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125cc at 149kg

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Pxris
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Joined: 12 May 2018
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: 125cc at 149kg Reply with quote

Hey, I’m 17 and weigh 150kg(I’m tryna lose the weight so I don’t need advice on that haha) but was wondering what 125 is suitable for that weight? Or isn’t there anyways I can ride a bigger bike that’s risteicted? Any help is good, should also note I don’t ride at all and want to get into it.
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Analogkid
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most 125's are designed fo a pillion, so the frame is up for it, make sure you get one with 15hp rather than 10, or you won't be going anywhere fast, good luck with that and the diet.
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Pxris
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Analogkid wrote:
Most 125's are designed fo a pillion, so the frame is up for it, make sure you get one with 15hp rather than 10, or you won't be going anywhere fast, good luck with that and the diet.



Okay I’ll look around, and thanks!
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kgm
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost anything will carry you but expect a 125 to be pretty slow at your weight. Aim for something closer to the power limit. Varadero (old but still a few good ones if you look hard enough), mt125, etc. Look for something close to 15bhp. As I said most will work but you might get frustrated with the performance of a lower powered one. My CG sucks with a pillion.

Certainly nothing to stop you doing it though.
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Pxris
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
Almost anything will carry you but expect a 125 to be pretty slow at your weight. You'd be better at looking at your full license if you're of age. Even a 250 would be a notable improvement.

If you really want to go down the 125 look then aim for something closer to the power limit. Varadero (old but still a few good ones if you look hard enough), mt125, etc. Look for something close to 15bhp. As I said most will work but you might get frustrated with the performance. My CG sucks with a pillion.


I wish I could get something more powerful than a 125 but I’m only 17 so I’m restricted to that(at least that’s what I’ve read up on anyways)
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kgm
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pxris wrote:

I wish I could get something more powerful than a 125 but I’m only 17 so I’m restricted to that(at least that’s what I’ve read up on anyways)


I edited my post after I reread yours (few beers in) but you beat me to it. Yep, 125 only for you at the moment I'm afraid.
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Pxris
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 12 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
Pxris wrote:

I wish I could get something more powerful than a 125 but I’m only 17 so I’m restricted to that(at least that’s what I’ve read up on anyways)


I edited my post after I reread yours (few beers in) but you beat me to it. Yep, 125 only for you at the moment I'm afraid.


All good, I haven’t even got my job yet(probably will have one soon) so maybe I could save up for 6 months and the lose 50lbs, maybe that’ll help.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont sweat the small stuff... there are bigger fish to fry... err.. you m-a-y need a bigger fringing pan thogh LOL... but no seriousely!

ALL 125's are comparitrively slow and barely adequately powered.. B-U-T!!!! nothing in the UK and most of europe is allowed to go much faster than our 70mph motor-way speed limit.... and most 125's even the sub-standard chinky ones can usually manage the 60mph National-Speed-Limit that applies every where but a motorway.... and can break a heck of a lot of speed limits if you try hard enough.....

NEXT... power is, scientifically rate of work-done, work done is the resistive force trying to slow you down, which when it comes to a bike, is mostly WIND, not WEIGHT.

Wind resistance is how hard the air pushed back against you when you try and move through it.... at walking speeds the resistance is so small we dont even tend to notice it.... it's not until you get to moped speeds over 15mph or so that wind resistance even becomes particularly noticeable.. than it ramps from there, and at maybe 20mph it feels a bit strong, and at 60 quite hard, and at maybe err... 90.... "who chucked the wall at me!" lol

Wind resistance does increase and increase almost exponentially with speed. It does increase with the 'frontal area' itrs acting on, but the size of a bike and rider dont change a lot.... you can chanmgie itr by ducking your head down over the handle-bars, and that does make quite a difference, B-U-T... for practical purposes, frontal area dont change, wind resistance ibcreases and increases a lot, with how fast you go.

Little guide for you; like I said the frontal area of a bike and rider doesn't change much; it takes about 3bhp to shove one to 30mph... about the top speed of a moped.... takes about 9bhp, 3x the power, to get to 60mph, 2x the speed... about as fast as a pretty typical 'commuter' 125..... takes about 27bhp... the power you might get from a well fettled, full power two-stroke 125 'sports-bike' of old, like a Cagiva mito or Aprillia RS.. to get you to about 90mph.... again, not even 2x the speed, 1.5x the speed, but still you need 3x the power..... and so it goes on.... to get to 120mph, another +30mph, you need 3x the power, around 81bhp, and you are looking at 500cc+ bikes to get that sort of power.....

