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CG125 rough transmission on engine over-run

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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: CG125 rough transmission on engine over-run Reply with quote

Hello.

I am a late returner to biking, having ridden thousands of miles in the seventies and eighties on a few different bikes of various sizes. I gave it all up about 1995, but lately bought a quite low mileage CG125 BR for pootling about the country lanes of a summer evening. It has only got 11500 miles on it and is a 2000 model Brazil CG.

The engine works great for what it is and the gearbox, but as I run along a slightly downhill road at say about 50 mph, when the engine is kind of balanced between pulling the chain and being pushed around by it, I am getting a rough vibration through the footrests, which I think is likely the chain going tight and loose alternately on the top and bottom run as the engine sometimes is pulling and sometimes being pulled over by the rolling bike. If I shut the throttle or open it, the feeling goes.

Obviously I have adjusted the chain in the time honoured way with about 3/4 inch of slack at the tightest point on the bottom run, but this doesn't stop the issue. It feels like the chain is rucking up slightly. It is properly lubricated and defo not too tight or loose. There are no fouling marks in the chain guard and the sprockets look good.

The guy I bought it off had it laid up a good while before I got it and he said he had replaced the chain and both sprockets just before it went out of use. Looking at the chain, it looks a bit of a cheapo one with pretty rough looking rivets punched into the links.

I'm not used to the cush drive in the rear hub (I mean I can't remember them being on my old bikes) and the sprocket only looks to be held in by the circlip as I can just make it move by gripping the sprocket and wagging it. Only the movement allowed by the circlip though - not falling apart or anything.

I don't remember my old bikes doing this rough over run if the chains were adjusted so I don't think it is normal......


Any ideas Lads??
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neptune8
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chain may actually be tighter in one place than another. with bike on center stand [if fitted] check chain tension at different places by rotating rear wheel. Rear sprocket is as you say retained by a large circlip. A tiny bit of side play is OK, but there should not be much radial play [ hold wheel still whilst trying to turn sprocket] if there is excessive radial play the cush drive rubbers need renewing. They are a barstward to get out. Only use genuine honda ones, as pattern parts last about five minutes.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

neptune8 wrote:
The chain may actually be tighter in one place than another. with bike on center stand [if fitted] check chain tension at different places by rotating rear wheel. Rear sprocket is as you say retained by a large circlip. A tiny bit of side play is OK, but there should not be much radial play [ hold wheel still whilst trying to turn sprocket] if there is excessive radial play the cush drive rubbers need renewing. They are a barstward to get out. Only use genuine honda ones, as pattern parts last about five minutes.


Thanks for that Neptune8.

I just took it out for another spin to see when it was happening, and I can make it happen at speeds of over about 45mph, but at 30 or 35, there is no issue at all.

On tension and being too tight - I made the tightness measurement on the centre stand and not under any tension. I reckon inder rider weight, it might be a bit tighter possibly. I've also now put the spring preload on hardest setting so there is less movement of the swinging arm with my weight, which is about 12stone 7.

I'll look at the idea of radial play in the cush drive rubbers as soon as I can.

Thanks for your input.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modern(ish) bikes run much longer chain runs that older bikes, necessitating rubber/plastic guides above and below the swing arm so that the chain doesn't eat into the metal. Thats what you can feel the chain rubbing on.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Modern(ish) bikes run much longer chain runs that older bikes, necessitating rubber/plastic guides above and below the swing arm so that the chain doesn't eat into the metal. Thats what you can feel the chain rubbing on.


So are you saying this roughness is normal, or is it likely a mis adjustment thing going on?

I have seen the rubber type pads you mention on teh swinging arm. Maybe from memory, the rear sprocket is a smaller diameter than the old Brit bikes I used to ride on back in the 70s. If that's right, it makes sense that the chain might be nearer the swinging arm than in those bikes.
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Tamsin
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 18 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get yourself onto cg125 UK owners on faceache (My group)

Crush rubbers do go on these bikes quite often but are relatively cheap and easy to replace. I can't see that they would cause the issue in question though,

I'm inclined to suggest that the chain could do with being slackened off slightly (I tend to run about 1" slack when on the stand) and checking wheel alignment. The other thing that comes to mind is that I've heard tell of some crap Chinese front sprockets that did the round a few years back which were sloppy as hell.

