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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
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P. |
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P. Red Rocket
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Posted: 15:50 - 19 May 2018 Post subject: |
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Firs thing with carbs is strip and clean, I'd do just that, shouldn't take too long and making sure you put it back correctly and clean, I bet it fixes it. |
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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
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jaffa90 |
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jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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andym |
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andym World Chat Champion
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
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Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg nimbA
Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 14:07 - 21 May 2018 Post subject: |
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Slide carb, right? Is the needle secure in its clip? Is the clip under the spring? I've had all sorts of carb shenanigans when the needle or clip went wandering. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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Octapode |
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Octapode Two Stroke Sniffer
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WmY |
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WmY Renault 5 Driver
Joined: 21 May 2018 Karma :
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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
Joined: 29 Jul 2007 Karma :
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Posted: 13:24 - 29 May 2018 Post subject: |
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Thanks for all your replies.
So yesterday I tackled this again. I had been riding my Dad's XR when that suddenly stopped ticking over. Turns out the mixture screw had fallen out!
I replaced it and the bike ran fine.
So I decided to try this carb on my XR. Still the same problem of anything over half revs just bogs (Bike is fine in 1st/2nd though in whole rev range...)
So that eliminates the carb. Checked the fuel tap by disconnecting it and seeing the fuel run, which was fine.
I also bypassed the ignition to see if it was that, still no change.
At a bit of a loss at the moment. Can only think it's electrical related but not sure where to start.
Pepperami, not sure on the electrical front with your questions - never been my strong point!
Thanks ____________________ Rides: Honda XR 125 ('03) Honda CBR 600F ('91), Ducati 916 Biposto ('95) |
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P. |
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P. Red Rocket
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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
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rpsmith79 |
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rpsmith79 World Chat Champion
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P. |
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P. Red Rocket
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RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ Super Spammer
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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salem1987 |
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salem1987 Scooby Slapper
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moonzoomer |
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moonzoomer World Chat Champion
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Jefr0 |
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Jefr0 World Chat Champion
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
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Posted: 15:43 - 30 May 2018 Post subject: |
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Let us know what the problem was when you find out ____________________ I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now! |
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2Hondas |
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2Hondas Nova Slayer
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Posted: 23:53 - 31 May 2018 Post subject: |
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If its the 15 year old '03 model reffered to in sig line....
I will take a bet that old age is to blame, and that after lots of muggering about with what are, usually the most reliable periferals of an engine, in the carbs and coils.... it will be a clusterfuck of age related issues, of which, the main culpret will be bore and rings and valves.
The ignition, yup a duff spark-plug can do strange things when it gets hot, or a lot of charge is squashed in the pot, but coil and CDi are pretty robust, and if motor 'bogs' as in refuses to accelerate under load, then picks up slowly after lag.... the CDi is sending signal to coil and coil isn't breaking down under heat....
Carb... fuel gets sucked up jets... probided the carb's sealed to manifold... and you suggest it is... I have to admit I am sangiune of the suggestion... them rubber O'Rings in Kehin PD's dont last for ever, and bike's old.... may look good, but they need to be soft to seal, and not dinged in the rebate.... but you say the jets clear, and the pet-cock flows.... they are rather prone to sticky float needles as they wear, which may explain things, but they tend to be more intermittent....
Brings me round.... if vacuum aint being lost through gaps in gaskets... do you have decent vacuum.....
When you accelerate, you open the taps, lift the slide in carb, gives unobstructed passage for air into the inlet tract; usual cause of bog or hesitation is that that sudden opening sees an immediate drop in air-speed through the wide-open door, low air-speed means low vacuum over jets... fuel dont get sucked up jets... without engine speed riding, or riding as quick as throttle opened, air-speed stays low reletive to engine speed, and vaccum created over the jet stays small, and mix leans out until the engine catches up..... this is why on low emmission engines they have an accelerator pump to pump a bit of neat fuel down the maw, to ritchen things up when mix weakens off....
BUT... if you have knackered bore and or rings.... piston dropping wont create the suck it should to start with.. may be 'OK' at low throttle openings or steady state running, when the carb is effectively choked by the throttle slide, so there's a pressure difference from aor-box to port.... but open the tap, that difference gets very small, and if the rings aren't sealing so well, easier for it to suck air from the crank-case than through the carb..
If the valves aren't sealing... tappet clearances miles out, valves coked or pitted, seats coked or pitted... suck starts before exhaust closes.... the 'over-lap', now suck stroke will drag exhaust back into the pot through the not quote closed exhaust valve... whilst charge will be being pushed out the gaps when piston turns round and starts to put it back on compression.
Long explanations... B-U-T... this sort of anomolouse poor running, flat-spots, bogging, running out of puff early, are all symptoms of a tired old motor... and you can waste an AWFUL lot of time and effort and money chasing down each symptom trying to effect a cure, never really bottoming it, getting frustrated, re-doing things you think you have done, that should have fixed it or seemed to have fixed it....
UNTIL... you bite the bullet and get hands covered in oil battling with the black-bits, doing a recon; reboring, fitting new piston and rings, or chinky barel kit; lapping or grinding valves and seats or buying new chinky valves and head... paying attension to the cam and timing on rebuild, checking over the push-rods and rockers, making sure tappets aren't mushroomed, and doing detail tappet tickle etc....
THEN with that niggle eliminated... carb set up is often just a question of dialing in the book settings; the ignition sorted with a new plug.. and no more than clean and tweek on the HT lead when you put it back together....
And 'low'.... symptoms all gone away.....
BLUMMIN HECK! £29!!! First hit on e-blay! For a Chinky barel and piston kit, with rings! Comes with gaskets too by the looks!
At that kind of money!!!!!!! And given how 'simple' CG motors are and not having to faff with stringing cam-chains!!! JUST get one and fit one!!
Base line the problem, and eliminate possibilities before you drive yourself mad chasing anything and everything to try not look at oily bits!!!! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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P. Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 330 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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