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Sammydroid |
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Sammydroid Derestricted Danger
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Beehive Bedlam |
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Beehive Bedlam World Chat Champion
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Evil Hans |
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Evil Hans World Chat Champion
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Sammydroid |
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Sammydroid Derestricted Danger
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Sammydroid |
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Sammydroid Derestricted Danger
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Beehive Bedlam |
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Beehive Bedlam World Chat Champion
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Sammydroid Derestricted Danger
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 04:15 - 22 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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They are a bastard to replace... end of.
On a genuine honda wheel its hard enough to get them out without hacking through the metal of the hub.... on a cheese-for-metal chinky clone?... y-e-a-h.... best of luck with that!
Look; its a cheap bike. It's not built to the best grade to begin with, and intended for low-labour developing asian markets, where, they wouldn't sweat at spending a few days to delicately remove the bushes with sand and a greased stick (how they built the pyramids BTW!), because the prive of a new wheel is like a months wages.... here in the west, a whole new bike is barely two a months wages.. and most of that is tax! Yeas, I did get the sums right, do maths! But THAT is the catch; we have a sales driven ecconomy not a labor driven one; high labour costs to 'fix' anything actually drive sales of new product, it's not in the salesman's interest to support 'repairs'; hence whole assemblies are relatively 'cheap' but quickly add up to make brand new bikes more economically viable, and its not just 'cheap' chinks; the total the costs of component parts to make a motorcycle from a franchise dealer's parts list, it will be a LOT more expensive than a whole bike, even before you add than labour to put it together, and this is nothing new; salvage companies were 'breaking' brand new CBR's and TL's and stuff, they could buy without new-vehicle taxes as parts on the continent, breaking them, and shipping the bits to the UK and flogging them here at 'used' part prices, since the mid-90's. ISTR one breaker commenting that on something commonly crashed like a CBT they only had to flog the fairings, forks and wheels to pay for the whole bike, the rest was their 'profit-margin'... go figure.. THIS is what they call economics.
Not a lot of help to you B-U-T you may better understand the 'problem' which isn't just you have shot cush-drive rubbers....
Solutions?
1 - DIY... you DON'T actually save money.... you just don't pay the labour.. which you put in for 'free'. IF you costed your time to do the job, as a novice, to likely spemd a heck of a lot more time than a practiced pro, and still not do as good a job, you would find that even at NMW shelf stacking rates, paying the pro probably works out cheaper... so DO you have time/skill/patients and the tools to tackle the job? Because you are probably NOT 'really' saving money DIY... you just aren't counting cash you dont spend, and conveniently ignoring how long you spend doing a bastd of a job.
2 - You pay the pro.... you get job done... it costs, but, you keep your 'leisure time'... how much that worth? This is probably a couple of good nights out?
3 - Buy a whole new wheel - with cush-rubbers... check e-bay and it's likely your cheaper and safer option, and what the marketing men would preffer. Expensive - ish... compared to the price of the bike... but as said, its cheap bike... back to the economics.
A-N-D lesson in there is that the bike don't care how much it cost, when it needs stuff fixing. It takes what it takes, and a tyre for a £1000 Brand-New Imachink costs as much as it does for a second hand Yamaha, and takes just as many minutes to remove and replace... possibly more, give or take rusty nuts and bendy monkey-metal...... Just 'cos the bike was 'cheap' to buy, doesn't mean it will be 'cheap' to run or live with, in fact probably the converse, A-N-D why the thing was 'cheap' to begin with.....
4 - get down and dirty..... THIS is NOT BMF poster-Child recommended advice, and for good reason... BUT there is a certain degree to which you can get away with shear botharcy..... NOT doing the job properly.
On cush rubbers; if left they make the gear change harsh, and give the chain and sprockets a tough time, so they wont last as long.... but it be chink.... they probably wouldn't anyway....... which gives SOME lea-room to fudge it..... and in days of old sprockets were bolted directly to the hub...... and it's a cheap-chink.... it hardly makes enough powah to pull the skin off a rice pudding, it's NOT going to do 'too' much damage to itself in much of a hurry.
I have on Japanes bigger bikes with 'paddle' type cush drives, actually packed out the fcuked cush rubbers with plastic cut from an old washing up bowl or similar, to good effect... its not a real 'fix' and given the piece part price of Jap cush rubbers on a paddle cush, NOT really worth exploiting for much more than get-me-by-till-pay-day, or the delivery date;
BUT it's not too high criticality, and on a Honda Metalised bush type rubber.... yeah! I would be swearing at the chap in Homatsu... A-Fkin-Gain- who designed them as a 'cost cutting measure'.. they are actually a neat bit of design on some levels, B-U-T they are a bast to replace.....