Beyond that..... about the fastest thing on two-wheels struggles to achieve 200mph.... and to do that, by the 3x power for every +30mp-h 'rule' you aught need perhaps 240-600bhp or so.... you dont.. the rule IS starting to untangle at those sort of speeds, and the bikes that might start scaring 200mph, like a Hyabusa, will tend to do so from 200bhp sort of power, and some very very slick aerodynamics to try keep wind resistance in check, and more significantly, a deliberately very small frontal area to start with.

Consequently, there is a natural plateaue for top speed around 150-160mph, few motorcycles may even exceed if they are capable, and its legal.. and and most? Living in the real world where there's a 70mph upper speed limit, and punativce fines and bans if you break it.... it's muchly only of accademic interest to most folk how fast a bike 'might' go... and practically, an A1 complienet 125 IS for 90% of the time more than enough....

As said, they can still break a heck of a lot of speed limits up to thier potential top speed, at or around the National-Speed-Limit nothing should really go any faster than anyway...

The BIG difference is that bigger bikes, with bigger engines and more power, 'may' break them speed limits more easily.... cos they can get from 0-60 in a couple of heart beats.... where you could probably read two or three of my long-winded posts on a Learner-Legal 125!

But of base fizziks, force = mass x acceleration... now weight does come into the equation... you have a finite force, then the acceleration wont be as great trying to shove a bigger mass along.. BUT will get to the same top sped... just not as quickly.

So lets talk gears... cos power isn't force! The force shoving you along is the force made in the engine.. and that changes with the engine rpm, and its transmitted to the back-wheel where it does the shoving by a gear-box.... abd gears are rotating levers, the magnify force..

Archemedes, I believe "Give me a long enough lever and I can move the earth"..... just probably not very much....

Principle of a lever, you have two ends and a pivot; if the pivot is in the exact middle, whatever force you applyt to one end, you get at the other, whatever movement, however many mm you move it up or down, you get at the other, because the 'ratio' is 1:1. Move the pivot closer to the end that you aren't lifting with your hands, so that there's say 4x the distance from lift to pivot as pivot to other end; you get 4x the force on the other end, but only 1/4 the distance moved.

It's see-saw princliple, and a 2strone todler on the very end of a see-saw can balence a 100ln Dad sat near the pivot of the other end....

This is wot gears do.... remember its force that makes things move; force that makes you accelerate, and force that is over-coming drag when you are moving at constant speed.

You want to accelerate faster... use a lower gear..... gives more leverage, gives more force to the back wheel, so you accelerate faster.....

And THIS is what 125's have limited power for.... to MAKE you learn to use gears properly......

Tendency of new riders on little bikes is to feel a strong 'surge' of power as they start moving, and at low speeds, when drag is small, and they accelerate pritty briskly.... so they change up a gear....and again... and again... until they run out of gears at probably about 50mph and start moaning trhe bike dont go no faster..... when vook says it should....

Reason is that the power made in the engine increases with engine revs.

Typical 125cc commuter makes about 10bhp at about 10,000 rpm, ie about 1bhp per 1000rpm. Means that at 10-20mph the engine is probably only making 1 or 2bhp, and its only making 3bhp at anything up to 3ooo rpm, less than 1/3 the way up its rev-range.... remember guide above, only takes 3bhp to go 30mph.. so a lot of L-Plate riders DO change up all the way to top gear before they are doing 40mph....

Now, at around 50-55mph, they hit a wall... opening the throttle trying to make bike go faster... it wont.... it's pulling perhaps 5ooo rpm, and delivering 5bhp, and it just doesn't have the power to over come any more drag to be able to go faster......

To do that.... and bike will.. like going up a hill... feels counter-intuative and a lot of new riders just DONT like doing it... is change DOWN a gear..... now, the gearbox probably doubles the fortce at the back wheel, more, the engine has to spin up to almost double revs to do it, and now the engine is making full quota of 10bhp not 5, AND the force at the back wheel is doubles, you HAVE the 'force' to make the bike move... up a hill or accelerate faster.. and it WILL go a bit quicker... and in 4th, one gear beneath top, it will likely go almost as fast as it ever will, making as much force from its little engine as it can, and putting it all to the back wheel to do the shoving, and if anything stops you going any faster, it will tend to be that the engine just runs out of puff... and cant make any more power, and changing up to top, you will drop the revs back, and the power and hence the force to a balence point where the bike just doesn't have spare to accelerate, and will 'top-out'.. on almost any 125, if not at, certainly close to, if not maximum speed limit of 70mph for motorways and duel carriageways, certaily the 60mph national speed limit that applies to A-Roads where they haven't re-classified them 50 zones....

