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So I confiscated an XR125 yesterday....

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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:


I really dont know why so many treat the MOT with such dread and so resent paying the test fee for it, when it is comparitively so cheap, and so helpful, if you look at it t'other ways about... its there to help, not hinder.


The same reason I would resent paying you for a CBT.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
I know, I was thinking of possibly mounting it (the number plate) a bit lower, and central. It's got pull me written all over it. Laughing
But it's way down the list.


The plate looks like it already has some light soot / melting action on the edge nearest the exhaust. Centering it up will mean meltyness and buying a new number plate at some point (admittedly if you're punting it straight on that won't matter).
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grr666
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My idea was to drop it down a bit and whack a rectangular reflector in the gap to make it tidier ,I've got one from
an old pushbike somewhere, drilling new holes as necessary. The rear L plate is catching the tyre too slightly, was
going to try and beef that up a bit somehow so it doesn't flop onto the tyre.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 10 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't seen a small trailie yet that didn't melt or burn the number plate eventually, even an 8x6 or 7x5''. At least OP won't have the issue of the plate getting covered in thick black oily splurge though. Laughing
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a couple of these XRs so can help out with pics for original routing of cables etc too.

In no particular order....

- Main thing is that the frame is ok before starting anything.
- Rear suspensions on these tend to go. Check for play in the bearing too.
- New chain and sprocket kit is roughly £45. Split link chain so easy to do.
- Rear wheel bearing kit is £10 (did mine last weekend, easy job)
- Rear brake shoes probably need doing too going by the rest, £10, whilst doing rear wheel bearings
- Remove top yoke, re route cables
- Headlight is aftermarket, if sticking with it, will it pass? The screw under the headlight is the aim
- Seat is two bolts (need to remove the side panels for access (a bolt on each panel)
- Exhaust, check for holes
- Rear tyre fitted roughly £70
- Brake hose easy job, plenty on here to help
- I'd remove the alarm entirely if you can (I don't like alarms!)
- Replace the front disk, check on eBay for second hand, good condition and thickness
- Rear footrests, replace (eBay?)
- Front mudguard shouldn't be a hard fix
- Please sort that god awful numberplate!

The resale on these aren't too bad.

I'd say it's more time than money you need to throw at it. I might have missed a couple of bits or mentioned bits already sorted but was going by what you mentioned and the MOT fails!

Cheers
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grr666
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any way of checking for free if this bike is a repaired insurance job? Aftermarket handlebars, aftermarket headlight
etc etc Thinking I'm really beginning to wonder about this bike history before the father in law bought it off of his wifes ex husband
for £1200, Laughing I know for SURE he won't have looked into it at all. Didn't someone on here figure away of doing it via compiling
a bike trader advert?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Free

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4544083#4544083
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't believe nobody has mentioned the bent subframe and slack chain yet.

And in this case...
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Is there any way of checking for free if this bike is a repaired insurance job? Aftermarket handlebars, aftermarket headlight
etc etc Thinking I'm really beginning to wonder about this bike history before the father in law bought it off of his wifes ex husband
for £1200, Laughing I know for SURE he won't have looked into it at all. Didn't someone on here figure away of doing it via compiling
a bike trader advert?


My brother did the same thing roughly 15 years ago when he had one. Changed to a different headlight and renthal bars just for looks.

With it's history it could be but not standard from what I can see is:

Headlight
Mirrors
Bars
Plastics
Numberplate
Rear carrier rack removed
Indicators

These could have all been changed from standard 'to look better'

Cheers Thumbs Up
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grr666
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby's just been to visit.




What an utter bastard. Laughing

It would appear the wire fix has cured the starting issues, it's started a few times from cold on half choke no worries at all. Thumbs Up
He's spotted a couple of other bits that may benefit from a little attention, some which will affect MOT and a couple
which are just sensible.

Wrong type of fuel pipe to the carb. It's ok but you can feel it's gone brittle. Needs replaced.

NSR indicator N/W - Just a bulb but a fiddly bugger to get out. Possibility of replacing all four.

We can spacer out the exhaust can a little to miss the rear plate a bit more and/or mount the plate lower.

The brake pipe isn't secured properly or in the right place.

The gearshifter is tucked under the side of the engine a bit, needs some percussive maintenance via a hammer
and vice to make it stick out a little bit more. I'm going to tackle that this afternoon.

After I've been to the pub. Cheers Nobby. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I had a hammer...

Dance!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the brake pipe...

It looks like it's been re-routed by the master cylinder to avoid covering the mini indicator there. There's a piece of casing that sticks out and the pipe is clearly meant to rest against it but the pipe is nowhere near it.

As a result, it's been cable tied on the other side of the handlebars, which I suspect has resulted in the pipe from detaching from the sleeve that runs down the fork leg.

This sleeve is attached securely to the fork bottom and loosely at the top, so that all the movement in the pipe should be forced to occur at the top, wheras gravity has forced it to happen at the bottom, resulting in the pipe chafing on the disc...


It's easy to fix with a new pipe and larger indicators (which I believe I may have some of in my garage off the FZ or FZR and dont really need/want.)

Jefr0 wrote:
I've got a couple of these XRs so can help out with pics for original routing of cables etc too.


yes please....