Edit to add, there is a "rubbing pad" on the top of the swingarm on a cg125 but a correct length and tension chain shouldn't be hitting it really
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MCN
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheap chain has tight links/pins. If it has a split link, remove the chain and check it off the bike for tight links. You could try to oil it and work any tight links but do not be to surprised if they tighten up later.
A new chain has still to be maintained. Fitting and then storing means the chain lube can dry up.
Recommended advise for storage would be to zlobber the chain with chain lube. (Acidic Used Engine Oil as some say is not the greatest lube)
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tamsin wrote:

I'm inclined to suggest that the chain could do with being slackened off slightly (I tend to run about 1" slack when on the stand) and checking wheel alignment. The other thing that comes to mind is that I've heard tell of some crap Chinese front sprockets that did the round a few years back which were sloppy as hell.


Thanks Tamsin.

I will remove the top and bottom chain guard and do the adjustment again and will re-check wheel alignment carefully. (I once had an A10 Combination chain let go on the A1 half way from Newcastle to London because I had a misaligned back wheel and the rear sprocket had sawed through the inner plates of the chain). NIGHTMARE!

I am also inclined to think that if it doesn't sort out, I might junk the new sprockets and chain and buy proper parts. The chain is certainly low quality. Sprockets look ok - but .......
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Cheap chain has tight links/pins. If it has a split link, remove the chain and check it off the bike for tight links. You could try to oil it and work any tight links but do not be to surprised if they tighten up later.
A new chain has still to be maintained. Fitting and then storing means the chain lube can dry up.
Recommended advise for storage would be to zlobber the chain with chain lube. (Acidic Used Engine Oil as some say is not the greatest lube)


Noted your points MCN. Chain will be going in the bin soon I think, unless re-adjustment sorts it, but I doubt it will.

The chain was pretty dry when I took the bike on, but I oiled it with new engine oil first and then when that was worked in, I used an agricultural chain spray - a kind of thin fizzy oil which rapidly evaporates into grease. It is used on farm machinery and combines and such like stuff. It penetrates and then sets up as the volatile base evaporates. It sort of boils before your eyes. The chain is well greased up.
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Tamsin
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

A new DID chain and sprockets set for the CG is less than £30 from wemoto and it's less than 30 min to fit it all without specialist tools. Stupid not to if there's any query about it really.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tamsin wrote:
A new DID chain and sprockets set for the CG is less than £30 from wemoto and it's less than 30 min to fit it all without specialist tools. Stupid not to if there's any query about it really.


Yes - I agree. I'm going to do it.

I think I've sorted the matter though. I took off both chainguards and went carefully around the chain using a cardboard gauge to judge the slack. It was tight at one spot and was at a bit less than 20mm around 3/4 inch. I slacked off the axle and took half a turn off the adjusters so that there is an inch or 25mm at the tightest point. To be honest, this must be a cr@p chain since I know it is new and I can't see why a properly made chain would have a tight spot when it has not even done 500 miles. Anyway - the grinding sensation has gone on closing down the throttle a bit as I start to run down hill, so the symptom I came on here with has been sorted.

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. Your input as a group is much appreciated.
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neptune8
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well pleased you got sorted. I ride a 2002 CG for the same reasons you do. Been riding since 1963, big bikes and small. I LOVE my cg.
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stephen_o
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 19 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have fond memories of my CG125, the bike I did my test on and I had the same problem as the op but I passed my test the following week and then sold the bike. 20 years old it looked like it had been at the bottom of the sea but what a runner, drum brakes, stopping in the wet from 40 was not for the weak willed.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 04:51 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Err.. the chain's not 'new', it's just 'reportedly' little used.... there's a primary presumption to mother all effups.... It probably WAS a pretty low grade crappy chain when new, but?! Another bit of presumption....

CG's is also something of a victim of thier own reputation, that you cant go wrong with one, and they is so low maintenance... no-one does any.... 'low' is not 'no'.

