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07 Hornet 600 electrical problems

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Slavo
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Joined: 07 May 2004
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: 07 Hornet 600 electrical problems Reply with quote

Long time no see,


I have run into a bit of an electrical issue. I will describe issues I experienced leading to this point, the symptoms and what I've done so far. I have a 2007 hornet 600 F7.

So, for a while, I had the starter button issue that caused headlights and high beam not to work. Found a slight wiggle of the button resolved this. Then one day, out of nowhere starter solenoid fuse (main 30A) fries, no dash power, nothing. Replaced fuse, 1000 miles no problem. Then one day, pulled up to petrol station turned bike off, wouldn't start. Checked fuse, sure enough, fried. Replaced and travelled approx 8 miles before bike cuts out. Checked fuse, it's fine. Eventually find ignition wire from battery to loom via inline fuse (not blown) is loose so replaced wire with temporary fix with a blade fuse. During this time, starter button worked intermittently, so shorted solenoid terminals to start just to get home. Since getting home, attempts to start the bike failed. Shorting the solenoid engages the starter motor but I have no FI light, headlights now does fuel pump charge.

Now my efforts focussed on the starter switch initially, so stripped it down and cleaned. However, looking at the 4 copper pads that the switch bridges (normally headlight and no starter when disengaged, starter and no headlight when engaged), I expected to read +Ve from 2 of these pads but only seeing 0.2v. I have taken a direct 12v from battery to each of the pads, individually giving me 1-headlight, 2 giving me FI and fuel pump, 1 giving me starter motor. When trying this with each of the 4 relays removed, one of these functions would stop working. This leads me to believe the relays are functioning correctly as is the ECU as the bike will start and run this way no bother.

When I next get chance, I'll look to see why there isn't 12v to the starter switch but in the meantime was hoping for suggestions.

I've bypassed the ignition switch so have ruled that out.

Thanks in advance,

John
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Slavo
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Joined: 07 May 2004
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So on the switch gear wiring there's a black+red stripe and a black+white stripe, each of these I assume should have 12v when ignition on. These connect to the loom onto black+red stripe and plain black wire. Does anybody know where these wires come from before I cut open my wiring loom
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Slavo
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So fuse box has 3 thick wires, red, red+black stripe x 2.
One of these when ignition on is only showing 0.1v this looks to be the one feeding headlight and starter. When giving 12v to the fuse, works as per above if giving pads 12v. So guess wiring between them is OK.

Gonna try figure out why one if these red wires is not getting full voltage.
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neptune8
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Joined: 22 Nov 2016
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

question is, is it the solenoid, or the starter motor . How to find out. look at the two large terminals on the solenoid, the ones that you shorted out . Put your multimeter on the 20 voltDC scale. Put the negative probe on the engine casing near the starter. use the positive probe on the two large solenoid terminals in turn. One should be permanently live, giving a reading of 12 volts. The other will give zero reading, until the starter button is pressed.It should then give 12 volts. If it does not,and the solenoid clicks , the solenoid is kaput. If you do get 12 volts on this terminal, move the positive probe to the terminal on the starter motor[ the one that carries the thick cable from the solenoid]. If you are getting 12 volts here with the button pressed. the fault is in the starter motor, most likely the brushes.
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Slavo
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Joined: 07 May 2004
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Neptune, thanks for the reply. The issue is not with the solenoid, nor the starter. Both are working fine. The issue lies with one of the 3 main positive ignition wires I believe. This is only giving 0.1v when ignition is on and it is this wire that feeds headlights, fuel pump and starter.

If I bridge this wire with the adjacent red+black stripe wire the bike is fully functioning.

I'm inclined to bridge these wires with an inline fuse but much prefer to find the fault then work around it.

Thanks again Smile
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