SO... if a 125 dont go fast enough...... iut AINT the bike thats the problem! Its YOU.. and its NOT your weight!!!!! Its what you expect and how you ride.

I'm pushing half a century old, I occasionally still ride a 125 for fun. More I even carry pillions and luggage on the ruddy thing!

I'm 15 stone or near enough. Most usual masocist if I can coax her on the bunny is my long suffering other-half who is... discretion Michael, Discretion... best part of what was that again? Lol.... err.. I shall just say she borrows my wet weathers and moans they are a tad tight, shall I?

As said, 125's like most motorcycles are ONLY necessarily small inside the engine in the hole where fire happens. They are still designed to carry two people, and not midgets, but full size folk, or typical weight... and a 125 with a duel seat SHOULD be able to pull two people around; rider + pillion, 200lb or 180Kg, plus luggage... maybe another 50-100Kg depending on what and how you load, on top of its own 150ish KG kerb-weight.....

Learner-bikes is about the learning, and learning to exploit 'gears' a large chunk of that.....

Even on a bigger bike, like the O/H's 750c Moto-Guzzi... loaded up to go camping in Derbyshire, it is going to be carrying its ownb weight in loggage and more still in rider, even without a pillion, and having that much more power will NOT mean you can point the thing at hills and expect to get up-em at the posted speed limit just 'cos it has a bigger engine... you STILL need tgo use the gears, you still need to use the throttle, and to do it half reasonably well, know what you is about....

THIS is what learner bikes is all about... the learning!

As said... use one as intended, LEARN, learn to use gears, learn to get the most out of the thing, and how big you are shouldn't really matter.... the learning does.... getting the licence does... NOT GETTING KNOCKED OFF! does.... stuff what you think you look like, stuff whether you think that 3bhp difference between a generic Chinese budget bike and a full-fat style conscious Jap-branded bike will make any difference....

In the real world it WONT....

Most roads are limited to 20 or 30mph speed limits you could achieve on a moped or even a push-bike FFS, on a 125, almost any 125, you will just brake them quicker! And you will be able to break most speed limits all the way to the motor-way limit, and until you have a fuill licence and can legall use a motorway... that really shouldn't be an issue......

Go learn.... diet if you want to, its probably good for you.... heck... push bike? Get around and get fit.. save petrol, and insurance and tax and the rest of it along the way!

BUT, if you want to ride motorbikes, DONT sweat the small-stuff. First step is to go do your CBT to get your 'LEarners-Permit'.. that is all it is.. it is NOT a licence or a suibstitute for a licence, its just fiorst lesson so you can go learn... use learner bike on L's as intended... go learn... gears a big part of that.... and of you have any sense.. get a licence to prove what you have learned along the way.... and THEN..... maybe a ball ache having to weight two years to be allowed anything bigger... B-U-T.. still more learning to be had, and as said, I still ride 125's they are NOT toys or kiddie bikes, they are, if you learn to use one right, as fast as anything else is legally allowed to go in this country, and incredibly useful little machines, with the big bonus that can be pretty ecconomocal on fuel, on tyres and other consumeable bits, and cover a heck of a lot of miles for not a lot of money.....

As said, its in your expectations.... and 'weight' is as much in your head as on your belly.... dont swet the small stuff, go do a CBT, and start learning, rather than worrying... its far more fun.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 01:20 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Meanwhile...

OP is 24 & 10st now he's read that lot. He can now do DAS and fit in a 30" waist.

https://i.imgflip.com/1e08gn.jpg

I had me with my father in law riding pillion my 125 scooter last weekend, he's 18st all day long and I'm
somewhere between 14 and 15 stone. It's surprising what a 125 can do.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 02:43 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usual answer. Do tests to get your full big boys license.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 04:28 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Shocked Meanwhile... OP is 24 & 10st now he's read that lot. He can now do DAS and fit in a 30" waist.

The jest was made he'd have time to read my posts in the time it took a Chinky 125 to accelerate from 0-60....
Ste wrote:
Usual answer. Do tests to get your full big boys license.

Pxris wrote:
I’m 17

Unfortunately he'd have to wait a few years to be able to do that in a oner....
Oh for the days I passed my test and could get off a 125 with L's straight onto a VF1000... hyabusa's and the like hadn't been invented yet!