Enclosed chainguards... should a 2000 model still have the fully-enclosed enclosed chain-guard?... ponder point.... OTMH they removed it about the time they went e-start only on them for cost-cutting.... and later models without cant easily have them retro-fitted.... if so, there's a can of worms there if some-one has tried.....

Meanwhile, that ruddy fully-enclosed chain was an effin pain in the arse from the off, adding to this stupid idea that 'low' is 'no'... and out-of-site-out-of-mind folk didn't bother adjusting the chain tension or adding lube until the chain was so loose it was rattling the tin.. and even then!!!! But still....

QUESTION that sprung instantly to mind, and the pertinent was.....

tony1951 wrote:
I can't see why a properly made chain would have a tight spot when it has not even done 500 miles.


Does it have a split link?

If you use a chain-breaker... badly.... to remove and refit chains, then its very easy to clamp the side-plates on the link that you split tighter than it should be... even more so if it's a plain non 'o''ring chain that dont have the compliance in the seal to give a bit of squishiness.

More likely that a few links, probably held slightly under tension when the bike stored have let moisture get into the hinge and rust it, but standards of maintenance and repair of little learner bikes are not wonderful and learners who tend to ride the things often know even less about looking after the things than they do riding them.

ToBeHonest... given the cost of C&S kits on little lightweights... not knowing the history I would be inclined, to just junk wot-u-got.... and go to Dave-Silvers Emporium of all that is old 'Onda.....

I would order, a brand new OE grade chain and sprockets... A-N-D the sprocket pegs, and nuts, AND the sprocket circlip.... fit and try NOT to forget.... out of site need not be out of mind!

If you remember old iron hub Beezas, the sprocket was often cast integral with the hub and supposed to last a life-time, and chains virtually as long.... modern mechanics says service replaceable parts, and sprockets made of monkey metal, that last just about as long as the chain.... B-U-T.... you may also remember the 'Lore' of the Seven-Fifty-Four, that bought for evaluation by one of the Umberslade-Hall boys, was collected in London from the first batch of bikes into the country, and chucked its drive chain some-where on the A34 around Oxford on its way back to brum, wreckingf the crank cases in the process, and completing the trip in the back of a van; leading to the Japanese 'threat' being rediculed, as Jap-Crap.....

Two technological advances that helped the problem, were the endles chain, rivoted and peened rather than split-linked, and the chush-drive.. a bit of rubber complience put into the drive train, to take out some of the harshness and save a bit of strain on them.

Conventional, 'now' cush drive is the paddle type; wheel hub has webs or paddles in it; a sprocket carrier sits in that 'drum' with mirrored paddles on it, and between the paddles or webs, blocks of rubber allow the sprocket carrier some 'twist' in relation to the wheel...

Look at an older comper, road race or dirt bike, they often have the sprockets bolted directly to the hub.. its lighter, simpler, cheaper and more direct.... bit more harsh... but who cares if you are racing or tearing across a field..... er ME actually! they do fatigue fracture and I have had one let go on me in the heat of competition... which wasn't nice, believe me.... well... actually, it wasn't nice at the time! For me! Observers and scectators found it hileriouse! I sort of came to a halt half way up a hill and for no apparent reason stopped... and tumbled arse over tit back down! But that's a story in itself!

TWIXT THE TWO.. Honda came up with their own low-rent take on the cush-drive... rather than make up a new hub and sprocket carrier.. they drilled outy the sprocket holy holes, to about an inch... they then shrunk metastatic bushes.... (Hmmmm Why does Norton Commando gear-box shimming so suddenly spring to mind?!?!? Yeah...) Honda drilled out the sprocket bolt holes, stuck in metastatic bushes, put four PEGS note they are pegs NOT bolts into the sprocket, dropped the sprocket over the flange on the hub, so that the pegs sat in the metastatic bushes, then held the whole plot together with a big circlip.... Wow, one low rent cush-drive......

Fantastic bit of product engineering.... BUT fraught with service issues.,....

First is that folk think that the peg nuts hold the sprocket on... they don't... but if the pegs are rusted into the sleeve of metastatic they seem to..... This gives rise to them often not being properly tightened to the sprocket and the pegs rocking.. which eats into the metastatic bush sleeve... tightening up the nuts, if any-one spots they seem a bit loose.. then doesn't solve the problem... the pegs just turn and the tiny flat on the peg that's supposed to keep them indexed, just chews a bigger gouge in the sprocket and lets them rock more!