There is some scope in there, though to bed the sprocket pins into the bushes with araldite, or pack them with rolled up stak-a-box plastic or similar, to take out some of the 'slop'.... it wont last.... it Is a botch.... but it can work well enough till funds allow a better fix
5 - Alternatively, you apply the selective-vision spex and just IGNORE them... drive line slop will be horrendous, your gear-shift will be horrible, and chain life, abysmal, BUT you'lll get to work.... just dont rag it, and try get a bit slick over your changes and throttle control.. learn the old art of predictive riding.... goes a long way that one..... DONT fix the problem.... and ultimately the slop WILL knock the bushes out completely, and likely start eating into the alloy of the hub, and you are down to having to find a new wheel.... but would that put you in any worse place really than you're in now?
THEM, hopefully slightly more helpfully, is really your options; As far as what you got goes and the cost of the piece parts as charged on e-bay vs what the back-street botcher wants... well, yup... he'd costed probably the exact same bits plus his time to find them on e-bay... his time ent 'free' you know! So yes, does look like DIY is the way to go, especially on rice-market Chink... BUT I've been at this game a heck of a long time; I know a heck of a lot of the botches, as described above and HAVE tackled these little basts on more than one small-honda / honda-clone.... it is NOT an easy one!
Them buggas are two steel sleeves around a rubber core, in a THIN, heed alloy hole... easy enough to get the inner sleeves out, if they didn't come out with the sprocket pins.... HINT point to check... rather hard to get into new bushes if the old sleeves are rusted on the old pins! If not, a 6mm drill will rob out enough rubber from around them for them to be pulled out and let you get at the outer sleeves.. which is where the fun begins... these are usually corroded solid to the hub... sleeves chit-steel, hub's alloy.... and the corrosion is a pig.. you MAY be lucky and they will just 'drop' out.... which probably suggests the hub wasn't gripping them, and likely wont grip new ones! Ie kbluggered before you begin.... if NOT you strand a better chance IF you can get the sleeve out without damaging the hub, and as hintimated, sleeve is steel, ie hard, hub is allow, ie soft..... you can try a paint stripper heat gun and cold water to try and get some differential expansion happening, the alloy expanding more than steel to loosten it off... but dont be too optimistic... and beware that chinky alloy MELTS at an incredibly low temperature.... I think it must have a lot of zinc in it, but still... it will distort at a lot lower temperature than it will melt, and that at a temperature you could easily get with a naket-flame bow-torch.. so be careful, IF you go down that route.... Other way aout is to cut it out. Principle is simply to cut three or four slots around the sleeve to leave petals you can get under with an old screw-driver or similar and just pry out..... Y-e-a-h... great 'Principle'..... in practice the holes are 'blind' as in theres a base at the bottom, so you can only get 'in' with a small file, and even there you cant draw it over the whole width you want to slot.... A-N-D big risk, if not inevitability, you WILL at top end go through and cut into alloy hub beneath.... which may not actually be too detrimental, as long as you dont go through that alloy... which is very soft and very thin remember.... sleeve will spread load over a much wider area of metalk in operation, it 'may' be OK.... B-U-T you can spend many many hours to completely fcuk the hub.... you have been warned.... and IF you even night-mare at the notion, remember my old wood-work-teachers advice... power tools let masters make more, and idiots fuck-up-faster..... which was in 1983 rather incongriouse, hearing a 60+ year old teacxher swear, ore use the eff-word... but still, holds truth... THis is somewhere you WILL be tempted to get in with a dremmel to save elow-grease, and THAT 'laziness' is as like what will lead to an even more expensive end.... B-U-T its your call.
THIS is chinky-bikes; IF you know enough to live with one, you probably know enough not to buy one to begin with, A-N-D, the ecconomics aren't much different...... if you can't afford something 'better' you probably cant afford to live with the tribulations a cheap chink will offer to cost more in the long tun than coughing upfront for the better bike, and not having to graze oily knuckles so often... but still.... teach as they go.... maybe... ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Beehive Bedlam |
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Beehive Bedlam World Chat Champion
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Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg nimbA
Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 08:09 - 22 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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Yup, Abusive given for blatant and repeated waycism. He's been told over and over. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 14:27 - 22 Mar 2018 Post subject: |
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Whether the road-vehicle as registered was first assembled in Tiwan, Balangladesh, or Homatsu, is of little pertinence.....
Fact is these bushes are a bast'd to get out, without wrecking the wheel, or not... in which case wheel was probably wrecked to start with, lacking metal to grip the ruddy things!
Hardly racist to say so, especially when criticism also applied to original design and product emanating from Japan!!! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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steve the grease |
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steve the grease Crazy Courier
Joined: 26 Jan 2018 Karma :
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Raffles |
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Raffles World Chat Champion
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Robby |
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Robby Dirty Old Man
Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :
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bassmastergen... |
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bassmastergen... Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Karma :
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Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg nimbA
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Sammydroid |
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Sammydroid Derestricted Danger
Joined: 21 Mar 2018 Karma :
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Posted: 17:53 - 06 Apr 2018 Post subject: |
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I ended up just buying yet another wheel in the end (i’ll just sell the other one on at a loss, let someone else deal with it )
One i bought was only £55 quid inc postage off ebay and it came with a decent tyre, bushes, sprocket and the disc as well.
Would have cost more to have the work done
But thanks for all the advice |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 358 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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