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I'd like to know what this part is and where to get it

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Courier265
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Based just on the photo it looks like some kind of bulb converter.

More information like what bike it's for I might have a better idea.
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Arcane3141
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Joined: 11 Mar 2018
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
The bike is a lexmoto zsa 2016. The plastic piece sits behind the bulb and locks it into place so it can't come free.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Buy a newcomplete light fitting.
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TheMadRatter
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jewlio Rides Again LLB wrote:
Buy a newcomplete light fitting.


Yup, could be from any number of bikes

Here ya go;

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_HLASM103
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Last edited by TheMadRatter on 23:26 - 11 Mar 2018; edited 2 times in total
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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jewlio Rides Again LLB wrote:
Buy a newcomplete light fitting.


Aye, get used to that: new parts for these bikes are cheaper than attempting repairs.

Trawl through CMPO or here. Failing that visit your local dealer.

Like most things, though, you'll probably just need to think up a bodge.

I wouldn't expect anyone on here to able to help you with the bike unless you can understand it yourself, in part, because half the modern lexmoto's are just re-branded bikes with their own method of adding gizmos on. Their not particularly mechanically new in any area but their not something that, for the large part, people would of had their hands on directly. Information will be helpful but not specific. I wouldn't hang on to it to long, either, given the possibility -- despite lexmoto's reputation -- for the model to be dropped and part support lessend.
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Arcane3141
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
So because that one tiny part broke I have to spend £40+ on the whole new thing? Sad
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TheMadRatter
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Arcane3141 wrote:
So because that one tiny part broke I have to spend £40+ on the whole new thing? Sad


Unless you find one being broken on ebay, or fix the part yourself, I'm afraid so.
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TheMadRatter
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
if it's any help;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015-Lexmoto-ZSA-125-TESTED-WORKING-NEW-SHAPE-HEADLAMP-HEADLIGHT/332554396435?hash=item4d6dc96313:g:5cgAAOSwEUdag~64
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Arcane3141
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Alright. Cheers for the help. I'll see what I can do
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 11 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
NJD wrote:
I wouldn't hang on to it to long, either, given the possibility -- despite lexmoto's reputation -- for the model to be dropped and part support lessend.


Best thing would be to partially dismantle it, then leave it in the street - dustmen will get rid of it for you
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M.C
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Out of curiosity, how much would it cost to get that part 3D printed?
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........
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PostPosted: 02:06 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
I 3d print parts like this to order. The problem you will have is designing the part. Although it isn't complex it usually takes a couple of attempts to get something that works unless you can take very accurate measurements and a few pictures.

Looks like a viable candidate for printing to me though. If there was likely to be lots required I'd make these for around £5 each. For just the one it would cost more as most of the work is in creating the CAD model.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 03:44 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
If I had all the broken pieces (or most)
I'd deffo have a go at welding it back together.
It's worked for me at times and it it all goes wrong, fuck it
you're no worse off
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M.C
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
garybee wrote:
For just the one it would cost more as most of the work is in creating the CAD model.

Is laser-scanning a viable option?
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owl
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
could it be Thinking
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Fin
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 12 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
Did anyone else think it was part of a twist grip assembly before reading the rest?

What did you do to the last one?
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........
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 05:19 - 13 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
M.C wrote:
garybee wrote:
For just the one it would cost more as most of the work is in creating the CAD model.

Is laser-scanning a viable option?


When you 3d print a part you almost always have to change the design slightly because of the way the print process works. As the item is built up in layers as opposed to being injection molded, if you design in large overhangs it will deform during printing. It's also important to beef up areas where you will will be applying force across the layers as parts are stronger in specific directions. For example, the vertical tabs on that bulb retainer would snap when you did it up. If you were printing that part you would increase their width to give them strength at the base.

Essentially even if you could scan the part you wouldn't want to as you need to account for the different properties of a printed component.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 14 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
if it was me i would try a few different things. First glue. Then more glue... if that doesnt work, build it in f360 and then 3d print the thing out :p

So does the bulb actually sit in this thing? is it the metal disc shaped lock like a H11 fitting?

If so does it get hot? And how hot? ABS has a glass transision temp of about 190... Anything bellow that and ABS would do fine. Above that your in teh zone where the part could melt or warp from the bulb heat. ABS is liquid at around 220-250
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TheMadRatter
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 14 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
NutsyUk wrote:
if it was me i would try a few different things. First glue. Then more glue... if that doesnt work, build it in f360 and then 3d print the thing out :p

So does the bulb actually sit in this thing? is it the metal disc shaped lock like a H11 fitting?

If so does it get hot? And how hot? ABS has a glass transision temp of about 190... Anything bellow that and ABS would do fine. Above that your in teh zone where the part could melt or warp from the bulb heat. ABS is liquid at around 220-250


Pretty sure this just 'screws' onto the back of the reflector (not screw, kinda, tabs under tabs) and could be replaced with a decent strength rubber band Razz Back of my Kymco light is held in with a paper clip and an elastic band.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 14 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote
if the part isnt touching anything super hot then it should do fine printed as abs or petg...

The photo looks like vacume formed nylon. Which has a slightly lower melting point than abs i think...
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Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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