They also think 'cos' theres nuts holding sprocket on... they dont need the circlip.... which pobably pried off with a blunted screwdriver is likely warped anyway and wont hold crap if its put back on and doesn't quickly fall off of its own accord... oh and that's if they have even found that circlip, usually lost under a decade or more of oily-gunk that may once have been chucked into the chain case in hope of making chain last till dooms-day!

IF you is messin in that region... tempting to overhaul the lot... replace metastatic bushes, replace pegs, replace circlip, fit new sprockets and add new known good chain... job jobbed....

Them bushes though is an absolute effin pig...... getting them out of a blind hole is no mean feat, and the aluminium holding them is softer than the steel of the sleeves in the bush.... and almost as thin... trying to get the little sods out of they have made a nice home for themselves with a good dose of electroferitic corrosion bedding them in... can result in doing more harm than good..... be warned!

If old, the rubber will be hard, and not so squidgy, but it will still transmit drive and be pretty direct.. changing the pegs, and taking the time to get the pegs to line up fitting them to the sprocket 'fingy' then removing from the hub after giving them a 'nip' to do up one-grunt-tight, with a propper spanner on the back of the sprocket holding the peg 'flats', gets everything to line up and stary tight, if you use nice new circlip and have diligently cleaned the circlip groove for it. Removes most of the wear and slop in the pegs, and likely as good as you can get.

I have wasted many many months trying to reclaim old chains, and humming and harring over sprocksts in my time... and.. yeah.. cut to the chase, but new, but reputable, and be damned... put in the upfront time money and hassle, and it will save you so much in the long run, trying to make the best of a bad job, that will nearly always still be a bad job.

Old chain? Going down it with a couple of pairs of mole grips and some squibby stuff trying to make each link free? Doing that a bit more pukka with a chain breaker trying to set the tension on each link down its length, and then hot dipping the whole plot in a take-away tin full of axle grease on a camping stove..... to get real grease where it does most good.... all a big pain in the proverbial... can work... and I do use the hot-dip trick on the chain for the comper... but, its an awful lot of time and effort for the likely reward.....

Especially when Dave Silvers old'Onda have the bits on the shelf, and at prices that dont really make it sensible to spend time trying to make silk purse out of sows ear from an old, unknown quantity....

WHIST THERE..... Dave Silvers that iss... good idea if you intend keeping the thing a while, to also order a pair of new tappets and the Honda tappet tools by way of the tappet key and lock-nut spanner.

I believe that the tappet key and lock-nut spanner are about a tenner, the actual tappets only about £3 each. The old tappets are most likely either peened to high heck at the valve end 'cos never probably adjusted.... or chewed to high heck the other, cos some-one tried to adjust them! Probably with a pair of mole grips!

Propper tools, make the job a joy, save a heck of a lot of faff, help you get it right every time, and DONT chew up tappets! OTMH you'll need to use every 1000 miles or there-abouts.. seems daft to try make life hard on yourself for the lack of... new tappets, also mean you aren't left scratching your head with the rocker cover off, wishing you had when new tool doesn't really fit chewed heads!

Oh, new lock-buts to go on them are probably a good idea too.... often done up gorilla tight 'just to be on the safe side' and fine threads stripped in the process so they dont actually lock so well! If they aren't chewed to heck on the corners!

BUT, quite a lot of reasons that even a 'good' chain on a bike laid up for an indeturminate period might get stiff links in its chain.. as said, any amount of monkey-mechanics may have been done behind your back aided and abbeted by equal amounts of plain neglect.. which oh-so-common on CG's due to the 'legend', unfortunately.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:15 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need a new chain by the time you have read/rode all the way to the end of The Tef's post/dissertation.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
You will need a new chain by the time you have read/rode all the way to the end of The Tef's post/dissertation.


Ha ha ha - I could tell that it was written from the heart though, and worth the reading. I send him my thanks. He could get a PHD for that and should do. I ought to print it out and frame it out of respect, and it is sage advice so maybe I will do.

