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WR125r NOT GOOD

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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: WR125r NOT GOOD Reply with quote

Hi all

We have a WR 125r and went to change the oil, on inspection the oil looks like milky coffee.
Would this be the head gasket or the water pump seals?
Any help, please
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. There's water got in there somehow. Both of your suggestions are possible.

If it's done a lot of short runs in cold weather, mayonaise formation can also be straight condensation.
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HappyDays
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the bikes have problems with the water pumps seal or more so the head gasket?
Also whats the best way to flush the engine?
Was thinking bit of oil and diesel mix
Cheers
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HappyDays
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add, bike runs with no smoke but the water level in the rad does drop a bit.
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HappyDays
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 18 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to do the water pump seal and then change oil to see if it goes milky again
Got some cheap 10/40 before I put better oil in.
Cheers
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't waste your time yet on water pump seals. Wait till summer, keep an eye on the water level.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to flush the engine, do it by doing a short interval oil and filter change. Get it nice and hot drain the oil while it's still reasonably hot (obviously take care not to burn yourself).

Use cheap engine oil of an appropriate viscosity. Don't put diesel in it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you get all the tools oot.

Make sure you have a problem.

If you fix something that wasn't broken and you still have the same problem what good will that do?

Change the oil.
Diesel will flush it out if it is really creamy thick but is not much better than fresh oil if the oil is still 'flowing' and not like butter yet.
You will still have to flush out any Diesel with fresh oil again anyway.
Replace the Filter (if fitted).
Park the beast in a place you will always have access to. (You will have to park the bike in the exact same position and at the same angle of dangle in a few days.)
With the engine off and cold.
Set the coolant level to the 'exact' correct level.
Run it for a few days and then let it cool down in the place you set the coolant level.
If you have lost coolant then you have an internal leak.
Not likely that water gets to the oil via the seal as most pumps have a tell-tale hole to vent coolant out of the engine.

Head gaskets are normally not a concern unless the engine has been roasted at some point in its life. Run without coolant or the coolant boiled off by over-loading or other cooling system problems choked radiator (Internally/Externally), knackered fan worn coolant pump vanes.
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HappyDays
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your advice with this.
Will see how it goes when I do the oil change.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 19 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I generally find head gaskets fail by allowing exhaust gas into the coolant rather than coolant into the oil. Not saying a coolant leak is impossible but of the pressures exerted on a head gasket, combustion gasses are by far the highest.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 22:34 - 20 Feb 2018    Post subject: Valve clearance wr125 Reply with quote

Hi all,
Going to do the timing as well, is the valve clearance below correct?


Intake 0.10 - 0.14 mm

Exhaust 0.20 - 0.24 mm

Lock nuts 7 nm

Case screws 10 nm

Cheers
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Chris45
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So we've gone from a milk apperance in the oil to valve clearances Rolling Eyes

Read the previous posts and save yourself a heck of a lot of time and bother. Flush the sump (I prefer parrafin) and refill with budget oil. Top up the rad and use the bike, checking the oil and water periodically. If water is getting into the sump, that's a major problem but until you've gone through some BASIC and SIMPLE checks you won't know.
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........
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The quantity of water required to turn the oil in the sump into "milky coffee" is not going to be due to condensation.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

garybee wrote:
The quantity of water required to turn the oil in the sump into "milky coffee" is not going to be due to condensation.


You think so?

At one point my Enfield Bullet was so choked with mayonnaise I had to strip off the timing cover and physically scrape it off with my fingers. It's air cooled.

Here's what lodged in the breather catch can:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/distributor/DSCN0705.png

My GPZ500s used to get proper white gunky mayo on the inside of the sight glass and oil filler cap during the winter if it was only doing short journeys.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:31 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: WHY ME... Reply with quote

Hi,

Well picked up the bike with no history but it does run with no smoke just a bit tappy. Looks like the Valves gaps may need doing.
The Oil in water subject, what would you do first if its the same after we change the oil.

1 - Pump seal kit or 2 - head gasket.
Just to note the Water expansion and rad are all clean no scum.
The sump had milky oil in it.

Cheers
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:36 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
garybee wrote:
The quantity of water required to turn the oil in the sump into "milky coffee" is not going to be due to condensation.


You think so?

At one point my Enfield Bullet was so choked with mayonnaise I had to strip off the timing cover and physically scrape it off with my fingers. It's air cooled.

