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| Chris45 |
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Chris45
Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 23 Oct 2016
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 Posted: 17:58 - 18 Feb 2018  Post subject: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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Sunday 16.55 Hrs
Not quite the usual bike question - sorry chaps, but the wife's car is leaking anti freeze at the hose - dribbling out and along the drive (Suzuki Ignis 1.3GL). I'll get a jub clip tomorrow for it. In the meantime I need to top up the anti freeze. The car has the green stuff and all I have is my Halfords blue stuff for the bike. Any ideas if it's okay to mix? We live out in the sticks so not easy to just nip off to Tesco, she's worried and I need ideas - apart from divorce that is 
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| Confusion |
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Confusion
Scooby Slapper
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| Posted: 18:40 - 18 Feb 2018 Post subject: Re: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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| Chris45 wrote: | Sunday 16.55 ...the wife's car is leaking anti freeze at the hose...
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You need to fix that. The rate of leakage will probably
increase when the engine gets up to running temperature
and the cooling system is under pressure.
| Quote: | dribbling out and along the drive |
That stuff is very toxic for animals. Wash it away before
you poison the cat.
| Quote: | (Suzuki Ignis 1.3GL). I'll get a jub clip tomorrow for it. In the meantime I need to top up the anti freeze. The car has the green stuff and all I have is my Halfords blue stuff for the bike. Any ideas if it's okay to mix? |
It probably won't do any harm. As a short term fix, you
can just top it up with water. Fix the leak ASAP and then
fill the system with new coolant.
| Quote: | We live out in the sticks so not easy to just nip off to Tesco, she's worried and I need ideas - apart from divorce that is |
Prestone sell a universal coolant that is compatible with
all other types and colours of coolant. You should find it
in local filling stations, motor factors, Tesco or DIY stores.
I use it in my Kawasaki.
Any coolant you put in will probably be lost tomorrow when you fix
the leaking hose. You may as well use clean water. Distilled
is best. Tap water should be ok unless you live in a hard water
area. A condenser clothes drier is a good source of 'distilled'
water. Your missus might even have a bottle of distilled water
for the steam iron....
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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Posted: 19:43 - 18 Feb 2018  Post subject: |
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Yes. Any old general purpose antifreeze will be fine. Blue, green, pink, whatever, don't believe the hyope. It's ethylene glycol with a corrosion inhibitor and dye. Even the really expensive stuff.
Apparently not the case any more. See below
Don't top up with water unless you are 100% happy it won't drop below 0 degrees tonight otherwise it might, you know, freeze.
In freezing conditions, it's better parked up empty than full of plain water. Top it up with plain water in the morning before you leave.
As mentioned above. Antifreeze tastes sweet and causes kidney failure if you drink it so chuck a bucket of water over the spillage in case any animals drink it.
EDIT: To see if your tap water is ok to use, have a look in the kettle. If the element is all crusty and minging, don't use your tap water unless you want the inside of your engine to look the same.
The ice that forms on the inside of your deep freeze is also distilled water.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
Last edited by stinkwheel on 10:18 - 19 Feb 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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| Chris45 |
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Chris45
Nitrous Nuisance
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| Polarbear |
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Polarbear
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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 00:27 - 19 Feb 2018 Post subject: Re: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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| Confusion wrote: | | Chris45 wrote: | Sunday 16.55 ...the wife's car is leaking anti freeze at the hose...
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You need to fix that. The rate of leakage will probably
increase when the engine gets up to running temperature
and the cooling system is under pressure. |
Maybe in a BMW, otherwise it is questionable. Why is BMW special? Not sure about the latest models, but everything around E39 had very high pressure cooling system. The pressure was so high that if you used a non OEM or poor quality radiator, it would actually inflate it and the visco fan would hit it.
I'm not saying you are wrong, but that just it's odd. My car has a slight coolant leak from the main radiator. The leak only occurs when the car is stationary for a long period of time, let's say 2 weeks, and only in winter. It doesn't loose any coolant if used daily, or in summer.
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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ThatDippyTwat
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| MCN |
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MCN
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Posted: 10:07 - 19 Feb 2018  Post subject: |
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Tap water is normally fine for filling a radiator. Clean river water is fine too.
Tap is not so good as an electrolyte though and de-ionised or distilled is recommended.
ANd modern anti-freeze is not just anti-freeze. Some are extended life or life-time which will not mix well with the cheaper stuff.
The coolant 'should' be replaced every two years to maintain protection. Mainly the inhibitor effectiveness.
The system should be flushed out then too. (From a hose from a tap.)
Collect all your old coolant and take to the recycle place where they have tanks to dump it in.
Antifreeze should be added at 50% mix. Better quality Neat antifreeze has 4% inhibitor added at the factory so when you dilute with water to 50:50 it provides the recommended 2% max inhibitor. Too much inhibitor is bad.
Not all antifreeze contains inhibitor. If it does it will state on the bottle how much.
P.S. I have adds at the bottom of the page for antifreeze testers.
There is a refraction type tester there by 'Draper' (Just their badge on it) for £68.
I got the exact same one (minus the Draper badge) from Ali-Express for about £12 last year. Very nice tool.
