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Clutch Slipping?

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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
So, start the bike up in the morning and try to set off when the clutch was really stiff to pull. let off the clutch and on to the power but the bike didnt move, needed to get up to around 8000rpm+ to actually start moving compared to the 3000rpm+/- normally. get it into second and as soon as i try to accelerate the revs just climb but nothing happens, as if i pulled the clutch. same for 3rd and 4th as well, the slightest bit of throttle and it just revs. the only thing i know of is that the rear-wheel bearing needs replacing asap but i have no idea if thats related. was supposed to be going to get it done Friday but thats off if i cant get there.

I do not have the money to replace the clutch but the bike should still be in warranty. Problem is, i move to Scotland in a week or two and will need it to commute to work.

If anybody has an idea of what this could be as its only around 8 months old and on about 3000kms. Any other help is appreciated

*sigh* its... a Lexmoto adrenaline. I'm starting to see that famed Chinese engineering come true.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ride to dealer tomorrow. They'll take a look surely... I mean, that is what warranty is for.


It is probably just a bit of adjustment needed.
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RhynoCZ
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Joined: 09 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
If it's in warranty, let the dealer do it.

Something I'd check is the clutch cable adjustment and that the clutch gets fully engaged when the lever is released (no tension in the cable). Plus you shouldn't be able to push the motorcycle with the engine off while in 1st gear.

https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-203/files/WR250R_0074-copy.jpg
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Paddy. wrote:
Ride to dealer tomorrow. They'll take a look surely... I mean, that is what warranty is for.


It is probably just a bit of adjustment needed.


the dealer is in wales or Coventry and i'm hull
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
RhynoCZ wrote:
If it's in warranty, let the dealer do it.

Something I'd check is the clutch cable adjustment and that the clutch gets fully engaged when the lever is released (no tension in the cable). Plus you shouldn't be able to push the motorcycle with the engine off while in 1st gear.

https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-203/files/WR250R_0074-copy.jpg


well it was fine, i have no idea why it just changed seemingly overnight. saying that, the acutal clutch lever/bracket needs replacing as its all bent from a drop
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rusty/dirty/dry cable? Thinking
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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Chris45
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 23 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Frayed cable? A single strand of wire can fray and stick inside the clutch cable, gives you exactly that problem. As mentioned, visually check the clutch arm is actually moving through its entire range when you pull the clutch in/release it.
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Chris45 wrote:
Frayed cable? A single strand of wire can fray and stick inside the clutch cable, gives you exactly that problem. As mentioned, visually check the clutch arm is actually moving through its entire range when you pull the clutch in/release it.


yeah, will do.
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bogeyman wrote:
What you described isn't clutch slippage my chocolate friend.

My old FZS clutch was fucked as well as the 2nd gear plus it needed a new head gasket.


Hmm, so the clutch is fucked? i cant think it being the head gasket as it revs just fine, its actually getting it moving thats an issue.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
adengtg wrote:

saying that, the acutal clutch lever/bracket needs replacing as its all bent from a drop


Relevant fact.

Is the cable moving smoothly and properly?

What else got damaged in this drop?
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bogeyman wrote:


Retard.


what?
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adengtg
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 21 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
adengtg wrote:

saying that, the acutal clutch lever/bracket needs replacing as its all bent from a drop


Relevant fact.

Is the cable moving smoothly and properly?

What else got damaged in this drop?


The drop was in December, the lever has been loose but works fine. i have a new lever and bracket for it if that would make a difference. i am mechanically inept so installing it by myself may be an issue but i can try.
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steve the grease
Crazy Courier



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sounds like the cable / release mechanism is jamming and stopping the clutch biting properly.
If you continue to ride it whilst the clutch is slipping like crazy you will definitely donald duck the clutch.
If you are mechanically inept as you say and want to avoid considerable expense , get it to a bike shop.
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rpsmith79
World Chat Champion



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
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PostPosted: 08:37 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
adengtg wrote:

The drop was in December, the lever has been loose but works fine. i have a new lever and bracket for it if that would make a difference. i am mechanically inept so installing it by myself may be an issue but i can try.


When has that ever stopped anyone trying

Try laying it on its side, chained to a lamp post, and empty the engine of oil.................. that should fix it
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
adengtg wrote:
the clutch was really stiff to pull

Three reasons for that:

1) The cable has got pinched somewhere. Grab the cable near the bars and down by the engine and bend / straighten / pull / push it. Movement at one end should be felt at the other, even if it's only an inch or so. If there's no movement making it through from one end to the other, take the tank off and check the cable run to see where it's stuck. If it's been damaged, bin it and replace for £10 or so, rather than having it snap on you later.