Other than that the bike is largely up together. I can't really see where it was welded so whoever did it has done a goood job.

There is a barely perceptable movement in the rear wheel bearings but at worst it's an advisory and it's not much to replace if it fails on it.

I'm tempted to suggest fitting a relay (or 2, main and dipped) and some much bigger guage wiring directly from the battery to the front bulb to increase the brightness of the front lamp.

All in all, this bike is a long way from salvaging and its good for another few years yet. Even the cosmetics are in reasonable nick.

/tef
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gear lever now bent out a bit so the rider doesn't have to look for it. Tree stump and hammer were the tools I used there. Thumbs Up
I've also just removed the NSR indicator bulb, it was blown. I was quite surprised to see it was actually a halogen bulb.
Considering what a small space there is for it, it strikes me as being almost impossible to not touch it when installing.
Was also surprised to see the cheapest UK seller wants nearly 4 quid for a replacement. My local car spares shop may have
one on the shelf, I'll check tomorrow. Annoyingly Paypal isn't working properly, so can't order the new pipe yet.
Will try again in a few hours, was hoping to get it on the way here by close of business today, but looks like it will
be next week before it's despatched now unless PP sorts it's life out within the next half hour.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've checked in the garage and it appears that old age is catching up with me.

I do have some indicators but 2 are small ones. There is a pair that look to be longer shaft and bigger lens but not the big motherfuckers I thought I had. All have good bulbs though.

I do have some suitable fuel pipe but it's not the brand new stuff that's outside diameter is an inch across but is some older but serviceable pipe I took off the fz when I couldn't work out whether it or the pump was leaking. (it was the pump).

Anyhow completely serviceable and fabric covered so the sun won't kill it.

Haven't looked for a suitable spacer for the exhaust yet.

Pics to come when I can get on the computamabob
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, and I want to check around for a suitable brake pipe. Oem will be expensive so wemoto etc will be worth a look.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm happy with this one, it seems ideal. And is ordered.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/J20M-Honda-XR125L-2003-2008-Braided-Stainless-Brake-Line-Hose/263547742033?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562584949159&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

OEM was 62quid.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:


So long as we can secure it suitably (which shouldn't be difficult) and it's long enough it'll be fine.

A brake pipe is a brake pipe.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll see if my local motor factors can supply the little bulb and have a go at fitting it. It seems the least hassle option
to get the blinkers MOT passable, Maybe I'll add some outer sleeving over the thin wires too to protect them and tidy
them up a bit. Don't hold out much hope though, it was a cowsun to get out and I mangled it with the long nose pllers doing so.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 11 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Said they were cunts to get out. When you get a replacement note the position of the locating pins. As I said there are two different but very similar bulbs
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grr666
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, they are the ones with offset pins, had similar potential for error with car blinker bulbs in the past. Easily cured
by filing one lug off if you ever get caught out by that little pitfall, bulb stays in okay even with just the one. These particular
type of bulbs are used a lot on jap cars apparently.
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Octapode
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PostPosted: 02:20 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
The rear L plate is catching the tyre too slightly, was
going to try and beef that up a bit somehow so it doesn't flop onto the tyre.


Corrugated cardboard and gaffer tape. Use white gaffer tape if you want it to look less hood. It's held my snapped L plate on the front of my 125 for a few weeks now, so it should last just fine Very Happy
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grr666
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:
Sodding poxy indicator bulb changed. Never in my days have I had so much grief trying to replace a bulb.
Mangled the old one getting it out with long nose pliers. Took many attempts to get the new one in.

Fuel pipe from tank to carb replaced.

Exhaust spacered out a bit and siting nicer, took the link pipe and end can right off and started again as both unions
were blowing slightly. It feels solid now, although it will stand being spacered out a bit more which I'll do tomorrow.

New brake hose has arrived, will be fitted tomorrow all going well and according to plan, plus new fluid of course.

Have decided to change the oil before I give the bike back, I have a gallon of 10w40 oil here so may as well use
some of it.

Looking for torque settings for banjo bolts, bleed nipple and oil drain nut. Can't find sod all on the internet if anyone can help.

Still have headlight bulb, new L plate for the front and refitting of the rear plate and mudflap to do all of which will
be done tomorrow then it will be booked in for test next week and we can wait and see what MOT man says.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil drain bolt is 30Nm (service manual here).

Banjo bolts are 10mm, which should be good up to ~ 40Nm. My CB500 has a listed value of 35. the service manual for the CG125 has 33 (those are the only 2 I have to hand), so 30-ish seems like a good value to work up to.

The bleed nipples don't actually have a listed value on any of my bikes. Nip it up and then a little more. Maybe 10-11 at most?


If you can bleed brakes, you can change the lines. Thumbs Up
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The strumpet torque settings quote 25nm for the banjos and 6nm for the bleed nipple.

Should be sorted today.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The strumpet torque settings quote 25nm for the banjos and 6nm for the bleed nipple.


Aye, a bit of random googling suggests that for Fz-09s its 22Nm, so anywhere between 20 and 35 seems a decent bet. Start low and work up until it stops leaking I suppose.

I can't remember the last time I used a torque wrench on a bleed nipple but it's nice to have the value if you are feeling uncertain about doing it.
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