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/ATC-Glycol-Refractometer-Car-Antifreeze-Battery-Acid-Engine-Coolant-Tester-Tool-RHA-503ATC-New-Arrival/32691969872.html
We have them in stock at work but we paid over US$130 for them. I checked how much we paid.  (And we never have any money to buy tools.  )
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stinkwheel
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RhynoCZ
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MCN
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| Posted: 15:06 - 19 Feb 2018 Post subject: Re: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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| RhynoCZ wrote: |
Maybe in a BMW, otherwise it is questionable. Why is BMW special? Not sure about the latest models, but everything around E39 had very high pressure cooling system. The pressure was so high that if you used a non OEM or poor quality radiator, it would actually inflate it and the visco fan would hit it.
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Really, What sort of very high pressure do they use?
My E38 has the M62TUB44 engine which was also used in the E39. I know these cars very well and have never heard any of this.
If the cooling system is over pressuring, you've either got air in it or a head leak somewhere. They are not designed to run "very high pressure" cooling systems, that's nonsense. The only benefit of allowing a coolant system to pressurise (all do when hot), is to raise the boiling point, so why would the boiling point need to be far higher in a BMW only?
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 15:54 - 19 Feb 2018 Post subject: Re: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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| mpd72 wrote: | | RhynoCZ wrote: |
Maybe in a BMW, otherwise it is questionable. Why is BMW special? Not sure about the latest models, but everything around E39 had very high pressure cooling system. The pressure was so high that if you used a non OEM or poor quality radiator, it would actually inflate it and the visco fan would hit it.
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Really, What sort of very high pressure do they use?
My E38 has the M62TUB44 engine which was also used in the E39. I know these cars very well and have never heard any of this.
If the cooling system is over pressuring, you've either got air in it or a head leak somewhere. They are not designed to run "very high pressure" cooling systems, that's nonsense. The only benefit of allowing a coolant system to pressurise (all do when hot), is to raise the boiling point, so why would the boiling point need to be far higher in a BMW only? |
I wouldn't say it, unless I saw literary inflated cooling radiator in a E39. The radiator was a cheap aftermarket part. It got inflated so much the viscous fan hit it. The engine was in a pefect working order.
Also, these engines run 2.0 BAR release pressure caps, why is that?
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MCN
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stinkwheel
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| Posted: 17:14 - 19 Feb 2018 Post subject: Re: Suzuki anti freeze... |
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| RhynoCZ wrote: | | mpd72 wrote: |
Really, What sort of very high pressure do they use?
My E38 has the M62TUB44 engine which was also used in the E39. I know these cars very well and have never heard any of this.
If the cooling system is over pressuring, you've either got air in it or a head leak somewhere. They are not designed to run "very high pressure" cooling systems, that's nonsense. The only benefit of allowing a coolant system to pressurise (all do when hot), is to raise the boiling point, so why would the boiling point need to be far higher in a BMW only? |
I wouldn't say it, unless I saw literary inflated cooling radiator in a E39. The radiator was a cheap aftermarket part. It got inflated so much the viscous fan hit it. The engine was in a pefect working order.
Also, these engines run 2.0 BAR release pressure caps, why is that? |
Really? So a metal core radiator inflated did it? Cobblers, they'd break the plastic housing long before that. It's a common fault by the top hose.
The 2.0 caps do not mean the cooling system runs at 28psi under normal conditions, it just raises the pressure at which it vents once parked up. These caps were introduced after problems with E34's (I had 2), where they would constantly report low coolant level. Google E34 "Check Coolant Level".
The E39's were not too dissimilar and many shared the same engines and cooling systems. The problem with these, especially the V8's is that people don't bleed them properly. It helps to jack up the offside front wheel to make the rad cap the highest point of the cooling system, most don't bother and leave too much air in.
| Quote: | The reason for the 2.0 bar cap is to prevent the coolant loss after the engine is stopped, not to stop it boiling when the engine is running. Under most running conditions the operating pressure in the cooling system is at or slightly above atmospheric pressure of 1 bar. The cap pressure is the pressure above atmospheric pressure.
When the engine is stopped there is no longer any air or coolant flow through the radiator. There is still residual heat in the engine which is no longer being dissipated through the radiator, apart from a small amount of radiated heat from the block etc. The remaining residual heat just heats up the coolant and depending on the amount of coolant the coolant temperature can rise significantly. As the coolant temp increases it expands and the cooling system pressure increases until the cap releases the pressure with a consequent loss of coolant. The higher pressure cap is to prevent this happening. Think of it as the reverse of the engine warm up period.
In the past engines didn't run as hot and had large radiators and radiator caps had lower pressures, 7lb, 14lb etc so the loss of coolant problem was not as severe. As well people knew they had to check oil, water etc on a daily basis. Now its set and forget with many owners not even knowing how to open the bonnet let alone how to check oil and water. Hence the inclusion of warnings for almost everything. Its probably only after a severe attack on the hip pocket nerve that some people find out its probably a good idea to check things regularly.
Edit; If you are going to run a lower pressure cap be prepared to have to check the coolant level on an almost daily basis and don't be surpised if you have to keep adding coolant and have white stains from dried coolant all over the expansion tank etc. |
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696474
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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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| Posted: 18:04 - 19 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Why on earth would I make this up? 
Not the same way my mate's was, but similar. His radiator interfered with the visco fan: https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/79269-radiator-what-to-look-for/
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