Pxris wrote:
I haven’t even got my job yet(probably will have one soon) so maybe I could save up for 6 months and the lose 50lbs, maybe that’ll help.


THIS though could be the real bugger in the log-shed......

Pxris... be warned... when we say that 125's are 'cheap' that is a very relative statement.....

CBT qill likely cost something in the region of £150; you will have to have a crash-hat, and are asvised to sensible foiotwear.. and you can start cranking up big money very quickly chasing all the parafanalia

Going old-skool.... you only need crash proitection IF you crash, and even then it dont stop you getting hurt, or deaded just cusions the blow a bit..... you might togg up for under £100 if you have enough stuff in the wardrobe, or some-one else does you can improvise from, on the layer principle top add padding to soften the bang if you fall off, and where leather does wear well against tarmac, it only does it till it's worn away.... if wool wears twice as fast, have twice as much wool between skin and r4oad and it will last twice as long before skins scraping asphelt... thincker layer of soft wool might also add a bit of bang saving padding too.... so you DONT need to spend a fortune on dedicated bike wear to get the same level of crash protection.

A-n-d your money, to my mind is better spent on crash PREVENTION... which as fresh faced learner, is probably lessons and learnings, so you can dodge the stuff that make you crash... can come expensive though if only lessons you can get is DAS courses intended to win folk big-boy licences in a week... but shop about.

Oh-Kay... £150 worth of CBT coure... £50-80 for a budget crash hat, maybe £30-£50 on some gloves, and since they is cheap enough, probably £50 on a set of water-proof overalls... covers all and any improvised riding gear, keeps you warm, keeps you dry, and I find it rains here in britain more than I get knocked off, so what (weather) protection, they offer is far more used, and you are almost garanteed to get the value from them.

So far budgets up to around £300 and we are only just about ready NOT to but a bike but go look for one..... new in the show-rooms, you are looking at anything from £1500 up to £4500 or more, depending on how pretty you want it to look.....

All good stuff, but probably depressing if you dont have the money for as much pretty as you'd like.... BUT that is far less depressing than when you try get insurance quotes for the thing.....

This is vooddoo maths, we think that the brokers look at the daily weather forcast and use that in thier calculations of hos much they would like to charge you....

BUT at 17, the ONE thing we can say for sure is it AINT gonna be cheap.... cheaper than for a car perhaps, but it AINT going to be cheap as McDonalds french fries!!!

Depends on the bike; its value, its age, and the useage you declare on the proposal... +Commuting so you can use it to and from work or college can multiply 'base' quotes.... so can declared anticipated mileage, and then how much 'voluntary' excess you agree to pay towards on any claim made....

Ball park.. at 17 years old, you are looking at the think end of £1000 a year for insurance, for the least inociouse old heap that can be taxed.... which might only actually cost half that to buy.....

MONTHLY PLAN!

Take note... this is only legally available to over 18's as it is NOT a monthly plan to buyt your insurance month by month; it's a bank-loan to pay for a years insurance policy up-front, and you are left to make the repayements on the loan....

If you are under 18 you may not even be eligible for the monthly plan, you'd have to pay upfront. If you dont have a job, or a job history of unbroken income, or a credit rating.. you may not be offered trhe credit plan, without some-kind soul over 18 who does 'counter-signing' the agreement..... OR taking policy out in thier name with you as named rider on it..... which is a dodge and a bit tricky, but can be done.

Take note... these are off-the batt hurdles you will likely face, and again, long before youe weight becomes an issue, your employment status income and available money WILL!

Pxris wrote:
maybe I could save up for 6 months and the lose 50lbs, maybe that’ll help.


Err... yup... getting old will help... but 6-months probably wont be long enough to make much of a difference!

Insurance prices dont tend to drop much, if at all until the proposer is over 25, or even 30, and even then, they can remain high if the time the licence has been held isn't long.

Biggest potential discount of insurance prices, is No-Claims-Discount, which vary, but can be as much as 25% for one year, 15% for second and third, then 5-10% for the next couple until you have maximum no-claims at around 5 or 6 years, which can be as much as perhaps 70%,,, before the age you have accrued more the length of full licence accrued in the time you have been collecting NCB gives you double wammy, and by the time you are 30 odd seems like you are paying peanuts compared to other folk...

So IF you are going to get on and do, it's gonna cost. Just accept that, and hopi9ng that things will get cheaper if you wait, and that you might save up a bit more towards them, probably wont help all that much....

Being over 18, as far as the credit hurdles, and having 6-months or more's worth of pay-packet slips to show for it, though probably will.