Thanks to all you gents for your consideration of my problem, though I must say that Taff has made me feel a little depressed that my CG may not be quite the catch I thought it was. Smile

I bought it off a retired fireman who had it for eleven years in his garage and occasionally took it on the back of a camper van to France. The tiny mileages on the MOT certificates show what he said - It had done 400 miles in eleven years and that he had bought it just to take him and his missus on little jaunts when they were abroad with what must have been a bus sized van and didn't want to drive said van around villages in the Dordoign and Brittany. It has only done 11500 miles and had four owners before him so Taff may be right that it has had some monkey hands poking about at it with spanners, but at least they won't have been as destructive as I was in the 1960s and early 1970s with my old beeza steeds - most of my breakdowns were caused by my fiddling, including blowing a C15 big end by putting half a tube of hermatite under the cylinder base to stop a piddling oil leak..... I shouldn't bore you all with the tales of the burned out valve half way up the A1 on my A10 cause d by me trying to save petrol by lowering the carburettor needle, or the A10 chain sawed to bits by a misaligned back wheel - again half way up the A1 between Newcastle and London, or the sized engine at Doncaster caused by a blocked oil tank filter, or the roaring blue flame blasting out of the A10 cylinder head joint, illuminating the road eerily on the way past Hatfield (badly torqued down head after a top end 'service') or the cam falling off the magneto (almost) because the cam securing bolts were loose. I had to stuff matchsticks into one of the securing bolt holes because the wee bolt had wriggled its way out and vanished in the dark January night, but I did get down to London that time, albeit that it was popping and banging like a good 'un because the timing was a mile out. Funnily enough, my bikes became much more reliable when I stopped taking them to bits as a hobby...... There are too many unknown unknowns when you are a penniless student aged 19..... and you have no idea how little you know. I thought I was a good mechanic. I wasn't and I'm not, but at least I know that now.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take a guess you are probably closer to my Dad's age than mine... but curiously it was a BSA C15 that first inspired my motorcycling.... I was three, and it was red, and it had a big plastic star on the petrol tank,. and my Uncle had procured it, because 'big-bruv' kept moaning he couldn't get to and from college... 'cos my gran had told him he wasn't insured on her car anymore.... after he'd written two of them off driving under the influence.... of what... we still speculate!!!!!

My Dad hated the thing..... Given one in the 80's to chop for trials, I can empathize some!!!!! But still....

Family legend recalls that it was stolen three times, and as it wasn't suitable for carting a wife and kid around, and he was about to leave college and aught be able to afford a car.. never replaced.

In as moment of inebriation, in my 20's... the truth came out!!

The first 'Theft'... was actually that he'd parked it outside a pub in camden... got very under the influence (it was the 60's/early 70's remember!)... and a week later a helpful bobby turned up on my gran's door-step, and asked if her son would like to collect his bike from thier cop-shop! Only THEN was it reported stolen!... He couldn't remember where he'd parked the thing!

The second one, seems similar... he'd popped round to a mates and asked them to have a look at its distributor... got side tracked.... or more likely wasted.... and hitch hiked back to his mum's when he had run out of money! The thing 'may' havce been stolen from outside his mates... and may have been pushed far enough up the road to discover it wouldn't 'bump' before being dumped in a hedge.... and his mate might have reported the theft...

But dearest daddy was most disheartened to get the thing back, and within weeks it was stolen again.... this time, allegedly from outside his college, where it was allegedly chained to the iron railings....

I say alledgedly... after quarter of a century he admitted that actually he had pushed the thing into a canal, so he'd NEVER have to see the thing again.... and Mummy would have to take pitty and give him her car-keys!

She didn't!

WONDERFULLY though.... I found photo's, in my Mum's Mum's attic... actually slides, so none of the family had ever seen them.

My mum's Dad, had in 1967 bought a huge rambling old farm house on the Stratford-Birmingham road; in the summer before the shot-gun wedding, Mum & Dad had created a 'Bed-Sit' on the top floor, and Dad had left the photo's behind.