2) If the outer isn't pinched, the internal cable has frayed. Detach it at both ends and make sure that it can slide freely through the outer cable. If not, bin it and replace.

3) There's something jamming the lever at the bar end and stopping it releasing fully. This can happen, I got a piece of my muffs trapped under my lever this week. Or it may just have been distorted by the crash.

When you replace the lever, ideally detach the cable at the engine end, or at least screw the adjuster at the ending all the way towards the actuator arm. Then screw the adjuster bolt at the bars all the way in, then back it out so that the slot in it faces forwards. Either align the slot in the lock nut with the slot in the bolt, or undo the lock nut completely and slide it down the cable a bit. Undo and remove the lever bolt. The lever can then be pushed forwards and free, and the cable should slide out of the slot in the nut with it. Rotate the lever clockwise around the nipple until the slot in the lever lines up with the cable, and the nipple can be pushed out of the hole in the lever. watch a YouTube video.
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adengtg
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
steve the grease wrote:
Sounds like the cable / release mechanism is jamming and stopping the clutch biting properly.
If you continue to ride it whilst the clutch is slipping like crazy you will definitely donald duck the clutch.
If you are mechanically inept as you say and want to avoid considerable expense , get it to a bike shop.


i rode it for about 2 min today just to test it but thats it
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 22 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
adengtg wrote:
the clutch was really stiff to pull

Three reasons for that:

1) The cable has got pinched somewhere. Grab the cable near the bars and down by the engine and bend / straighten / pull / push it. Movement at one end should be felt at the other, even if it's only an inch or so. If there's no movement making it through from one end to the other, take the tank off and check the cable run to see where it's stuck. If it's been damaged, bin it and replace for £10 or so, rather than having it snap on you later.

2) If the outer isn't pinched, the internal cable has frayed. Detach it at both ends and make sure that it can slide freely through the outer cable. If not, bin it and replace.

3) There's something jamming the lever at the bar end and stopping it releasing fully. This can happen, I got a piece of my muffs trapped under my lever this week. Or it may just have been distorted by the crash.

When you replace the lever, ideally detach the cable at the engine end, or at least screw the adjuster at the ending all the way towards the actuator arm. Then screw the adjuster bolt at the bars all the way in, then back it out so that the slot in it faces forwards. Either align the slot in the lock nut with the slot in the bolt, or undo the lock nut completely and slide it down the cable a bit. Undo and remove the lever bolt. The lever can then be pushed forwards and free, and the cable should slide out of the slot in the nut with it. Rotate the lever clockwise around the nipple until the slot in the lever lines up with the cable, and the nipple can be pushed out of the hole in the lever. watch a YouTube video.


i took the lever off and put another on, it didnt seem to make a difference. i will drop it at the shop tomorrow if i can get it there
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adengtg
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Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 23 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
adengtg wrote:
the clutch was really stiff to pull



When you replace the lever, ideally detach the cable at the engine end, or at least screw the adjuster at the ending all the way towards the actuator arm. Then screw the adjuster bolt at the bars all the way in, then back it out so that the slot in it faces forwards. Either align the slot in the lock nut with the slot in the bolt, or undo the lock nut completely and slide it down the cable a bit. Undo and remove the lever bolt. The lever can then be pushed forwards and free, and the cable should slide out of the slot in the nut with it. Rotate the lever clockwise around the nipple until the slot in the lever lines up with the cable, and the nipple can be pushed out of the hole in the lever. watch a YouTube video.


did as you said and generally wiggled everything involved and then put on a new bracket and lever and it seemed to work. I havent had or at least noticed the "slipping" issue as i mentioned before so it should be gone.
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 23 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
adengtg wrote:


i took the lever off and put another on, it didnt seem to make a difference. i will drop it at the shop tomorrow if i can get it there


Take the lever back off and get hold of the cable end. If you can't push/pull it so there's appreciable sliding movement by just pinching it in your fingers then follow it to the other end, un-hook it, remove and clean the cable.
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adengtg
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 02 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 23 Feb 2018    Post subject: Re: Clutch Slipping? Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
adengtg wrote:


i took the lever off and put another on, it didnt seem to make a difference. i will drop it at the shop tomorrow if i can get it there


Take the lever back off and get hold of the cable end. If you can't push/pull it so there's appreciable sliding movement by just pinching it in your fingers then follow it to the other end, un-hook it, remove and clean the cable.


It seems to be alright now, i did that and it moves fine. Thanks for the help!
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