BUT 125's is 'cheap' to run... compared to bigger bikes, but they aren't all that cheap to buy; You wont get much for under £500 that has an MOT... and the few you might find probably wont work too well for too long.... A-N-D there are far more teenagers on a pocket-money budget all with the same idea, all wanting a 'cheap' 125 to get to work, competing with as many older folk who similarly want cheap-wheels-to-work, you need to be pretty smokey to find one, and clued up when you look at it to know if its worth anything, let alone the ask-price, before some-other mug has snapped it up in thier ignotance...

£1000? Gives you better chance of better bikes. £1500 puts you in the mid-market, and chance at more of the better bikes; of which the bench-mark is a 3-4 year old Yamaha YBR125 commuter... no fancy looks or performance, but solid little work-horse, and over-all consistenly one of the lowest cost 125's to own, 'all in' when you tally up not just the but price, but the depreciation when you come to sell, and the insurance costs and maintenance the thing needs along the way..... £2000-£2500 is puts you into the budget end of the new bike market, where you might get some of less reputeable Chinese made comuters, and maybe just eek something like a YBR ort CBF on discount as an old model. (I believe both are now dropped from the official catalogues as they dont meet latest Ero-Emmissions regs.... you may find a dealer with a last of line pre-reg on offer, if you are lucky) Tht sort of money, then gets you the posier 'premium' 125's second hand, at perhaps 3-5 years old.... which will be more expensive to insure and maintain for your money, and likely work out no cheaper all in, and could be pretty expensive depending.

So! Bench-mark is £15-1700 3-5 year old YBR, thats young enough to still be reasonably reliable, old enough its had to have an MOT or two to keep an eye on worse owner abuse or neglect, and depreciated more in resale price than its been worn out in life expectancy. Add your CBT and basic rider apparel.... and chuck in a lock, you are looking at a ball-park of £2000, whih you likely cant get on credit, as you are too young, and finance companies dont offer credit plans on £80 crash hats and £30 gloves!

Add the insurance.... and that is almost certain to be another £100 or more, especially if you intend to use to go to and from a job you hope to get.....

£3000 and you are just about in the game...

What's nat-min-wage for an 18 year old these days? Will that be discounted for rules that let them pay less if they give you 'training'?

If you have to borrow that money, £3000 a year is £60 a week, straight off the top, before you put petrol in the thing, before you need buy new tyres, or have to replace a bent pair of handlebars or brake lever...... A-N-D you have to be sure you can afford that sort of weekly payement, whether you have the bike or not....

Catches many out, especially if they use credit, but you commit to a years insurance policy, the bike gets nicked, you loose bike, and you probably have to keep paying. You crash the bike.... again; you no longer have use of bike, you have to find more money to fix bike, and in the mean-time, IF you haven't lost job you were hoping would pay for it all... you STILL have to keep paying them monthlies.....

I really dont want to put you off, but nieve optimism can get you into a lot of shit very quick...

Before you get a motorbike, or any motorized road vehicle, you need to be sure you can afford what it will cost; you also have to be sure you can afford to loose it... abd have that contingency covered....

Here, I have to say, that if you DONT have to buy a motorbike, and can get to and from on a push-bike, and that can help the diet along the way, that is all good stuff....

Even if you can afford the motorbike... do you really need it to get to and from work? NOT checking the box to add +commuting on the policy can make it a darn site cheaper, and riding a bike along the same roads day in day out, dealing with half awake idiots also on their way to work, is NOT a lot of fun... and IS the most hazard strewn enviroment likely to crash..... Much the same dangers if you cycle to be honest... but you dont have to pay so much for the discomfort! And taking the bus, and grabbing a bit of extra sleep, IS the sensible thing to do....

Save the bike for the week-end and a bit of fun.... but, then bikes is costing, and still significantly and denying the funds to go down the pub, or go clubbing or whatever ionstead... how would you preffer to get to work? How would you preffer to spend your leisure time? Its that sort of balence to decide on.

All comes down to money, at the end of the day, and things IS stacked against you if you are a teenager, I'm afraid.....

Like I said though... this sort of stuff is ALL far more significant than how heavy you may be, and how that weight might effect the performance of any 125cc motorcycle......