Among them, were some wonderful shots of Packwood-House.... a Nat-Trust property interesting for its priest-hole.... but I guess, since they were married at Packwood Church... shortly... very shortly.. nay, mere WEEKS before I was born..... Dad was visiting the reverend there, and they made a day of it! Church is the other side of the house's 'moat'.

Among them, though was my Mother, in a very hippy knitted... err.. I probably need say little more than 'hippy' really... Jacket? Coat? Poncho? Shawl? Who knows!!!!!!

Are you gagging at your own memories of the era's fashions yet?

Anyway, Mother-Dearest was sprawled on this red BSA C15.... with L-Plates..... oooh... naughty boy... no full licence to take her pillion....

NO!!!! There's a powder blue Vespa 90 in the back-ground!!!!!

That was my mothers... I thought she didn't get that until 1972 to commute to night-school (To do the A-Levels I made her miss out on!).. but NO! she got it that summer when she and my dad set up... well, attic together!

Curiousely, there's a photo of my father, in VERY big flares.... you know the ones where they look like jeans, but have a ruddy great triangle of corduroy or purple velvet... with gold cowboy braid sewn on!!! Inset in the leg to make them 'flare'.....

You are almost certainly feeling queezy recalling the era's fashions now!

Anyway, pre-farce-broke, when I used a slide-duplicator to make prints from all these lost slides.... THOSE disappeared from the envelkope incredibly quickly!

But not before mother revealed that actually, my Dad with Quadraphenia allussions would find reason to ride my Mum's Vespa, rather than the Beeza, quite often.... and that when she tried riding the Beeza... all hell broke loose that it wasn't 'seemly'!!!!!!!

She loved the Vespa though, and it was an early target for my learning mechanics; pulled out of a heap of scrap at the back of the garage at my Grans rambling barn-house, where it had been ignominiousely 'dumped' after my Auntie had borrowed it and been SMIDSY'd, bending the fork.

Another anecdote recounts how Auntie, after being brought off, was whisked to Solihul general... a 38DD at the age of 14, we only guess how big her assets were at 17..... when, the radiologist, asked her, in good Brumigum.... "Kin yaw tek Nikk'liuss off, luv!" cos X-=Rays and metal neclaces dont mix.... and Auntie, obligingly pulled her skirt up and removed offending 'nik-liss'!!!! Lol

But, almost a decade later, I pulled the thing out the scrap-heap, and tried to fix it. Astoundingly with some fresh petrol mixed with two-stroke in the tank, and the spark-plug cleaned the thing started up on I think the third kick! Then caused consternation, when I found the replacement forks for it, and tried to steal the wheel back off my Grandad's wheel barrow! Lol!

Beeza A65..... oooooh!

That was what the uncle who procured both the C15 and the Vespa rode..... Other attic, at other grand, had a wonderful collection of duplex primary chains hung of nails ion the rafters for one of them, as I recall!

He got it shortly before his 16th birthday as a fixer-upper, on principle he could ride it when he was 16, with the chair attached..... he was 17 by the time it ran further than the end of the drive.... and the chair relegated to lawn ornament.... until he decided to move house, when with a sofa tied on with bailer twine.... it became the favoured means of getting all his mates back from pub!

And village Bobby, apparently commented that he couldn't arrest them.... it was far too funny to watch!!!!
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BusterGonads
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Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite a tale there Taff....

On the C15 - it was fine as long as you changed the oil and didn't drive it wide open for too long. I never changed the oil, reasoning that since it leaked out pretty quickly, none of it was that old anyway, but there is a fault in that logic - mostly, that if I had drained the tank, I would have noticed the blocked up gauze oil filter and probably might have avoided a seizure of the piston one summer day while driving home to Newcastle from London at an indicated 60mph all the way to seize up - about 180 miles. The later C15 was a better engine and I had one of those too. It had a proper bearing on the timing side main instead of a bit of bronze tubing and also a roller big end. I think reliability increased a lot after they made those changes and someone at Beeza Central thought with a decent crankshaft arrangement, they could make a B25, which they did.

Vespas never appealed to me at all after my first frenzied go on a motor vehicle - an old vespa, in a back lane in Scotswood when I let out the clutch on one and opened the throttle and it lurched off with me - wildly out of control until it crashed into a bin. It was 1966; I was fifteen; uninsured; no license and not that popular with my mate afterwards.