Here's what lodged in the breather catch can:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/distributor/DSCN0705.png

My GPZ500s used to get proper white gunky mayo on the inside of the sight glass and oil filler cap during the winter if it was only doing short journeys.


Did not think you could get so much gunk in the oil like that.
Hope it's that.

Cheers
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:42 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
So we've gone from a milk apperance in the oil to valve clearances Rolling Eyes

Read the previous posts and save yourself a heck of a lot of time and bother. Flush the sump (I prefer parrafin) and refill with budget oil. Top up the rad and use the bike, checking the oil and water periodically. If water is getting into the sump, that's a major problem but until you've gone through some BASIC and SIMPLE checks you won't know.



Yes, the bike just need some love back in it's life so it not a major problem if the head gasket gone. (get to play with my tool box) Mr. Green

Cheers Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: WHY ME... Reply with quote

happyDays wrote:
Hi,

Well picked up the bike with no history but it does run with no smoke just a bit tappy. Looks like the Valves gaps may need doing.
The Oil in water subject, what would you do first if its the same after we change the oil.

1 - Pump seal kit or 2 - head gasket.
Just to note the Water expansion and rad are all clean no scum.
The sump had milky oil in it.

Cheers


I'd do whichever is cheapest. Head gasket is more complex, water pumps can be more of a PITA to do with corroded parts. In my experience, I can't think I'd preferr one over the other, they can take as long as each other.

I'd personally probably preferr doing a head gasket because it's a known quantity, I've had some proper swearing matches getting water pump mechanical seals apart.

I suppose the other thing is, if you did the head first, you ought to be able to see if the gasket was leaking when you look closely so you'll know if this actually was the problem as soon as you get it off.

EDIT: See what the exhaust studs look like. If they look corroded, start feeding them penetrating oil now.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: WHY ME... Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
happyDays wrote:
Hi,

Well picked up the bike with no history but it does run with no smoke just a bit tappy. Looks like the Valves gaps may need doing.
The Oil in water subject, what would you do first if its the same after we change the oil.

1 - Pump seal kit or 2 - head gasket.
Just to note the Water expansion and rad are all clean no scum.
The sump had milky oil in it.

Cheers


I'd do whichever is cheapest. Head gasket is more complex, water pumps can be more of a PITA to do with corroded parts. In my experience, I can't think I'd preferr one over the other, they can take as long as each other.

I'd personally probably preferr doing a head gasket because it's a known quantity, I've had some proper swearing matches getting water pump mechanical seals apart.

I suppose the other thing is, if you did the head first, you ought to be able to see if the gasket was leaking when you look closely so you'll know if this actually was the problem as soon as you get it off.

EDIT: See what the exhaust studs look like. If they look corroded, start feeding them penetrating oil now.



Yes, see what happens when I re-do it with oil and check the water level.
Also does this bike have a temp gauge?

Cheers
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 22:37 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: NOT GOOD Reply with quote

Well I've done the test and not good.
Filled the radiator then checked the oil and the water constantly drops and the sump oil level raised milky.
Only run it for 4/5 minutes at tick over.
Then we have 5 slow amber blink's followed by 5 fast amber blinks.
So now need to find how the water is getting in..
Any one know what the blink codes are?

Thanks
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 10:25 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: NOT GOOD Reply with quote

happyDays wrote:
Well I've done the test and not good.
Filled the radiator then checked the oil and the water constantly drops and the sump oil level raised milky.
Only run it for 4/5 minutes at tick over.
Then we have 5 slow amber blink's followed by 5 fast amber blinks.
So now need to find how the water is getting in..
Any one know what the blink codes are?

Thanks


I'd say for the level to be dropping that quickly, it's more likely to be the water pump, or even a cracked block. I can't imagine enough water could sneak past the head gasket to be noticeable in that timescale, especially since the oilways will be pressurised too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 11:10 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: NOT GOOD Reply with quote

Will give it a go with the new Pump kit first and yes that level seems to drop fast, also if it was a crack then the bike would not run smooth?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: NOT GOOD Reply with quote

happyDays wrote:
Will give it a go with the new Pump kit first and yes that level seems to drop fast, also if it was a crack then the bike would not run smooth?


Would depend on the size and location of the crack. I'm just stating worst case though. Tends not to happen unless someone has been leaving it parked up in winter with no anti-freeze.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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