwdriver and a blow torch I reckon.
A soldering station makes component work much easier. I'd chose a normal iron to work on a bike because you do not have to worry about where the base station is.
TL;DR you don't need one, I have done it without, were I doing it again I wouldn't use my station. ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
Last edited by chris-red on 13:25 - 16 Feb 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 13:55 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Solder is ok for totally stationary (so say a loop going from one point in a fuse box to another) or totally flexible (re-joining a wire in a loom that's been cut) wiring.
It shouldn't be used for something that is semi-stationary (ie, one end is stationary and the wire attaches to it. Like a bulb holder, chassis earth etc.).
The reason being, when you solder a cable, unless you are VERY prescice, the solder tracks along the cable a bit. Where the solder is is hard, the cable immediately below it is soft, softer than the rest because the heat has annealed the copper. This causes a stress point to form immediately below the solder.
If the cable starts to bend/flex, the copper flexes then work hardens directly below the tinned portion and eventually breaks inside the insulation.
ANY wiring on a motorcycle should also have stress relief incorporating and sealing closed the insulation. So that can be adhesive filled heat shrink or a crimp with a double crimp, one of which grips the cable, the other grips the insulation. If you don't seal the insulation, water will track along the insulation and corrode the cable.
In fairness, while I find the non-insulated crimps with simicone sleves more aesthetically pleasing, the plastic pre-insulated ones get a better hold. Both need to be correctly crimped using an appropriate crimping die. Both need a crimp on the cable and a carimp on the insulation. The pre-insulated plastic ones do come as a butt crimp. This requires a total of 4 crimps.
You als get butt crimps with solder and heat shrink incorporated in them, you stick the wires in the ends and heat the whole thing. I thought these looked rather neat but have never used them.
EDIT: You can easily flow solder into a non-insulated crimp after crimping it if you want. This would be much better than trying to crimp the pre-tinned end of a cable. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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MCN |
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MCN Super Spammer
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Posted: 14:13 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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If you want to get into 'reliabilty' options then you open up a completely different Can of Worims.
Even with 'connectors' there are good and bad.
For the most part you must decide what you need the connection to do and what your budget and patience can stand.
The most commonly used vehicular connector is the Duetsch make/type.
These are weather-proof, and structurally able to deal with normal, and in some cases severe, mechanical loading. Very compact size. Very reliable connection and very simple to assemble after some instruction.
They do need specific tools to assemble (and disassemble) either extortionately expensive branded or cheaper not-nearly-as-good imperfect clones that are not too bad.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors/intersection/deutsch-dt-series-connectors.html?tab=pgp-story&variant=b
You can also use less robust/reliable spade or bullet crimp connectors.
But we were asking about soldering the connections. ____________________ Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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bamt |
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bamt World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 16:23 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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We may have been asking about soldering but the correct answer may well be "Don't solder, crimp them instead.". Which naturally leads to a discussion about what sort of crimp.
In the same way as a thread about which brand of adjustable spanner is best for doing up my cam cap bolts should lead to a discussion about sockets and torque wrenches. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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grr666 |
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grr666 Super Spammer
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Posted: 17:57 - 16 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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I use these. And they are reusable. I've had my Parrot kit in and out of about 6 different vehicles. I leave one of these
on the end of each of the main power wires. Pricey but worth it. Robust, easy to use. I got a mixed box in Maplins a long
time ago, I'm deeply aggrieved if I have to leave one in a vehicle, they are easily as strong as an unbroken wire so movement
isn't an issue, Where I've needed a more watertight connection then a bit a dot of clear silicone in the ends first then heatshrink
over the top has done the job, most recently fitting the Stebel Nautilus to the Sprinter, just behind the grille, so watertight was
important. Also completely idiot proof requiring no more skill than it takes to unscrew a lid and put it back on again which
I find very handy.
https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html
Heres some on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POSI-LOCK-PL1416-Connectors/222691295736?hash=item33d96f81f8:m:m4W1_hpARvy-06o-XD6rwiQ ____________________ Currently enjoying products from Ford, Mazda and Yamaha
Ste wrote: Avatars are fine, it's signatures that need turning off. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 70 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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