Seventies fashion? DON'T GO THERE. You couldn't buy anything but those clown outfits, no matter how hard you tried. I did try. It was either that or go naked.
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Teflon-Mike
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gave up on my C15 as a bad-job. It had a high crown piston and a lumpy cam, and consequently mashed valves; the rest of it was a right mish-mash of starfire and Street-Scrambler bits and bobs, and I recall a rather leaky two-tone glass-fibre tank, none of which fitted together properly, probably because of some notion of 'De-Lugging' going on, and substitution of atatchment points with coat-hanger wire... were't zip ties a miricle of technology, eh?

The Vespa.. I have to say was AWSOME.... it filled me with Awe every time I looked at it, and I still feel pretty awful remembering it now!

An automotive anathma, it was aparently designed by a chap at Piaggio who hated motorcycles with a loathing, and told to design one after WWII when they couldn't make bits for fighter-planes... legend suggests he sat down with a clean sheet of paper, and listed all the things that a good motorbike should have.... like big wheels... an engine in the middle... a stiff triangulated frame... and wrote "Nope" in italian next to each item! Then when he ran out of REALLY bad ideas... JUST incase 'management' persisted.. decided that if making the engine the back swing arm wasn't bad enough... off-setting it a couple of inches was obviousely a great move... and if that meant that the wheels didn't run on the same axis? FANTASTIC! No-one would be daft enough to take such an idea seriousely! Would they!?

Err... Porshe 911.... you want to make a well balenced good handling sportscar you do NOT start by chucking the engine behind the back axle in the boot! A Triumph of development over bad engineering!

So they decided to build it... and in honour of the Aeronautical connundrum of the Bumble-Bee, that defies all laws of aeronatical engineering, but flies... 'cos no-one has told the bee... translated into latin... called it the 'Wasp'

I had hours of fun from that Vespa 90.. usually plotting how to get the front wheel off the wheel-barrow without my grandad noticing.... but just looking at the thing, and wondering "WHY!?" and "How!?" the thing just should NOT have been, and most certainly shouldn't have ever worked!!! Yet, like the bumble-bee... some-how it did!!!

If it makes you feel better about crashing into the bin.... family lore recounts how my mother decided to take her motorbike test on the thing...... SOMEHOW managed to do her emergency stop on it, when the examiner stepped out infront of her (silly, SILLY man!) and told her to put it into Neutral, whilst he gave her the next set of instructions... where upon, the cable-operated gears slipped' and it jumped into drive, and WHEELIED... straight over the examiner!!!! Lol!

Funnily enough.... she failed!

AS for 70's fashion.... y-e-a-h.... I was like five.....

There aught to have been a LAW to stop anphetamine fueld hippies sticking thier kids in Kafftans and telling them they look like Jimmi Hendrix... when they are white, freckled and have bright red hair! MORE to avoid such consternation as being stuck in a check lunber-jack jacket... and bright red shorts.... with yellow piping round the pockets!!!!

And then taking PHOTO'S of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And FINDING said photo's forty years later.....

A-N-D showing them to 'the grandkids'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Care homes.... I am reading the reviews with relish!!

Vengence is mine sayeth the lord.... but I dont see why I cant get a bit of payback in the meantime!! He He He!!!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
The Vespa.. I have to say was AWSOME.... it filled me with Awe every time I looked at it

Laughing
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Tamsin
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 20 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the record, from Tefs doctoral thesis on cg125 chains.....

A 2000 bike should absolutely have a fully enclose guard, only the ES 2004 on had a partial guard.

Tony, it's really very unlikely to be a total dog so don't be disheartened, the thing about cg125s is that although they are oft bodged by younguns they really aren't expensive to sort out properly.

It really does sound like a new c&s and a proper oil change (including the centrifugal oil filter inside the clutch side casing) will work wonders!
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 09:00 - 22 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tamsin wrote:
For the record, from Tefs doctoral thesis on cg125 chains.....

A 2000 bike should absolutely have a fully enclose guard, only the ES 2004 on had a partial guard.