Dont sweat the small stuff, there's bigger fish to fry... Go book a CBT, go learn a thing or two... which is what Compulsory-Basic-Training is supposed to be for.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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grr666
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://media1.tenor.com/images/b9ebfbf0e8060ab57071dea8e537b05c/tenor.gif?itemid=5922988
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
125 scooter

/thread

A geared 125 will never be in the right gear. You might as well go with a scooter until you hit 19 and can do your A2.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should have mentioned, said scooter = 12.3 throbbing, untamed bhp.
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing I could be fucked reading in that wall of tef is that the NSL is 60 unless you're on a motorway, not quite. Dual carriageways are 70 as well.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scooter as the wise have said is a pretty good idea IMO. It'd only be for two years until OP can go A2 or Unlimited with a course/test training package.

Roger is right about 125's never being in the right gear, and if you want no fuss quiet, efficient and un smelly commuting a twat&go is a good shout for most, with the caveat of it being comfortable for your size/shape. More chance of finding a comfy scooter than a bike IMO.

As for what a 125 can do, well Grrr, and (hate to say it) Teff are right. I've had 26st on a CG125 a couple of times for getting lifts to pick up bikes etc. 50mph tops and Freight train levels of acceleration are to be expected. You'd cope as will the bike but not ideal for any distance or regularity.

What OP definitely does not want is a 150-160kg 125 with 10bhp. 300kg/10bhp power to weight ratio? I don't want to know! Shocked

I'd say a 125 of 100kg or less and one with 25-30bhp would be best, but it really wouldn't even if I always tell myself it is. Laughing
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Pxris
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Joined: 12 May 2018
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Scooter as the wise have said is a pretty good idea IMO. It'd only be for two years until OP can go A2 or Unlimited with a course/test training package.

Roger is right about 125's never being in the right gear, and if you want no fuss quiet, efficient and un smelly commuting a twat&go is a good shout for most, with the caveat of it being comfortable for your size/shape. More chance of finding a comfy scooter than a bike IMO.

As for what a 125 can do, well Grrr, and (hate to say it) Teff are right. I've had 26st on a CG125 a couple of times for getting lifts to pick up bikes etc. 50mph tops and Freight train levels of acceleration are to be expected. You'd cope as will the bike but not ideal for any distance or regularity.

What OP definitely does not want is a 150-160kg 125 with 10bhp. 300kg/10bhp power to weight ratio? I don't want to know! Shocked

I'd say a 125 of 100kg or less and one with 25-30bhp would be best, but it really wouldn't even if I always tell myself it is. Laughing


So you’d recommend a scooter? What scooters best then, tbf I’m only gonna use the scooter for getting to college and back most of the time, I hate getting the bus traffics the worst haha 😂
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt you're buying new, so one that's been well looked after, is the honest answer. Honda PCX 125 by default, since there are so many of them out there.

But - urgh - what Mike said: CBT first, gear and insurance money, then you'll be in a position to decide.
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Pxris
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Joined: 12 May 2018
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I doubt you're buying new, so one that's been well looked after, is the honest answer. Honda PCX 125 by default, since there are so many of them out there.

But - urgh - what Mike said: CBT first, gear and insurance money, then you'll be in a position to decide.


Of course I’ll do that first also maybe when doing my CBT they’ll also be able to help me in the right direction?
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grr666
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 13 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pxris wrote:

So you’d recommend a scooter?

One with full size wheels.
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Pxris
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Joined: 12 May 2018
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 14 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Pxris wrote:

So you’d recommend a scooter?

One with full size wheels.


Nah I was thinking more like a district scooter so I could do some 180s down the street Wink but nah I’ll just get my CBT all sorted than go from there.
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Octapode
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 04 May 2018
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 14 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pxris wrote:
Nah I was thinking more like a district scooter so I could do some 180s down the street Wink


Now there's an idea - 125cc kick scooters...
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stephen_o
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Joined: 02 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 14 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a point that my YBR 250 has according to the manual a maximum load capability of 180 kg for Rider Pillion and Luggage so a 125 is going to handle and ride as if it had a pillion anyway.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 14 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant something like this, same as mine. (Mines a bit tatty but sound)

https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/moto_gallery/YAMAHAXenter125MotoGP-4461_2.jpg

16 inch wheels. Thumbs Up And mono shock Cool Racing scooter Wink
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SmokeEm
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Joined: 08 May 2018
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 15 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am 47 and new to biking - I like you was over 150kg until recently and I too was worried about a 125. I went to my Honda dealer and he said that the CB125F I have now ordered will be more than adaquate as it was designed to carry 2 12st people. Yes it might not hit max speed but thats not the point. I can't wait to get on it!

I might be able to help with the weight issue too - Try cutting out ALL bread and think about taking a vitamin D supplement. I've lost 5st in 5months by being careful as well as doing the above.
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