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Preferred method for soldering clusterfucked wiring?

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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 16 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
ThatDippyTwat wrote:

Twist wire neatly.
Don't twist them, you get a better join if you just overlap them. Twisting them means the solder will not get into the middle.


If you want bomb-proof, do a linemans splice. If the cable moves a lot (it's on the bars, etc) then I use it. Overkill for anything else really.

Pre-tin, 90 degree bend with equal tension, 3-4 wraps on each end, solder the whole shebang.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 16 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any photos on the bomb proof soldering?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 17 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
Any photos on the bomb proof soldering?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZoTzYhLHkw

It's inaccurate as he calls Solder Sawder. (Twaaaats)
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 17 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a decent enough example. It's the proper way to do it. Some people/tutorials miss the initial hook out, which is important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 17 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
This is a decent enough example. It's the proper way to do it. Some people/tutorials miss the initial hook out, which is important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo


Melty insulation though.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 17 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
This is a decent enough example. It's the proper way to do it. Some people/tutorials miss the initial hook out, which is important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo


Melty insulation though.


I'd personally heat-shrink it afterwards, fuck NASA standards.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 06:17 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
This is a decent enough example. It's the proper way to do it. Some people/tutorials miss the initial hook out, which is important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo


She reminds me of an Asian Nicholas Sturgeon with her Alex Salmond-esque puncturing with her head.

https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2017/may/14/sturgeon-independent-scotland-may-need-phased-return-to-eu

And what an ugly fukin' joint too.
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try solder sleeves. Easy to use, results in a strain-relief'd waterproof soldered connection. I think the RayChem ones are the originals, and they were avionic spec so no problems with vibration etc.

This video shows how easy it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24FjjIVpk9U
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Speedy23
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Joined: 04 Dec 2017
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Posilock connectors Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
I use these. And they are reusable. I've had my Parrot kit in and out of about 6 different vehicles. I leave one of these
on the end of each of the main power wires. Pricey but worth it. Robust, easy to use. I got a mixed box in Maplins a long
time ago, I'm deeply aggrieved if I have to leave one in a vehicle, they are easily as strong as an unbroken wire so movement
isn't an issue, Where I've needed a more watertight connection then a bit a dot of clear silicone in the ends first then heatshrink
over the top has done the job, most recently fitting the Stebel Nautilus to the Sprinter, just behind the grille, so watertight was
important. Also completely idiot proof requiring no more skill than it takes to unscrew a lid and put it back on again which
I find very handy.

https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html


Heres some on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POSI-LOCK-PL1416-Connectors/222691295736?hash=item33d96f81f8:m:m4W1_hpARvy-06o-XD6rwiQ


How many do you get in the packet?
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