Tony, it's really very unlikely to be a total dog so don't be disheartened, the thing about cg125s is that although they are oft bodged by younguns they really aren't expensive to sort out properly.

It really does sound like a new c&s and a proper oil change (including the centrifugal oil filter inside the clutch side casing) will work wonders!


Thanks Tamsin,

Yes - the centrifugal oil filter........ I haven't touched that, but the first thing I did when I got the bike home was change the oil and clean the tea strainer filter in the drain outlet. Like I said, the graunching has pretty much gone after slackening the chain a bit, so I m happy I am on the right lines thanks to advice from here.

Next on the list for sorting will be the accelerator pump. I suspect that the diaphram may be split. If I wack open the throttle at mid revs - say to get up a steep hill, the thing boggs down until I close the throttle to about half, at which point it picks up like a good 'un and storms ahead (storms on a 125?? Smile ). If the engine was at higher revs when I wack it open it picks up fine. I am pretty sure the suddenly wide throttle at mid revs will result in a weak mixture and that the accelerator pump is not working. Externally, I can see the linkage working, and there doesn't look to be any adjustment screw there, so there is no issue of amateur bodger twiddling it into mis adjustment.

Another good thing is I measured my fuel consumption. Last week I took it from the Tyne Valley where I live to the Lake District for a few days and I got 123 MPG over a 190 mile trip. Had a bit of fun going up the Hartside Pass... 1900 feet above sea level and a 17 year old 125... The little bike went up there no problem.

https://img00.deviantart.net/57b5/i/2016/143/0/d/hartside_pass_by_scotto-d9772dd.jpg

There are so many hairpin bends on the way up that I couldn't get up any speed anyway - and in any case the skinny tyres don't inspire me to lean over that much and push the handling. It went up there fine and I was never harassed by cars behind me because they were slower than me except on the odd straight bit.
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Tamsin
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 22 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Accelerator pump is slightly fiddly but pretty straightfowards to disassemble and tidy up, that said I've never seen a perished membrane...
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 22 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tamsin wrote:
Accelerator pump is slightly fiddly but pretty straightfowards to disassemble and tidy up, that said I've never seen a perished membrane...


I had a look without taking the carb off. The linkage is working and the index marks on the cam and cam support frame are correct at full throttle as per the Haines manual. I removed the bottom plate which covers the chamber below the pump membrane and looked at the membrane. It looks sound. I cleaned the bottom piece of the chamber which contains the tiny non return valve under a jet in the base. It looks good. On reassembly and testing, the flat spot persists as before.

Having had a good look I can see that the pump does have an adjustment on the linkage work. However, without any description of the correct settings in the manual, I am reluctant to mess with the settings as they are. I know from bitter experience that it is very easy to mess things up badly by blind fiddling.

If anyone knows how the accelerator pump should be set up, I'd be all ears.

EDIT made about a week later - just for future reference if anyone is interested.

I checked the tappets and found them quite far out. The inlet was about 6 thou, which is twice too wide and the exhaust was a little tight. I could get the gauge in, but had to really push it which means it was probably lifting the valve a bit. Having set them correctly and checked again after the lock nut had been tightened, the whole nonsense of bogging down was gone. It wasn't the carb or the accelerator pump at all. Smile
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 04 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a new chain and sprockets with DID chain got on fleabay from Swansea Moto.

It's like a different bike.

Part of the difference is that they guy who had it before had recently fitted a chain and sprockets and had changed the over all gearing lowering it about 7%.

This was deliberate. He was a big lad and his wife was a big lass and to help out the CG he put on a 14 tooth front sprocket instead of the standard 15 tooth one. The bike is now back to CG125 Brazil W standard gearing with a 36 rear and 15 front. It has much longer legs and rides along in a much less busy fashion. Of course, I am more frequently dropping to fourth on the hills along the Military Road by Hadrian's Wall where I live. No problem with that though. I like the bike far better the way it is.

Beats me why people mess with things like gear ratio. Maybe they think the people at Honda are stupid and need some amateur bodging to make the bike good. I think the same about people messing with loud pipes and blindly re-jetting carbs which I've seen people on here suggesting would make their bike better....
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